What's new
By:
Filters

Blue Jeep build

Inner fender on passenger side taking shape. There's nothing left for the front of the outer (blue) fender to tie in to, so I figured I'd just connect the inner and outer fenders together for some strength. Seems to work.

I did have to nip off a corner of the radiator fill tank that ended up just kissing the tire at full stuff. I need it not to touch and room for the inner fender to fit between them without touching either the tire or the fill tank.

Here's how the fill tank sat before hacking.

DSC01383.JPG


DSC01384.JPG



Didn't get a pic but this is what I had nip off it. Basically removed a little triangle piece and welded a flat piece in its place. I also had to cut off and move the bung inboard at that point. The bung is what will tie in to the vent on the surge tank to fill it when it cools off.

DSC01384.jpg




Flattening that corner allowed me to add this kick up to the inner fender. Result.....no rubbing.

DSC01430.JPG





So here's where I'm at right now. The rear part is tied to the front of the fender with 4 dzus fasteners. I may add a couple tabs and bolt everything to the tube fender. It also wraps around the outer fender at the bottom.

DSC01421.JPG


DSC01423.JPG



It's hard to see how much shape there is in this one piece in the pics. It was a fucking bitch to make and I still think it looks like shit. Bottom line is, I just flat out ran out of skill and just powered through while being 100% in over my head. It will work good enough to get this thing running so I'm cool with that.

Here's what it looks like from the back side.

DSC01425.JPG





Here's the rest of it heading forward. I welded the front piece to the piece that ran past the fill tank cause I can remove it as one piece.
I'm still working on it at the very front by the radiator. It will be what seals the front of the radiator from the engine compartment.


DSC01428.JPG


DSC01429.JPG



Here you can see how it will seal off the sides of the radiator. I do need to add a dam that I can add rubber/stiff foam to, to seal against the side of the radiator. Also need to allow a bunch of cooler hoses to run through the dam. Will have a top piece that connects the passenger/driver sides together and also seal against the shock x-member at the top. Even the air getting in around the headlights will get funneled through the radiator.


DSC01435.JPG
 
Last edited:
Think I'm at 15*. :lmao: If'n I wanna turn a tight circle then I just drive my F-450.

Inner fenders look like an amazin' creation. I'd take 'em back off and toss 'em in the recycle pile. The just hold in heat.
 
Kowboy said:
Think I'm at 15*. :lmao: If'n I wanna turn a tight circle then I just drive my F-450.

Inner fenders look like an amazin' creation. I'd take 'em back off and toss 'em in the recycle pile. The just hold in heat.
Click to expand...
I do plan to add some cut outs with some kind of screen in them. It's easier to shape when it's a solid piece. Agree about the heat.
 
Kowboy said:
Think I'm at 15*. :lmao: If'n I wanna turn a tight circle then I just drive my F-450.

Inner fenders look like an amazin' creation. I'd take 'em back off and toss 'em in the recycle pile. The just hold in heat.
Click to expand...
gt1guy said:
I do plan to add some cut outs with some kind of screen in them. It's easier to shape when it's a solid piece. Agree about the heat.
Click to expand...

A little progress on letting the heat out of the engine compartment.

DSC01480.JPG



Also got the front bumpstops mounted.

DSC01471.JPG
 
Finally got the dryer for the ac system installed. After starting a thread in new and actually reading the instructions from vintage air, sticking it kind of close to where the headers will be wasn't the best idea.

So plan B. Inside the tub on the firewall. It will be hiden behind the ac unit itself.

2021-05-09 14.29.17.jpg


So that's the ac system ready for plumbing, nothing more to mount.
 
snout said:
Sorry, meant the door shells. The plastic pieces-parts, I was just going to shop around later. Thanks for the tip on where to shop.
Click to expand...

I keep getting emails saying the half doors are still on backorder.
I read somewhere that they were discontinued. May end up having to look for a used set.
 
Kowboy said:
Inner fenders look good sir.

Damn shame 'bout the half doors. Hope you can round up a set.
Click to expand...

Thank you Sir,

Well, I did just round up a set of half doors last night. After I made the post last night, I went searching for a used set. Found a complete full set. Probably paid too much, but I was starting to realize I was never going to get a set any other way.

Doors will be shipping this week. Cancelling the Quadratec order now:smokin:

I'll have to see what I think of the plastic inner panels before making a decision on going alum. I really want to get this thing done before I start playing with a extra set of doors.
 
gt1guy said:
I keep getting emails saying the half doors are still on backorder.
I read somewhere that they were discontinued. May end up having to look for a used set.
Click to expand...

I can't find an available set anywhere at any price.
 
Knocked out one more item on my loooong list of shit to do. Modified the hydroboost output pushrod for the master cylinder. I switched master cylinders and the pushrod was too short for the new master. Welded on a piece of round stock to the pushrod I had, then began the fun fitting process of installing, grinding, installing, grinding, installing, grinding..........................now it fits perfect.

And that was the first step in making the inner fenders on the driver side. Ya, it makes no sense what so ever.
 
Back from visiting my 90yr old mom in San Diego for 5 days. Damn she hates the Cali Governor something fierce.

So time to pick up where I left off. I have to go to my CPA tomorrow and do 2 years worth of taxes. That might sting a bit.

Brown Santa says my new steering arms should be delivered tomorrow also.
 
Steering arms showed up. Came out perfect. Q&T 4140.

They now clear the bypass shock at full lock and will also give me almost 100% Akermann. Not going to drill the tie rod holes until after I get the ram mounted.

DSC01482.JPG


DSC01483.JPG


DSC01484.JPG


DSC01485.JPG
 
Man do I get the little wins or the little things that help progress---lookin' good.....
 
Passenger side inner fender taking shape. There were quite a few differences on the driver side that made things interesting.

One was the brakes. Running a hydroboost sticks the master cylinder out about 6" farther than normal. The master cylinder that came with the hydroboost had a master with the brake line ports on the outboard side. Well at full one wheel stuff and full lock, the tire came way too close to where the brake lines would be. There was less than a inch of clearance. I know just static lifting the wheel with a chain fall on the A-frame hoist isn't really telling the whole story. there's still room for the rubber bump stops on the shocks move a bit more.

Solution was to get a master cylinder that had the brake lines on the inboard side. That helped, but the new master takes a longer pushrod between the hydroboost and the master. So I had to lengthen the pushrod. With that done I moved on to the next issue.

Next up was the intake. I'm going to run a true cowl induction setup with a 4" tall oval filter. I don't want the air going into the engine to come for the engine compartment. I want it to come from the high pressure area at the base of the windshield. So basically the air flow goes like this. Out of the throttle body it 90* to the driver side, runs through the straight MAF section ( which has honeycomb to straighten the air over the MAF) , 90* again to go around the alt and another 90* to run over the engine wher the airbox will be that is sealed to the hood.

Where it goes around the alt is where the problems arose. I have a engine cage bar that runs from the shock mount x-member down to the frame. So I adjusted where the bar ties into the x-member, put a bend at the top of the bar and instead of a regular round 90* I installed a cobra head in it's place. Now I have room for the Coilover and bypass shocks to clear everything, the belt running from the alt to the steering pump to not rub on any thing and the inner fender to fit with out contact any where.

If you don't know what a cobra head it. It's just a really tight 90* that has a specific shape to not reduce flow.

90CB40_vert[1].jpg


Ya, inner fenders are simple.


With all that out of the way I could actually fuck with the inner fender. The only problem that remained was the upper shock mount support for the x-member still ran through where I had ran the inner fender on the passenger side. But that's a small issue.


Rear half , this needed to be one piece.

DSC01488.JPG



Here's the master. Notice ports on the inboard side. I was just afraid the tire would grab a brake line on the outboard side and end up regretting it in a bad way.:eek: Another thing is that engine cage bar that bends around the master is straight on the passenger side, so that needed to be accounted for.
I think that master is for a Ford of some kind. 1 5/16" bore. Not wild about the plastic reservoir, but it's what met my specs.


DSC01490.JPG



DSC01489.JPG


The The support tube with the bend in it for the cobra head.


DSC01502.JPG




Also have to pay attention to where the dzus tabs get installed. Any lower here and I would have never been able to get the orbital out. And yes, I was about to tack a few inches lower before I realized the issue.:homer:


DSC01491.JPG



Here's a pic nobody ever posts. Mid progress. Every time I get to this point, I just get the feeling that I'm about to destroy a lot of hard work.

DSC01486.JPG



DSC01487.JPG



After it was all hacked up, I installed it just to get an idea if I was just going to be holding heat inside the engine compartment. Even with the expanded metal in place, it's kind of deceiving.


DSC01509.JPG


DSC01513.JPG




Looking at it this way I think I'll be good heat wise. Headers are going to be 321 stainless, so that should help keep the heat inside, they are also going to be a tri-Y design with slip fits between sections so I should be able to have them ceramic coated inside and out. That should help even more. And if I need to wrap them I will, I just hope I don't, wrapping creates it's own set of problems.
 
Here's the rear inner fender section with the expanded installed. Had to leave room for the fittings for the orbital. The inner fender cut right over the top of it.


DSC01519.JPG



Clearance to the master and reservoir.


DSC01518.JPG



DSC01517.JPG







And in other news. My half doors arrived yesterday. According to the add, it was for just the doors and the mirrors. What arrived was the doors, mirrors/hardware, key for the doors and all the soft side windows. Everything is Morpar and it all looks brand new. No way these could have ever been offroad. Doors are set up for power locks, which I already have a dash switch to actuate the full door locks. I just need to change the connector on the half doors to fit the Deutsch connectors I'll be running.

I paid way too much for them, but now I'm happy. On a side note, I stopped be the Jeep dealer a couple days ago asking about the half doors for the JK's. They've been discontinued. I had ordered a set from Quadratec and also Morris 4x4. Morris took my money as soon as I ordered. For months both sended me updates saying they were still back ordered. Well, they are never going to get them. I cancelled both orders and got my money back from Morris.


DSC01521.JPG
DSC01522.JPG
DSC01523.JPG
DSC01524.JPG
DSC01526.JPG



and where I'll need to cut the B-pillar and make it removable for half door only driving.


DSC01525.JPG
 
Thank you Sir,

I keep plugging away, but I'm ready for it to be done. This is the fifth summer of not having it run.

It's like waiting on an old friend to come out of a coma.....................I hope it's not retarded.
 
Phenomenal work as always sir ... this rig's truly in a class by itself. :smokin:

Door locks on half doors. :lmao:

Power door locks on half doors. :lmao::lmao:

Ev'ry time I got outta my jeep, my knee would hit the fuckin' lock on my half doors. Never had no key for 'em so I got real good at unzippin' the window on the uppers to reach in and unlock 'em. Or just reachin' in if'n the uppers weren't even there. Ain't got no locks no more.

I'd love to hear jeeps logic of havin' lockin' half doors.

But along with power door locks ... a fella needs power windows to match. Maybe you can fab up some sorta motor and exotic cable/pulley system so you can push a button and unzip the plastic windows. :flipoff2:
 
5 summers--wow, I'm on 4 this year and I've only driven it maybe around a couple of blocks if that.....

So I hear you on "WANTING IT DONE" or at least drivable, cuz they're never done, are they??
 
Kowboy said:
Phenomenal work as always sir ... this rig's truly in a class by itself. :smokin:

Door locks on half doors. :lmao:

Power door locks on half doors. :lmao::lmao:
Click to expand...

Thank you Sir.

I was really surprised to see the wires coming out of the doors. Certainly wasn't expecting that. If I wasn't already planing on having the wiring in place for the doors, I'd be less inclined to mess with it. They do seem a bit silly though.

Compared to the full doors with glass windows, these things weigh nothing.



csutton7 said:
5 summers--wow, I'm on 4 this year and I've only driven it maybe around a couple of blocks if that.....

So I hear you on "WANTING IT DONE" or at least drivable, cuz they're never done, are they??
Click to expand...


I figured it'd be down for a few months when I started. Then the firewall was in the way, then the frame was in the way, then the hood was too wide, then, then, then, then 4 years went by.
 
Last edited:
So with the inner fenders finished and the sides of the radiator sealed off, it was time to seal off the top of the rad.

Problem is, what I ended up with as far as coolers go, wasn't going to get sealed off with a flat piece. I'd never be so lucky.

With the radiator leaning back at 33*, the top of the ac condenser and the trans cooler ended up sticking up above where a simple flat piece would have covered.


DSC01579.JPG


DSC01582.JPG



So I needed something that seals off the top of the radiator, goes up and over the coolers and has flat sides to make a seal with the pieces on the sides of the radiator. Which is kinda fucked up. Took me a lot of cardboard before I realized the the part that will seal off the top of the radiator will have to be hidden.

Anyway, here's the mess I came up with.


DSC01563.JPG



DSC01556.JPG





Back side of it. This sits flat against the shock x-member. Cut outs are where the radiator top mount bolts to the x-member.


DSC01574.JPG



Then the hidden part that seals off the top of the rad.


DSC01575.JPG



I got this shit to run across the radiator top sealing surface.


DSC01560.JPG



And this shit to seal off everything else.


DSC01557.JPG
 
Wow, that's pretty complex, just like your inner fenders--nice work as always....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh