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Blew the HG on my 455

im not looking for 40mpg, but 0-60 in 7 seconds should yield more than 7mpg :flipoff2:
I know who I am talking and the subsequent answer but are you literally retarded?:flipoff2::laughing:
A kia Soul GT will get 33 mpg and do 0-60 in 6.5s :stirthepot:

I haven't timed it, but my jeep should be able to get that with the 5.3 ls. You gonna need at least 650 hp or more. Like a 16v-71 or Wright R-1820 Cyclone for that whale.
Yes but then, and hear me out here, you still own a kia soul:flipoff2:.
Careful, someone's gunna come along and try making fun of us old people and all our horsetorqes again
You rang?:lmao:
 
whats overpaid in your book?
I paid 22k. To be honest, I bought the car sight unseen with about 100 pictures. The guy was a great photographer.. the paint job is a 10 footer. The interior has some major non disclosed faults. had it shipped from El paso Texas. In shipping, part of the roof rack ripped off which all parties refused to do anything about. I have to look at the bright side. It's not a project. It's turn key, drives steers and stops straight. It's a true d0ve engine. I had tried to get multiple companies or individuals to go look at it for me. Paid. Whatever the rate. But nobody would commit. Oh well.

I do see them sell in auction for much more than this fairly often. I guess I'm just sour that it's not what I was expecting.

I did have a complete 70 project and parts 69 car that I sold for 6k. This one is way nicer than either of those. But not as optioned.
 
I paid 22k. To be honest, I bought the car sight unseen with about 100 pictures. The guy was a great photographer.. the paint job is a 10 footer. The interior has some major non disclosed faults. had it shipped from El paso Texas. In shipping, part of the roof rack ripped off which all parties refused to do anything about. I have to look at the bright side. It's not a project. It's turn key, drives steers and stops straight. It's a true d0ve engine. I had tried to get multiple companies or individuals to go look at it for me. Paid. Whatever the rate. But nobody would commit. Oh well.

I do see them sell in auction for much more than this fairly often. I guess I'm just sour that it's not what I was expecting.

I did have a complete 70 project and parts 69 car that I sold for 6k. This one is way nicer than either of those. But not as optioned.
How much base ignition timing are you able to get away with at what octane?
 
Unsure. I haven't had time to play with it. I've only filled it up once and used regular 87. Over the winter I hope to get it set up a little better. It has oil leaks and trans leaks and I really just need to go over it one end to the other to make sure it's ready for all of the goofing around I have planned.
 
im not looking for 40mpg, but 0-60 in 7 seconds should yield more than 7mpg :flipoff2:
Drop in an aluminum replacement, fresh clutch fan, Make sure the shroud is all there don't forget a name brand water pump. Before its all apart and the heads are off id soak it for a few days with a ton of CLR and flush the cooling system out at the heater core.

Buy some name brand aluminum heads. It will be less time consuming than Adding hardened valve seats, new springs etc. then Machining costs and time.
Get an aluminum manifold that will fit under the hood and buy a complete engine gasket set. Then replace em all when you do the heads. Toss in a flat tappet cam and lifters. Once you spend the time to figure out what pushrod to run this is a no brainer IMHO.

Once it is all back together DO NOT ADD TAPWATER! BUY ENOUGH 100% ANTIFREEZE AND ENOUGH DISTILLED WATER AS WELL AS EXTRA FOR LATER! Your Welcome.

Add terminator X or Sniper with trans controls EFI to it so you don't fuss with trying to get it run with todays ethanol added gas.

Later, add a 4L80 with a bolt on BOP bell housing. Control it later on with your terminator X.

Once the trans is in then add 3.55 gears
 
Cool! Specs?
IMG_0212 (2).JPG


87 Grand National 3.8L V6 stock bottom end and heads with small cam. Upgraded turbo, big mouth intercooler and loosened stock converter in the 2004r. 12 bolt posi 3.42s. Global West negative roll kit in front with 12" rotors. Big drums in back. Got it at an auction in 2003 for $850. It had been sitting since 1983.
 
The Edelbrock stuff is really good stuff with decent machining. For a street driver id run it again in a heartbeat. When i was young i had a fox body hatch with full interior 10.80s on a junkyard 460 shortblock and the performer RPM package with a 200 shot.
 
This probably isn’t the first thing you have blown. Why is this different than any other evening when your working the bus stations or rest stops?:flipoff2:
 
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Drop in an aluminum replacement, fresh clutch fan, Make sure the shroud is all there don't forget a name brand water pump. Before its all apart and the heads are off id soak it for a few days with a ton of CLR and flush the cooling system out at the heater core.

Buy some name brand aluminum heads. It will be less time consuming than Adding hardened valve seats, new springs etc. then Machining costs and time.
Get an aluminum manifold that will fit under the hood and buy a complete engine gasket set. Then replace em all when you do the heads. Toss in a flat tappet cam and lifters. Once you spend the time to figure out what pushrod to run this is a no brainer IMHO.

Once it is all back together DO NOT ADD TAPWATER! BUY ENOUGH 100% ANTIFREEZE AND ENOUGH DISTILLED WATER AS WELL AS EXTRA FOR LATER! Your Welcome.

Add terminator X or Sniper with trans controls EFI to it so you don't fuss with trying to get it run with todays ethanol added gas.

Later, add a 4L80 with a bolt on BOP bell housing. Control it later on with your terminator X.

Once the trans is in then add 3.55 gears
That’s a solid plan
 
Ok well its not losing coolant and theres no coolant in oil. Drove it home in the heat and uphill and it never popped the cap. Cross your fingers for me boys, maybe its just the the temp gauge, because I would love not having to do the HG.
We've already spit all of these ideas out, now get busy trying all of them:flipoff2::lmao:.
 
Wouldn't be too much work to pop the valve covers and torque up all the head bolts.
New better radiator. I wish I would have gone with an aluminum one on my buick 455 instead of the brass. Nobody will recore them anymore.
Flush the cooling system well.
72 was the beginning of the end for gm performance. 73 had lower compression either by dished pistons or bigger combustion chambers.if your iron heads are warped might as well go aluminum.
Might be an idea to keep an eye on marketplace for a Pontiac engine or performance parts for cheapish.

Some of you don't comprehend that Pontiac, buick and oldsmobile all had 455s and they were all very different. Buick had a short stroke with a large bore making them Rev more than any of the others. Oldsmobile had a much longer stroke making them more of a torque engine. Not super familiar with the Pontiacs.
If you want to actually go fast, you should probably start with a different car. If you want a monster hp engin in the grand prix for shits and grins then ditch the Pontiac engine and go BBC or ls.
If it were mine I would go with a mild cam, exhaust, hei swap, edelbrock-carter, (holleys suck, would rather have a qjet than a holley) keep the aluminum intake, big radiator, limited slip and just run it as a comfortable muscle cruiser.
body on frame = truck

:flipoff2:
How dare you.
Would you rather drive a nova or a chevell?
I know what I'd rather drive.
 
bbc is heavier, thats my issue.

How dare you.
Would you rather drive a nova or a chevell?
I know what I'd rather drive.

an el camino :flipoff2:

Doesn’t Napa sell a test kit to check for exhaust gases in coolant? Might be worth checking if you’re worried

I have the fluid, done it before, but honestly i dont think it works for a lot of leaks, only ones that blow exhaust into the coolant
 
thats what i say. the temp gauge can go fuck itself right bro? :grinpimp:
I would change the thermostat, temperature sensor then maybe the gauge. If you can figure out what you are doing you can test the gauge with a rheostat.
 
$20 temp gun will diagnose the problem in 15sec or less
He can't tell by the way the vehicle is acting while he driving it if it is overheating. He needs the gauge to be accurate. I've seen thermostats get stuck closed intermittently before.
 
I have an infrared gauge I brought home from work yesterday, Ill try that too
 
bbc is heavier, thats my issue.



an el camino :flipoff2:



I have the fluid, done it before, but honestly i dont think it works for a lot of leaks, only ones that blow exhaust into the coolant

Brodix aluminum block. Lighter than a small block... :flipoff2:


My buddy had a bad time with those tests. Did gaskets twice and still coming up positive for exhaust. I asked if he had fully flushed the system...

15 minutes with a garden hose and then fresh coolant and it tested good again. :laughing:
 
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