What's new
By:
Filters

A question about iron worker size/tonnage, what is to small?

LCexplorer

LCexplorer

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2022
Member Number
5785
Messages
27
Well I have been keeping my eye out for a 40 or 50 ton iron worker for a little while and not having much luck (seen a lot of beaten up Scotchmans for lotsa $$ locally). Primarily I would like one for punching holes and bending brackets (like trailer spring brackets and such) in 1/4 or 3/8 steel. I always used a 40 ton or bigger in the past and pretty much been told 40 ton would be the minimum size I would want for my own shop.

Recently I have found local to me, a 25 ton Edwards iron worker with hardly any usage with both the punch (with dies) and the little press brake attachment I am looking for for a good price. Will I be setting myself for disappointment with purchasing a 25 ton iron worker? Pretty much looking for anybodies' experience on these small iron workers. Thanks!
 
I had access to a 20t and the holes size to lbs/t for 1/4 was about 5/8" max.

Read the chart and think about the size of materials yould be working with.
 
My budget is like 6K and I am out on Vancouver area. The Edwards 25 ton is local and they are asking 3K for it hence the appeal for me to go look at it.

Not much serial production at all just lots of one offs. My press is only 20 ton harbor freight special, so I would have to upgrade their as well if I wanted to have a c-frame punches and bending dies as well. Probably for about the same money ( a decent 50 ton press usually run 1 to 1.5 K out here)
 
I think I just paid 7k for the jet 45t ironworker.It is made by Edward's in the USA. Edwards is currently making more attachments for the jet.They tell me they are making a coping notcher and a 12in press brake.So far I'm pleased with the unit.
 
C frame stuff won't be as user friendly for regular auto / garage fab.

Ironworker press brakes are meh. A kit for your shop press is more useful. Having the tooling is a plus, but i wouldn't put to much decision weight on it.

Your on the wrong coast for me to find one, but the budget should get something decent.

Also the answer to all what ironworker should I buy questions and threads is always Buffalo 2 1/2. :flipoff2:
 
arse_sidewards said:
How much serial production are you really doing?

It it's not that much consider bending dies and C-frame punches for your hydraulic press.
Click to expand...

Dethmachinefab said:
C frame stuff won't be as user friendly for regular auto / garage fab.

Ironworker press brakes are meh. A kit for your shop press is more useful. Having the tooling is a plus, but i wouldn't put to much decision weight on it.

Your on the wrong coast for me to find one, but the budget should get something decent.

Also the answer to all what ironworker should I buy questions and threads is always Buffalo 2 1/2. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...


The above is something I'll parrot on as well. Since you are just doing one offs, and like was mentioned, ironworker press brakes are kinda clunky and hard to tune.

I have a 50T press I picked up at an auction. I rebuilt the cylinder with better packings and then installed a single acting cheap-o import 10ksi pump (and used the correct high pressure fittings and had a shop make a high pressure hose made for it). I also set it up with a quick connect that allows me to run my Hose Crimper on the single acting pump too.

The swag press brake setup with some custom bottom dies works great.

20230717_182654.jpg


I also collect the UniPunch frames and then install a different size die in each one. This way you can just grab a frame that is already loaded and punch out the hole without having to fiddle with changing out tooling. I had American Punch and Die grind me some punches with a pilot on the end like what a lot of ironworker punches have so I just pierce a pilot with the plasma or with a transfer punch, or whatever. The points are sharp enough that they will pickup on very shallow indents. Its very useful for a small shop I think. Plus the press is still a shop press when it needs to do press things. Even though honestly I usually find myself using my Arbor presses more than this hydraulic one for "press" work.

20230717_182700.jpg


20230717_182717.jpg


20230717_182734.jpg
 
AlxJ64

Derail

I see you have some of the old torchmate hardware running. If that driver dies I've got one on the shelf should you need it. No height controller though, they are all dead by now lol.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
AlxJ64

Derail

I see you have some of the old torchmate hardware running. If that driver dies I've got one on the shelf should you need it. No height controller though, they are all dead by now lol.
Click to expand...
Yes, depending on my finances when this machine croaks... I had told myself that when this one kicks the bucket that I am going to buy anything else other than a Torchmate, after the way Lincoln treated the growth series table owners. However, if I am not financially in the spot to be buying a new table then by all means I'll be trying to keep this one alive as cheaply as I can. Just put new bearings and belts on the Y axis a few months ago.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I would consider the uni punch idea but I have never actually seen one for sale out here, so they are pretty hard to come by. Even a 50 ton press can be hit and miss to buy as they are few and far between, well decent ones that don't have the homemade "janki-ness" made in a barn feel to them. Probably why a beat up Scotchman always gets 4K out here pretty easily. I am frankly surprised to find this 25 ton edwards iron worker locally.
 
look on ebay CH-70 punch

they were really cheap last I looked, but they don't do the bending just the hole punching

ETA: oh whoops guess they're only 35 ton
 
Last edited:
I forgot I made this dumb IG reel back last fall using the setup I posted above.



The capacity of the punch frames vary depending on the model. I have some real monsters floating around the shop that I need to reassemble and grind tooling for. Eventually...

20230502_191111.jpg


20230502_191129.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh