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Axle swaps besides Toyota/wag44?

Aisin

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Toyota FZJ80 was 93 to 97. Elocker was an option. I got my axles out of a 93 for $350. The rear was $300. The front was listed as junk. They only wanted $50 for it. When I went to look at it the only thing wrong with it was the passenger side steering arm studs had sheared. I bought all new hardware for both sides for $20.
 

YotaAtieToo

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Toyota FZJ80 was 93 to 97. Elocker was an option. I got my axles out of a 93 for $350. The rear was $300. The front was listed as junk. They only wanted $50 for it. When I went to look at it the only thing wrong with it was the passenger side steering arm studs had sheared. I bought all new hardware for both sides for $20.
My 2nd axle swap on my first Sami was Fzj80s. I paid a lot more than $350 though. They're a good setup for a Sami, in some ways. Offset to the correct side f&r. Toyota driveline flanges and brakes are easy to adapt.

The biggest problem is steering and availability. There weren't all that many of those made, and with the broverlander trend, I can't imagine many 80s being parted, even wrecked ones.
 

flexy flatty

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My 2nd axle swap on my first Sami was Fzj80s. I paid a lot more than $350 though. They're a good setup for a Sami, in some ways. Offset to the correct side f&r. Toyota driveline flanges and brakes are easy to adapt.

The biggest problem is steering and availability. There weren't all that many of those made, and with the broverlander trend, I can't imagine many 80s being parted, even wrecked ones.
The 9.5 rear axle is kind of a monster for anything resembling a street-able rig too. Great option for a monster trail build. I considered them for my lj10 build but am hoping for something less overkill.
 

TRINDU

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My 2nd axle swap on my first Sami was Fzj80s. I paid a lot more than $350 though. They're a good setup for a Sami, in some ways. Offset to the correct side f&r. Toyota driveline flanges and brakes are easy to adapt.

The biggest problem is steering and availability. There weren't all that many of those made, and with the broverlander trend, I can't imagine many 80s being parted, even wrecked ones.

They show up in yards every now and then. Broverlanders only care about instagram and paying too much for gay shit. So they usually get overlooked. I paid $300 for a pair about a year ago.

Diamond finally came off with their steering for them. $1000 seems steep till you realize its pimp fab'd knuckles and keyed arms.

And trail-queer wants $700 for their chinesium kit.
 

YotaAtieToo

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The 9.5 rear axle is kind of a monster for anything resembling a street-able rig too. Great option for a monster trail build. I considered them for my lj10 build but am hoping for something less overkill.
:laughing:

If you say so, it's not really that huge. I wouldn't hesitate with 35s+, less than 35s, I'd keep the Sami stuff.

They are wide for 35s though, unless you can run lots of back spacing. Mine were about perfect on 37s with 5" bs 17x8s

They show up in yards every now and then. Broverlanders only care about instagram and paying too much for gay shit. So they usually get overlooked. I paid $300 for a pair about a year ago.

I got my last one for $160 with no 3rd and the steering box. So ya, I guess they're out there. I just don't see them being plentiful any time soon.

Diamond finally came off with their steering for them. $1000 seems steep till you realize its pimp fab'd knuckles and keyed arms.

And trail-queer wants $700 for their chinesium kit.

I don't think trail gear makes an FJ knuckle? I had hellfires, the pre ruff stuff version. They were cool, and beef. But had a lot of missed details. Arms sat really high, like 2-3" above my leafs, so the drag link would hit the frame easily. They also made the bold holes too close together and the hiems would hit before full lock. Ruff stuff replaced the funky flame cut arms with billet ones, that still had the same issues :homer:

I will say I never worried about a knuckle or steering stud failure. I think if I had done them, I would have tried to design them to use D60 arms.
 

YotaAtieToo

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They dont, was just comparing vs mini cost.

You can easily sink $3500 in a 80 front though.
I had ~$2k just in rcv and steering. I had a cheap lunchbox v6 3rd though.

I had built a 62" wide semi float 35 spline rear D60 with the Yukon TD60 kit, that I was going run with it since my main issue was rear r&p gears. I then broke a front 4.10 r&p and bent my trusses housing. I really considered having diamond build a 9" housing with Fj80 balls. Which honestly would have been bullet proof for me. Had I done this at the time of ordering rcv's it would have not been too bad since rcv doesn't charge much more for custom innners. Buying them separately wasn't cheap and it just felt like a waste of money to put Toyota balls on a 9" housing. :laughing:

Cool story bro, I know

As far as under a Sami, I ran my FZJ80 bone stock, welded diff. I broke a few birfs, but was running dual Toyota cases with rear 4.7 and 37 stickies. The majority of my wheelin was done at moon rocks, which is like 24 grit sand paper.
 

91samurai

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I have a tj Dana 30 under the front of mine. I cut both tubes off and sleeved and welded them to be passenger drop.

I also have a tj Dana 30 under the back of mine with the steering locked out. It’s more of a temporary solution but it’s working good right now.

Both are factory 4.10s from a 4 cylinder Jeep. The rear is welded and the front has a Spartan. My biggest complaint with them is I wish I could have converted them to 5x5.5 instead of running adapters to keep my beadlocks
 

YotaAtieToo

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I have a tj Dana 30 under the front of mine. I cut both tubes off and sleeved and welded them to be passenger drop.

I also have a tj Dana 30 under the back of mine with the steering locked out. It’s more of a temporary solution but it’s working good right now.

Both are factory 4.10s from a 4 cylinder Jeep. The rear is welded and the front has a Spartan. My biggest complaint with them is I wish I could have converted them to 5x5.5 instead of running adapters to keep my beadlocks

Well that wasn't what I was expecting :laughing:

So many questions :laughing:

Is the TJ30 hp?

I'd be curious to see the Sami r&p next to a D30, I'm guessing the D30 is ever so slightly bigger.

Are you planning rear steer, or was it just any easy way to get an offset rear?

What size tires and what type of wheelin?
 

Wilson

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If I recall correctly the d30 R&P is slightly larger, but the shat size/ strength is the big advantage
 

YotaAtieToo

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If I recall correctly the d30 R&P is slightly larger, but the shat size/ strength is the big advantage
Right, still hard to justify in the rear. But it works it works.

Thats kinda the delema I have now, I can do the hybrid rear and get a much larger r&p, but still stuck with puny 26 spline 1" shafts. I may try and find some Toyota or whatever side gears and try to grind, I mean machine them into a kick 3rd. Custom semi float shafts are not expensive.
 

91samurai

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Well that wasn't what I was expecting :laughing:

So many questions :laughing:

Is the TJ30 hp?

I'd be curious to see the Sami r&p next to a D30, I'm guessing the D30 is ever so slightly bigger.

Are you planning rear steer, or was it just any easy way to get an offset rear?

What size tires and what type of wheelin?
Both are low pinion. I had to run a low pinion in the front for oil pan clearance.

Not sure on the actual measurements but the Dana 30 parts feel a lot beefier to me. I ran stock axles under my samurai until I broke a front birfield. I was already planning on swapping something wider in so I never fixed the samurai axle.

My original plan included rear steer. But i have changed directions and I’m building a full floating 8.8 for the rear

I run 31inch Ltb swampers on beadlocks around 3 psi. I wheel mostly in nc, there’s a national forest close by that has some easy but fun trails. Harlan and the gulches is the most serious I get to now.
 
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