What's new

ANGELOS airboats

I haven't cut back the cover yet, but from the little I could see the original cables were definitely bad. Made some 1g battery cables and replaced and moved the battery switch to a better place. I have some oil lines open so I didn't crank it for long. But it seemed to crank right away, it didn't struggle. The battery might not be charged all the way either. The charge wire wasn't looking to good.
Not a fan of the messy wiring or lack of a fuse block. It's going to get some wiring done sooner rather than later.
 
Was making good progress. I had the hole done, I just wanted to get it like one turn deeper and the cheap amazon tap snapped.. any ideas to remove? It's 1/16 npt. I had it moving back and forth with vise grips, but there's not really enough for it to grab
PXL_20230301_235251754.jpg
 
Im going to try to make a extractor from a socket, then weld a nut. its loose enough i was getting it to go back a forth with vise grips, just theres not enough to grab to get it to cut the chip its stuck on.
And its just behind the jug, so i cant really drill it.
if that doesnt work i might just fill it with jb weld or rtv, and make a plate to go over it while leaving the tap in it.:homer:
I removed a oil servo from when it was a generator, that was connected to those two holes. so I just was trying to cap it off.
 
Anyone know what this is off of? Or how to test it? It's not putting out any power. So idk if it's bad, or just not being told to turn on
PXL_20230302_184339154.jpg
PXL_20230302_184351370.jpg
PXL_20230302_184407267.jpg
 
I didn't want to get to deep into the grass and get stuck. Our group left earlier.
We got stuck earlier in the day on some sticky mud but we were with some people. Got stuck right next to the other guy


 
We got stuck in that mud on the way back
 
I don’t recognize that alternator.

One of the wires on that plug shosuld supply the alternator with voltage. The other should power a alternator light. If it has power on the one side and it’s not making voltage, it’s probably bad.
 
I don’t recognize that alternator.

One of the wires on that plug shosuld supply the alternator with voltage. The other should power a alternator light. If it has power on the one side and it’s not making voltage, it’s probably bad
I found it. It was part of a airtec aircraft to airboat conversation kit. I found a cross reference to a advanced alternator that was just about the same. But the pulley is smaller, I think I should probably find one that's the same sizes as original. The original one wouldn't fit.
 
All the airboat groups call these clunkenentals, say they always sound like a 5 gallons of bolts being shaken and clunking/rattling/nocking noises are normal unless untill they become not normal... So it was kind of hard to get a idea of what's normal. When I bought it it had a very normal, faint clunk In the center port cylinder. Over the past 10 or so hours it's been slowly getting louder when it's cold. It also got worse after pulling a broke down boat back to the ramp, I think I overheated the cylinders slightly.
When I did a oil change I decided it wasn't a normal clunk.

I think continental engineers sat around deciding how to make removing the intake and exhaust the most pain in the ass as they could..

But it's off now.
PXL_20230313_213619357.jpg


Stuck ring, no groves in the wall but it's glazed
 
PXL_20230313_213548641.jpg


PXL_20230313_220511043.jpg



For those intake boots, should I do rubber like what's there? Or silicone intercooler boots?
 
So I think I read with chrome cylinders, don't assemble with oil on the rings. Does that sound right?
On first start up I probably need to rev it up and let it get to temp then cool. Then next time I run it, run it hard?
 
thread hijack
Angeno

I was approached by a 11y/o kid this weekend at his birthday party
kid has gotten his hands on a 5hp horz shaft engine (briggs?)

the kid has a swamp on his property , and wants to make a little air boat

is 5hp even enough to get him moving? and how would you source a prop (R/c?)

kid knows I am at the airport all the time and wants a prop, but I'm not thinking that his little motor is going to swing a normal prop

end hijack
 
I was trying to find a video of this mini one that was for sale but couldn't find it. Found this 7' one though
Screenshot_20230320-200109.png


There's plenty of mini and air johns. You probably need at minimum a 670 predator. Anything less a mud motor is probably better.
My understanding is even with a 670, it's still not fast, running dry or going through thick grass. Those are mostly used by people who spray ponds.
 
So I think I read with chrome cylinders, don't assemble with oil on the rings. Does that sound right?
On first start up I probably need to rev it up and let it get to temp then cool. Then next time I run it, run it hard?
When it come to aircraft engines, I’ve always heard to break in, run hard, but keep it cool. In your case, I’m not sure how you keep it cool. Maybe if you get a cool night. Definitely don’t be towing some one.
 
awesome thanks
I will pass this info along

good kid, he is already rebuilding engines on his own:grinpimp:
If it's not clear water he's probably going to be disappointed. Something like this on a John boat would probably work better for him.

The mud boats can go everywhere a airboat can expect dry ground
 
If it's not clear water he's probably going to be disappointed. Something like this on a John boat would probably work better for him.

The mud boats can go everywhere a airboat can expect dry ground
sent his dad a message to look into those too

they have a swamp, a clear lake within walking distance, and they have river property that they vacation on that also has access to the lake there that it feeds

knowing this kid, the boat will be cut up three or four times before it is done, its will be good for him :grinpimp:
 
Honed the head. Have it just about slapped back together.
That is such a pain in the ass. Everything about this engine is difficult to work on. Having to work around a cage doesn't make it easier either. I was going to reseal the intake on the other side, but I don't think I want to do this again. It looks like the boots on the other side are correct.
Pretty sure one of the cylinders is dripping oil into the intake. That would be intake valve guide right? It doesn't burn that much oil so I'm not to concerned about it.
 
I would assume that engine has valve stem seals (intake & exhaust), which would be the easiest to replace first. You can knurl valve guides, but price for the tools versus a machine shop I don't know.
 
I need to get a video of a 360 from the bank.

So I just went to install a new simrad go7. Dead out of the box...
 
Top Back Refresh