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9.5 rear options

Provience said:
heck, i'm inclined to agree that the tacoma 8.4 diff would be just dandy and hold up well, in addition to being cheaper and easier to find.

going to an off the shelf 9" chunk is arguably doubling the cost of the entire build for no reason :laughing:

other option would be to hit up craigslist and buy whatever axle from 8.8-14b that you can find "cheap" and have diamond build your housing around that

heck just an 8.8 would probably be more'n enough. you are talking custom shafts regardless.
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I forgot about the almighty 14b, that really should be the only answer to rear axle questions!!
 
Slander said:
Interesting about the tundra 9.5", is it the same diff flange bolt pattern as the cruiser shit?
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My understanding is the Tundra 9.5 is the same as the 200 series 9.5.
 
Provience said:
going to an off the shelf 9" chunk is arguably doubling the cost of the entire build for no reason :laughing:

.
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Have you ever priced 9" stuff? It's very reasonable, a complete, brand new 3rd is $400, r&p can be had for $150, ect. Buying a sought after cruiser rear axle for just the 3rd seems silly.

The only major difference would be if you used all the cruiser outters. I still bet it would be very close in price.
 
Where are you finding a brand new 9" for $400 complete?

I was looking at nodulars for that. Add in gears, all the bearings and whatnot, an ARB and you're basically a wash with what an 9.5 build up would cost from what I can tell.....assuming that I can find a used/damaged 9.5 that needs to a rebuild anyways.

I will be the first to admit that I know little to nothing about 9" and parts vendors. Never needed to look at them. Not a Ford guy, ever.

I don't know how to do gears so that is a labor cost anyway I go.

I did score an 8.4 for free for a core if I go that route so that is still on the table.

Hoping to hear from Brian tonight as he said he can score me a 9.5. I am just not sure that they do ARB's and gears. I will have to wait to hear from him and go from there
 
Probably THE best case you can buy for $430.

https://gearworksinc.com/product/3-250-iron-load-bolt-case/

I got a quote for a complete 5.38/detroit 3rd from yukon, 100% new for $1200 shipped. Housing will be the same or less., shafts will be the same or less. The only difference will come with the outters.

​​​​​​

I like toyota stuff and all, but it's hard to justify when you are starting from scratch. I get it when guys are buying the parts piece by piece.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Have you ever priced 9" stuff? It's very reasonable, a complete, brand new 3rd is $400, r&p can be had for $150, ect. Buying a sought after cruiser rear axle for just the 3rd seems silly.

The only major difference would be if you used all the cruiser outters. I still bet it would be very close in price.
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$550 sounds way cheaper than the last time I looked at 9" stuff. guess it's been a few years, but it seemed like a center chunk was ~$1500+ and "the consensus" was that junkyard ones weren't worth using
 
so i just changed to dana 60s front and rear and went away from toyota, i like the toyota for ease and i knew that stuff. dana 60s are big and heavy but i think parts are more common at everyday parts stores and dam strong. you do pay in weight and a chevy 60 is getting pricey. i also did go 35 spline both axles. i like the idea of a ford 9 inch and some sort of custom housing. build once pay once and be done. and if i recall fords had a shit ton of gear options. maybe not above 5.38 or something. but alot
 
Provience said:
$550 sounds way cheaper than the last time I looked at 9" stuff. guess it's been a few years, but it seemed like a center chunk was ~$1500+ and "the consensus" was that junkyard ones weren't worth using
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Yes, junkyard ones are not worth using unless it's small tires, lightweight and small horsepower. 31 spline max, unless you go weird MW profile stuff.

That Gearworks case that YotaAtie posted is the best bang for the buck case: https://gearworksinc.com/product/3-2...oad-bolt-case/

Figure $1200-2K to fully build a stout 3rd, depending on the parts you want to stuff it with.
 
Just to update this

So I just forked over my arm and leg to Brian at Diamond.

New housing @63", 9.5, 5.29, ARB, RCV, Full Floater with his Ebrake Droter setup and Diamond flanges. Need to source some 05+ Runner brake parts now for it along with SA spindles, IFS hubs, and such.

I will probably make a setup with locking hubs down the road to flat tow it on some shitty tires since I don't have a trailer. We will see

Should be fairly bulletproof for my taste of driving, All Toyota, and not getting into to too many oddball brand parts. Diff being built by Brian a huge plus as well.

Thanks for the advice.
 
Mr Stubs said:
Needs a load bolt.
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Been curious about this. I know you've had good luck with your setup, but others seem to rag on load bolts for crawlers.

How often do you adjust yours? Have you noticed any wear on the ring gear from prolonged contact?
 
Ive only heard that they are really suggested in drag racing setups.

Have to look into this more because I am honestly not all that up to speed on them. Maybe I will mention it to Brian and see what he thinks since this whole thing will basically be his baby.
 
dntsdad said:
Ive only heard that they are really suggested in drag racing setups.

Have to look into this more because I am honestly not all that up to speed on them. Maybe I will mention it to Brian and see what he thinks since this whole thing will basically be his baby.
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It would definitely be worth asking about.
 
Yotota said:
Been curious about this. I know you've had good luck with your setup, but others seem to rag on load bolts for crawlers.

How often do you adjust yours? Have you noticed any wear on the ring gear from prolonged contact?
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I check adjustment every time I remove the third... so not that often.

Of course I notice ring gear wear, where the contact point is. That means it’s doing it’s job.

Why wouldn’t you want a load bolt on a crawler? What is the negative argument!
 
Mr Stubs said:
I check adjustment every time I remove the third... so not that often. I have it set at .003 off contact.

Of course I notice ring gear wear, where the contact point is. That means it’s doing it’s job.

Why wouldn’t you want a load bolt on a crawler? What is the negative argument?
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Mr Stubs said:
I check adjustment every time I remove the third... so not that often.

Of course I notice ring gear wear, where the contact point is. That means it’s doing it’s job.

Why wouldn’t you want a load bolt on a crawler? What is the negative argument!
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I had heard some axle builders claim that once the load bolt makes contact it wears the head down and isn't useful anymore until you adjust it in again. So in a drag car you have one launch per run, then adjust it, then repeat.

BUT... Those guys are trying to sell their axles, so they are biased towards their product.
 
That's a lot of money wasted on 30 spline. With the ARB you could go 35, I'd call Brian again about outer options.
 
Mr Stubs said:
I agree, I was under the assumption that 35 spline shafts would be used.
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You’ve been running yours with minimal issues as far as I know (just that axle shaft iirc). Today would you build a 9.5 or go to 9”?
 
Pretty sure the setup Brian is doing is 30 spline.

I sent an email to make sure now that you guys mentioned it.

I am fine with 30 spline honestly. Can see it ever being an issue for me
 
anyone dropped a FJ80 9.5" diff in a Ford 9" housing? Been looking around a bit and not coming up with much yet.
 
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