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Wilson

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Nov 21, 2020
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I’m updating/ grading my boat and looking for some advice and options that I may just be missing with google/ Amazon. I’m hoping this may turn into a resource for other boaters for tech and info on gadgetry.
 
Issue one: I installed a modern humminbird fish finder last year that resets whenever I start the boat. I run dual batteries (new), but the engine is a 460 Ford with a matching (technology) starter. I suspect that the voltage drop during cranking is more than the fish finder is happy with.

I two ideas to remedy this:

-install an inline capacitor (car audio), my experience with these is that they compensate a demand surge from the “outbound” device? Do they also work if the supply voltage drops?

-install a small 12v battery (I already have 5 total) to only run these sensitive electronics. Run a smaller gauge wire that cannot support large loads, to charge and possibly add a diode to regulate flow.

What says IBB?
 
Issue one: I installed a modern humminbird fish finder last year that resets whenever I start the boat. I run dual batteries (new), but the engine is a 460 Ford with a matching (technology) starter. I suspect that the voltage drop during cranking is more than the fish finder is happy with.

I two ideas to remedy this:

-install an inline capacitor (car audio), my experience with these is that they compensate a demand surge from the “outbound” device? Do they also work if the supply voltage drops?

-install a small 12v battery (I already have 5 total) to only run these sensitive electronics. Run a smaller gauge wire that cannot support large loads, to charge and possibly add a diode to regulate flow.

What says IBB?
Can you separate the batteries when you start it?
use the battery the fish finder is not on to start would be the easy fix.
IDK your wiring
 
Can you separate the batteries when you start it?
use the battery the fish finder is not on to start would be the easy fix.
IDK your wiring
I do have the very common 1,2,all isolator switch. I’ll look into what goes to what. I do believe there are more advanced units that would automatically switch while cranking, to allow charging of all batteries while running? My three trolling batteries have their own automatic isolator/ charger, but as cool as that is, it causes issues with the trolling motor electronics.
 
Light bars, obviously.

Seriously though, I'd imagine some really nice lights would be invaluable at times.
Assorted lighting is on the list. I want to light the rod racks under the gunwale. I’m leaning away from standard light bars as early morning fishing trips often have some “smoke on the water” and overhead lights almost blind you. I’m torn between HID, or compact LED units, mounted below the bow line.
 
Here’s what I’m working with. It’s a 1991 Longton MFG hull, 23’. Longton was never a big name in the aluminum boat business and I’ve learned that this boat (and perhaps all) were one-off builds, with a mix and match of “non-standard” components. Unlike other boats, the hulls will never rot and components can be changed or upgraded as technology evolves.
 

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The shop that did the original canvas is still around, Bernies Sure-fit Uphilstery, in Medford, OR. They still do OEM canvas and upholstery for brands like Willies and Rogue. Last winter I had them make a new Bimini, cabin and transport cover for the boat.
 

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The coolest mod that I have made was adding the ulterra trolling motor. It features remote stow/ deploy, remote trim and a handful of gps/ compass features that are invaluable for river fishing.
 

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The coolest mod that I have made was adding the ulterra trolling motor. It features remote stow/ deploy, remote trim and a handful of gps/ compass features that are invaluable for river fishing.
I want one so bad, but they cost more than my boat with everything in it.

I’m thinking your FF is wired wrong, maybe wired to the key?

Try wiring it directly to the battery and see if that solves this.

Hard to believe even a 460 would make 3 batteries sag enough to cause it to brown out.

Helix series?

I hate the start up procedure on these, I just want it to come on, not to push buttons repeatedly.:homer:

So if so I can feel your pain.
 
It is the helix7, mounted at the helm. I want to add a large solex or helix that can be viewed from anywhere in the boat, but not before I get this sorted out. I am currently wired off of the B+ on the ign, but have a fresh lead run to the battery, to try.

The main engine has two available batteries, there are an additional three for the trolling motor.
 
It is the helix7, mounted at the helm. I want to add a large solex or helix that can be viewed from anywhere in the boat, but not before I get this sorted out. I am currently wired off of the B+ on the ign, but have a fresh lead run to the battery, to try.

The main engine has two available batteries, there are an additional three for the trolling motor.
I go straight to the TM batteries.

Two reasons: To eliminate your problem and to use the low battery function on the Helix.

Then again you may be using that for your start batts.
 
I like having the built in tackle box holders on my boat. One less thing to remember to pack and to move into the boat and back out at the ramp.
 
The new lead to the batteries did the trick for the fisher finder. The pump rebuild and nozzle upgrade worked flawlessly, we had a fun 3 days on the water.
 

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Why two batteries for the engine? Can you seperate one and use it as a house battery? I always run my electronics straight to batteries. Chartplotter/FF, radar, radios everything straight to the house batteries. New marine electronics need a stable power source.
 
Why two batteries for the engine? Can you seperate one and use it as a house battery? I always run my electronics straight to batteries. Chartplotter/FF, radar, radios everything straight to the house batteries. New marine electronics need a stable power source.
Something like that will be my long term plan, with a modern isolator/ charge controller.
 
I do have the very common 1,2,all isolator switch. I’ll look into what goes to what. I do believe there are more advanced units that would automatically switch while cranking, to allow charging of all batteries while running? My three trolling batteries have their own automatic isolator/ charger, but as cool as that is, it causes issues with the trolling motor electronics.
blue seas makes a on/off/combine switch. so when its just on on, you can have electronics separate from cranking
 
blue seas makes a on/off/combine switch. so when its just on on, you can have electronics separate from cranking
You dont want to combine them through that switch or anything else. The electronics need to be on two completely seperate circuits. That combination switch is used to select which battery to use or to use both if necessary. It doesnt do anything to solve the OPs issue with rebooting his FF when he starts his motor. The only way the electronics and starting circuits should be connected is to charge the batteries for both circuits off the engine if necessary and then by using an isolator.

Even on my big boat I didnt use the engine to charge the house/electronics batteries. They got plugged into shore power when docked or trailered or on overnight trips I would would charge off the genny if necessary.
 
towards the end of summer, the engine developed a running issue. Ran well on initial start, ran well at speed, but idled a bit rough, coming off step and would puff a little smoke after shitting it down.
At the end of a trip in early October, I pulled into camp to offload some guys and grab my gear. The camp was in a side channel,, with a shallow log dam at the top. When I left a few minutes later, I hammered it. I started to hear a ticking sound and the engine died. I tried to restart and got a pop and that was it.
Got it torn down yesterday. Pushrods on cyl 2&3 were bent, the heads and intake had aluminum in them, the head gasket between 2&3 was gone, piston number two was destroyed and the cylinder was cracked.
 

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Well, that sucks.

I hate to say it, but that looks like a good LS swap candidate.
Staying big block and going bigger. Dealer cost on a marine ls is around $15k, before I re-rig the boat.
 
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