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Asuna Rustrunner

7.5-16 so 31.9 tall and 10 pounds lighter then the 31s i have now.

was already looking at tcase gears. buddy i got the rear 3rd has a doubler set up he can sell me that uses a sami case. not really sure how all that works or if a better option then doing just gears.

Nice, they look heavy, but nice that they aren't.

You don't want the doubler, send it to me :flipoff2:

Biggest downfall to the sidekicks is they use 5.12s for 27" tires, so short of 9" diffs, you're kinda fucked in high range. You can add the 3:1 or 4.24 gears, but then you might get stuck in between gears low is to low and high is useless offroad.

Sami case has 1.4:1 high range with stock gears, and progressively lower high with lower gear sets. That alone will make high range pretty usable. Probably about perfect with the 4.62s. Then you obviously have a bunch of options with low range. I'd bet you aren't going to be doing creepy crawling with those tires. But stock low in the Sami case, with the option to double it may be about perfect.

Bonus is you get rid of the slip yokes on the kick case.

Down side is if the doubler was done right, the little coupler in between the cases can be a problem.
 
have been reading up on getting rid of the slip yoke set up so the sami case doubler helps out with that. buddy runs a shop and has a few doubler kits new in stock.

these are the kits he has, havent looked into them much yet

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other option is i do have a turbo left over from a 1.6 swift gti car that a group of us did up real road kill like :grinpimp:
 
went on a supply run last night before putting it on the trailer, no nuns where killed
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What's everyone's opinions on older CJ D30, drum brakes vs samurai front vs toyota front? I have the CJ d30/D44 in the yard and 34" swampers on 5 bolt rims already.
 
What's everyone's opinions on older CJ D30, drum brakes vs samurai front vs toyota front? I have the CJ d30/D44 in the yard and 34" swampers on 5 bolt rims already.
 
quick teaser from the weekend, will post a full recap of the weekend when i have more time

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Ah, mine was a "2nd gen" so it had a 4 link with a track bar. I thought something looked funny about that "a arm" :homer:

Easy enough fix to just do a 4link with some braced tabs on top of the diff I guess. Even 3/4 hiems will be a huge upgrade.
 
so the main reason for buying this coffin on wheels was there was race put on by a group of friends. is a local mud bogs but a few years ago they built an obstacle course and i raced it before and its always a great time. loaded up and headed out of town friday night and raced saturday and sunday. my group of friends all brought beaters as our real wheelers are broke or getting built ect. there was 2 grand cheorkees, a ford explorer and then the rust runner. buddy in the explorer ran my baby vreads as i didnt find wheels in time. by the second day most rigs where missing bumpers and dented so it turned into bumper cars in the pits and staging area, bumpers on this thing can hand out some body damage :laughing:

i told the girlfriend she could drive and she was all over it so she raced and i rode bitch and fixed it. she did great for never doing anything like this and solid middle of the pack finish. on the first run we lost the pass side rear coil spring and bent the lower control arm. found the spring and put it back in and bent the link sort of straight. put a ratchet strap where the shock is supposed to be and called it fixed. second run the rear upper wishbone link ball joint broke and let the diff move all around. still finished the run and was our fastest run of the weekend. buddy i got the rear 3rd from drove me into town to his shop and we pulled the upper link off the parts tracker he has. had to torch the one bolt and sleeve out, so cut the old bushing out of the damaged arm and used that sleeve. it rained all night so was super slick out on sunday and could not steer or stop and got stuck and hit some trees but finished both our passes. this little pos drove on the trailer and was a blast to beat on all weekend. it did get a few more nick names, so now its the rustrunner, nunrunner, butrunner, bumrunner
 
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every year i have raced this event ive always taken some beauty shots before racing so couldnt skip out on that this year even if it was with this rig

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dog didnt get the memo that is was beauty shots

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love how its same size or smaller then a sxs

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Must have been interesting to be out there with suv's that wiegh almost twice as much. We did a fuck around day with 2 Saturn's and a V8 grand Cherokee I had. Bumper cars in the Saturn's was all good, saturn vs's GC wasn't too fun, well it was for me, because I was driving it :laughing:
 
the sxs loosers didnt want to do the obstacle course, only one did but it was a built 1000 turbo and crazy fast

buddy bought a late 90s jeep grand with the V8 and it was pretty mint and he was talking about maybe winter driving it after the race so we all made sure that wasnt going to happen as we hit every body panel on that thing. the explorer was picked up at the local wrecking yard and was told not to bring it back running and looking the same :dustin:
 
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ok so now that this has survived the first beating its time to fix and wheel while collecting parts to actually do a build. i have a line on a body that is not all rust and will build my own frame. found an explorer 8.8 so need to find a D30 that but have a line on a few. waiting to hear back on the doubler cost as have priced out the 4.24 trail gear kit for the stock tcase so will decide what way to go. probably piss some people off and use more jeep parts like yj rear leaf springs and ditch the stock link set up. other big thing this thing needs is power steering, can get a pump and a box that will bolt in but not sure if that box is going to work when i go solid axle? what is the box to use. astro? toy? or something else?
 
The steering box should work fine for that size tire.

Nothing wrong with leafs, especially on a budget beater.
good to know about the steering box as that makes life easy if can just use that when go solid axle
 
looks like i have found a hp30. that being said ive been looking at gears for this build as i needs some for sure. with covid shortages there is not much out there for 5.13 gears for a 30 that i can get my hand on right now. was thinking of doing 5.13 in the front to match the stock rear diff to save money for now. with not being able to find 5.13s iv been looking at 4.88 for the 30 and 8.8 as would be the next best thing and i can get those. just on the fence about doing diff gears as its the same cost for me to do the diff gears as it would be to do 4.24 gears or a doubler in the tcase and that will get me a lot lower overall then doing just the diffs. the diffs im getting will be 4.10 so would work if i do the tcase gears but would pretty much mean high range would never be used. i have no real plans of driving this build on the street so not sure how much i would miss high range
 
good to know about the steering box as that makes life easy if can just use that when go solid axle

I mean, there are better options, but it's not a bad box. I'm running 32s locked, and even filled the 2/3rds with water last trip. Steered pretty decent, even on dry rock.

Wilson has the same box on his, but with a TC pump, steers 35x12.5s with lots of scrub decent as well.

It's no full hydro, but it's not useless.

Slowpoke has/had? A complete hydro assist kit for pretty cheap.

looks like i have found a hp30. that being said ive been looking at gears for this build as i needs some for sure. with covid shortages there is not much out there for 5.13 gears for a 30 that i can get my hand on right now. was thinking of doing 5.13 in the front to match the stock rear diff to save money for now. with not being able to find 5.13s iv been looking at 4.88 for the 30 and 8.8 as would be the next best thing and i can get those. just on the fence about doing diff gears as its the same cost for me to do the diff gears as it would be to do 4.24 gears or a doubler in the tcase and that will get me a lot lower overall then doing just the diffs. the diffs im getting will be 4.10 so would work if i do the tcase gears but would pretty much mean high range would never be used. i have no real plans of driving this build on the street so not sure how much i would miss high range

4.10s to 4.88s isn't worth it for the money. Although 5.13s isn't a huge jump from 4.88, it's about the minimum I would consider worth it. At least puts you back to stock :laughing:

I'd run the 4.10s for now and do the Sami doubler. Even with stock Sami gears, you'll be at ~5.75 high range. But running around with the Sami case in low and then having the stock case to toggle for crawling would probably work great. Imo, the 4.24s aren't near low enough for rocks, but too low for high speed.
 
forgot about the lower high range in the sami case when doing my math this morning :homer:

think 4.10 with the 1.41 high range would be ok with 33s if i do want to drive from trail to trail in high range
 
Or even in the stock 2.27 would be good for a lot.

I have a 4:1 case in my samurai, with 3.73s and 32s, it's still too low for dirt roads. High range with the ~1.55 is ok, not great. I'd love a ~2.5:1 low.

Doubler with stock gears or 4.xx in the Sami case sounds perfect to me.
 
What's everyone's opinions on older CJ D30, drum brakes vs samurai front vs toyota front? I have the CJ d30/D44 in the yard and 34" swampers on 5 bolt rims already.
I was reading through this and thinking a set of narrow track CJ axles might fit this rig well. They are a popular swap for the flatfender guys. The D30 is already passenger drop, the drum brakes are not a deal breaker though they are not great in mud, they can be swapped out to later disc brakes. We have 72 and 74 CJ-5s in the family with 7:1 first gears and one with a freshly built AMC 360 V8.

Only time the axles have been an issue on 33s is doing dumb stuff like full throttle hopping on one wheel in 1st gear or grenading the entire front housing trying to pull an F-150 out of a lake.
 
Or even in the stock 2.27 would be good for a lot.

I have a 4:1 case in my samurai, with 3.73s and 32s, it's still too low for dirt roads. High range with the ~1.55 is ok, not great. I'd love a ~2.5:1 low.

Doubler with stock gears or 4.xx in the Sami case sounds perfect to me.

trail gear list a 3:1 gear set for the tracker case on the American web site but not the Canadian site, plus cant find much info on that gear set over the 4.26. i do feel like 3:1 would be a better option for the wheeling i do
 
I was reading through this and thinking a set of narrow track CJ axles might fit this rig well. They are a popular swap for the flatfender guys. The D30 is already passenger drop, the drum brakes are not a deal breaker though they are not great in mud, they can be swapped out to later disc brakes. We have 72 and 74 CJ-5s in the family with 7:1 first gears and one with a freshly built AMC 360 V8.

Only time the axles have been an issue on 33s is doing dumb stuff like full throttle hopping on one wheel in 1st gear or grenading the entire front housing trying to pull an F-150 out of a lake.

Narrow track axles would suck. Stock track/kick is ~58" wms, which is 5-8" wider than narrow track.

Otherwise, I don't think they would be bad for a mild rig. I don't think I would search one out though.

Also, kinda funny that the CJ disc kits use track/kick parts.

trail gear list a 3:1 gear set for the tracker case on the American web site but not the Canadian site, plus cant find much info on that gear set over the 4.26. i do feel like 3:1 would be a better option for the wheeling i do

I'd go with trail tough/sumo gears personally.

3:1 gears may be enough.

My samurai is the 1.3, so a little less hp. But I need to be in 1st low to really spin all 4 tires. Looking at the math, you'll be lower in 1st/3:1 than me in 2nd/4.16, so it might work. I'd definitely go run it with the stock case before making the call. You may need just a bit, or go, fuck I need way lower :laughing:
 
Copy that, I'm obviously out of my element wandering into the suzuki section :homer: It just looked so tiny.

They are, but newer stuff uses a wider wms and more back spacing than old school stuff. Makes it a pain to fit bigger tires when you need 2" bs wheels just to keep 33s off the leafs.
 
Oh nice!

He do any other kick doublers? I'd go for a kick to Toyota possibly.

Shifters could use some work though :laughing:
I dont build the doublers I just stock them
Its fairly easy to build a tracker toy doubler using the early toyota 4speed to tcase adapter housing

shifters are up to the buyers to fabricate
 
This is the Toyota parts your looking for
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ok so washed this turd the other day and seen all the damage from the race. rear body is collapsing onto the frame, rear section of the frame is bending down and pulling the body mounts down at the back near the bumper. Pointsnorth is hooking me up with a new body and rolling chassis. so with that i have spent a lot of time thinking about what to do here. original plan was build frame with jeep/ford diffs and put the new to me body on that. after really siting down and pricing the parts and planning it out im leaning towards scaling the build back and being more realistic. now im thinking use the frame and body from Pointsnorth and putting my motor/trans/tcase in it, swapping back to the 5.12 diffs as i found a good front diff. keep the stock ifs but do a strut delete. for the strut delete, just build my own upper arm and mount a baby 6-8" travel coil over where the coil is currently. will stay with 31 street tire and the 32 vtread as that will do every trail around here local other then a few of the hardcore trails and races but thats what my buggy is for.
 
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