Adding lean-to to a metal sided pole barn?

[bgaidan]

I currently have a pretty good sized carport next to the that came with the property where I store a lot of my lawn/power equipment. I'm not really thrilled with it and would rather have a real lean-to there. What's the proper way to "cut in" and flash/seal supports in this situation?

I'll probably start with it open, but may look in to enclosing or partially enclosing it on 3 sides to help keep down some of the dirt and rain intrusion.

I'd like to go full width - which is probably ~25'+. There's a local place that sells 13' lean-to trusses for $15 apiece. I'm tempted to do that with a center support beam and do 2 13' spans that tie to a continuous slope.


Stupid idea?

I have this on the other side. The closed in part is where I have my office and small clean hobby/work area:

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

I just tried this exact same thing here (Washington)

they told me that in order to do it I had to have it engineered
went to engineer guys
they came back and said that I would have to tear down my building and put up larger poles
I said to pull the plug on the project....I'm not tearing it down

this county is covered with buildings exactly like this

 

[bgaidan]

I just tried this exact same thing here (Washington)

they told me that in order to do it I had to have it engineered
went to engineer guys
they came back and said that I would have to tear down my building and put up larger poles
I said to pull the plug on the project....I'm not tearing it down

this county is covered with buildings exactly like this

I have no plans to permit it or tell the county. They won't catch it until they do their next tax assessment or aerial flyovers...which hopefully won't be for a few years. I'll blame it on the PO at that point. Really all they'll care about is taxing more covered square footage.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I have no plans to permit it or tell the county. They won't catch it until they do their next tax assessment or aerial flyovers...which hopefully won't be for a few years. I'll blame it on the PO at that point. Really all they'll care about is taxing more covered square footage.

Finally something we agree on.

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

I have no plans to permit it or tell the county. They won't catch it until they do their next tax assessment or aerial flyovers...which hopefully won't be for a few years. I'll blame it on the PO at that point. Really all they'll care about is taxing more covered square footage.

this is exactly how mine will be done too

 

[Stuck]

I currently have a pretty good sized carport next to the that came with the property where I store a lot of my lawn/power equipment. I'm not really thrilled with it and would rather have a real lean-to there. What's the proper way to "cut in" and flash/seal supports in this situation?

I'll probably start with it open, but may look in to enclosing or partially enclosing it on 3 sides to help keep down some of the dirt and rain intrusion.

I'd like to go full width - which is probably ~25'+. There's a local place that sells 13' lean-to trusses for $15 apiece. I'm tempted to do that with a center support beam and do 2 13' spans that tie to a continuous slope.


Stupid idea?

I have this on the other side. The closed in part is where I have my office and small clean hobby/work area:

When I added a lean to on my old shop it was right up under the eave. I cut the steel down to just under where the rafters would tie in and added a 2x12 purlin onto the posts to hold my rafters. I used 16' 2x8s (maybe 10s) for the rafters and had them stuck over the out side wall about a foot. It gave me a bit under 14' on the inside with a 4/12 pitch.

Since you dont have an eave youll want to bend some flashing to slide up behind the siding and out over the roofing material. Its still a pretty simple build. It will be a bit different if you use trusses. Id cut the siding out. Sheath it with ply to close it in and run the purlins over the ply. You could leave the siding run purlins under it on the posts where the top and bottom of the trusses will hit. Then block out between the siding ridge and run another board on those to attach the trusses to.

 

[bgaidan]

When I added a lean to on my old shop it was right up under the eave. I cut the steel down to just under where the rafters would tie in and added a 2x12 purlin onto the posts to hold my rafters. I used 16' 2x8s (maybe 10s) for the rafters and had them stuck over the out side wall about a foot. It gave me a bit under 14' on the inside with a 4/12 pitch.

Since you dont have an eave youll want to bend some flashing to slide up behind the siding and out over the roofing material. Its still a pretty simple build. It will be a bit different if you use trusses. Id cut the siding out. Sheath it with ply to close it in and run the purlins over the ply. You could leave the siding run purlins under it on the posts where the top and bottom of the trusses will hit. Then block out between the siding ridge and run another board on those to attach the trusses to.

That makes sense.

I was having trouble picturing how to flash the new roof to the old siding. Wasn't even thinking about cutting in to the existing stuff to tuck underneath it. It'll be a pain but it's obviously the right way to do it. If I went with the trusses, I'd probably just cut the height of the truss out and stick a purlin at the top and bottom.

These are the ones that he has the would work. The other ones are a lot taller at the heal and I don't see a reason to go that high....especially if I do the two span thing, I'll loose a ton of head room on the second span. These wouldn't be as bad, but I'll still loose a good foot of head room. Although if I start the first span a couple feet higher, it'd give me one high bay and the second one could still be ~8'.

 

[Stuck]

In that case cut the siding the height of the truss out. Tuck a purlin up under the old siding above and below the truss as a nailer for the siding and the flashing. If i were doing it that way I would put ply between your nailers to close off the hole and then put your purlin/truss joists (whatever its called) over the ply sheathing. If youre in a snow area or its on the windward side of the building I would use 1' wide flashing and bend it at six inches. Put it in place then rescrew your siding as high on the nailer as you can at least 3" from the bottom.

If your siding is open on the back you could slide the purlins in behind the siding and block between the siding ridges on the outside. Then just cut a thin slot to slide your flashing up in.

Or take the siding off and do it that way. If mine wasnt at the top thats what I would have done. My roof panels ended up about an inch down from the soffit under the eave.

 

[Clemson13]

And then