What's new
By:
Filters

Big Right Angle Attachment

ChiScouter

Red Skull Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Member Number
1753
Messages
376
I just drilled 34 3 inch diameter holes in a 100ft long leaning concrete seawall. Next step is to have trenches dug, then to run rod through the wall and 20ft back to dead men to stabilize it. The plan is to use rebar and on the last couple of feet weld on all thread and then tighten it down. Rather than put my impact gun right on the nut I would like to use a right angle attachment. Several reasons for that including making the trench smaller and making the impact stronger with the gear reduction. For the right angle attachment I am thinking that some sort of small aluminum housing Independent suspension diff with the spiders welded would do the trick. After tightening 34 of these rods I would consider it used up so I am not really concerned about oiling it for the long haul . To resist it flopping around an arm at a right angle to the impact gun might be a good idea. I would be inclined to weld the necessary pieces to the shafts in order to make it work with 3/4 inch drive impact gun and sockets. I might farm out lathe work if necessary to facilitate that. Are there any diffs that you guys are aware of that would be readily adaptable to this?
 
I am concerned that the gears and mass of the diff might absorb the impacts but would hope that the gear reduction combined with the torque of the gun would overcome that. I would think that post hole digger gearbox would be the same as a diff except about 200 bucks more. Impact gun is what was the top of the line M18 Fuel 3/4 inch drive about 3 years ago so it has about 250,000 lbs of nut busting torque lol.
 
How big of nut are you talking about? 2” threaded rod or 3”? With that length of setup I would be more worried about finding or making a socket that is 12” or more long to accept the rod. Other wise it will be tighten torch off and repeat. Best bet would be a Hytorc Jgun. Slow but will be able to get 3-4000 foot pounds without blowing a arm out.

Any right angle attachment will decrease the impact by way to much.

We have a bunch of huge bolts to tighten on the crushers. I use slugger wrenches to get the required torque on the large stuff. Don’t be a girl and says it too much work I have 9 bolts to loosen and retighten to adjust my jaw and I just use the sluggers. They are simple cheap and work.

3B1BA984-D2AC-48A9-B575-A394E08C6C14.png
 
Last edited:
Hammer wrenches will get studs as tight as anything else. They were around loooong before the impact was invented.

If you have a way to lock the body from moving, renting a HYTORC would work too.

Hytorc

stealth-3.png
 
boardbysled said:
You shouldn't need to get them super tight? Snug should keep the wall from moving any. Unless I am missing something
Click to expand...

He's going to have to get a decent load on them to get the deadmen locked it. Maybe not so much load, but a buch of turns to take up the "slack" while everything compresses.

I'd go with hydraulic or air/hydraulic too, but the reaction arm could be difficult. You could probably use a piece of pipe and just lay it against the ground as the arm.

I used to buy these for my steel erections on bridge jobs. Not cheap, but they make stupid torque and are very repeatable.

RAD-Pic-1.jpg
 
What size threaded rod. They make rackets that allow the threaded rod pass thru.
 
The engineer recommended 3/4 inch rod but I plan on going at least one inch for consideration of it rusting. I am also surfing CL, FB marketplace and elsewhere to try to find some deals.
 
Have you looked at Dywidag drill anchor rods and nuts? Designed for shoring and slope stabilization. Don't know how your budget is or how they compare to what you intend.
 
ChiScouter said:
The engineer recommended 3/4 inch rod but I plan on going at least one inch for consideration of it rusting. I am also surfing CL, FB marketplace and elsewhere to try to find some deals.
Click to expand...

Lol 34 3/4” or 1” threaded rod that’s do it by hand size. I was thinking 2” or bigger threaded rod. A 3/4” drive ratchet and in a hour or two you would be done.
 
ChiScouter said:
The engineer recommended 3/4 inch rod but I plan on going at least one inch for consideration of it rusting. I am also surfing CL, FB marketplace and elsewhere to try to find some deals.
Click to expand...
at 20 foot long that's gonna spring so bad you won't get it very tight at all with an impact
chzbrgr has the right idea

haven't done the math on bolt stretch in a long time, but I'm thinking you'll get a couple inches of stretch out of a "bolt" that long after it has snugged up, never mind it pulling the seawall back into place

make sure to pay the extra for the longer stroke cylinder, and get a two speed porta-power pump if not a powered one
 
[486 said:
;n229148]
at 20 foot long that's gonna spring so bad you won't get it very tight at all with an impact
chzbrgr has the right idea

haven't done the math on bolt stretch in a long time, but I'm thinking you'll get a couple inches of stretch out of a "bolt" that long after it has snugged up, never mind it pulling the seawall back into place

make sure to pay the extra for the longer stroke cylinder, and get a two speed porta-power pump if not a powered one
Click to expand...

Plan was to lap weld the rebar to the threaded rod and make a wrench to capture it at the weld to reduce the spring back. Not planning on trying to pull the wall back vertical. Pulling back the wall has been discussed but there was stone behind it and I fear that the stone has wedged between the wall and the sill and trying to straighten the wall may crack it or tear or dislodge the rebar between the wall and the sill.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh