Did a little tube bending project I’m wrapping up now. Full hydraulic bender is from JMR. Not tubing notcher was used on this job but a 5” cut off wheel and 4.5” sander disc was used. The tube was 1” OD .125 wall DOM.
I have no idea how people use vertical tubing benders for multiple bends on the same tube. This is the second horizontal tubing bender I’ve owned. Only reason I upgraded was for whole fraction dies (i e 5” radius vs 5.5” radius) as well as the new bender will bend .25 wall chrome molly tubing. I haven’t tried that but I have bent some .375 wall 2” OD DOM in it before.
I like using the horizontal bender is for several reasons.
One being i have an angle tool I made that I use over the tube being bent as a true precise bend. Basically i eagle eye it with alignment over the tube being bent. While my bender has a degree radius gauge mounted on it for use with an adjustable finger, I do not trust it for accuracy at all.
Second is for preforming multiple bends on the same tube. I cannot image doing this in a virtual bender at all. I use a digital degree readout tool that I set on the flat side of the tubing die and get the readout from that, then I lay a flat aluminum ruler on top of the previous bend and adjust the tube in the die (I have the tube bender putting slight pressure on the tube at the correct bend location allowing me to rotate the tube) i align the tube to match the tube dies degree of level and start bending from there. This is for multiple bends on the same plane for reference.
Thirdly performing compound bends on the same tube. In this case, I mount the digital readout tool to the tube being bent. I get the tube level with the bender and then go from there. Ideally you want your bending machine level to start with. But in my experience, the tubing die being used will have its own level point apart from the machine itself. There is play in the die pivot pin to the die and etc.
I need access to the tube to preform bends above and I’m not climbing a ladder or fighting the tube in the die for correct start of bend location after other bends are done, if that makes any scenes to you.
Anywho, I’ll post up photos of the tubes I bent for a John Deere gator job I’m doing. I built the foot rest extensions, front bumper / brush guard, fender guards and a cross over tube for a windshield mounting.
The cross over windshield tube was bent as follows. The center bend was first, then three bends after that in the tube in one direction and then flipping the tube and bending out the other three bends from center out. This method allows for equal bend forms on both ends of the tube. The last two bends on this tube are very close together and actually too close really.
Anywho, enjoy the photos posted up and I hope there is some knowledge in all the stuff stated above that may help someone out.
