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Atlas sealing woes

Mr Stubs

Taste my rainbow, bitches
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
101
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Land of liquid sunshine
I have been fighting my Atlas bottom cover for quite some time now. I just can’t seem to get it to quit leaking.

First two shots at sealing it up was with red RVT. That didn’t work for shit. Next up was the aerobic sealer, as used factory. Still leaking.


Plan now is to use “Right Stuff”.

I think part of the problem is the smooth aluminum to aluminum mating surfaces. Anyone think that Right Stuff won’t work because of this?
 
AA sent a paper gasket for that cover in the "input swap" kit I just did. Can't say if it sealed, since it hasn't ran yet, but maybe that the ticket.

Right stuff has got to work though. The only downside is that it will be a bitch to get that cover off in the future.
 
When you seal OEM transfer case halves, they tell you to rtv the halves together but not to torque the screws down. Let it sit til the rtv cures (i always wait over night) and then go back and torque them. Seems to work, ive done a few BW1356s that way and never had one leak.
 
I would right stuff it and pretend I never have to take it apart again. Thats all I use these days.
 
My Atlas II came with a paper gasket that immediately started leaking after it warmed up. I retorqued the bolts, still leaked. I sealed it with Ultra Black RTV after the 500 mile break in fluid change and it hasn't leaked in a year. The surfaces seem to be machined very well so it doesn't take very much sealant to get a good seal.
 
When you seal OEM transfer case halves, they tell you to rtv the halves together but not to torque the screws down. Let it sit til the rtv cures (i always wait over night) and then go back and torque them. Seems to work, ive done a few BW1356s that way and never had one leak.

i do this on oil pans and also with problematic diff covers
 
When you seal OEM transfer case halves, they tell you to rtv the halves together but not to torque the screws down. Let it sit til the rtv cures (i always wait over night) and then go back and torque them. Seems to work, ive done a few BW1356s that way and never had one leak.
Ive done prob 300 gm and other alum split cases. Ive always just ultra gray and runner down.

But youll also notice almost all split cases are a rough cut on the mating surfaces. Which maybe part of stubs issue
 
Right Stuff is all that I've been able to get them sealed with.
 
The trick is " ultra" in general. Rtv is slippery and translucent
Ultras are opaque and tacky.

Ive always used ultra gray but choose to your liking.

i use ultra grey on aluminum(like toyota cases) or things i want to come apart easier
 
I think part of the problem is the smooth aluminum to aluminum mating surfaces. Anyone think that Right Stuff won’t work because of this?


Take a little 80 grit and give that surface some tooth for the sealant to grab on. Don't scar the hell out of it, just rough it up a little.

Apply sealant to both sides, let it get tacky, assemble and snug up, let sit another 15 and then torque down.
 
on mine (older) the two bolt holes on the short ends of the bottom inspection plate run into fluid. Make sure to seal those 4 bolts or they will leak. I use the ultra grey on mine because supposedly it holds up to the additives for the synthetic oil.
 
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I have used this stuff for most everything. Only other sealant I might use would be hondabond ht.


As long as its clean when you apply it and it sets up. Oil doesn't bother it.
 
Not sure what this cover looks like but as you sure it’s the cover leaking? I have gotten fooled in the past on where shit was leaking from. Replace a oring nd wtf it’s still leaking. Sure shit it’s leaking from some place higher up :homer:
 
What the figgety fuck? You are better than this man!
 
That shit should not leak with the right stuff on there.
 
Not sure what this cover looks like but as you sure it’s the cover leaking? I have gotten fooled in the past on where shit was leaking from. Replace a oring nd wtf it’s still leaking. Sure shit it’s leaking from some place higher up :homer:
I clean all around the cover and other areas with brake cleaner and then let it sit overnight at least. This always allows me to see where the fresh leak is.
 
Next time around I’m going to try roughing up the mating surface and recheck all of my holes to make 100% sure that they are all blind.
 
Get some of that green gasket material and do the hammer trick to make your own. Will take 2 mins and will solve your issue.
 
Clean both halves, put a thickish film on both halves. Let both sit apart for 10-15 minutes so they skin slightly. Then put them together.
 
Have you tried sticking an O-ring around the perimeter of the raised section?

I'd try that because if it works a spare O-ring is a lot easier to carry than a spare gasket.
 
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