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'94 Pickup Build

Alex123456

Red Skull Member
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May 19, 2020
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Omaha
I'm digging the rebuild so far. Keep the updates coming! :smokin:

Thanks, working on the wiring. Slow going and not much to show.

Outside chance I'll have it running this weekend. Still needs quite a bit before it's usable. Rear brakes, exhaust, front driveshaft needs u-joints, I need to make a rear driveshaft, limit straps in the rear, top of the dash needs finished, other stuff....

 
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Alex123456

Red Skull Member
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Member Number
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199
Location
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I have worked on this much the last few weeks. The wiring is mostly done though. Fuel lines are done. It's about ready to fire up. Starter doesn't crank, I'm sure it's something simple I just need to spend some time looking at it.

I've been messing around with the front fenders, I'm having trouble getting them to look decent. I was thinking I could follow the bend on the front tube work with the fender. It hasn't quite worked out that way and ended up ruining a fender or I might just learn to like them stopping at the shock and leave the front totally open.

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Alex123456

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199
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Starts are runs after a year, even went for a spin around the block. A lot to finish up, but a big step.
 

Alex123456

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199
Location
Omaha
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Wiring is 100% done. Wrapping up a few big things and a lot of small things.

The biggest remaining items are the brake plumbing, rear driveshaft and the exhaust.

Everything else is just details, and there are a lot of those to tidy up. It's like any project, once it becomes functional it's easy to start using it and not finish everything 100%. I'm determined not to do that this time.
 

Alex123456

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This turd is fighting me every step of the way. Having a drivability issue. Troubleshooting one step at a time.
 

Alex123456

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What sort of issues?

I thought it was the MAF, it's not. It'll idle ok in open loop, but not with the MAF plugged in. Loads up and runs rich, eventually fouls the plugs and picks up a miss. It's also idling at like 1700rpm.

I've been making slow progress, I think it is more than one issue.

I found one of the pins pulled out of the harness in the distributor plug, the power wire. This made an improvement, I think more than one pin was loose.

This truck has the stock cast manifold, there is a huge leak where the two cast pieces are bolted together, I have new gaskets to fix that. I think this could be messing with the o2. The upstream o2 is in basically the stock position and is new. The rear o2 is connected to a simulator, there is no cat.

The throttle body was the dirtiest throttle body I've ever seen, cleaned it and the IAC. Made some improvement, but not with the high idle. I have a new IAC i'll put on this weekend.

I'm going to put in an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I'm not sure the stock one is working correctly. Right now I'm trying to find a good diagram of how the fuel supply and return lines are routed around the fuel rail. I'm not sure any of this is right. It was pretty hacked when I got it and I haven't done much except run a new supply and return line.

That's a start anyway :grinpimp:
 

Aisin

Grumpy old fuck
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1,415
Check the ground for the injectors in the harness. Common problem for corrosion.
 

Alex123456

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Joined
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Check the ground for the injectors in the harness. Common problem for corrosion.

I did go through all the grounds, clean and made sure they were tight.

Every single wire is only a few months old, the engine harness is a new ORS harness.

Also have checked any vacuum hoses, replaced or capped as needed.
 

Aisin

Grumpy old fuck
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
304
Messages
1,415
I did go through all the grounds, clean and made sure they were tight.

Every single wire is only a few months old, the engine harness is a new ORS harness.

Also have checked any vacuum hoses, replaced or capped as needed.

Fuck. Completely forgot about the new harness. :homer:
 

94toytruck

Eastcoast crawler
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
472
Messages
72
Location
Eastern Pa
I had a few issue with mine when I first got it going. 1 was the bypass for the AIC wasn't plumbed back into the intake and the other was the aftermarket MAF I bought. Put in a used OEM MAF and all my issue's went away.
 

Alex123456

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Member Number
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I had a few issue with mine when I first got it going. 1 was the bypass for the AIC wasn't plumbed back into the intake and the other was the aftermarket MAF I bought. Put in a used OEM MAF and all my issue's went away.

I had to cut a hole in the trans tunnel, but I got the VSS in. Everything I'd read said it wasn't really necessary, but it seems to have cleared up my drivability issue.

The idle is still insanely high, 2500rpm now. Going the wrong way after the new IAC. I've been researching how to adjust that vacuum actuator that controls idle. I'm going to take the throttle body apart again and mess with that.

Waiting on a few fittings and I'll plumb in the external fuel regulator too.
 
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Alex123456

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
109
Messages
199
Location
Omaha


Cut and painted the fenders, finished the passenger side door.

I have the idle down to manageable but still high. I adjusted the secondary idle screw all the way down, still around 1200 rpm. Otherwise it runs pretty well.

I'm figuring out what to do on top of the dash, I'll probably use that piece of plastic sitting there but cut in a few pieces.

At this point it's ready for a test run.
 

Alex123456

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I didn't work on this the last few months, but it's going wheeling in a few weeks. Still cleaning things up.

Looking for Dodgle/Chevy SRW Dana 60 wheel hubs if anyone has any.

5 studs broken off in mine. Maybe I can get them out but I'd prefer to do it the easy way.

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chaplinfj60

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3057
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145
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marshalltown iowa
very cool, wish i would have saw your front links when i was doing mine love how inboard the lowers are protects the engine. :)
 

Alex123456

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Member Number
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Location
Omaha
Took almost no pictures but did wheel. My expectations for reliability were fairly low, so all in all pretty successful. It ran strong all day long. Everything worked pretty well, there are some bugs to work out.

-Both front fenders blew off, one on the way there one on the way home :laughing:
-Rear shocks need rebuilt or recharged, also needs bump stops
-Fuel cell vent leaked at a certain angle
-MTR's suck in the wet
-power steering pump is noisy asf

That's it for new issues, added to the list of stuff that still needed done.

I had never wheeled anything with an auto, links or full hydro. That was all amazing and just made life easy and comfortable
 

Alex123456

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Joined
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Location
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Another good tuttle run.

Some minor stuff, one of the nylon push lock fittings stripped out of the caliper. Was like a 15 minute fix. And I forgot to turn the fan on once and it got a little hot.

I had put nitrogen in the front bumps and rear shocks before this run, they're all leaking pretty good. Seals are on the way. The rear sits about 3" low, after I re-seal the rear shocks I'm going to try and level it out.

I don't know shit about coilovers, it's all a learning experience from here.
 

94toytruck

Eastcoast crawler
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
472
Messages
72
Location
Eastern Pa
Coil overs are pretty basic. Keep them clean, set IFP(if you have resi) don't mix up the shim stacks. If the IFP seals are blown there may be nitrogen in the main oil chamber which will need to be bled off to remove the seal head.
 

Alex123456

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
109
Messages
199
Location
Omaha
Coil overs are pretty basic. Keep them clean, set IFP(if you have resi) don't mix up the shim stacks. If the IFP seals are blown there may be nitrogen in the main oil chamber which will need to be bled off to remove the seal head.
Thanks, I watched a few videos and I have emulsion coilovers in the rear. I think it'll go ok. The airbumps are apart and seals should be here today.
 

Alex123456

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
109
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199
Location
Omaha
A few updates, swapping out the Dodge wheel hubs for Chevy wheel hubs. There was some real neglect inside the front axle.

Broken bolts, missing seals and bearings. Some people just shouldn't work on shit.

Going 35 spline chromo outers, stock inners, spicer joints, Yukon hubs. Rear axle got chromo shafts.

Spindle studs broken or bent

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Spindle bearing just gone, what was left of the race is whats in there. We were able to get it out by welding it then driving it out. The bore cleaned up pretty good.

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94toytruck

Eastcoast crawler
Joined
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Member Number
472
Messages
72
Location
Eastern Pa
Are those minty fresh GM rotors? My Dodge calipers didn't fit over those with fresh pads. Just giving you a heads up the GM rotor is thicker by a good bit than even the HD Dodge brakes.
 

Alex123456

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
109
Messages
199
Location
Omaha
Are those minty fresh GM rotors? My Dodge calipers didn't fit over those with fresh pads. Just giving you a heads up the GM rotor is thicker by a good bit than even the HD Dodge brakes.
Yeah, they are new GM rotors. I have GM calipers and pads, I just haven't gotten that far yet.

The brake lines from the master cylinder to the front caliper are a disaster, the old calipers are still tied off in the pic, I just haven't gotten that far yet.
 

Alex123456

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
109
Messages
199
Location
Omaha
Black Hills Cruiser Classis this past weekend. Always a great event. We ran Kong, Iceman and Fruity Pebbles. Truck ran good and worked well for the most part. The only issue i had was a blown fuse and I ran out of fuel on a steep climb. The fuel cell sump is forward, I may see if I can flip it around.
 
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