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Auxiliary lift pump for burning oil in diesel truck.

IowaOffRoad

King shit of turd island
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I've got a 1998 Dodge 2500, 12v Cummins, 5 speed.

I'm cheap.

I don't like unreliable things.

I've got a bunch of new prototype oil I was given that I want to burn in it.

Anybody have any experience running a FASS lift pump or something else with used/new oil to take some of the load off the factory lift pump (I replaced the original one with a new Cummins lift pump after the parts store replacement failed in 1000 miles) when burning oil in place of diesel? Once I burn through this new oil I may filter and blend some used oil 50/50 with diesel to run through it.
 
why? the factory pump dont give a shit. I run oil in mine and never had an issue.
 
I ran used oil in my 24v for a year or so. It made a ton of carbon buildup on the injector tips.

Even in waste oil heaters they require cleaning every season or so.

As far as FASS, fuck them.

Their expensive $$ pump in my truck shit the bed in under 5k miles. Motor locked up.
They wouldn't honor the warranty because it hadn't been bought from an "authorized" dealer. Came from a local diesel shop and was installed by them. The shop even called in it and was told tough shit.

I ordered a motor and replaced it. Worked ok for a few months but now is making noise that's easily heard. WWWRRRRRRRRwwwwwrrrrrrrWWWWWWWRRRRRRRwwwwwrrrrr.
Truck maybe has 3000 miles on that motor.

Weird thing too is the truck ran with the pump locked up. Was just getting low fuel pressure codes when working the engine hard. 08 Dodge 5500
 
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I've got a 1998 Dodge 2500, 12v Cummins, 5 speed.

I'm cheap.

I don't like unreliable things.

I've got a bunch of new prototype oil I was given that I want to burn in it.

Anybody have any experience running a FASS lift pump or something else with used/new oil to take some of the load off the factory lift pump (I replaced the original one with a new Cummins lift pump after the parts store replacement failed in 1000 miles) when burning oil in place of diesel? Once I burn through this new oil I may filter and blend some used oil 50/50 with diesel to run througradually.
Do some some math and see how many gallons of diesel you could buy with the money spent on your aux pump and whatever else.

I ran waste oil for a bit, it was really not worth the hassle unless you got nothing but time and an unlimited supply. Or a truck you don't care about enough to just dump it straight in the tank.

I'd rather build a waste oil shop heater.
 
I wouldnt run waste oil in any common rail diesel. New, clean oil little bits in a time mixed into a non emissions equipped common rail i would and have done with my 06 duramax. Im talking maybe a gallon of 2 stroke oil or ATF to a tank of fuel. Lift pump or not it isnt going to be an issue at levels like this. I wouldnt do this with a DPF equipped truck.

My old 6.2l diesel in my cucv k5 runs on 50% or so waste oil in the summer. It runs on a factory style mechanical lift pump, dmax fuel filter setup and does ok other than increased smoke, down on power, and harder to start when cold. Good way to get arid of the oil i get from customer cars and save a little on fuel in this old turd. Yeah yeah its probably hard on the high pressure pump and injectors but injectors are cheap and easy on these and i will roll the dice for what ive got into this thing.
 
I'm running new, free, prototype oil (viscosities between 5w-50 and 0w-12). Not used. My reasoning behind an auxiliary is to reduce the demand on the factory lift pump due to the difference in viscosity. At current prices a FASS or Airdog is worth about 200 gallons of fuel. I have triple that in prototype oil to burn if I'd like, and may have more soon. As my situation is uncommon, I threw out a question to those who'd run used oil as that's the typical way that most run a diesel on something other than diesel and figured that group would have insight on this.

Carry on.
 
I'm cheap too, gravity filtered used oil thru a 1micron sock filter. Wouldn't think new oil would require much in the way of filtering to invest in anything fancy. No idea on the lift pump...
 
I ran a $75 in line pump from napa on my idi that worked well for oil. Lifetime warranty and easy to replace. I've still got one in a box just for random use, draining a tank, etc.
 
You don't need a lift pump, just mix it up to 50/50 in the summer.

Start at 33% and see how it likes it.

I'd never fill it all the way up, but leave 5 gallons space, and keep a 5 gal can of diesel in the bed in case you got too greedy with your mix.


It does seem that you're in the free oil business, and live in a cold winter state, finding a way to heat your house/ shop might be the better move

*have run 50/50 clean oil in a 12v

*am a cheap ass

*kinda don't want to have to deal with a carboned up engine

*have a 12v and a supply of waste engine oil

*4.25 gallon diesel fuel is somewhat reasonable for a working guy without the time to create engine issues, $7gal and its on like donkey Kong :laughing:
 
I'm running new, free, prototype oil (viscosities between 5w-50 and 0w-12). Not used. My reasoning behind an auxiliary is to reduce the demand on the factory lift pump due to the difference in viscosity. At current prices a FASS or Airdog is worth about 200 gallons of fuel. I have triple that in prototype oil to burn if I'd like, and may have more soon. As my situation is uncommon, I threw out a question to those who'd run used oil as that's the typical way that most run a diesel on something other than diesel and figured that group would have insight on this.

Carry on.

Like others said, I'd just mix it about 50/50 with diesel.
 
Got a little carried away. Running 2:1 ratio oil:diesel. Engine doesn’t care, starts a little better. Butt dyno says it’s more responsive.
 
Sell it to me for half diesel price wherever your at and ill just dump a jug straight in my tank whenever I think about it. I wouldnt do anything fancy at all if its new thinish oil. I dump everything that resembles gas, diesel, or oil straight in my tank and have never had an issue.
 
Sell it to me for half diesel price wherever your at and ill just dump a jug straight in my tank whenever I think about it. I wouldnt do anything fancy at all if its new thinish oil. I dump everything that resembles gas, diesel, or oil straight in my tank and have never had an issue.
In your 7.3?
 
I ran straight waste oil (with some gas mixed in). Used motor oil, gear oil, ATF, hydraulic oil, anything “oil” (except veg oil) through my 97 12v for few years, back then when it was >$5/gal for diesel.

Factory lift pump never caused me problem. In fact, it outlived the motor… Block was bad via cylinder walls tapered, several broken piston rings and a melted piston. The cause was from carbon build up.
 
Yep, any random old quart of oil, gas thats been sitting in a can to long, 5 gallons of old kerosene for free at a garage sale, ect... all right in the tank. I have no real routine with changing fuel filters but probably every 3 years or 30k ish.
In your 7.3?
 
Yep, any random old quart of oil, gas thats been sitting in a can to long, 5 gallons of old kerosene for free at a garage sale, ect... all right in the tank. I have no real routine with changing fuel filters but probably every 3 years or 30k ish.
No injector problems?
 
I ran straight waste oil (with some gas mixed in). Used motor oil, gear oil, ATF, hydraulic oil, anything “oil” (except veg oil) through my 97 12v for few years, back then when it was >$5/gal for diesel.

Factory lift pump never caused me problem. In fact, it outlived the motor… Block was bad via cylinder walls tapered, several broken piston rings and a melted piston. The cause was from carbon build up.

Do you think that running waste oil contributed to your engine failure?
 
Do you think that running waste oil contributed to your engine failure?
Yes. Running on waste oil contributed to my engine’s failure. (Even though it still ran and drove into garage).

  • Increased wear via tapered cylinder walls and piston rings.
    • Decent sized ridges at top.
  • Carbon build up in piston ring landings.
    • Most likely what caused broken rings. A piston or 2 was found its rings nearly entirely missing. Melted off below piston ring landing on that one.
 
Yes. Running on waste oil contributed to my engine’s failure. (Even though it still ran and drove into garage).

  • Increased wear via tapered cylinder walls and piston rings.
    • Decent sized ridges at top.
  • Carbon build up in piston ring landings.
    • Most likely what caused broken rings. A piston or 2 was found its rings nearly entirely missing. Melted off below piston ring landing on that one.

So....... was it worth it? :flipoff2:

Seems like everything, being cheap gets really expensive.

It's one thing to do like 2bb and dump stuff here and there, but 100% waste oil seems like a bad idea on an engine you care about. Save it for the old idi Ford and gm or Mercedes.
 
So....... was it worth it? :flipoff2:

Seems like everything, being cheap gets really expensive.

It's one thing to do like 2bb and dump stuff here and there, but 100% waste oil seems like a bad idea on an engine you care about. Save it for the old idi Ford and gm or Mercedes.
$$$ saved on fuel at the time is enormous. More than enough to buy at least 1 complete and running donor to take its engine.
 
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