Can you separate the batteries when you start it?Issue one: I installed a modern humminbird fish finder last year that resets whenever I start the boat. I run dual batteries (new), but the engine is a 460 Ford with a matching (technology) starter. I suspect that the voltage drop during cranking is more than the fish finder is happy with.
I two ideas to remedy this:
-install an inline capacitor (car audio), my experience with these is that they compensate a demand surge from the “outbound” device? Do they also work if the supply voltage drops?
-install a small 12v battery (I already have 5 total) to only run these sensitive electronics. Run a smaller gauge wire that cannot support large loads, to charge and possibly add a diode to regulate flow.
What says IBB?
I do have the very common 1,2,all isolator switch. I’ll look into what goes to what. I do believe there are more advanced units that would automatically switch while cranking, to allow charging of all batteries while running? My three trolling batteries have their own automatic isolator/ charger, but as cool as that is, it causes issues with the trolling motor electronics.Can you separate the batteries when you start it?
use the battery the fish finder is not on to start would be the easy fix.
IDK your wiring
Assorted lighting is on the list. I want to light the rod racks under the gunwale. I’m leaning away from standard light bars as early morning fishing trips often have some “smoke on the water” and overhead lights almost blind you. I’m torn between HID, or compact LED units, mounted below the bow line.Light bars, obviously.
Seriously though, I'd imagine some really nice lights would be invaluable at times.
I want one so bad, but they cost more than my boat with everything in it.The coolest mod that I have made was adding the ulterra trolling motor. It features remote stow/ deploy, remote trim and a handful of gps/ compass features that are invaluable for river fishing.
I don’t have an anchor on boardPower pole, anchors suck.
I go straight to the TM batteries.It is the helix7, mounted at the helm. I want to add a large solex or helix that can be viewed from anywhere in the boat, but not before I get this sorted out. I am currently wired off of the B+ on the ign, but have a fresh lead run to the battery, to try.
The main engine has two available batteries, there are an additional three for the trolling motor.
Oof, don’t apply that to your FF.The trolling batteries are in series at 36v
Something like that will be my long term plan, with a modern isolator/ charge controller.Why two batteries for the engine? Can you seperate one and use it as a house battery? I always run my electronics straight to batteries. Chartplotter/FF, radar, radios everything straight to the house batteries. New marine electronics need a stable power source.
blue seas makes a on/off/combine switch. so when its just on on, you can have electronics separate from crankingI do have the very common 1,2,all isolator switch. I’ll look into what goes to what. I do believe there are more advanced units that would automatically switch while cranking, to allow charging of all batteries while running? My three trolling batteries have their own automatic isolator/ charger, but as cool as that is, it causes issues with the trolling motor electronics.
You dont want to combine them through that switch or anything else. The electronics need to be on two completely seperate circuits. That combination switch is used to select which battery to use or to use both if necessary. It doesnt do anything to solve the OPs issue with rebooting his FF when he starts his motor. The only way the electronics and starting circuits should be connected is to charge the batteries for both circuits off the engine if necessary and then by using an isolator.blue seas makes a on/off/combine switch. so when its just on on, you can have electronics separate from cranking
Staying big block and going bigger. Dealer cost on a marine ls is around $15k, before I re-rig the boat.Well, that sucks.
I hate to say it, but that looks like a good LS swap candidate.