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Bend tech pro or notcher

Bend tech for me is a MUST have. It allows me to completely visualize the design and create really complex parts with only a cutoff wheel if needed.

I ended up buying a JD2 notch master to speed up the process but it is not required at all.
 
And it might matter if you are somewhat fluent with CAD, coordinate systems etc.
They have templates now for cages, bumpers etc. that might be useful for CAD challenged person but I like to input all my own pick points and go from there.
 
Bend tech. Notching can be done with a grinder with a cut off wheel, and a second grinder to clean up the cut pretty fast. If you watch some of the tutorials on doing single parts or using the harpoon feature, you can do a lot with no templates. I have bend tech, rc templates, armor templates. The template upgrades are sometimes on sale for a pretty reduced price.

You do not need to be fluent in CAD. It is easy to figure out. spend about an hour watching youtube on bend tech operations from actual users, and not just the company.

I do also have a notcher that i use with a milwaukee angle drill (trust, you will want an angle drill unless you like broken arms and fucked up wrists", but hacking the ends of the pipe is sometimes quicker and easier to do with cut off, and sometimes the notches need a little love anyways.
 
I have Bend Tech too

support is great, I don't think that has been said yet

and the you tube channel is there
 
If I remember correctly bendtech has the print outs for notches? Its been many moons since I have used it, but i remeber it being cool. I need to buy a new one for the this computer.
 
If I remember correctly bendtech has the print outs for notches? Its been many moons since I have used it, but i remeber it being cool. I need to buy a new one for the this computer.
it should transfer
I have switched computers and transferred everything over

depending what version you get, but they should have the wrappers for you layout
 
yeh it was on an old computer and the disk is misplaced.....:homer:
 
looks like they are having some black Friday deals, just got a email from them yesterday
 
If I remember correctly bendtech has the print outs for notches? Its been many moons since I have used it, but i remeber it being cool. I need to buy a new one for the this computer.
I got a new computer, emailed bendtech and they sent me a download. Each license is good for 2 or three computers , since I was swapping one for one it was easy.

X2 for appreciating their customer service
 
and the link for those that are interested

 
Bend tech. Notching can be done with a grinder with a cut off wheel, and a second grinder to clean up the cut pretty fast. If you watch some of the tutorials on doing single parts or using the harpoon feature, you can do a lot with no templates. I have bend tech, rc templates, armor templates. The template upgrades are sometimes on sale for a pretty reduced price.

You do not need to be fluent in CAD. It is easy to figure out. spend about an hour watching youtube on bend tech operations from actual users, and not just the company.

I do also have a notcher that i use with a milwaukee angle drill (trust, you will want an angle drill unless you like broken arms and fucked up wrists", but hacking the ends of the pipe is sometimes quicker and easier to do with cut off, and sometimes the notches need a little love anyways.
I have really fucked up my wrists with traditional drills and hole saw notchers, but I'm not understanding how the angle drill would help with this. I know it's an older thread, but I'm hoping you can explain. It would be a lot more economical for me to buy an angle drill than an end mill notcher (and I'm getting really old and so decrepit I have trouble fabbing much due to joint pain).
 
I have really fucked up my wrists with traditional drills and hole saw notchers, but I'm not understanding how the angle drill would help with this. I know it's an older thread, but I'm hoping you can explain. It would be a lot more economical for me to buy an angle drill than an end mill notcher (and I'm getting really old and so decrepit I have trouble fabbing much due to joint pain).
the leverage of the handle, and how your hand is aligned with the handle
 
the leverage of the handle, and how your hand is aligned with the handle
Thanks for the reply. I can't really afford one of those end mill notchers, but I was getting pretty desperate. The angle drill is worth trying at least.
 
Thanks for the reply. I can't really afford one of those end mill notchers, but I was getting pretty desperate. The angle drill is worth trying at least.
I just use a regular drill
notcher is mounted to a base (some mount to the work bench)
if things go sideways, I just let it go
it is all mounted together, it just goes roundy roundy until it stops
 
I have really fucked up my wrists with traditional drills and hole saw notchers, but I'm not understanding how the angle drill would help with this. I know it's an older thread, but I'm hoping you can explain. It would be a lot more economical for me to buy an angle drill than an end mill notcher (and I'm getting really old and so decrepit I have trouble fabbing much due to joint pain).
You have effectively gained leverage when notching the tube. The way it is held is different, so it will not act like torsion on your arm. I have yet to have any kind of kick. And they can be pricy, but a broken arm and fucked up hands are more so.
Like cutting butter. I will never go back to using a normal drill for notching. Not worth the risk.
 
I think the gear reduction helps a ton too, the super hole hawg was made for plumbers and electricians spinning large dia bits in wood studs.
 
I have really fucked up my wrists with traditional drills and hole saw notchers, but I'm not understanding how the angle drill would help with this.
After a couple times of doing a number on my wrists and fingers, I got wise and turned the clutch on my drill down - and definitely off the "drill" mode. Find the point where it stops before it wrenches your body. Yeah, it stops the drill repeatedly, but as I'm getting older I'll take that over fucking up my wrists more than they are now.

Clutch.JPG
 
I’ve had good luck using a mud mixing drill. Super low rpm and more leverage than most 90* drills. It’s speed that bites you and wears out the hole saw. I use that drill for honing engine cylinders and boring oversized oil galleys with large twist drills, too. It’s hogged as much steel as gallons of mud when I remodeled my house.
 
You have effectively gained leverage when notching the tube. The way it is held is different, so it will not act like torsion on your arm. I have yet to have any kind of kick. And they can be pricy, but a broken arm and fucked up hands are more so.
Like cutting butter. I will never go back to using a normal drill for notching. Not worth the risk.
Thank you SOOO much for this info. I have several grand in different holesaw notchers, some of which are outstanding...but with my joint issues, I've been looking at crazy expensive alternatives. I'm tracking down the Milwaukee now!
 
After a couple times of doing a number on my wrists and fingers, I got wise and turned the clutch on my drill down - and definitely off the "drill" mode. Find the point where it stops before it wrenches your body. Yeah, it stops the drill repeatedly, but as I'm getting older I'll take that over fucking up my wrists more than they are now.

Clutch.JPG
I don't have that option unfortunately. Mine are all 1/2" corded drills with keyed chucks for notching tube. I'm just not a fan of battery operated tools for really hard use during fabrication.
 
Thank you SOOO much for this info. I have several grand in different holesaw notchers, some of which are outstanding...but with my joint issues, I've been looking at crazy expensive alternatives. I'm tracking down the Milwaukee now!
If I was in your position I would add a reaction arm to my setup so the drill is transferring torque to the "arm" instead of your body.
Similar to a handheld pipe threading machine uses.

5c8d6ca2354d5c35f9621ce1c246da937b553de9-medium.png
 
If I was in your position I would add a reaction arm to my setup so the drill is transferring torque to the "arm" instead of your body.
Similar to a handheld pipe threading machine uses.

5c8d6ca2354d5c35f9621ce1c246da937b553de9-medium.png
Any idea where I might find something like that I could buy off the shelf and adapt? A google search isn't coming up with much. I guess I could make something out of a welded C clamp with V shaped angle jaws mabye....
 
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