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Blow by in 22RE, What next?

docj88

'Splain this to me again
Joined
Oct 13, 2020
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2934
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Texas!!
1988 22Re, 5 speed, Sassed, spooled rear, elocker front, 35's, factory 4.10's, its a FarmCrawler. it sees some light wheeling a couple times a year and a whole lot of cattle pastures. Can't begin to count how much firewood or feed sacks this thing has hauled.

But, I finally did it.. the Yota developed a strange miss that wasn't quite a miss. It was sort of a stumble right off idle while letting off the clutch. At the same time it started blowing oil out of every orifice that could leak. I thought it was a timing chain issue. Pulled the valve cover to check it over and found the timing chain guides were gone. Like, not there anymore.. later found them in the bottom of the oil pan, and yes, it was running but idk how. Pulled the timing cover to address that, swapped the front seal, got it all back together and still had an oil leak though not nearly as bad. Still had the miss too. I was afraid it was a bent valve (still haven't ruled that out). I decided to check the PCV valve to be sure it wasn't a vacuum leak. somewhere. Pulled the hose and blocked the port in the intake, fired it up and spewing from the PCV valve was a mix of vaporized oil. Somehow its putting compression into the valve cover and logically that must be blow by in the bottom end.

I love this truck. The frame is straight, no rust. The body is actually in good shape for a 30 year old farm truck. Be all that said, I'm a Chevy guy. I really want to do a 5.3/SM465/NP205 swap. Its not hard to do and I'm much more familiar with that combo than anything Toyota. I do not want to go back with the 22RE. The lack of power drives me insane. And yes, I know gears would help but at highway speeds I run 4th gear which would be like running 5th with 4.88's. There is no way around the lack of power. Then there is the 3RZ..

Pro's and cons.
LS it. Pros, It's an LS, the SM465 would work with the 4.10's rather well on highway and off road, so no need to regear. Cons.. Complete drivetrain revamp, trans could be hard to source, have to figure out wiring harness and electrical.

3RZ. Pro's, its Toyota, the W59 bellhousing will work with the W56, basically a bolt in swap, could later run dual Yota cases. Cons.. Would probably still need to swap gears, have to find the right engine and bellhousing at junkyard, not too many Yotas in junkyards around. Still have to wire ECU.

Rebuild the 22RE with bigger cam and header
Pros, all the wiring and parts are already there so no conversions, its a fairly simple engine, I can do the work and have a sense of accomplishment, keeps it all original. Cons, Lipstick on a pig, Still need to regear it.

What to do, what to do?
 
I'll vote keep it original and stick with the 22re and get some 5.29's. 35's with 4.10s is going to suck to drive every time. A fresh/healthy 22re with 5.29 should pull a lot harder than what you have now. 3rz would be cool but alot of work expense for a farm truck and can be hard to find. Not a fan of chevy swapped Toyota's.
 
If you like gm stuff, do a 4.3 to the W56. It's enough power to get around, but not too much to blow everything up. Well, it is, but if you drive normal it should be fine.

Theyre not much heavier, and fit well also.
 
How about at least pull the head and see what you find and decide?
I'm planning to run a compression test to see where it is now, and then drop some oil into the cylinders and test it again to see if that bumps the compression. If so, it's definitely in the bottom end and I'll know which cylinder to really check. If compression doesn't change, its probably in the head.
 
If you like gm stuff, do a 4.3 to the W56. It's enough power to get around, but not too much to blow everything up. Well, it is, but if you drive normal it should be fine.

Theyre not much heavier, and fit well also.
That's what I was thinking.

I knew a guy with a 4.3l swapped 2nd gen runner on 35s and yota axles. I don't remember him breaking too much shit and he wheeled it pretty hard
 
That's what I was thinking.

I knew a guy with a 4.3l swapped 2nd gen runner on 35s and yota axles. I don't remember him breaking too much shit and he wheeled it pretty hard

There are so many factors to what makes shit break.

Look at the guys with Jeeps, FJ40s, and broncos who ran V8s and tooth pick axles for 40 fucking years. 4.3 is a good little torquey motors.

My 96 S10 with a 4.3/4l60e beat my buddies 03 3.4/5spd taco. I thought the Rev happy 3.4 would catch me at like 50 mph, but it never did. :laughing: that truck wasn't near as solid as a Toyota, but the engine and trans were awesome.
 
4.3 is a good little motor and if one fell into my lap I would work with it. If there's an option for a v8 for the same money and hassle, I'm going with a v8. I was talking to my buddy last night coming up with ridiculous swap ideas (like a 454 or a 12 valve) and I remembered the ALH swap possibility. I guess I'm going to have to go scour the junkyards around and see what I can find but I really like the ALH idea. I wasn't able to run the compression test yesterday, Got Christmas stuff going this afternoon, not sure when I will get to fiddle with it.
 
It's not the same money or hassle though. V8 doesn't fit that good, you need to move the rad or cut the firewall. Then, you probably aren't going to want to run the W56 behind it, or the toy cases. Also fuck a sm465 behind a 5.3. :homer: then you'll be breaking Toyota axles even just fuck around on the street.

4.3 could be put to your current trans and live a happy life.

The vw diesels are cool, but I don't get putting them in anything bigger than a Sami. They're small and will have to be pumped up to move a big 4runner well.

Unless youre just trying to idle around the desert for a week at a time and fuel mileage is priority.
 
relevant side note, what 4.3s do people usually go with? TBI or Vortec? and what is a reasonable price to pay for one?
If I remember correctly 2002, at least with S-series, is the overlap year model going away with EGR. 2003-newer 4.3 don’t have EGR crap, use MPFI instead of poppets and better valvetrain components. Even though, any 96+ vortec 4.3 are good. I won’t pay more than $250 for the long block. I think you’ll be money ahead of you can buy a complete running donor 4wd s-10, to have all of little bits you may need for the swap.
 
I read different things, for as simple as the motors are, they seemed to switch up the fuel system a lot. Depending on who you talk to, I think the late 90s were the best? Idk, it's been a long time since I read about them.

I want to say one thing was too look for one from a 1500 or a van because they had a little more power than the s10s.

As far a price, a running donor rig should be easy to come by for less than $1000, possibly closer to $500.
 
I read different things, for as simple as the motors are, they seemed to switch up the fuel system a lot. Depending on who you talk to, I think the late 90s were the best? Idk, it's been a long time since I read about them.

I want to say one thing was too look for one from a 1500 or a van because they had a little more power than the s10s.

As far a price, a running donor rig should be easy to come by for less than $1000, possibly closer to $500.
even in the current market I see enough 4.3l TBI blazers pop up for $500-750 that I've contemplated buying one

no need for any additional shit though I just have poor impulse control lol
 
I read different things, for as simple as the motors are, they seemed to switch up the fuel system a lot. Depending on who you talk to, I think the late 90s were the best? Idk, it's been a long time since I read about them.
96+ 4.3s had “one” fuel system, actually. Poppet (96-~02) and MPFI (03+) are 100% interchangeable both ways.

On a side note;
4.3 Mercuriser intake manifold assembly is a direct bolt in on 96+ 4.3s (unsure on older TBI or CPI 4.3s, although I’ll avoid them at all cost, they’re so obsolete lol) except some wiring, plumbing and other small stuff. It make for an excellent upgrade for to add more fuel with forced induction.
I want to say one thing was too look for one from a 1500 or a van because they had a little more power than the s10s.
Really 🤏🏻 more power.
 
96+ 4.3s had “one” fuel system, actually. Poppet (96-~02) and MPFI (03+) are 100% interchangeable both ways.

On a side note;
4.3 Mercuriser intake manifold assembly is a direct bolt in on 96+ 4.3s (unsure on older TBI or CPI 4.3s, although I’ll avoid them at all cost, they’re so obsolete lol) except some wiring, plumbing and other small stuff. It make for an excellent upgrade for to add more fuel with forced induction.

Really 🤏🏻 more power.

OK, well that's for clearing it up. I had read a ton on them because I was planning on putting a 4.3/4l60e in a 2nd gen 4runner about 8 years ago. That info is about gone from my brain though :laughing:
 
Pics as requested
 

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I tossed my 22re that was relatively fresh for a 3rz bolted to my w56/ultimate duals. It's a upgrade for sure and people have wired them into your era truck and documented it. The great part was it bolted in and used a bunch of the same stuff.
 
I'll just add this if you decide to stick with the 22re. Back in the day in the beginnings of my build I threw on a set of 33s with stock 4'10s and it turned it to slow turd. Knowing I would eventually go to bigger meats I regeared it to 5.29s. It was like I bolted a supercharger on. Could run 75 on the highway and it actually crawled fairly good. 5.29s will make a world of difference. Food for thought.. If course what better time to throw in some lockers if you don't already have some.
 
3rz is not a bolt in....
Mm are different:eek:

Just saying, that's pretty damned bolt in.
 
Schweeeet
Were not available when I did mine:confused:
I'd Never do an re swap again nowadays...
 
My last rig had a 3rz, w56 and duals with a 23 spline input on the second case. When i mud dragged it, I side stepped the clutch in 2nd gear, 4low on the rev limiter and it hooked hard. Nothing broke and I took 2nd place. I lost to a 3.4. That being said, I wouldnt put a w56 behind a 4.3. Nor would I ever run a 4.3. I always saw them spinning bearings for no reason. The chilkat mounts are hit and miss. Read up on them. Some people have problems with them cocking the engine crooked. My friend had that exact problem with an RZ in his 87 pickup. Chilkat hasnt and wont rectify the problem. I'm guessing the 22re broke some rings, they like to do that.
 
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My last rig had a 3rz, w56 and duals with a 23 spline input on the second case. When i mud dragged it, I side stepped the clutch in 2nd gear, 4low on the rev limiter and it hooked hard. Nothing broke and I took 2nd place. I lost to a 3.4. That being said, I wouldnt put a w56 behind a 4.3. Nor would I ever run a 4.3. I always saw them spinning bearings for no reason. The chilkat mounts are hit and miss. Read up on them. Some people have problems with them cocking the engine crooked. My friend had that exact problem with an RZ in his 87 pickup. Chilkat hasnt and wont rectify the problem. I'm guessing the 22re broke some rings, they like to do that.
If I do go to a GM engine it will be mated to a SM465 for the "Granny gear" low. It would also be a V8 because I'm kinda retarted.. It would probably be an LS because its easier to find a 4.8 or 5.3 than a Vortec 350.

Be all that said, it probably going to end up with a 3rz or TDI. Realistically, those will be easier to find I think. And the 3rz will probably be the easier of the two to actually swap but I would much rather have the diesel.
 
Its possible that you broke a ring land, a portion of the upper piston


Frankly, you need a ranch truck...
And a quick rebuild is all you need.

My 93, SandFlea was a great ranch truck, and now my 86 Runner takes over those duties.

My crawler, Rennwagen? Useless as a true ranch truck.
Can clear a 30 foot jump, and crawl Outer limits with zero issues, but a ranch truck or is not...
 
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