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Alexa turn on the air compressor

CarterKraft

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This has been on my "want" list for awhile after I installed a 5hp-80 gal compressor in a loft at my buddies house. The compressor is in a storage space behind an apartment in his shop/party room/office. long story long but it is not possible with any frequency to walk up the stairs, go through the apartment enter the 5' tall door and walk to the back of the storage room and turn on the compressor and open the ball valve.

I used a 24v operated motorized ball valve and a RIB/Functional devices relay to power it from a switch out in the shop floor. No pix of that setup now but I can get some.

I always told him we should replace the lighted 120v toggle switch on the wall with a smart switch so he can set schedules to shut the compressor off every night at a certain time in case it was left on. He's not super saavvy of "Smart" shit so it hasn't happened and he has came into the shop on Monday several times and found he left the compressor on all weekend. We have all been there I think.
I want to move my compressor outside in a shed to free up some floor space and will need the same level of remote control to not inconvience me, I like the idea of "power off" scheduling so it doesn't get left on.

I hacked up a KASA HS103 smart switch to see what was inside, nothing really worth taking it apart I found. A regular HS200 wall switch might have been better to use actually because it has flying leads instead of the receptacle/outlet arrangement. Either way after I opened it up to take a look I broke the contacts off so it was fubar.
No big deal just solder on some flying leads for the input and use a old 120v plug for the output contacts.

Both the HS103 and HS200 are 240v rated but they only switch one leg which is problematic as my compressors motor starter contactor has 240v coil. The Baco motorized valve I bought is a 120v Normally Closed unit but I found in the specs it is good up to 380v AC even though it has a standard 120v plug. So I wired the output of the switch to feed the pressure switch on the compressor and a outlet mounted in the cover of the motor starter. similarly this is where the HS200 Decora switch could be mounted and have a much sleeker finish. Either way this worked fine using some pre-punched knock outs in the cover. Using a 120v outlet for the ball valve and actually having 240v on it is sketchy :shocked:so I made warning labels and warned my 18 year old son to not fuck with that outlet but I will probably epoxy the open outlet so it is non functional.

The little window on the left with button in it allows for "manual" operation of smart switch in the event of internet failure etc.

Obviously this is pretty booty fab, violates many codes and may end up causing me to regret my choices one day but so far it's awesome.
I should buy a 240 plug and receptacle to replace the 120v stuff but I'll be honest that's not likely to happen.
The other side of the tee that is plugged will get the original ball valve from the compressor and a single female connector for use in case the ball valve takes a dump.

If anybody needs better picture or documentation on how to do this I will try to help.

HS103 wall plug
HS200 switch
Baco 3/4 Stainless NC 120v valve

1642006170198.png

1642006189588.png

1642007281191.png

 
Last edited:

ChiScouter

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I just ran an extension chord with a light switch on the end of it tied into the pressure switch to control my 5hp compressor
 

woods

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I've got a wireless setup. its the tits. Its 110v and I've got the button sitting on the bench. hit the button, and it kicks on.


61dHHgzEwkS._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

CarterKraft

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I just ran an extension chord tied into the pressure switch to control my 5hp compressor
That would be the simplest way, I even have a inside "pilot light" circuit to turn on a Incandescent bulb while the metal halides got warmed up that I could have used but that is on the opposite end of the shop requiring a lot of wire to be ran.
 

CarterKraft

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I've got a wireless setup. its the tits. Its 110v and I've got the button sitting on the bench. hit the button, and it kicks on.


61dHHgzEwkS._AC_SL1500_.jpg
If it wasn't a 240v 5hp compressor that would work fine, there are a bunch of ways to do it just sharing the easy way for me and to have "Automagic" control over the air line and compressor with nanny supervision to automatically turn off everynight.
That to could be done with a timer, relays all sorts of ways but in '22 the smart switch is too simple.
 

CarterKraft

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That would be the simplest way, I even have a inside "pilot light" circuit to turn on a Incandescent bulb while the metal halides got warmed up that I could have used but that is on the opposite end of the shop requiring a lot of wire to be ran.
I really like the air valve too because it keeps your tank from leaking off and having to refill it every time. (if your system is shit and leaks) I have two reels with sometime leaky swivels.
 

Bggrnchvy

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A WEG 230v 7.5hp mag starter with a 120v coil running off the pressure switch with a smart switch in between not work? $115 out the door and you're done, no booty fab.

I don't understand needing the actuated valve when you already have a switch in the pressure switch circuit. What's the benefit, just system isolation?
 

CarterKraft

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A WEG 230v 7.5hp mag starter with a 120v coil running off the pressure switch with a smart switch in between not work? $115 out the door and you're done, no booty fab.

I don't understand needing the actuated valve when you already have a switch in the pressure switch circuit. What's the benefit, just system isolation?


That's it, the valve just isolates the system plumbing for leak prevention. My unit already has the mag starter but with a 220v coil so i am running the smart switch on that voltage.

If I had a 120v coil and or a neutral in the line I would have just ran it all on 120v but I didn't want to put the neutral on the ground so 220v it is.

My shitty pictures probably over complicate this.

The valve at $75 is the pricey part, if you just installed the smart switch I buy them in packs for around $10 ea, same for wall switches at $11-$12.
 

CarterKraft

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After this is I am ready to run the pex (finally after 15 years haha) for the system.
I need to pour the slab to move it outside but that will probably take another 15 years.
 

CarterKraft

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It's all good until a line or hose blows out while you're out of town and the compressor runs for a week straight. Hypothetically.



Still can't believe it didn't burn up the motor. :laughing:
That is the real story, if its on and pressurized you are asking for trouble IMO.

I don't need a "smart" air compressor but I do need a way to easily turn the air on/off and to shut off the motor on a schedule.

What usually happens is several days after using the compressor I will hear it running when I am going to get in my truck.
By that time it has been on for several days (not continuously) re-charging the tank as needed, even with the correct Mag starter/overload that is one blown hose away from destruction.

My shop is 100' from the house not in a attached garage.
 

billybob_81067

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I put it in the other recent air compressor thread, but I ran a timer switch on my mag starter so that it can only run a maximum of 45 minutes continuous before turning the compressor off and having to reset it to get it to run again. You can adjust the time anywhere from 1 second to 10 days to suit your needs... Should prevent any catastrophic line failure from running your compressor to death.

Gaeyaele GRT8-A2A delay on time relay off Amazon is what I used...

compressor time out circuit.png
 

CarterKraft

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I put it in the other recent air compressor thread, but I ran a timer switch on my mag starter so that it can only run a maximum of 45 minutes continuous before turning the compressor off and having to reset it to get it to run again. You can adjust the time anywhere from 1 second to 10 days to suit your needs... Should prevent any catastrophic line failure from running your compressor to death.

Gaeyaele GRT8-A2A delay on time relay off Amazon is what I used...

compressor time out circuit.png
That's pretty dang smart too. Very easy to implement.
 

RSwenson

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I have my 220V 5 HP compressor on a relay triggered by the overhead light switch.
Auto Drain power is an outlet powered by the same trigger wire.

Shut out the lights when you leave the shop, kills the Power to the compressor.
 

GLTHFJ60

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I'd love to come up with a way to do this for a three phase compressor in a way that would trigger the phase converter to kick on as well. Three pole relay triggered by a wall switch (5 sec delay maybe) and that same wall switch sends a remote signal to the phase converter to turn on.
 

CarterKraft

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I'd love to come up with a way to do this for a three phase compressor in a way that would trigger the phase converter to kick on as well. Three pole relay triggered by a wall switch (5 sec delay maybe) and that same wall switch sends a remote signal to the phase converter to turn on.
Very easy to do with smart home devices.

Get some pix of your Mag starter and we can all argue about the best way to do it.
 

GLTHFJ60

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Very easy to do with smart home devices.

Get some pix of your Mag starter and we can all argue about the best way to do it.

There's no mag starter, doesn't need one.

Current process:
1. Turn on phase converter
2. Flip on 3phase breaker for circuit to compressor
 

bgaidan

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There's no mag starter, doesn't need one.

Current process:
1. Turn on phase converter
2. Flip on 3phase breaker for circuit to compressor

You could probably do it with a couple contactors and a time delay relay or two that trip them.


Contactor 1 starts up the phase converter with no dealy. Contactor 2 starts up the compressor with 5 seconds delay. The same signal source (light switch, timer, smart switch, etc.) could trigger both.


And I guess you don't even need the contactor on the compressor. Just use a time delay relay on the line from the pressure switch.



I'm probably just thinking of the wrong terms for the components, but without a mag starter, how does the pressure switch trigger the motor to start?
 

CarterKraft

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You could probably do it with a couple contactors and a time delay relay or two that trip them.


Contactor 1 starts up the phase converter with no dealy. Contactor 2 starts up the compressor with 5 seconds delay. The same signal source (light switch, timer, smart switch, etc.) could trigger both.


And I guess you don't even need the contactor on the compressor. Just use a time delay relay on the line from the pressure switch.



I'm probably just thinking of the wrong terms for the components, but without a mag starter, how does the pressure switch trigger the motor to start?
Thats the ideal way, one 120v pilot source, distribute it as needed to enable the various components. Can be light switch, remote switch like woods is using or wifi switch.

I am guessing with no mag starter there is no overloads? Pressure switch sees full load of motor?
No nocking it but that isn't the most ideal way to set one up.
 

GLTHFJ60

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Correct, the pressure switch is rated for the amps, so it has the role of switching the motor on and off. Three phase is fed into the switch, and when the pressure is low enough, the switch sends voltage to the motor. That's what it's designed to do. What's not ideal about this method?

Three phase pressure switch I used:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01JS2G...t_i_37SJYYVSAVW46N5P0P1E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Ill have to shop around and see what's available for time delay contactors, and how to remote switch on/off the phase converter. Pretty dang cool idea.
 

bgaidan

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Correct, the pressure switch is rated for the amps, so it has the role of switching the motor on and off. Three phase is fed into the switch, and when the pressure is low enough, the switch sends voltage to the motor. That's what it's designed to do. What's not ideal about this method?

Three phase pressure switch I used:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01JS2G...t_i_37SJYYVSAVW46N5P0P1E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Ill have to shop around and see what's available for time delay contactors, and how to remote switch on/off the phase converter. Pretty dang cool idea.
Weird. I don't think I've ever seen the pressure switch taking the full load outside of the little oiless compressors. Even the big 7.5 hp 3P IR's that I picked up a while back had contactors. Of course, they were used in tandem at a tire shop and also had a time delay between them so they both wouldn't fire up at the exact same time.
 

aczlan

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Correct, the pressure switch is rated for the amps, so it has the role of switching the motor on and off. Three phase is fed into the switch, and when the pressure is low enough, the switch sends voltage to the motor. That's what it's designed to do. What's not ideal about this method?

Three phase pressure switch I used:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01JS2G...t_i_37SJYYVSAVW46N5P0P1E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Ill have to shop around and see what's available for time delay contactors, and how to remote switch on/off the phase converter. Pretty dang cool idea.
Confused here, looking at: Ingersoll Rand 23474570 Switch I only see 2 pairs of contacts, are you leaving one leg hot all the time, shutting off power to the phase converter, or only using 2 legs of the 3 phase?
1642262229984.png

The description for that pressure switch at: Ingersoll Rand Pressure Switch Kit with Unloader Valve - 23474570 says:
Note that this pressure switch does not include an on/off switch. This switch is only used on IR compressors that included a magnetic motor starter. There is a switch on the motor starter that is used to turn the compressor on and off.

Aaron Z
 

CarterKraft

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Yeah that's not a actual 3 phase switch but they exist.

The problem with running it that way is there is no overload heaters so you are relying on the current rating of the breaker to trip out in the event of part failure.

It will work as you have proved but it's "not ideal" from a process control platform.
It will be hard on the contacts of the switch and the switch will be markedly pricier than the contactor.

This 5hp WEG starter Like the one linked above has all the bits with the adjustable overload "heater". I'm not sure on the coil voltage but I'm sure you can find a 120v if needed.

WEG Magnetic Starter for Electric Motor AIR COMRPESSOR 5HP 3 Phase 208-230V 18 AMP WEG Magnetic Starter for Electric Motor AIR COMRPESSOR 5HP 3 Phase 208-230V 18 AMP: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement


Introduction

Motor starters are one of the major inventions for motor control applications. As the name suggests, a starter is an electrical device which controls the electrical power for starting a motor. These electrical devices are also used for the purpose of stopping, reversing and protecting electric motors. The following are the two major components of a starter:

  1. Contactor: The main function of the contactor is to control the electric current to the motor. A contactor can make or break power to the circuit.
  2. Overload Relay: Overheating and drawing too much current can cause the motor to burn out and become practically useless. Overload relays prevent this from happening and protect the motor from any potential danger.
A starter is an assembly of these two components, which allows it to turn on or off an electric motor or motor controlled electrical equipment. The starter also provides the necessary overload protection to the circuit.
 

bgaidan

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GLTHFJ60

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Why wouldn't the breaker trip before the motor burned up?

I see the heaters being beneficial if it's on a long circuit with a bunch of other machines (larger breaker than the motor amperage) but this is a dedicated circuit with its own breaker sized correctly.

I'm not married to the current setup, but I didn't think I needed the mag starter because of the pressure switch.
 

CarterKraft

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Why wouldn't the breaker trip before the motor burned up?

I see the heaters being beneficial if it's on a long circuit with a bunch of other machines (larger breaker than the motor amperage) but this is a dedicated circuit with its own breaker sized correctly.

I'm not married to the current setup, but I didn't think I needed the mag starter because of the pressure switch.
Because there is no way the breaker is actually sized to the running current of the motor. That's not the purpose of a breaker.
The breaker is to protect the wire not the motor.

The "heater" in the starter can be tuned to within the 1 amp tolerance of the motors running current.
 
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