Those swampers should bolt right on the tractor, what are you waiting for? 
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gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Those swampers should bolt right on the tractor, what are you waiting for?
Stop giving me bad ideas you're not helping.
I feel like at least a few KOH builds look like that right now
That may be true. I'm the only one not pulling the last of my hair out though.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
I know I'm not the only one who waits waaaaaaay too long before they swap out the clear lens in their welding hood.
I realized that I was literally moving my head around to find a less fucked up spot.
And to kick myself while I'm down, I have a box with at least 20 brand new clear lenses here at all times.
After I could see again.
I modified both front bump stop mounts. The steering ram came really close at full bump. I'm using EMF ball sockets on the ends of the ram. They're a bit bigger than a heim joint. And on the other side of the bump mount the bypass shock also came very close.
So even though there was no contact in the shop moving the axle with a floor jack, that doesn't always equal what happens bouncing down a trail. Cutting and welding a couple pieces of metal is a whole lot cheaper than a new ram or shock.
I realized that I was literally moving my head around to find a less fucked up spot.
And to kick myself while I'm down, I have a box with at least 20 brand new clear lenses here at all times.After I could see again.
I modified both front bump stop mounts. The steering ram came really close at full bump. I'm using EMF ball sockets on the ends of the ram. They're a bit bigger than a heim joint. And on the other side of the bump mount the bypass shock also came very close.
So even though there was no contact in the shop moving the axle with a floor jack, that doesn't always equal what happens bouncing down a trail. Cutting and welding a couple pieces of metal is a whole lot cheaper than a new ram or shock.
Yup, me too. I was thinking the same thing last night when I was out in my shop. Nice work. Keep plugging away at it.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Got the engine cage mounts trimmed where the headers came close. I had made them so the wrapped around both sides of the frame to be stronger, but the inboard side ended up in the way. Still plenty strong and still wraps around the outboard side. This tie-in and the one on the opposite side are getting alum bushings due to the headers will be wanting to kill polly.
Began working on the fish plates/doublers for the front UCA mounts. Got lucky and still had a 10' piece of 3/16"x8" flat bar so I was able to trim it to fit the curve of the frame. It ties into the plating where the new front frame section starts.
And yes, I know full well it looks like a blind child cut the slots to weld it to the frame. That part of the stock frame has a lot of factory holes, so I had to lay out the slots around them but get the slots close enough to take the holes out of the equation.
I never realized that part if the frame wasn't a straight shot.
So now I basically have doubler plate running on the inboard side of the frame from forward of the engine mounts all the way back to the fuel cell cage,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,except for about 8" between the rear LCA x-member and the rear frame section connects.
I think I'll just slap a doubler piece there just because I may actually be creating a weak spot by leaving that way.
Began working on the fish plates/doublers for the front UCA mounts. Got lucky and still had a 10' piece of 3/16"x8" flat bar so I was able to trim it to fit the curve of the frame. It ties into the plating where the new front frame section starts.
And yes, I know full well it looks like a blind child cut the slots to weld it to the frame. That part of the stock frame has a lot of factory holes, so I had to lay out the slots around them but get the slots close enough to take the holes out of the equation.
I never realized that part if the frame wasn't a straight shot.
So now I basically have doubler plate running on the inboard side of the frame from forward of the engine mounts all the way back to the fuel cell cage,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,except for about 8" between the rear LCA x-member and the rear frame section connects.
I think I'll just slap a doubler piece there just because I may actually be creating a weak spot by leaving that way.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
This is what I was dodging on the frame.
I have no idea what any of those holes are for.
Oh and I was wrong. It's less than 5" of unplated frame left
I have no idea what any of those holes are for.
Oh and I was wrong. It's less than 5" of unplated frame left
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Got front upper control arm mounts back on. The ones that had been tacked in place for the past few years were way off, angle wise, and the joints were just about maxed just sitting at ride height. I think they were RS 30* mounts.
I had bought a set of 0* mounts figuring that they would fix the issue. They turned out to be a bit more off than I was happy with in the opposite direction, but they could be modified to work easy enough.
Just needed to angle them out some.
Seems simple enough, but that totally fucks up how they are meant to be welded on. Also the top of the mounts sits above the top of the frame.
Only part that fit flush was the rear.
Cut out a piece for the bottom that would fill the gap.
That's where I realized I really needed to enclose the front of the mount against the frame. That ment closing off access to use nuts on the bolts. So I added weld on nuts to the bolt hole near the frame.
Tied the frame side into the frame.
Then capped everything off to try and keep it all from looking like a sack of butt holes.
Other than skid plates, the frame is now done. Shit, that's a big deal.
Beer to me.
I had bought a set of 0* mounts figuring that they would fix the issue. They turned out to be a bit more off than I was happy with in the opposite direction, but they could be modified to work easy enough.
Just needed to angle them out some.
Seems simple enough, but that totally fucks up how they are meant to be welded on. Also the top of the mounts sits above the top of the frame.
Only part that fit flush was the rear.
Cut out a piece for the bottom that would fill the gap.
That's where I realized I really needed to enclose the front of the mount against the frame. That ment closing off access to use nuts on the bolts. So I added weld on nuts to the bolt hole near the frame.
Tied the frame side into the frame.
Then capped everything off to try and keep it all from looking like a sack of butt holes.
Other than skid plates, the frame is now done. Shit, that's a big deal.
Beer to me.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
thank you Sir
Yes the JK frame is completely boxed from the factory from front to rear. What it isn't is a box made from a single piece, Most of it is made from two "C" channels welded together. Some of it seems like the pieces overlap each other. Mostly 3/16". There were a few spots that had another smaller "C" channel either on the top or the bottom on the inside of the box.
I have some pictures of what it looked like on the inside.................Let me dig a bit.
Here's an example of where I cut the frame for the new front section.
This is what that spot looked like on the inside. You can see the "extra" piece of "C" channel in the top.
This was the rear where I tied in the new frame section. It's set up the same as the front.
What I found was that the extra smaller pieces of "C" channel on the inside were mainly where the frame changed direction vertically. They don't go very far after where I cut the frame in both spots. Maybe 12"-18".
At least I couldn't feel them fishing around in all these holes. that's all 3/16"..............and full of holes.
I think the stock JKU frame is somewhat robust.........if your drivetrain and suspension mounts are in the same place. None of my mounts for anything are anywhere close to the factory locations.
Damn, I could have just said "Yes, it's boxed"
Damn, I could have just said "Yes, it's boxed"
more info than I signed up for. That’s good to know though.
I’m kinda surprised to see some of the air gap between the extra C
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
So I've got all the weld nuts installed installed in the bottom of the frame for the skid plates. There's a fuck ton of them. So I've decided I need to make the skids in overlapping sections so I don't have to remove a million bolts and deal with a heavy as fuck one piece skid.
I have to reinstall the engine, trans and front axle/links in the frame to fab the engine/trans skid. I pulled the engine so I could install the Pacific Fab oil pan on it. Turns out the PacFab pan is a little over an inch wider. So I need to do a sanity check by cycling the suspension. I'm sure it will fit just fine, buy I know what will happen if I don't do it.
I thought I had pictures on my phone but I guess I did them all on whatsapp sending them to my buddy. I take new ones today.
I have to reinstall the engine, trans and front axle/links in the frame to fab the engine/trans skid. I pulled the engine so I could install the Pacific Fab oil pan on it. Turns out the PacFab pan is a little over an inch wider. So I need to do a sanity check by cycling the suspension. I'm sure it will fit just fine, buy I know what will happen if I don't do it.
I thought I had pictures on my phone but I guess I did them all on whatsapp sending them to my buddy. I take new ones today.
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Nice. Get r done.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Every time I stop in here I feel a bit better about my, uh, OCD. Everything is well planned and stout as hell. Welds and craftmanship is outstanding. Packaging done excellent.
Hurry up and finish.
Hurry up and finish.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Thank you Sir.
Just picked up the 3/16" plate for the skids today. Took a few days longer to get cause I went off on a detour with my trailer. The wood deck was completely gone and needed replacing. So last Friday I used it to pickup a bunch of 2x2 angle iron.
Yesterday I finished this.
So when I went to get the skid material today, I picked up 2- 8'x10'x3/16" along with what I needed for the skids.
No more fucking rotting wood deck. I'll just have to lay in the grass and set myself on fire a few times to stitch weld the plate to the angle and around the perimeter on top.
Rockwood
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 27, 2020
- Member Number
- 1588
- Messages
- 337
So we don't have to see how you used 57' of bandage in some overly complicated weaving pattern to shore up your wounds...Thank you Sir.
Just picked up the 3/16" plate for the skids today. Took a few days longer to get cause I went off on a detour with my trailer. The wood deck was completely gone and needed replacing. So last Friday I used it to pickup a bunch of 2x2 angle iron.
Yesterday I finished this.
![IMG-20230522-WA0010[2].jpg](https://irate4x4.com/attachments/img-20230522-wa0010-2-jpg.694027/ "IMG-20230522-WA0010[2].jpg")
So when I went to get the skid material today, I picked up 2- 8'x10'x3/16" along with what I needed for the skids.
No more fucking rotting wood deck. I'll just have to lay in the grass and set myself on fire a few times to stitch weld the plate to the angle and around the perimeter on top.
Drill some holes and plug weld from the top?
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
The main reason I told myself to do the trailer now was pretty simple. When the Jeep is finally finished, everything is broke in and I'm ready for a real shake down offroad...........I don't want to have wait to rebuild the trailer deck so I can do it.
Yep, now it will be a rotting steel deck
But seriously Kevin, that looks awesome
That would suck. Letting nature remove a steel deck could take a veeeery long time
The top deck will be Rustoleum Professional with some silica sand sprinkled on top. That will always be easy to fix.
The bottom I'm not sure yet. I know I'm going to tip it on it's side to make getting into all the little nooks and crannies easier.
Rustoleum is a top contender (and I'd like to figure out how to spray it, cause that's what the Jeep will be painted with). I've also got a shit load of Lizzard Skin that's a few years old, might be a good time to use it up.
Everything is getting Gibbs oil on it while it's still bare metal. Once dry it can be painted over.
So we don't have to see how you used 57' of bandage in some overly complicated weaving pattern to shore up your wounds...
Drill some holes and plug weld from the top?
That's a good idea.
I don't have 57' of bandage at the house..........................I do have a lot of 2" header wrap though
Edit: I could preemptively wrap myself in the header wrap
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Few random thoughts:
I haven't forgotten your AL bushings. You said no rush, so I am letting the AL age like a fine wine.
Figure out how to make a rotisserie for the painting. That is what I did for my little trailer, and it worked out pretty well.
I sprayed Rustoleum pro oil based enamel on this, over rustoleum primer. I used the harbor freight purple gun kit (~$50.00) and it worked out pretty damn well. I mixed the primer with mineral spirits and used the 1.8 tip. Used a quart on this little 4 x 8. I let that dry overnight, then sprayed 3 coats of black rustoleum over the next two days. I thinned it with Majic reducer, and added a cap full of hardener. I used the same gun with a 1.4 tip. This was painted just a few days ago, so not sure how durable it will be, but it looks really nice for a cheap paint job with cheap materials and cheap tools and no painting skills whatsoever.
I haven't forgotten your AL bushings. You said no rush, so I am letting the AL age like a fine wine.
Figure out how to make a rotisserie for the painting. That is what I did for my little trailer, and it worked out pretty well.
I sprayed Rustoleum pro oil based enamel on this, over rustoleum primer. I used the harbor freight purple gun kit (~$50.00) and it worked out pretty damn well. I mixed the primer with mineral spirits and used the 1.8 tip. Used a quart on this little 4 x 8. I let that dry overnight, then sprayed 3 coats of black rustoleum over the next two days. I thinned it with Majic reducer, and added a cap full of hardener. I used the same gun with a 1.4 tip. This was painted just a few days ago, so not sure how durable it will be, but it looks really nice for a cheap paint job with cheap materials and cheap tools and no painting skills whatsoever.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Few random thoughts:
I haven't forgotten your AL bushings. You said no rush, so I am letting the AL age like a fine wine.
Figure out how to make a rotisserie for the painting. That is what I did for my little trailer, and it worked out pretty well.
I sprayed Rustoleum pro oil based enamel on this, over rustoleum primer. I used the harbor freight purple gun kit (~$50.00) and it worked out pretty damn well. I mixed the primer with mineral spirits and used the 1.8 tip. Used a quart on this little 4 x 8. I let that dry overnight, then sprayed 3 coats of black rustoleum over the next two days. I thinned it with Majic reducer, and added a cap full of hardener. I used the same gun with a 1.4 tip. This was painted just a few days ago, so not sure how durable it will be, but it looks really nice for a cheap paint job with cheap materials and cheap tools and no painting skills whatsoever.
That's brilliant. I dig the rotisserie Idea. Right now my plan is to rig a snatch block in the oak tree and winch the trailer on it's side.
Thanks for the tips on spraying the rustoleum pro paint. I rolled it on my work benches and it's held up to abuse for years.
Rockwood
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 27, 2020
- Member Number
- 1588
- Messages
- 337
I rolled all the crossbars and other spots underneath on mine, then sprayed the sides. I also added some of the (Tractor Supply) hardener to both (non-reduced for roll/brush because fuck it) and it's held up well.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
You can use acrylic hardener with Rustolium and other types of acrylic paint, and cuts dry time from days to hours.
Otherwise I fucking hate Rustolium, spray or can. Takes days to dry in 110* desert heat. Krylon done in 5-10 min.
Otherwise I fucking hate Rustolium, spray or can. Takes days to dry in 110* desert heat. Krylon done in 5-10 min.
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gt1guy
Apparently a racist
On my work benches, I just rolled it straight out of the can and it did take a long time to fully dry. But damn that stuff has held up great.
I'll definitely pick up some of the hardener.
Can Rustoleum be thinned with acetone? I always have gallons of it here. Or is mineral spirits what I should use?
I manhandled the 4x8 sheet into the shop last night for the skids...........................only to realize I need to fill my oxy/acc bottles.
I'll definitely pick up some of the hardener.
Can Rustoleum be thinned with acetone? I always have gallons of it here. Or is mineral spirits what I should use?
I manhandled the 4x8 sheet into the shop last night for the skids...........................only to realize I need to fill my oxy/acc bottles.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
What about grey paint?
I've been thinking about using something other than black on the trailer. Just to keep it from getting smoking hot in the sun. I will keep the gloss paint in mined.
Any other color (besides possibly red) will stay cooler in the sun. White, light grey, any lighter color will hold up to the sun better & likely hold up to damage better. Darker colors absorb more UV & are also softer. Gloss w/ hardener will be the most durable.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
What do you mean by darker colors are softer? I've never heard that before.
It's been years & I might be a bit off but, basically, the darker pigments are softer. Not like 10:1 OMG run away, but there's a difference.
Fleet white trucks hold up the best because the paint is the most durable physically in addition to having the lowest emissivity (absorbs the least UV, so it takes on less UV damage while getting the least hot).
On the emissivity side, black is highest but red is up there (surprises some folks). As long as you're using a catalyzed paint (hardener in it), whatever you choose will hold up well so don't let me give you a complex over it. However, implement black will get the hottest & fade the fastest so I'd pick a nice medium or light gray personally.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Ok, I can understand that. Thank you.