Axle swaps besides Toyota/wag44?

[Tech Tim]

Stock or even the aftermarket? My Currie C’s dwarf the stockers

Stock.

Is a simple gusset all it takes to keep them from bending?

Yes.

You can build them yourself or get pre-made kits like these: Artec Industries Inner C Gussets

 

[Aisin]

Toyota FZJ80 was 93 to 97. Elocker was an option. I got my axles out of a 93 for $350. The rear was $300. The front was listed as junk. They only wanted $50 for it. When I went to look at it the only thing wrong with it was the passenger side steering arm studs had sheared. I bought all new hardware for both sides for $20.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Toyota FZJ80 was 93 to 97. Elocker was an option. I got my axles out of a 93 for $350. The rear was $300. The front was listed as junk. They only wanted $50 for it. When I went to look at it the only thing wrong with it was the passenger side steering arm studs had sheared. I bought all new hardware for both sides for $20.

My 2nd axle swap on my first Sami was Fzj80s. I paid a lot more than $350 though. They're a good setup for a Sami, in some ways. Offset to the correct side f&r. Toyota driveline flanges and brakes are easy to adapt.

The biggest problem is steering and availability. There weren't all that many of those made, and with the broverlander trend, I can't imagine many 80s being parted, even wrecked ones.

 

[flexy flatty]

My 2nd axle swap on my first Sami was Fzj80s. I paid a lot more than $350 though. They're a good setup for a Sami, in some ways. Offset to the correct side f&r. Toyota driveline flanges and brakes are easy to adapt.

The biggest problem is steering and availability. There weren't all that many of those made, and with the broverlander trend, I can't imagine many 80s being parted, even wrecked ones.

The 9.5 rear axle is kind of a monster for anything resembling a street-able rig too. Great option for a monster trail build. I considered them for my lj10 build but am hoping for something less overkill.

 

[TRINDU]

My 2nd axle swap on my first Sami was Fzj80s. I paid a lot more than $350 though. They're a good setup for a Sami, in some ways. Offset to the correct side f&r. Toyota driveline flanges and brakes are easy to adapt.

The biggest problem is steering and availability. There weren't all that many of those made, and with the broverlander trend, I can't imagine many 80s being parted, even wrecked ones.

They show up in yards every now and then. Broverlanders only care about instagram and paying too much for gay shit. So they usually get overlooked. I paid $300 for a pair about a year ago.

Diamond finally came off with their steering for them. $1000 seems steep till you realize its pimp fab'd knuckles and keyed arms.

And trail-queer wants $700 for their chinesium kit.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

The 9.5 rear axle is kind of a monster for anything resembling a street-able rig too. Great option for a monster trail build. I considered them for my lj10 build but am hoping for something less overkill.

If you say so, it's not really that huge. I wouldn't hesitate with 35s+, less than 35s, I'd keep the Sami stuff.

They are wide for 35s though, unless you can run lots of back spacing. Mine were about perfect on 37s with 5" bs 17x8s

They show up in yards every now and then. Broverlanders only care about instagram and paying too much for gay shit. So they usually get overlooked. I paid $300 for a pair about a year ago.

I got my last one for $160 with no 3rd and the steering box. So ya, I guess they're out there. I just don't see them being plentiful any time soon.

Diamond finally came off with their steering for them. $1000 seems steep till you realize its pimp fab'd knuckles and keyed arms.

And trail-queer wants $700 for their chinesium kit.

I don't think trail gear makes an FJ knuckle? I had hellfires, the pre ruff stuff version. They were cool, and beef. But had a lot of missed details. Arms sat really high, like 2-3" above my leafs, so the drag link would hit the frame easily. They also made the bold holes too close together and the hiems would hit before full lock. Ruff stuff replaced the funky flame cut arms with billet ones, that still had the same issues

I will say I never worried about a knuckle or steering stud failure. I think if I had done them, I would have tried to design them to use D60 arms.

 

[TRINDU]

I don't think trail gear makes an FJ knuckle? D60 arms.

They dont, was just comparing vs mini cost.

You can easily sink $3500 in a 80 front though.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

They dont, was just comparing vs mini cost.

You can easily sink $3500 in a 80 front though.

I had ~$2k just in rcv and steering. I had a cheap lunchbox v6 3rd though.

I had built a 62" wide semi float 35 spline rear D60 with the Yukon TD60 kit, that I was going run with it since my main issue was rear r&p gears. I then broke a front 4.10 r&p and bent my trusses housing. I really considered having diamond build a 9" housing with Fj80 balls. Which honestly would have been bullet proof for me. Had I done this at the time of ordering rcv's it would have not been too bad since rcv doesn't charge much more for custom innners. Buying them separately wasn't cheap and it just felt like a waste of money to put Toyota balls on a 9" housing.

Cool story bro, I know

As far as under a Sami, I ran my FZJ80 bone stock, welded diff. I broke a few birfs, but was running dual Toyota cases with rear 4.7 and 37 stickies. The majority of my wheelin was done at moon rocks, which is like 24 grit sand paper.

 

[91samurai]

I have a tj Dana 30 under the front of mine. I cut both tubes off and sleeved and welded them to be passenger drop.

I also have a tj Dana 30 under the back of mine with the steering locked out. It’s more of a temporary solution but it’s working good right now.

Both are factory 4.10s from a 4 cylinder Jeep. The rear is welded and the front has a Spartan. My biggest complaint with them is I wish I could have converted them to 5x5.5 instead of running adapters to keep my beadlocks

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I have a tj Dana 30 under the front of mine. I cut both tubes off and sleeved and welded them to be passenger drop.

I also have a tj Dana 30 under the back of mine with the steering locked out. It’s more of a temporary solution but it’s working good right now.

Both are factory 4.10s from a 4 cylinder Jeep. The rear is welded and the front has a Spartan. My biggest complaint with them is I wish I could have converted them to 5x5.5 instead of running adapters to keep my beadlocks

Well that wasn't what I was expecting

So many questions

Is the TJ30 hp?

I'd be curious to see the Sami r&p next to a D30, I'm guessing the D30 is ever so slightly bigger.

Are you planning rear steer, or was it just any easy way to get an offset rear?

What size tires and what type of wheelin?

 

[Wilson]

If I recall correctly the d30 R&P is slightly larger, but the shat size/ strength is the big advantage

 

[YotaAtieToo]

If I recall correctly the d30 R&P is slightly larger, but the shat size/ strength is the big advantage

Right, still hard to justify in the rear. But it works it works.

Thats kinda the delema I have now, I can do the hybrid rear and get a much larger r&p, but still stuck with puny 26 spline 1" shafts. I may try and find some Toyota or whatever side gears and try to grind, I mean machine them into a kick 3rd. Custom semi float shafts are not expensive.

 

[91samurai]

Well that wasn't what I was expecting

So many questions

Is the TJ30 hp?

I'd be curious to see the Sami r&p next to a D30, I'm guessing the D30 is ever so slightly bigger.

Are you planning rear steer, or was it just any easy way to get an offset rear?

What size tires and what type of wheelin?

Both are low pinion. I had to run a low pinion in the front for oil pan clearance.

Not sure on the actual measurements but the Dana 30 parts feel a lot beefier to me. I ran stock axles under my samurai until I broke a front birfield. I was already planning on swapping something wider in so I never fixed the samurai axle.

My original plan included rear steer. But i have changed directions and I’m building a full floating 8.8 for the rear

I run 31inch Ltb swampers on beadlocks around 3 psi. I wheel mostly in nc, there’s a national forest close by that has some easy but fun trails. Harlan and the gulches is the most serious I get to now.

 

[Captain]

Bump.

Still scratching my head on this one....Was there a clear winner in this thread?

I've got a 02 tracker that I'd like to start collecting parts for SAS (vs. dump any more $$$ into IFS) and try and run 35's+

Wagoneer axles - can't find them for sale in my area (FL/GA)...and even if I did...same sentiment in OP...worth it?

Toyota axles - can find a couple of them for sale.......again...worth it? Every build I've seen them used in the builder says "should've gone wider"

Are re-tubed full width 05+ super duty tons (w/ lots of backspace wheel) stupid for hunting/SE trails/wheeling rig with 35's+

Figure out a divorced tcase driver drop setup?

What does the IBB brain trust recommend....

 

[Beat95yj]

Rockwells or you’re a bitch.

 

[Tech Tim]

Bump.

Still scratching my head on this one....Was there a clear winner in this thread?

No, it depends on what you need, how your are built and what you have available.

I've got a 02 tracker that I'd like to start collecting parts for SAS (vs. dump any more $$$ into IFS) and try and run 35's+

Wagoneer axles - can't find them for sale in my area (FL/GA)...and even if I did...same sentiment in OP...worth it?

Properly built Waggy axles will live with 35s all day long, 24/7/365.

Toyota axles - can find a couple of them for sale.......again...worth it? Every build I've seen them used in the builder says "should've gone wider"

Toyota axles are plenty strong for 35s if you go with RCVs.

If you need wider, retube them or get a fabricated housing from Front Range.

Are re-tubed full width 05+ super duty tons (w/ lots of backspace wheel) stupid for hunting/SE trails/wheeling rig with 35's+

Yes. Overkill and loss of ground clearance, waste of time for 35s.

 

[Captain]

Rockwells or you’re a bitch.

Thanks

 

[Captain]

No, it depends on what you need, how your are built and what you have available.

Need = win the lotto
How I'm built = currently nothing more than 2.5V6/auto/IFS/spacers/32s
Have available = no waggy axles I can locate in FL/GA...I'll keep looking

Properly built Waggy axles will live with 35s all day long, 24/7/365.

Toyota axles are plenty strong for 35s if you go with RCVs.

If you need wider, retube them or get a fabricated housing from Front Range.

Yes. Overkill and loss of ground clearance, waste of time for 35s.

What's consensus for each with 37's then?

Chevy 60 cut down 2" to accept Bronco II axles?

 

[Tech Tim]

IDK about consensus, these are my limits:

Waggy Axles will handle 37s if the R&P are setup correctly and you're running a set of RCVs.

If you want to go 44, then I would look at a set of JK or even better JL axles. Narrow them to your needs, Use one of the aftermarket truss kits and run RCVs.

Strength wise on the R&P - JK is stronger than Waggy, JL is stronger than JK.

Toyota axles will hold 37s with RCVs, but the 8" is on the edge for the ring and pinion. Plus you are closed knuckle.

My vote would be to go with the 8.4 Tacoma diff. Get a Front Range housing or build your own and run the 44 outers.

60s have big center sections and are a waste for anything smaller than 40s (IMO - your results may vary).

BII axles? WTF?

 

[Captain]

Waggy Axles will handle 37s if the R&P are setup correctly and you're running a set of RCVs.

I'll keep looking for one for sale...that's seemingly biggest hurdle for this option so far

If you want to go 44, then I would look at a set of JK or even better JL axles. Narrow them to your needs, Use one of the aftermarket truss kits and run RCVs.

Strength wise on the R&P - JK is stronger than Waggy, JL is stronger than JK.

Toyota axles will hold 37s with RCVs, but the 8" is on the edge for the ring and pinion. Plus you are closed knuckle.

My vote would be to go with the 8.4 Tacoma diff. Get a Front Range housing or build your own and run the 44 outers.

Good info thanks.

60s have big center sections and are a waste for anything smaller than 40s (IMO - your results may vary).

Turns out...60s are for bitches...may as well go Rockwells at this point.

All I'm trying to do is avoid the inevitable...35s become 37s...which leads to...
Don't want to waste the time/$/effort on the smaller axles if I can avoid it

BII axles? WTF?

No idea aside from that's apparently what this guy did.

Tracker – 2004 Chevy Tracker Solid Axle Swap & More – iZook – Suzuki 4×4 Tech Information, Accessories, Travel & Adventure

www2.izook.com

 

[atoz2]

Bump.

Still scratching my head on this one....Was there a clear winner in this thread?

I've got a 02 tracker that I'd like to start collecting parts for SAS (vs. dump any more $$$ into IFS) and try and run 35's+

Wagoneer axles - can't find them for sale in my area (FL/GA)...and even if I did...same sentiment in OP...worth it?

Toyota axles - can find a couple of them for sale.......again...worth it? Every build I've seen them used in the builder says "should've gone wider"

Are re-tubed full width 05+ super duty tons (w/ lots of backspace wheel) stupid for hunting/SE trails/wheeling rig with 35's+

Figure out a divorced tcase driver drop setup?

What does the IBB brain trust recommend....

I have been dreaming about doing a grand vitara build for a while, for reference my 2dr 94 explorer is on tons. 40s, atlas ETC. biggest drag is its a decent bit heavier then all the toyotas around.

I had a grand vitara for a while and loved it. really think doing a wide low vitara would be awesome. just my 2 cents but i think you could find some cheap 1/2 ton chevrolet axles and just play with wheel backspacing.

lots of front 44/10 bolts get upgraded before the fullsize guys breakdown and get tons. could find something cheap. if you found a chevrolet d44 you could get the 5.89 gears if you are feeling trusting, could always find a d60 rear to get similar gear ratio.

F/r 9"s could be cool but spendy.

 

[Beat95yj]

Need = win the lotto
How I'm built = currently nothing more than 2.5V6/auto/IFS/spacers/32s
Have available = no waggy axles I can locate in FL/GA...I'll keep looking


What's consensus for each with 37's then?

Chevy 60 cut down 2" to accept Bronco II axles?

37‘s will live under a samurai with Toyotas or 44s. Unless you swapped a 6BT or something crazy in it.

 

[Tech Tim]

37‘s will live under a samurai with Toyotas or 44s. Unless you swapped a 6BT or something crazy in it.

What he said ^^^^

Keep in mind the 3 strikes rule for each axle choice:
Tire Size
Power
Vehicle Weight
You can usually get by with two of those, all three and it's an out.

It varies for every axle, but the end result is the same.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

37‘s will live under a samurai with Toyotas or 44s. Unless you swapped a 6BT or something crazy in it.

It's not a samurai though, it's a more 4runner sized suv with more than 50 hp.

Not that your point doesn't hold true still.


Biggest thing is use and driving style.

Guys run 44s on D44s under square body chevys all the time, but they don't wheel.

I've also seen guys tear up fully built D44s and Toyota axles in light rigs and 35s. But they're wheelin hard shit and pushing the limits.


A set of FJ80 axles would be a great setup for what you want. Just a few inches wider than the stock IFS and a little extra beef over the regular Toyota axles.

Or buy a pair of JK axles and have the front retubed for pass drop. Even the D30 would probably be fine under something so much lighter than a jk.

 

[JR4X]

Captain, are you going to doubler your ride? Manual or automatic trans?

 

[Captain]

I had a grand vitara for a while and loved it. really think doing a wide low vitara would be awesome.

I've absolutely come to love my tracker as well. Was supposed to just be a farm/hunt vehicle and be a cheap SxS alternative...found out how awesome they are...then saw some great builds on old board...now I'm going down the rabbit hole.

A wild Vitara approaches

www.pirate4x4.com

POLY PERFORMANCE After Hours Build: Project Snail Tracks

www.pirate4x4.com

just my 2 cents but i think you could find some cheap 1/2 ton chevrolet axles and just play with wheel backspacing.

lots of front 44/10 bolts get upgraded before the fullsize guys breakdown and get tons. could find something cheap. if you found a chevrolet d44 you could get the 5.89 gears if you are feeling trusting, could always find a d60 rear to get similar gear ratio.

Good info

It's not a samurai though, it's a more 4runner sized suv with more than 50 hp.

Guys run 44s on D44s under square body chevys all the time, but they don't wheel.

I've also seen guys tear up fully built D44s and Toyota axles in light rigs and 35s. But they're wheelin hard shit and pushing the limits.

Agreed...and of course I think I'll fall somewhere in between...

A set of FJ80 axles would be a great setup for what you want. Just a few inches wider than the stock IFS and a little extra beef over the regular Toyota axles.

Or buy a pair of JK axles and have the front retubed for pass drop. Even the D30 would probably be fine under something so much lighter than a jk.

Agreed on the FJ80s...but same problem...can't seem to find any for sale in my area

Found one set of junkyard FJ60s...

Captain, are you going to doubler your ride? Manual or automatic trans?

Doubler - hadn't planned on it.

Saw your(?) thread on track/kick doublers...do 1st/2nd gens use same tcase?

 

[JR4X]

Doubler - hadn't planned on it.

Saw your(?) thread on track/kick doublers...do 1st/2nd gens use same tcase?

I believe they are interchangeable, I know you can put the 4.24’s for a first gen into the second gen cases. Seems like there’s something where you can’t strait trade cases because the input shaft is a different diameter and spline.

I think your going to run into gear ratio limit problems trying to run 35’s with a stock case in high. The only solution I have to my problem is 9” diffs or a samurai transfer case.

 

[Wilson]

Rockwells or you’re a bitch.

Cut back on the sauce, or you might fall out of your chair!

 

[gozuki]

Cut back on the sauce, or you might fall out of your chair!

Again

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I've absolutely come to love my tracker as well. Was supposed to just be a farm/hunt vehicle and be a cheap SxS alternative...found out how awesome they are...then saw some great builds on old board...now I'm going down the rabbit hole.

A wild Vitara approaches

www.pirate4x4.com

POLY PERFORMANCE After Hours Build: Project Snail Tracks

www.pirate4x4.com

Good info

Agreed...and of course I think I'll fall somewhere in between...

Agreed on the FJ80s...but same problem...can't seem to find any for sale in my area

Found one set of junkyard FJ60s...

Doubler - hadn't planned on it.

Saw your(?) thread on track/kick doublers...do 1st/2nd gens use same tcase?

FJ60s are good too. Same knuckles as mini trucks, but they use the bigger 9.5" 3rd and are ~3" wider. The rear is offset and uses C clip. I'd maybe use it, or you can do the diy ifs/9.5 hybrid that looks pretty easy.

I believe they are interchangeable, I know you can put the 4.24’s for a first gen into the second gen cases. Seems like there’s something where you can’t strait trade cases because the input shaft is a different diameter and spline.

I think your going to run into gear ratio limit problems trying to run 35’s with a stock case in high. The only solution I have to my problem is 9” diffs or a samurai transfer case.

The only difference between my 99 tcase from. Behind a 2.0/5spd was a larger coarse spline rear output and electronic speedo.

The problem, like you know, is getting low enough r&p. Although he may be fine with the V6. Some used 4.30s iirc. So 5.29s or 5.71s and 35s would probably be fine.