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rockota

rockota

white collar hillbilly
Joined
May 28, 2020
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1642
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3,959
Bench is 3/4” plywood currently. It’s been bugging me a bit.

Is (cheap) Formica a really bad idea?
 
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Hard to beat plywood for durability and cost of replacement when it gets too trashed. The plywood bench I had in my old garage served me well, I always intended to add another layer of plywood on top of it for a little more rigidity though.
 
TrikeKid said:
Hard to beat plywood for durability and cost of replacement when it gets too trashed. The plywood bench I had in my old garage served me well, I always intended to add another layer of plywood on top of it for a little more rigidity though.
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Agree. I just want something a we bit more water resistant and easier to clean.

I had linoleum on my last bench. Worked decent, but too soft.
 
I just spilled enough oil on mine rebuilding stuff that over time it became pretty waterproof, never got "clean" but I just put down rags or butcher paper if I was doing something clean.
 
I used white formica on my bench about 6 years ago, it is super easy to clean, but will scratch up with heavier parts, sharp corners, etc. Another bench nearby with a steel or aluminum top would be the best combo, I think.
I'd recommend MDF or similar under the formica, I don't think the laminate would stay attached to plywood.
 
rockota said:
Just standard bench work.
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There is a difference between something that is going to see woodworking projects vs. something you're throwing a transmission onto...

rockota said:
Agree. I just want something a we bit more water resistant and easier to clean.
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Ok, that gives something to go on. As said, Formica is pretty easy to scratch up, but will be water resistant and easy to clean. You can adhere it to plywood with contact cement, but the smoother the plywood the better. MDF would have the issue of not being as water resistant and would swell if it did get soaked.

I've known a number of people who do a solid plywood top and then a sheet of masonite fastened down on top of that. When it gets torn up too much, remove the masonite and put down a new sheet. However, it isn't going to be very good with water although oil will just soak into it.

For automotive work, a sheet of aluminum, stainless, or oiled mild steel is hard to beat. Speaking of beating, better to have a hard surface under it so that it doesn't dent as much. Otherwise, go for a thicker sheet.
 
Possible it may see a slider or minor fab work. Probably not heavier. Thinking Formica because it’s relatively cheap (think I can do both benches for under $120) plus contact cement.

Sheet aluminum or steel would be better but not as budget friendly
 
See if there are any tractor trailer repair shops locally. The one I am at regularly takes aluminum panels off of trailers to repair damage. They typically have rivet holes in them, but would be a cheap option if they'd sell/give you one.
 
I have plywood on my tall bench and just spray it down with brake parts cleaner. Turns it from gear oil black to back to regular plywood. I’ve been told siding/window aluminum makes a great worktop, but haven’t seen it done. I’ve got 1/8” aluminum on my movable bench and I love it, but didnt pay for it.
 
I have used both the Formica and plain plywood. There is nothing worng with 3/4 flywood, that is my default workbench. If you are tearing down motors or something then I would go with metal with a gutter. Plain ol Plywood works at our house. I have rebuilt many engines on them just fine
Formica shown the damage and dirt/dust
 
I actually slapped some rubber horse stall mat from TSC on top of my work bench, been on there 6 years and works great. I have a 18"x2' piece of 3/4" steel plate with some small standoffs on it for when I need to weld something on there. Cleans up easily, non absorbent, and take abuse well. 0 complaints from me.
 
I have a couple 5' sections of old laminate countertop I pull out as needed for clean or oily jobs
 
2x4 sideways nailed together, poverty fab table you can screw things to it to help support things or for a prying surface. The rounded edges catch crap but also stop small screws and springs from rolling off the bench, it’s also water, solvent and oil proof.
 
rockota said:
Possible it may see a slider or minor fab work. Probably not heavier. Thinking Formica because it’s relatively cheap (think I can do both benches for under $120) plus contact cement.

Sheet aluminum or steel would be better but not as budget friendly
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$120 will buy a 4'x8'x1/8" mild steel sheet, how big is the bench?
 
2 layers of 3/4 ply

Top with masonite, coat with about 4-6 coats of watco Danish oil. Oil wipes off, glue doesn't stick well. When it gets beat and gouged out scrape the masonite off and replace
 
Pocahontas said:
2x4 sideways nailed together, poverty fab table you can screw things to it to help support things or for a prying surface. The rounded edges catch crap but also stop small screws and springs from rolling off the bench, it’s also water, solvent and oil proof.
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Buy 2x8s or whatever and rip them on the table saw if the round edge is an issue. A work bench is so small it won't add much cost.
 
Two of the benches I have are desk/table tops from the Restore. One o knocked the legs off (Formica) and the other is a dinner table that the legs were totally broken off - was $10. It’s just some kind of wood and attached to the wall with some welded brackets and posts for legs. Formica isn’t bad just don’t be throwing transmissions on it.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
$120 will buy a 4'x8'x1/8" mild steel sheet, how big is the bench?
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one is 3x6. The other is 2x8 x 2x6 L-shape.

I'll call the local steal supplier this week... that may prove a good option as well. Though dealing with humidity may be constant up keep.
 
i want to do a butcher block bench if i ever decide i need a new one. basicly glue 20 2x4s together and sand / epoxy the top. would be sturdy for sure. and not too expensive.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
i want to do a butcher block bench if i ever decide i need a new one. basicly glue 20 2x4s together and sand / epoxy the top. would be sturdy for sure. and not too expensive.
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I have a (cheap Home Depot) butcher block top for one of my cabinets. It's okay. Definitely way better than plywood!
 
Spar Urethane, lots of coats, on one side sanded good plywood (not standard ply, the sanded ply). It is stupidly durable, fluids and everything just wipe right off. It's still quite cheap though compared to anything bought.

I wouldn't use laminate countertops (formica), the only other option IMO is plate steel if you're doing heavy fab or rebuilding engines/gearboxes on it.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
I skinned a double layer 3/4 plywood bench with heavy gauge galvanized steel. Local tinbanger bent it for me.

Works good and easy to clean.
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Avoid galvanized, any hot work/welding it's just a PITA avoiding fumes. Regular steel with WD40 or similar over the mill scale will hold up just fine and not rust. If it does, a quick little hit with scotch bite and more wd40 and you're good to go.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Buy 2x8s or whatever and rip them on the table saw if the round edge is an issue. A work bench is so small it won't add much cost.
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Originally I was going to set up a router sled to make it flat but then I said to myself it’s a workbench it will just get destroyed. It turned out the little groves are nice at stopping small parts from rolling off the bench into the void.
 
I skinned an old wood bench with a section of an old ice chest sheet metal skin. Has 2x2 1/8" angle iron over the front edge and up the back. I've done all kinds of welding and rebuilds on it over the last 20yrs. It gets cleaned with a Scotch pad and wd40 once a year or as needed. Can't drop heavy things but works great.
 
One of my benches i grabbed out of a garbage bin on a work site, I think it may have been a door, someone put stainless steel on it. I use it for transmissions and such. I just picked up another table off an auction site, fab shop went tits up. 1/4" steel top with tube legs, real cheap. If you're going to use 2x4s stacked on end, get yourself 3/8ths ready rod and cross drill all the 2x4s, then stick the ready rod through the 2x4s and nut together with big washers and wood glue. When you're done you will have a table that can support a shit load of weight.
 
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