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ANGELOS airboats

ANGELO said:
Just this deck, is costing me about 500 in materials.
But after labor/your time and parts of doing 4-5 stringers, a deck, sand and repaint the entire boat and probably redo the bottom if it didn't have Polly, I don't think 4800 would be that much more and you would get a brand new hull. When I build a bigger boat I'm just going to go new.
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Of course, if you are paying yourself, I agree. (I charge a lot and I’m worth it)
 
Shit. If I could have bought a new boat hull for 4500$, I would have been all over it. That would beat the fuck out of being itchy for a month.
 
bdkw1 said:
Shit. If I could have bought a new boat hull for 4500$, I would have been all over it. That would beat the fuck out of being itchy for a month.
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Exactly. That's why I'm going new for the next one. since I plan on building it, not buying a complete one. When I called for quotes I was thinking 12k for fiberglass and like 20 for aluminum based on what the used ones sell for.
 
ANGELO said:
Exactly. That's why I'm going new for the next one. since I plan on building it, not buying a complete one. When I called for quotes I was thinking 12k for fiberglass and like 20 for aluminum based on what the used ones sell for.
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How is it not cheaper to just start with a cheap non-airboat skiff hull and make it fit your usage at those price points?
 
arse_sidewards said:
How is it not cheaper to just start with a cheap non-airboat skiff hull and make it fit your usage at those price points?
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cant get much cheaper then 4800k for brand new.

Nothing about a carolina skiff type boat is designed to have the rigging mounted to it. They dont have stringers and the bottom wouldn't hold up to the abuse. But mostly these boats have to have a flat bottom because they have to be able to slide to turn. A outboard powered hull has strakes down the bottom, because if they slid they would never actually turn. Plenty of people use big predators on jon boats to make a airboat, but those mostly get used in ponds for spraying.

I found a guy on facebook who makes aluminum hulls from his garage. he uses t6 6061 and .125 on the bottom .90 everywhere else, which looks like the same as the big builders. But he quoted me 7400, the big builder was 12k for the same. The aluminum hulls are stronger, last longer and hold their value better. That might be worth the extra.
 
In the grand scheme resin and glass is cheap and doesn't require any special tooling, If your doing it for fun, a glass boat project isnt all that expensive. The cost is in the labor. Plenty of us tightwads would take on an old project.
 
ANGELO said:
But mostly these boats have to have a flat bottom because they have to be able to slide to turn. A outboard powered hull has strakes down the bottom, because if they slid they would never actually turn.
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That makes perfect sense.
 
It feels super solid. Also have way more storage space now.
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Looks so weird without the rake.
Should have taken it off when I first started, would have made it way easier
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So I bought a quart of hunter green Rust-Oleum when I did the seats. I figured that's exactly what they painted the hull with. It ended up drying a way different green.
I bought a another quart for this deck and it dried the exact same color as the rest of the boat. Is Rust-Oleum usually inconsistent with their colors?
 
Now this one's going to be fun.
Have couple things to touch up of the other one and I'll list it.
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2008 Jimmy white with a continental 0470. It's in very good condition. Last owner garage kept it and was selling due to a back surgery
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ANGELO said:
These are usually up draft with the carb on the bottom. That manifold converts it to a automotive carb. Not sure if there's a benefit or not
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Oh, I know what it's doing. It's just doing it very poorly.
 
Right angle turn at the plenum, runner length and size, transitions. Just about everything necessary to drop fuel out of suspension. A decent intake with a common plenum and fuel injection would do wonders for fuel consumption and power.
 
Ran really good. Way faster and felt better then the other boat. No issues starting dry even with 3 of us.

The hottest I saw on the oil temp gauge was 140. It would drop very quickly when I start to idle. Could the veratherm be stuck or missing? It seems like the cooler is getting constant flow.

I need to replace the actuator for the trim tab, it creeps up.
The oil cap needs a o ring, it leaks. I also didn't put it on tight enough and it fell off and made a mess of oil everywhere.

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Very cool. My airplane project has that same engine. The oil cooler is much larger than the airplane application.
 
Bacho said:
Very cool. My airplane project has that same engine. The oil cooler is much larger than the airplane application.
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From my understanding. isn't the veratherm supposed to block flow to the cooler untill a certain temp so if its operating correctly, shouldn't the size of the oil cooler not effect it that much?

Do you know if there's any way to I'd exactly what model it is, if it's been converted to bigger jugs, or if this was a GPU that's been converted?
So far I'm liking it, it sounds and runs pretty good.
 
It should have a data tag on top of the case, at least the aviation version would.

On closer inspection, in addition to the carburetor. You do not have an aircraft starter or alternator set up. I’m not sure that’s an airplane oil pan either. You could run part numbers on the cylinders to find out if they’ve been oversized.

Edit, looks like you have only a single magneto that’s got to be a GPU engine.

A vernatherm is supposed to bypass the oil around the cooler as required. Below is the aircraft version. Obviously you do not have the aircraft oil cooler, do you think you have this part installed?

94B7D516-6F99-4D61-BA22-2FC7D92D999E.png


Airplane parts for all of the stuff would be very expensive. I understand an overhaul amount of these is currently $30-$40,000. What kind of money are airboats selling for with these engines?
 
Bacho said:
It should have a data tag on top of the case, at least the aviation version would.

On closer inspection, in addition to the carburetor. You do not have an aircraft starter or alternator set up. I’m not sure that’s an airplane oil pan either. You could run part numbers on the cylinders to find out if they’ve been oversized.

A vernatherm is supposed to bypass the oil around the cooler as required. Below is the aircraft version. Obviously you do not have the aircraft oil cooler, do you think you have this part installed?

94B7D516-6F99-4D61-BA22-2FC7D92D999E.png


Airplane parts for all of the stuff would be very expensive. I understand an overhaul amount of these is currently $30-$40,000. What kind of money are airboats selling for with these engines?
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Most ac motors on these boats run automotive starters, alternators, spark plugs, fuel pumps and sometimes not not always the carb. I believe the flywheel also has to be changed. I didn't see a data plate but I'll look again. The cylinders did have numbers on them. Which number on that picture am I loy for? I was going to look for the verathem this weekend to see if it still intact.
220 GPUs are very common in airboats. From my understanding you can put 470 jugs and In take on them, and convert them to dual mags. So once they are converted I'm not sure if you can tell if it's truly aircraft unless it's taken apart.
Any boats that's halfway decent with any engine is 15k or more. There's some listed close to 100k this one was 15,500$
 
#8 is the vernatherm, the more I look at your engine, though it probably can’t have that part on it. It looks like your oil cooler arrangement is entirely different. Given that you have hoses that appear to connect on both sides of the engine.

I think a GPU engine would probably make a better air boat engine. I’m guessing you probably have a heavier engine case overall. Which wouldn’t be a bad thing.

There’s certainly a little bit of performance to be gained from the dual mags. That would be costly, though, if you have to use airplane parts to do it.
 
SomeGuyFromOlympia said:
lets get some go pro runs :smokin:
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I have to travel somewhere to find some shallow water. These don't perform well in deep water. The river near me is still high from the hurricane.
This boat is quick, but it's not fast. They put bigger engines then this on way smaller and lighter boats. The race boats look terrifying to drive easily doing 100+. We are going to the next race. Most of them are only accessable by boat.

 
Bacho said:
#8 is the vernatherm, the more I look at your engine, though it probably can’t have that part on it. It looks like your oil cooler arrangement is entirely different. Given that you have hoses that appear to connect on both sides of the engine.

I think a GPU engine would probably make a better air boat engine. I’m guessing you probably have a heavier engine case overall. Which wouldn’t be a bad thing.

There’s certainly a little bit of performance to be gained from the dual mags. That would be costly, though, if you have to use airplane parts to do it.
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The true aircraft ones are preferred not sure why. I think I read the gpus had weaker internals. But the GPUs are know as the best bang for your buck.
I have the dual mags on it already. I'll take more detailed pictures of the engine.
 
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