94 Geo Tracker no electrical.....

[Rallye]

Man, do I hate chasing electrical problems.

1994 Tracker (1.6L m/t) has been having intermittent no-start issues, and I've been push-starting it when I need to use it (which is not very much). It will start, then it won't. I changed out the starter, new battery, checked alternator (ok), and fuses seem ok. It now appears that moving wiring under the dash has an effect on electrical - so I'm thinking there's a short somewhere.

No starting at all today, so I spent some time testing out the ignition switch, and I'm thinking it may be dead. 12V power to white/green feed is ok with ign off, but when moving to ACC or start, there's no voltage (technically 2ish if I use the voltmeter). regardless of key position, the black/white (what I assume is the 12V positive to the starter) has no voltage.

crawled underneath the dash to see if I could also bypass the clutch safety switch, but I need kid hands to get up in there and bypass it. Decided to stop effort on that because ign switch seems a little wonky.

Any Sidekick/Tracker folks have a working ignition switch/key combo they're willing to part with in an economical way? If I can get my hands on one, I'm going to do some harness swapping and see if that fixes the problem before I bloody my knuckles trying to get to the clutch switch.

thanks in advance for help.

 

[bad zuki]

Does it sound like its clicking when you turn the key over?

Amazon.com

 

[Bebop]

If the starter solenoid power goes through the ignition switch like it does on the samurais (same year-ish) then your ignition switch is fried.

Just put a new ignition switch and add a relay in order to trigger the starter solenoid for a long term fix.

 

[Rallye]

Does it sound like its clicking when you turn the key over?

Amazon.com

this past weekend, there was nothing - no dash lights, no radio, no relay clicking.

a couple of weeks ago, there was clicking on a dash relay upon key-on. That was before I changed the battery, so I'm thinking that may have been due to low voltage....

 

[Rallye]

If the starter solenoid power goes through the ignition switch like it does on the samurais (same year-ish) then your ignition switch is fried.

Just put a new ignition switch and add a relay in order to trigger the starter solenoid for a long term fix.

that's what I'm arriving at. trying to see if anyone has one that they're willing to part with before I spend almost $200 on a replacement. Another fun fact that seems to be part of the OEM design - bolts that secure the switch to the steering column are break-away, which means original switch will be a PITA to remove. trying not to butcher this vehicle too much, as it will be my daughters DD soon.

 

[FleshEater]

Ugh…I got them. Let me get motivated to tear into one of these columns.

 

[skyhiranger]

that's what I'm arriving at. trying to see if anyone has one that they're willing to part with before I spend almost $200 on a replacement. Another fun fact that seems to be part of the OEM design - bolts that secure the switch to the steering column are break-away, which means original switch will be a PITA to remove. trying not to butcher this vehicle too much, as it will be my daughters DD soon.

Use a hammer and a sharp small chisel on the edge of the round head to get them broke loose. Then use some needle nose pliers to turn them out. I’ve never had much issue with getting them out. Then use regular bolts to bolt the new switch in.

 

[Rallye]

Use a hammer and a sharp small chisel on the edge of the round head to get them broke loose. Then use some needle nose pliers to turn them out. I’ve never had much issue with getting them out. Then use regular bolts to bolt the new switch in.

good advice. I wasn't looking forward to the idea of sparks flying around the interior if I had to notch it with a grinding wheel....

 

[arse_sidewards]

If the starter solenoid power goes through the ignition switch like it does on the samurais (same year-ish) then your ignition switch is fried.

Just put a new ignition switch and add a relay in order to trigger the starter solenoid for a long term fix.

I was just over on Ford Truck Enthusiasts reading a bunch of yokels complain that the fender solenoid is "unnecessary".

 

[Bebop]

that's what I'm arriving at. trying to see if anyone has one that they're willing to part with before I spend almost $200 on a replacement. Another fun fact that seems to be part of the OEM design - bolts that secure the switch to the steering column are break-away, which means original switch will be a PITA to remove. trying not to butcher this vehicle too much, as it will be my daughters DD soon.

I have had good success with using a dremel tool to make a slot in them and use a big ass flat head screwdriver on them.
But again, it was in samurais, with plenty of access. No idea how tight the Trackers are down there.

I was just over on Ford Truck Enthusiasts reading a bunch of yokels complain that the fender solenoid is "unnecessary".

There is a difference between a 30amp bosch style relay for the solenoid trigger wire and the fucking abomination that the Ford solenoid is.

 

[arse_sidewards]

There is a difference between a 30amp bosch style relay for the solenoid trigger wire and the fucking abomination that the Ford solenoid is.

The difference is that the Ford solenoid is massively over-sized for what it has to do and probably won't scoff at 130A.

 

[Bebop]

The difference is that the Ford solenoid is massively over-sized for what it has to do and probably won't scoff at 130A.

You could also use a solenoid rated for 250amp and it would scoff even less.