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Any benefit to load range G over E on a 3/4 ton?

booger

booger

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I've done a lot of towing but most of it was with a 1 ton DRW. When I got out of the big trailer towing business I got rid of the DRW. Now I have a Dodge 2500 4x4 on 35's. I added air bags to the rear and with my new 5th wheel camper it sits level. The trouble comes during cross winds and I'm trying to figure out how to help the sway situation. BTW the front of my truck does have 3" leveling spacers.

My 35's are load range D, I know it would help to go to E's. But if I have to buy another set of tires and wheels is it worth the trouble of going to G?

I'm looking at this using the 3,6,9 method if you're familiar. In this case that would look like this.

$3 method - Buy a set of load range E's that fit my rims.

$6 method - Buy a set of 19.5s and move over to G's.

$9 method - Buy a DRW axle, a bed, 6 tires and wheels.

I don't want to do all the steps, as that is the $18 method. But I want the family to be able to ride across country in this rig comfortably, maybe I just use the $1 NyQuil method on them and send it. Does anyone tow a 40' Toy hauler with a 3/4 ton that has made some adjustments similar to what I am considering?
 
Be sure to check the actual weight rating of the tires, not just the load range. What I discovered when putting tires on my Dodge is that a 315/75LT17 load range D had the same weight rating as a 35x12.50LT17 load range E, even though they're basically the same size tire. IMO the load range is an antiquated system (it goes back to the number of plies in a bias ply tire); the load index is much better for comparing tires.

Pete
 
Should have put some weights into the original post.

I did weigh truck and trailer with full loads. (maybe not the most load that could be added to the garage of the toy hauler but there was 900 pounds of street bike back there when weighed)

steering axle = 5100
drive axle = 6300
trailer axle = 13260

Trailer is adding 160 pounds to front truck axle and 2960 to rear axle. The tires are rated for 3100 each. With the trailer connected the rear tires are over by 100 pounds combined.
 
pcorssmit said:
Be sure to check the actual weight rating of the tires, not just the load range. What I discovered when putting tires on my Dodge is that a 315/75LT17 load range D had the same weight rating as a 35x12.50LT17 load range E, even though they're basically the same size tire. IMO the load range is an antiquated system (it goes back to the number of plies in a bias ply tire); the load index is much better for comparing tires.

Pete
Click to expand...
x2 ive had D tires that were rated a few hundred more then a buddies E tires, thought it was kinda dumb :laughing:
 
One tire I was quite happy with is a 295/70R17E Toyo MT with a 3970# rating.

I also ran two 19.5's (rear) on a SRW truck before. 245/70R19.5 (33") is easy to match tire sizes with.
 
since as usual i didnt answer your question and just added something of no value i will try again :laughing:

the benefit of an e over a d is you can put more air pressure in the e to reduce tire squirm/sway, they typically have less tread which also helps to reduce squirm/sway so you may actually see some benefit from them
 
I run 315/75R16E Duratracs = 3860#

Been looking at a size up maybe... 37x13.50R17E = 4300#
 
Go G rated if you're running 35s.

My buddy just went through this with his 2500 running a cab over on a flatbed and pulling trailers. The E rated tires had the wieght ratings, but only 65 psi. He went to G rated with 80 psi and it was a huge improvement.

The other option is the 295/70r18s or 285/75r18s with a wieght rating over 4k lbs and 80 psi.

I wouldn't want 19.5s on a pick up personally, unless I was pulling wieght 90%+ of the time. Imo 6500 lbs, is no where near 19.5 territory
 
booger said:
Should have put some weights into the original post.

I did weigh truck and trailer with full loads. (maybe not the most load that could be added to the garage of the toy hauler but there was 900 pounds of street bike back there when weighed)

steering axle = 5100
drive axle = 6300
trailer axle = 13260

Trailer is adding 160 pounds to front truck axle and 2960 to rear axle. The tires are rated for 3100 each. With the trailer connected the rear tires are over by 100 pounds combined.
Click to expand...
I would shoot for something rated for 3500# each at 80PSI, but I wouldn't go much over that unless this is a dedicated towpig or it will beat you up unloaded.

Aaron Z
 
Provience said:
seems like running significantly more tire than the rear axle is rated for leads to worse ride for no gain.

but that's just my .02 and i've never bought anything over an "E" before
Click to expand...
Unless you're already running substantially more weight than the rear axle is rated for. :laughing:
 
So you have 11,400lbs on a 3/4 ton truck with anther 13k behind it with your family in it ? Does your wife and kids know and understand this? Have you explained to your wife your pragmatic 3 6 9 conundrum?
 
ChiScouter said:
So you have 11,400lbs on a 3/4 ton truck with anther 13k behind it with your family in it ? Does your wife and kids know and understand this? Have you explained to your wife your pragmatic 3 6 9 conundrum?
Click to expand...
Fuck back off to Reddit Karen.

Your dumb ass wouldn't be complaining about a 24k combined weight if the badge on the fender started with a 3 even though the frame, axles, brakes, engine, could be the same.
 
What tire size do you have? Tire size usually indicates what route you can go. Like mentioned, some D rated tires are more then E.

Idk if there is a G rated tire without going to 19.5 that requires a ton of expense. Load Range F is becoming popular in the 16-17in rim options. Maybe look at LRF.
 
06h3 said:
What tire size do you have? Tire size usually indicates what route you can go. Like mentioned, some D rated tires are more then E.

Idk if there is a G rated tire without going to 19.5 that requires a ton of expense. Load Range F is becoming popular in the 16-17in rim options. Maybe look at LRF.
Click to expand...

You're right, I meant F as well.

18s seem to have the most options for tow rigs these days.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You're right, I meant F as well.

18s seem to have the most options for tow rigs these days.
Click to expand...
Looking at the options listed here adds to some of the confusion. The 2 I highlighted that are E's have a higher weight rating than the F that would match my current tire size. Anyone know what the 129/126Q represents? How about the 128Q? These are for Nitto Ridge Grappler tires.

I'd guess any of the those would be an improvement over what I have. Mine are Load range D rated for 3100.
 

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booger said:
I've done a lot of towing but most of it was with a 1 ton DRW. When I got out of the big trailer towing business I got rid of the DRW. Now I have a Dodge 2500 4x4 on 35's. I added air bags to the rear and with my new 5th wheel camper it sits level. The trouble comes during cross winds and I'm trying to figure out how to help the sway situation. BTW the front of my truck does have 3" leveling spacers.

My 35's are load range D, I know it would help to go to E's. But if I have to buy another set of tires and wheels is it worth the trouble of going to G?

I'm looking at this using the 3,6,9 method if you're familiar. In this case that would look like this.

$3 method - Buy a set of load range E's that fit my rims.

$6 method - Buy a set of 19.5s and move over to G's.

$9 method - Buy a DRW axle, a bed, 6 tires and wheels.

I don't want to do all the steps, as that is the $18 method. But I want the family to be able to ride across country in this rig comfortably, maybe I just use the $1 NyQuil method on them and send it. Does anyone tow a 40' Toy hauler with a 3/4 ton that has made some adjustments similar to what I am considering?
Click to expand...
:lmao: You're already in the $20 method. A 3/4 ton dodge (guessing diesel) pulling a 40 foot toy hauler will need the transmission replaced within a year or two.
 
booger said:
Looking at the options listed here adds to some of the confusion. The 2 I highlighted that are E's have a higher weight rating than the F that would match my current tire size. Anyone know what the 129/126Q represents? How about the 128Q? These are for Nitto Ridge Grappler tires.

I'd guess any of the those would be an improvement over what I have. Mine are Load range D rated for 3100.
Click to expand...
The number (126, 128, 129) is weight rating, Q is speed rating, the two weight ratings are single/dual tires (ie: weight rating of 129 on a SRW or 126 on a DRW).
Of those, the F rated run appears to be a heavier tire with deeper lugs on the tread.
But I'm not sure how much of the extra weight is due to more tread when new versus heavier sidewalls which would help you with stability when loaded.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
The number (126, 128, 129) is weight rating, Q is speed rating, the two weight ratings are single/dual tires (ie: weight rating of 129 on a SRW or 126 on a DRW).
Of those, the F rated run appears to be a heavier tire with deeper lugs on the tread.
But I'm not sure how much of the extra weight is due to more tread when new versus heavier sidewalls which would help you with stability when loaded.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
What he said is correct.

So far we’re seeing F is used more for Plus size tires. E is more stock size tires
 
That difference is so minimal. The main difference is you can run a bigger floatation size without losing much carrying capacity.
 
booger said:
Looking at the options listed here adds to some of the confusion. The 2 I highlighted that are E's have a higher weight rating than the F that would match my current tire size. Anyone know what the 129/126Q represents? How about the 128Q? These are for Nitto Ridge Grappler tires.

I'd guess any of the those would be an improvement over what I have. Mine are Load range D rated for 3100.
Click to expand...

I don't know, I thought the same thing, usually a wider tire gets you more wieght capacity. Not sure why those 2 sizes have a higher capacity than the F rated 35x12.5, but if I change my wheels, I'll be getting one of those for my F350.

As mentioned, the 129 is the load index. Unlike load range, it directly correlates to the wieght capacity. No matter the size, ply, ect a 129 load index tire will carry the same 4080 lbs (plus or minus a few lbs)
 
ditch the spacer in the front and let the rear mash down to level rather than sitting it way stupid high, add a few leaves into the pack rather than using air bags, additional leaves will stiffen up the main leaf from rocking where the bags just perch the axle atop flappy spring packs

there's good reason lower suspension setups are usually more stable

I wouldn't worry about being overweight on the tires, I'd just run them a few psi higher or a few mph slower than what the weight rating is at. When you do buy tires, just get the heftiest ones you can get that'll fit. Plenty of the 17s and 18s are good for more than 4k per tire now.

ETA: 19.5s implies steel sidewalls
you can not air down a steel sidewall any, running them at 35 when unloaded will shred them
factor that into your calculations when you're deciding, if you're trying to use this truck like a minivan for most of its miles
 
I have an 2005 Dodge 2500 and had a heavy ass cabover.

I put 19.5's on it and it really helped it with the cabover but over time I grew to hate the 19.5's if the truck was empty, it just rode so bad.
The toyo 19.5's I had were terriable in any sort of off road area, from backing up on wet grass to gravel, they sucked.

Are you air bags T'd together? Don't do that if they are.
The big hell wig rear sway bar helped me.
 
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