What's new
By:
Filters

Angelo's 78 bronco trail truck

picked up a 3018 bigtex 20+5 yesterday for 5800. Trailers basically new, the ramps don't even have any paint chipped off. He bought it for a mud truck then had a kid and sold the truck. It just took to long centering the bronco perfect over the triple axles on the other one. it also ate tires as a tri axle
photo44559.jpg
photo44561.jpg
photo44560.jpg
photo44562.jpg
 
Last edited:
So this coming winter im going to do tha axle swap. ive decided to do it before the engine. Im Still waiting on the heads.
I had some time a couple days ago, so I finished what I started last year. I Cut the rest of the brackets off the front axle and ground it flat.
Today i put it on the new trailer for the first time and brought it to the dump to get weighed. 5300 Overall 2360 Rear and 2940 Front with me in it. My plan is to throw the rear axle in and install the doubler. Then start on the front. I have absolutely no idea what im doing so when the time comes ill be starting a thread. I want to truss the front axle and 3 link it. I want this truck to be able to drive on the street no problem. Probably 37-39 tsl swampers depending on what the final height ends up being. Right now it has 37s.
 
rattle_snake said:
updates???
Click to expand...
Changed my mind again. Engine before axles

I brought the block to the machine shop, they said it was perfect, and prepped it to assemble. I should be getting my heads withing a few weeks. Then I should be set to assemble the engine.
Levigarrett76 said:
Do you have a weight on the gooseneck? Guessing around 4k
Click to expand...
Google says 4780. Bigtex 14gn 20+5
 
Last edited:
Not bad!

Awesome on the engine, Did they end up decking the block any?. That thing going to be a tire shredder

I am about to build my 99 industrial 460 finally and stab in a 78 project I recently picked up. Same as yours, 320 hrs on it
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Not bad!

Awesome on the engine, Did they end up decking the block any?. That thing going to be a tire shredder

I am about to build my 99 industrial 460 finally and stab in a 78 project I recently picked up. Same as yours, 320 hrs on it
Click to expand...
They just shaved it down some to make sure it's flat. I want the compression low enough for regular
 
Progress.
Measured for pushrods, Scotty sent me upgraded pushrods and shims for under the rockers to push the wear pattern towards the center. Slapped that together today, we will see if it's right.:homer:
Put the intake on with rtv, them realized all the studs were missing.... So I torqued it down with just the bolts. Have a bolt kit coming.
Bolted the timing cover down.

Here's the list of what I need to order.

Water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, carb kit,(running the quadrajunk that's on the 351m now, but it's probably going to need to be rejetted.) dip stick and tube (moved to a timing cover dipstick) spark plugs, cap+rotor(bought ppams recurved distributor and it doesn't come with the other half) one piece pan gasket, balancer (pretty sure I've been moving the balancer out of my way for at least a year now, but I must have moved it somewhere out of my way)

Is there anything on that list I should buy with a certain brand or style?
For the balancer it's externally balanced, I still have the weight.

Still need to strip the paint, and paint it.

I ordered a oil pan that was supposed to be rear sump and no dip stick. And it had a dipstick... They won't accept a return... I might just run this pan and plug it off.
PXL_20230404_223704497.MP.jpg


PXL_20230404_224107160.MP.jpg
 
460 in and running now for the axles. At this point I wish I could just do radius arms in the front but the brackets are cut it is what it is. it will be getting a 3 link in the front. I want to attempt to keep it around the same height. There will be a mix of street and off-road driving.
The rear axle is pulled. I had one leaf that's been cracked for a while, and I had a spare leaf pack from a parts truck. But now that the two are side by side, they are different leafs.
So now's a good time to get rid of the blocks.
I currently have 3" blocks+the wedge and a shackle flip. Would 4" deavers be the way to go? I have deaver coils in the front.
I want something soft, but I don't want it to be to sketchy with body roll on the street.
PXL_20240204_223354265.MP.jpg
PXL_20240204_223409324.MP.jpg
PXL_20240204_223401736.MP.jpg
 
Good to get rid of blocks (or lessen them), but no idea what you need for springs. My guess is you still need wedges at a minimum.
 
ANGELO said:
460 in and running now for the axles. At this point I wish I could just do radius arms in the front but the brackets are cut it is what it is.
Click to expand...

No one makes the stock SD axle mounts? Then use something like this, to make relatively cheap Rad Arms?

barnes4wd.com

Ford Superduty Dana 60 Radius Arm Brackets

If you are looking to build a custom suspension for your coil sprung Ford Superduty Dana 60 axle, this is the kit that you need to be able to attach your suspension links to the factory radius arm brackets. This kit includes a pair of radius arm brackets manufactured to accept either a 2 inch...
barnes4wd.com barnes4wd.com

I did 3 link, as I had to with mog rear steer tie rods, but it was a PIA making upper frame mount.
I was very limited on space though, with only 2-4" actual suspension lift, so might be easier for you.
 
all the brackets have already been cut off my axle. so at this point i might as well just do a 3 link. If i didnt cut the brackets off the superduty axle i would go radius arms.
 
If go with a softer spring like deaver plan on a rear traction bar, axle wrap will likely be worse than factory springs that use the bottom overload, even with the blocks gone
 
Levigarrett76 said:
If go with a softer spring like deaver plan on a rear traction bar, axle wrap will likely be worse than factory springs that use the bottom overload, even with the blocks gone
Click to expand...

Regardless I figured I'd needed a traction bar.
I went ahead and ordered the deavers. And the ruff stuff install kit, with the 3/8 plate, new perches and shock mounts.

For the brakes, the 9" has vent that holds the hose block down, and the two brake lines come off of it.
The sterling looks like it has two separate brake lines. Any reason why I can't take the fittings from the 9" and set it up the same way?
I already have a super duty hydro boost, and my plan was to get the super duty master to go with it
 
New axle in. I need to weld everything it's all just in loose. The shackle angle will also need to be adjusted. I'm going to put the tires on to see if the leafs will settle some before I adjust.

Im still not totally sure if I want to install the doubler. I have all the parts, but idk if I really need it.
I think I know the answer, but if I weld the rear axle flanges on at the perfect angle as it is now, if I do a doubler in the future ill have to redo that right?
PXL_20240218_195317867.MP.jpg
PXL_20240218_195312076.jpg
 
Interco has some sxii blems. 37x14.5r17.
I'm just looking at the truck, and I feel I need closer to 39s, but it seems they don't have thet many 39s, it jumps up to 40. But I don't think I want to go that big..
 
ANGELO said:
Im still not totally sure if I want to install the doubler. I have all the parts, but idk if I really need it.
I think I know the answer, but if I weld the rear axle flanges on at the perfect angle as it is now, if I do a doubler in the future ill have to redo that right?
Click to expand...
I don't think you will have to change pinion angle if you add a doubler. Driveline angles are all about the relationship between the crankshaft and pinion angles, and neither of those will change when you add the doubler.
 
72Pstroke said:
I don't think you will have to change pinion angle if you add a doubler. Driveline angles are all about the relationship between the crankshaft and pinion angles, and neither of those will change when you add the doubler.
Click to expand...

But by pushing the output like 6" back won't that make the driveshaft steeper and then I turn need more pinion angle?
 
ANGELO said:
But by pushing the output like 6" back won't that make the driveshaft steeper and then I turn need more pinion angle?
Click to expand...
The shorter shaft will give you more pinion angle, cant remember if you have a CV at t-case or not?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh