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Axial SCX10 II axle upgrade?

Sandy Johnson

Sandy Johnson

Harry Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
247
Messages
2,809
Loc
Spreckels, Ca
A while back I got this thing free in a volunteer raffle. I made two rules for it-

1. no upgrading to fancy parts if the existing ones work fine
2. Anyone who asks gets to drive it (it was free after all).


Well, I've have adults and little kids alike ask to play with this thing and I obliged. Some have a little sympathy for RC parts, others(little kids mostly) will smash it up. When my oldest was young, he got it stuck under a lawn chair, and walked away holding down the trigger. Motor couldn't turn, tires couldn't turn, so wires to the motor caught on fire and the motor fried itself.

I figure we're upgrading, might as well get a brushless motor and speed control to see if I can get some better battery life out of the thing. While I was at it, I got some stickier tires because the stock falken replica things sucked compared to other rc crawlers I had seen. Now suddenly this thing is too fast for its own good AND it has enough traction to become a problem.

My 5 year old has snapped a steering knuckle and two inner cs driving it hard. The plastic axial stuff is pretty cheap to replace, but he busted this last inner c within two weeks of fixing the previous one, and it takes just long enough to fix that I don't feel like doing that too many more times, so I'm thinking it's time for some stronger axles.

No idea what's good or what sucks. Anybody have any recommendations before I buy the first cheapo set I find on amazon?
 
I’ve heard the diamond style metal axles from Amazon are actually pretty decent never ran them personally though
 
SSD parts are solid and reasonably priced.

What KV brushless did you go with?
 
A lower KV motor with a sensored esc would transform the rig. The KV rating translates directly to 1000 rpm per volt. So 3300 rpm per volt means the motor is spinning about 28k rpm at full chooch on a freshly charged 2s lipo. That's manageable-ish but still pretty spirited for a child as you've noticed. :laughing:

A sensored motor and ESC are smooth on the bottom end of the speed spectrum. As it is now the sensorless motor acts like a 3 phase motor so it's choppy as it calculates input voltage into timing maps to match when tonfire the next phase. Adding a sensor to the mix means it knows where the motor is in relation to the rotation at all times.

I have a set of Vanquish products ar44 (scx10.2) knuckles here I'll never use along with some random bits, cover shipping and I'll mail it all out.
 
DWT said:
A lower KV motor with a sensored esc would transform the rig. The KV rating translates directly to 1000 rpm per volt. So 3300 rpm per volt means the motor is spinning about 28k rpm at full chooch on a freshly charged 2s lipo. That's manageable-ish but still pretty spirited for a child as you've noticed. :laughing:

A sensored motor and ESC are smooth on the bottom end of the speed spectrum. As it is now the sensorless motor acts like a 3 phase motor so it's choppy as it calculates input voltage into timing maps to match when tonfire the next phase. Adding a sensor to the mix means it knows where the motor is in relation to the rotation at all times.

I have a set of Vanquish products ar44 (scx10.2) knuckles here I'll never use along with some random bits, cover shipping and I'll mail it all out.
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the good info! Looks like I'll be shopping for a new motor and ESC.

I'm totally down for parts, I'll pm you.
 
I replaced my front plastic with a cheap $20 aluminum axle from Amazon. Put aluminum knuckles as well and my child has been unable to break to since. Went through 3 plastic housings prior the aluminum.
 
Wheeln1 said:
I replaced my front plastic with a cheap $20 aluminum axle from Amazon. Put aluminum knuckles as well and my child has been unable to break to since. Went through 3 plastic housings prior the aluminum.
Click to expand...
Little update. I found a $22 aluminum AR44 housing on amazon and some aluminum inner cs to go on it. All the parts from my stock axle swapped over except for the bearings that press into the outside of the inner cs. Had to order those separate. Ready to rock and roll just in time for my 5 year old to destroy it at axialfest.
 
If you have universal style axles (non dog bone) just leave those bearings out. They don't do anything but cause steering bind.
 
DWT said:
If you have universal style axles (non dog bone) just leave those bearings out. They don't do anything but cause steering bind.
Click to expand...
Heh I swapped in universal style axles and set the dog bones aside as spares.

Also it turns out that I'm completely retarded. The stock bearings from my other axle fit, I just had to press them in BEFORE putting on the removable inner Cs :homer::laughing:.

The wife actually pointed it out to me last night. I'm a dumbass. So now I've got all the bearings in and super dooper steering bind axles installed. What could possibly go wrong?
 
Harry Johnson said:
Heh I swapped in universal style axles and set the dog bones aside as spares.

Also it turns out that I'm completely retarded. The stock bearings from my other axle fit, I just had to press them in BEFORE putting on the removable inner Cs :homer::laughing:.

The wife actually pointed it out to me last night. I'm a dumbass. So now I've got all the bearings in and super dooper steering bind axles installed. What could possibly go wrong?
Click to expand...


Remove the bearings and they won't bind bad enough to break. I don't run those bearings in any of my rigs and I'm getting 60*+ steering.
 
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