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Advice on mounting for PSC cylinder 79.Scout II SOA w/ high steer

Winchested

IH Scout SSII
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Member Number
2128
Messages
1,170
Guys looking for some input on how you would mount this new cylinder on this set up.

1979 IH Scout II w/ partsmike gm 1 ton high steer set up.

Ive done some research and noticed some people run the ram mount off the diff cover, some off the axle itself, some off the U bolt plates.

What I am thinking is running the mount off the drivers side U bolt plate in the horizontal plane and to the tie rod in the horizontal plane. (heims flat)

Check out the photos I've added and give me any advice you want to throw at me. This is the first time I've set one up all I Know is you want the ram in line with the tie rod as straight as possible and heims flat for the best movement. (or so I've read via PSC tech articles.)

Thanks.

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I think I would build a kind of truss. Even if it wasn't all that effective as a truss, just a mount off the axle tube, not the u-bolt plate.
 
My old FJ55 has a bracket sticking up off the axle housing for a 60" wide D60 sprung over:
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As you can see above, basically right near the spring perch. This was done by a good reputation'd shop. I prefer it being separate from anything like a spring perch or the diff cover.
 
Right on thanks guys that looks like a good way of doing it.
 
That's what I've come up with. Got lots of 1/4 flat bar laying around to make it out of.

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I did the same as above recently in my cj it’s sprung over.

Nice did you just do two triangle uprights with a 5/8 hole or did you brace between them too?


Those WFO concepts ones look great but, mounts the cylinder heim in the verticle plane and would likely take too long to get shipped from the US.

PSC tech articles state best is to mount both heims flat to get the best push/pull effect.



 
Nice did you just do two triangle uprights with a 5/8 hole or did you brace between them too?


Those WFO concepts ones look great but, mounts the cylinder heim in the verticle plane and would likely take too long to get shipped from the US.

PSC tech articles state best is to mount both heims flat to get the best push/pull effect.




Yep braved in between.
 
I originally had the ram mounted to the axle tube with a 3/4 or so chunk welded to the housing - pieces of it are still there.

The problem I ran into was the oil pan versus the high steer tie-rod, even with the front axle pushed forward 2" on my Scout II.

I wound up moving the tie-rod back to the factory location, leaving the draglink high, and then did the diff cover mount for the ram (aftermarket cover, 3/8" Gr8 studs in the diff) and a Poly clamp on the tie-rod.

Works great, and the 1.5x.250 tie-rod can be bent, but thus far springs back. :D
 
I originally had the ram mounted to the axle tube with a 3/4 or so chunk welded to the housing - pieces of it are still there.

The problem I ran into was the oil pan versus the high steer tie-rod, even with the front axle pushed forward 2" on my Scout II.

I wound up moving the tie-rod back to the factory location, leaving the draglink high, and then did the diff cover mount for the ram (aftermarket cover, 3/8" Gr8 studs in the diff) and a Poly clamp on the tie-rod.

Works great, and the 1.5x.250 tie-rod can be bent, but thus far springs back. :D

I'm spring over. I could see a spring under having clearance issues with the oil pan. But I've got tons of clearance on mine now.
 
I'm spring over. I could see a spring under having clearance issues with the oil pan. But I've got tons of clearance on mine now.

I'm SOA with the front axle pushed forward 2"

But I also cut and plated the firewall so I could stuff the tires - and the tie-rod hit the oil pan if I turned and hit a bump. The arms could have been re-made longer, but then with the leaf springs the draglink gets into the spring when stuffed.

Before I fixed it - you can see the RAM was mounted to the axle tube and one tie-rod hole, with high-steer tie-rod.

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Tie-rod also got into the pitman arm
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Now the tie-rod is in the stock spot, the ram is directly behind it (hard to see in this picture)
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I see your issue, looks like the Dana 60 hi steer arms sit higher and aren't long enough to clear your oil pan. I don't have those issues with the Dana 44 Partsmike high steer.

Here is what I came up with, just need to weld it together.

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This is what I came up with for my CJ with scout axle.

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Here's my mock up, going to burn it in tonight. Seems like it will be perfect. Enough oil pan clearance. However my hydraulic lines will end up at 45 or 90 deg from vertical. I will bleed it with them vertical and then rotate it after.

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Got the sucker installed and it's fucking sweet!

Question however, do I set my steering stops on the axle before the cylinder reaches full stroke or just a tad short of bottoming out?

Seems like the steering box still wants to turn past the ram.

I did one turn at full lock and when came back straight the steering wheel alignment was way off, trying to contemplate how as I'm running GM 1 ton tie rods and drag link and everything is tight and solid.

Was able to just turn full lock the other direction and wheel came back to center.

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