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Blue Jeep build

1Sinner said:
And probably pretty easy to get to the 3k mark with all you have in it too. Looks good!
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Ya, it adds up fast. Using the 321 stainless added a bunch.




So here's the final tacked together mess.


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Interesting adapter.

I bought the Novak version for my 6L80e, and their 32 spline input for my d300, followed their directions, and trimmed the shaft just fine. All bolted up nicely.
 
Opiebennett said:
Interesting adapter.

I bought the Novak version for my 6L80e, and their 32 spline input for my d300, followed their directions, and trimmed the shaft just fine. All bolted up nicely.
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Was your 6l80 out of a car or truck?

My 6l90 came out of a '15 2500 4x4 and there was zero extra spline I could cut. The factory adapter is the same length as my new adapter.
The Hero was ordered with the 29 spline (6l90) input.

I don't understand it, buy it's all done now.
 
rattle_snake said:
What specifically are the mufflers in your system?
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The front small ones are Vibrant Performance #1794 resonators. 3" in/out, 4"OD, 8" body length.

The rear are Kooks #R300-14 mufflers. 3" in/out, 4.5"OD, 14" body length.

I've never ran any of these before, had to choose by size.
 
gt1guy said:
The front small ones are Vibrant Performance #1794 resonators. 3" in/out, 4"OD, 8" body length.

The rear are Kooks #R300-14 mufflers. 3" in/out, 4.5"OD, 14" body length.

I've never ran any of these before, had to choose by size.
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I've never seen mufflers violate the effectiveness-vs.-case volume correlation.
Hopefully that will make the idle civil & minimize drone when cruising.
But when you mash the gas, it's gonna' be ROWDY loud :eek: :laughing:
 
ExWrench said:
I've never seen mufflers violate the effectiveness-vs.-case volume correlation.
Hopefully that will make the idle civil & minimize drone when cruising.
But when you mash the gas, it's gonna' be ROWDY loud :eek: :laughing:
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That's exactly my hope. I have no illusions it's going to be quiet all the time, I just don't want it stupid loud all the time. WOT, I know it will be loud, I'm ok with that.
 
gt1guy said:
Was your 6l80 out of a car or truck?

My 6l90 came out of a '15 2500 4x4 and there was zero extra spline I could cut. The factory adapter is the same length as my new adapter.
The Hero was ordered with the 29 spline (6l90) input.

I don't understand it, buy it's all done now.
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My 6l80e was a 4x4 from a 2014 1500 with the LV3 4.3L V6.

Looks like Novak sells their adapter for the 6L80E, and a 1.5" spacer (if you scroll down a bit) to go on the long shaft 6L90E with the adapter.

Either way, you're done with that and onto the next!
 
Knocked out the last few little things on my list that needed to be done before I can pull the body off for the last time. Little shit, as in welding the shaft between the u-joints running from the column to the orbital. Made the rear bumpstop cans/mounts and the templates for the pieces to weld them to the frame (when the body is off). Couple other items I've already forgotten about.

I'm going to call it a milestone. It's been a long time coming. I might even buy myself a beer.
 
JunKU said:
A fine jku! Thanks for sharing everything with us! Sub'd!:smokin:
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Thank you Sir. I've been watching your likes going through the entire thread. Having someone go all the way through it lets me know it wasn't a waste of time. I thank you for that.

And now you know what not to do with yours.:flipoff2:

It's been a long process, but I can now see the end getting close. The worst part has simply been not being able to drive it. I love driving it and I've missed that the most.
 
One day, hopefully my Jeep will grow up to be something 😎 like yours… until then I will drive it every day.
 
Mike_somd said:
One day, hopefully my Jeep will grow up to be something 😎 like yours… until then I will drive it every day.
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I bought parts for a couple years while I was still driving it. When I finally started the build I had all the big parts and thought I was good to go. I've come to realize the big stuff is the easy part. It's the millions of little things you don't think about that add up to way more than the big stuff costs.

A member here said it perfect. The last 10% of the build will take 90% of the budget and time.

That is so true.
 
Indeed it is true and when you get to the last 1% left it reveals that there's really 5% left and this repeats for many years!!
 
gt1guy said:
A member here said it perfect. The last 10% of the build will take 90% of the budget and time.
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Take your budget
Double it
Add 30%

Now you're in the ball park
 
gt1guy said:
Got word that my bag finally arrived in Dubai and the agent took it to the boat. In the end, it took 10 days for it to show up. Captain sent me a email saying they will hold it onboard for the sail to Saudi.

In the mean time I've continued practicing my header welding. One thing's for sure, my shit will never look like it came for someone who does it for a living.......no perfect stack of dimes.................I'm ok with that. All I want is a sound weld that stays together.

I've just been practicing without purging cause I didn't feel like wasting the argon. But I've learned you can only go so far without the purge. It really does affect the whole weld, not just the inside where the sugaring happens. Boy what a difference a little inert gas makes.

I found it very interesting, so I thought I'd share.


Here's two welds. No change on the machine. Amps set so I can just stomp on the peddle, so no change in heat input.

Top weld is no purge. You can see that it's concave. For me anyway, it was hard not to end up with a concave weld that actually got full penetration to the inside.

Bottom weld is with the purge set up. Notice that it's convex the way it should be. And it has full penetration.

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This is what no purge looks like on the inside. Sugar city. Pretty sure it's the reason the welds all come out concave. Not sure if gravity takes over or the sugaring of the molten metal pulls the bead down.


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Flashlight in the end of the tube. Sugar all the way around.


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After I did the purge weld, I cut the tube close to the weld to get a good look at it.


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Flashlight in the end of the tube. Can see a nice little bead all the way around


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It's not perfect, but I'm a bit more confident my headers wont fall apart now. Maybe the ceramic coating will hold them together.
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When I did sanitary pipe I'd run 40 - 45 amps no pulse no fill. Puddle then move. That was standard. Your purge pressure is important to hold your weld level. Keep practicing and you can get it perfectly even outside and inside. Try not to blacken the parent material.
 
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Hot Damn... Some serious talent and inspiration. I love your front fenders. My military buddy has a tubing bender but he PCSs in two years or less. So if I want to use it, which I so desperately want to, I have to get busy.

What size tires are you running?
What size tubing did you use for your front fenders?
If I'm not done with my build before my army buddy leaves, can I borrow your bender? :grinpimp:
 
67StingrayJ said:
Hot Damn... Some serious talent and inspiration. I love your front fenders. My military buddy has a tubing bender but he PCSs in two years or less. So if I want to use it, which I so desperately want to, I have to get busy.

What size tires are you running?
What size tubing did you use for your front fenders?
If I'm not done with my build before my army buddy leaves, can I borrow your bender? :grinpimp:
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Thank you Sir.

Tires are 45" TSL SXII's. That's the reason for so much cutting and hacking. It's also the reason that the front fenders look the way they do. Height wise, the Jeep is only sitting on 3.5 of lift. Might be a little less.

Fenders are made from 1" or 1.250", I'll have to double check when I get out to the shop. It's been a while.:flipoff2:

Edit: Front fenders are 1.5". Rear are smaller I believe.
 
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Starting to actually look like a complete header. Had to break the tacks at the flange so I could roll the individual tubes on the bench to weld them. Was nervous they were going to change shape and not fit back together........but they did.

Going to test fit them back on the engine with the primaries only tacked, just to make sure I don't have a fuck up hiding. Pretty sure they can only go back together one way but, pretty sure isn't 100%.


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If all is good I'll weld up at the flanges and start on the other side.



Everything from the v-bands back is already welded out.


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gt1guy said:
Thanks guys.

The welds aren't beautiful, but they are sound. That's all I really care about, they're going to get coated when finished anyway.

I'm sure the last weld will look much better than the first.:flipoff2:
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Not all of mine are show quality. I know they're sound, and will hold when I beat the crap out of it. That's what matters. If it was for a customer it would be different. Race car welds only.
 
1Sinner said:
Not all of mine are show quality. I know they're sound, and will hold when I beat the crap out of it. That's what matters. If it was for a customer it would be different. Race car welds only.
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Well, mine certainly aren't show quality, and it's questionable whether they'll hold up :homer::jester:


Progress looks awesome though
 
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