Another 1st gem - Kernel MusTURD

Since people are telling me how this axle is like 3 dana 70s combined, I figured I'd get an actual wieght. Works out to 470 lbs +/- a few lbs
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Ordered gears, install kit, flange yoke and a 4.10+ carrier.

The carrier has 37 spline side gears, so I'm tempted to bore the spindles for 37 spline axles. The axles them selves aren't very expensive.

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Although, I am not convinced those cheap cut to length axles are any stronger than stock, so the strength gain might be minimal.
 
2 86s said:
Might as well run the stock shafts.
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I could get some higher quality shafts as well. Just feels dumb to have a D80 with only 35 spline shafts :laughing:

What I think I'll do is run the stock ones, and pick up a single $150 cut to length shaft of ebay for a spare. Down the road I'd like to just go 40 spline and ARB, but that's later.

The problem is the trips i do now are long and far away, so an extra $500-800 to minimize the chance of breaking and fucking up an expensive trip, is cheap insurance.
 
That works but I doubt you'll ever need it.
 
2 86s said:
That works but I doubt you'll ever need it.
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Maybe not, but 43 stickies and all the reduction I have, stock shafts will be the weak point for the rear atleast.

I've seen guys wheel axles like this for 10 years with nothing but opening the cover and welding the spiders. I've also seen guys break 35 spline chromos with 37s and a 22r. :laughing:

Also, I tend to over think stuff...... I know, shocker :laughing: but sometimes it pays off.

Like I said, I'll just run them for now. I'm not worried about it until I get a real locker, at that point, I will be one and done.
 
It is relatively cheap insurance and piece of mind:beer:
 
Well I'm an idiot. I decided to check on my r&p order and long story short revolution stopped making dana 80 6.17s despite a ton of websites listing the :homer:

Might have to throw in the towel on these dumb 6.17s.
 
Some dodge guys really like those OEM dana 80's that were rare in the 2nd gen cummins trucks. You might be able to flip it and get closer to your goal of the nice axle you want.
 
Opiebennett said:
Some dodge guys really like those OEM dana 80's that were rare in the 2nd gen cummins trucks. You might be able to flip it and get closer to your goal of the nice axle you want.
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It seemed like that, but I could have bought 3 of them for $900 from the guy I got this from.

I'm fairly committed to the 80 I guess, ordered a carrier, install kit, flange and chromo shafts.

I randomly put in Memphis, TN on fbmp and found a guy selling d80 6.17s. He first told me he didn't have any and thought he had taken all the ads down. Long story short he said they were a cheap China made gear and just didn't like selling them. I told him that it's going behind a 90hp 4cyl, I'm betting it will be fine :laughing:

So I should see them next week.

Edit: turns out it was TTR axle and fab from here. Small world
 
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Everything with this axle is comically yuge.

Coming from Suzukis and Toyotas I won't run anything but a flange on the axle. I ordered a ford D80 flange thinking it probably uses the same pattern as my Ford D60 flange......

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Ya, no. Gold is 32sp atlas/Toyota flange, rusty one is 29 spline D60 flange and the bare steel is obviously the D80 flange :laughing:

For now the plan is to draw up a ~1/2" thick adapter to keep Toyota drive Lines for now. I was hoping to just run through bolts, but I'm not sure that going to work with how big the center of the flange is.

Or swap the Atlas to a 1410 flange or yoke and run a retubed superduty driveshaft.
 
Got the Atlas back together finally.

The Allen on the right is what made this whole thing need a rebuild. Somebody lost the original bolt. Did a shit job cutting another one down, but didn't cut it short enough. It pushed into the thrust washer, which pushed it into the idler gear. Ate the thrust washer up, which eventually ate the needle bearing inside the idler gear. Which also ate up the side of the case.

At least that's my best guess. Either way, I wanted to make sure that didn't happen again. 3/4" Allen with a thick washer worked perfect. Just had to skim a tiny bit off one side.
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Wanted to get it mocked up in the rig but I ended up messing with my septic tank all day. Popped the lid for the first time since we bought it 4 years ago. Tank was over full, which typically means your drain field is bad. Luckily my work has pumper trucks, so I grabbed one and got it pumped down, found out I have a 2 chamber tank, so I dug up the other side. 3' down. Pumped that. Then added some chemical shit a co worker recommended to the drain field. All that running around ate up the whole day though.
 
What’s the tube OD on the 80?

Why not hack the tubes off and run a 9” center? If you blow it then drop a 10” 3rd in?
 
fl0w3n said:
What’s the tube OD on the 80?

Why not hack the tubes off and run a 9” center? If you blow it then drop a 10” 3rd in?
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4" at the diff, then neck down to 3.5" right at the spindle.

9" for 3/4" of clearance? Nah :flipoff2:

If I did a 9" rear, it would be 40 spline and 10" hp. Which is way beyond my budget currently. I'd be more inclined to do a 9" front with 05+ outters, but honestly, I'm leaning towards an 80 center :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
4" at the diff, then neck down to 3.5" right at the spindle.

9" for 3/4" of clearance? Nah :flipoff2:

If I did a 9" rear, it would be 40 spline and 10" hp. Which is way beyond my budget currently. I'd be more inclined to do a 9" front with 05+ outters, but honestly, I'm leaning towards an 80 center :laughing:
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I was more thinking for the gear options you want
 
fl0w3n said:
I was more thinking for the gear options you want
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Ya, 9" is king for gear options. Like 2.00-7.50 :laughing:

As of now, I have the 80 figured out, I think.




As far as today, this truck is just rejecting the Atlas. Went to stab the rear trans and noticed the seal on the back of the front trans was bad. Remembered that I had a new seal stashed. Of course it's the wrong one.

Spent some time trying to figure it out and for some reason the seal size that was in the trans doesn't match any other Toyota trans I can find so no luck at parts stores that are only open on Sunday. I did find a number on it so I'll get it ordered if I can't find it tomorrow.

I switched gears to messing with my rear axle. Made the used bearings into set up bearings by a die grinder flap wheel. Then built a faux yoke by welding a pice of tube to the used pinion nut. Even used the lathe at work to make it true. Saw that trick in an old Karl jantz video I found on YouTube.
 
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Got the shafts today, little more rusty that expected, but should wire wheel off fine. I was nervous about them being the right shafts, but they are. 37 spline, 36.5" long and correct flange pattern.
 
More ebay purchases.....

Found a set of nitro drive flanges for $160 shipped. I may switch to Yukon hubs at some point, but these will work good for now.
 
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