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Best Milwaukee portaband?

2729-20 hasn't let me down yet. Spins a bit slower than a plug in but works great for quick projects.
 
There's only two battery ones. Get the big one for big stuff or the small one for small stuff. Both cut stuff just fine
 
I have the deep throat one. Works good, but it's pretty much a 2 handed unit, so no holding the pipe and the saw
 
Yeahn the 4" put the battery on the front of the saw over the cut, the 3" has it on the back of the handle and balances well.
 
I have the deep throat one. Works good, but it's pretty much a 2 handed unit, so no holding the pipe and the saw
I cut one handed sometimes. Lay the saw on the ground face up, then lift the pipe on top and let gravity help you with the cutting.
At least that's what I do with 3/8 threaded rod, where you don't have to worry about the material pinching the blade.

I also mostly use mine clamped in the vise and a spring clamp on the trigger. I like clamping accross the upper T handle, and let the body of the saw rest against the vise. No chance of squeezing and breaking vital components that way.
 
Use a 2729-20 just about every day. Wish it was a bit deeper cut, but not a big deal

I clamp the thing in the vise sometimes and zip tie the trigger when I'm doing fancy stuff.:grinpimp:

I gotta torch and plenty of zip wheels if I need to do that one handed samurai swing chop stuff.
 
:flipoff2:


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whatever one you get, shim the blade rollers and fence for a square cut.


i have never seen anyone do it other than me so far... but being tired of shitty cuts and destroying blades prematurly due to the blade cutting one way at the fence and different further out. i started shimming to tru the blade, and the fence. makes a world of difference in limiting frustration and good blade life. i'm also pretty careful to be sure i retract the fence when store to prevent it from bending.

*also if you have the m18. quit running the fuckers all out for everything. you can adjust the blade speed for a reason.


seemingly small tweaks, but you run into a job fitting 4" stainless sch40 pipe and you'll see a huge difference.

every single cut here was done with the m18 portaband. if i didn't have it tuned up right i would have either hated life or brought a shop saw to the boat. this was only a small part of the job.

4ufHDIeqPgHn_PZCRY5HA=w459-h612-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
nrwFdPKUjlrLoAXByq4m4=w816-h612-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 
whatever one you get, shim the blade rollers and fence for a square cut.


i have never seen anyone do it other than me so far... but being tired of shitty cuts and destroying blades prematurly due to the blade cutting one way at the fence and different further out. i started shimming to tru the blade, and the fence. makes a world of difference in limiting frustration and good blade life. i'm also pretty careful to be sure i retract the fence when store to prevent it from bending.

*also if you have the m18. quit running the fuckers all out for everything. you can adjust the blade speed for a reason.


seemingly small tweaks, but you run into a job fitting 4" stainless sch40 pipe and you'll see a huge difference.

every single cut here was done with the m18 portaband. if i didn't have it tuned up right i would have either hated life or brought a shop saw to the boat. this was only a small part of the job.

4ufHDIeqPgHn_PZCRY5HA=w459-h612-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
nrwFdPKUjlrLoAXByq4m4=w816-h612-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
Do you have detail on how you shimmed the rollers and squared the fence?
 
Do you have detail on how you shimmed the rollers and squared the fence?
i just cut little aluminum shims. loosen the roller blocks and shim under. can remember if its shims under the fence or just bend it?

use whatever big tube you got to run test cuts until its right.


*and be sure to start with a good new blade, that doesn't already pull one way.



when they aren't square it seems you start your cut and then always correct it in the same direction. so always wearing one side of the blade more and more until you cant take it anymore.... they last way longer when you can run a cut without always trying to correct. most people i iknow never really dull a blade, but replace it as it starts hooking too bad.
 
i just cut little aluminum shims. loosen the roller blocks and shim under. can remember if its shims under the fence or just bend it?

use whatever big tube you got to run test cuts until its right.


*and be sure to start with a good new blade, that doesn't already pull one way.



when they aren't square it seems you start your cut and then always correct it in the same direction. so always wearing one side of the blade more and more until you cant take it anymore.... they last way longer when you can run a cut without always trying to correct. most people i iknow never really dull a blade, but replace it as it starts hooking too bad.
Appreciate it thanks.
 
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