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9.5 rear options

dntsdad

dntsdad

Central California
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
47
Messages
1,267
Loc
Central California
Pretty much decided that I am just going to have a Diamond built for my rear.

Since I am going to go custom, I may as well upgrade the diff to the 9.5

FInding one to build may be a challenge. Not sure yet.

What am I looking for as a core to start with as far as donor vehicles that I may get lucky and find being parted out on Craigslist? :rolleyes: I need to be able to get 5.29 and an ARB. Is there a full floater that will take the 5.29/ARB or not worth it and get semi. Internet reading sucks cause I often find conflicting info.

WWID??
 
FZJ80 if you want OEM full float parts, otherwise anything FJ40/45/50/55/60/62/80 depending on which width you want.

But with the way the Land Cruiser market is these days, good luck finding anything getting parted or sold for cheap. I've been sitting on my 9.5" parts for a while and I don't think I could replace them right now for a reasonable cost.

An easy option is to just order a complete diff from a builder and eat the core charge as you won't be sending any core back. Then run aftermarket shafts in the Diamond housing. If you wanted full float you could run something like the Ruffstuff FF Toyota flanges. Or just weld on bearing cup mounts and run semi float.

OR... Since you're going custom anyway, get away from the limited world of the Toyota 9.5" and just go with something more common like a Ford 9" differential.
 
Yotota said:
FZJ80 if you want OEM full float parts, otherwise anything FJ40/45/50/55/60/62/80 depending on which width you want.

But with the way the Land Cruiser market is these days, good luck finding anything getting parted or sold for cheap. I've been sitting on my 9.5" parts for a while and I don't think I could replace them right now for a reasonable cost.

An easy option is to just order a complete diff from a builder and eat the core charge as you won't be sending any core back. Then run aftermarket shafts in the Diamond housing. If you wanted full float you could run something like the Ruffstuff FF Toyota flanges. Or just weld on bearing cup mounts and run semi float.

OR... Since you're going custom anyway, get away from the limited world of the Toyota 9.5" and just go with something more common like a Ford 9" differential.
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I was thinking that same thing just a bit ago. I know even less about Ford shit though. My uncle has a Mustang. That is about all I know. LOL
 
dntsdad said:
I was thinking that same thing just a bit ago. I know even less about Ford shit though. My uncle has a Mustang. That is about all I know. LOL
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The 9" diff itself is probably the most common differential in the aftermarket world, and with an aftermarket third member it's not even a Ford part. Hell, nothing on it would be Ford. It just a Ford design that's tried and true as long as you're not putting tons of power through it to sticky tires or something.

Call some diff builders and chat about what they will cover for their 9" and 9.5" builds, and which diff is right for your rig. At this point the costs should be a wash between the two.
 
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I bought a complete rear axle out of a lx450 when I did the Diamond rear in my mini. I used it for parts and made the axle 61” wide with a centered diff. My only regret was not making it wider, as I now run 1.5” spacers to make everything fit.

Do yourself a favor and get a 1991 or newer differential. The casting is much, much bigger than the early casting.

if your having a hard time finding parts, 2007+ Tundras with the V6 and 4.7 V8 came with a 9.5” rear axle (compared to the 10.5 in the 5.7 trucks). While the splines are different, my understanding is that an ARB will give you the correct axle shaft size.
 
mobil1syn said:
whats the rest of the rig like?
Click to expand...

92 ex cab
going through a revamp

currently has TG axles and lift with elockers
37s
3.4 swap, R150, duals

I have been gathering parts for a couple years and almost ready to start working on it.

4wu front 3 link -- not deicided on rear yet. 3 link homemade, ruff Stuff or 4wu again..........probably 4wu although my recent purchase left a little sour taste for me
40" with Raceline beadlocks.
same motor, trans, transfer combo but newer marlin comp gears and output
front ARB hi pinion
Diamond front +3 per side with custom 300m RCVs

I have a 1st gen runner here that was going to get all this attention but I don't want to go through all the smog stuff again so I am just going to rebuild the 92. Put a shell on it and cut it through 90's style for 4 15" subs!! :homer:

Yeah, I know. Totally unconventional but I want the sleeping, storage, passenger space so it is what it is.

Been reading up on the 9"s a little. Good to know I can get 5.29 gearsets. That is obviously a huge plus since I already have the front diff ready.

Next, is to see how to adapt to a Toyota lug pattern since I already have the wheels.
 
dntsdad said:
92 ex cab
going through a revamp

currently has TG axles and lift with elockers
37s
3.4 swap, R150, duals

I have been gathering parts for a couple years and almost ready to start working on it.

4wu front 3 link -- not deicided on rear yet. 3 link homemade, ruff Stuff or 4wu again..........probably 4wu although my recent purchase left a little sour taste for me
40" with Raceline beadlocks.
same motor, trans, transfer combo but newer marlin comp gears and output
front ARB hi pinion
Diamond front +3 per side with custom 300m RCVs

I have a 1st gen runner here that was going to get all this attention but I don't want to go through all the smog stuff again so I am just going to rebuild the 92. Put a shell on it and cut it through 90's style for 4 15" subs!! :homer:

Yeah, I know. Totally unconventional but I want the sleeping, storage, passenger space so it is what it is.

Been reading up on the 9"s a little. Good to know I can get 5.29 gearsets. That is obviously a huge plus since I already have the front diff ready.

Next, is to see how to adapt to a Toyota lug pattern since I already have the wheels.
Click to expand...

id look heavily at an 8.4 over a 9.5

fulll float is the way to go
 
For the 9.5", you want the rear diff out of the FJ80/LX450.. the diff housing supports MUCH better bearings than the earlier FJ40, 45, 55, 60, and 62. Last time I researched it, the earlier diff housings would not support the better bearings.

If you want full float parts, the 94(??) and up FJ80 are the way to go if you are trying to keep all Toyota. Back in the day, I narrowed one for my FJ55.
 
GRM said:
if your having a hard time finding parts, 2007+ Tundras with the V6 and 4.7 V8 came with a 9.5” rear axle (compared to the 10.5 in the 5.7 trucks). While the splines are different, my understanding is that an ARB will give you the correct axle shaft size.
Click to expand...

This.

FJ## will be too old and shitty or too much because of overland fags. You're changing everything, just get a tundra diff.
 
TRINDU said:
This.

FJ## will be too old and shitty or too much because of overland fags. You're changing everything, just get a tundra diff.
Click to expand...

It just depends. I paid $350 for a set of rust free FZJ80 axles.
 
Aisin said:
It just depends. I paid $350 for a set of rust free FZJ80 axles.
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And I got a FZJ80 for a case of Coors.

I'm talking every day prices, not dick measuring deals. You can walk into into pick-n-pull and grab a tundra 9.5 third for sub $100. Anything land cruiser specific will bring premium in 2021.
 
TRINDU said:
And I got a FZJ80 for a case of Coors.

I'm talking every day prices, not dick measuring deals. You can walk into into pick-n-pull and grab a tundra 9.5 third for sub $100. Anything land cruiser specific will bring premium in 2021.
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Incorrect. Most yards out there won’t sell just the 3rd member. They want you to buy the entire axle.
 
Aisin said:
Incorrect. Most yards out there won’t sell just the 3rd member. They want you to buy the entire axle.
Click to expand...

The two pull it yourself yards here list carriers for $69 plus $20 core.
 
Chkn said:
The two pull it yourself yards here list carriers for $69 plus $20 core.
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Do it then. The yards in Las Vegas will tell you to get fucked if you try to buy just the 3rd. They pull all the axles and put them on racks up front right by the office. I’ve tried a dozen times or so to get elocker 3rds.
 
Aisin said:
Incorrect. Most yards out there won’t sell just the 3rd member. They want you to buy the entire axle.
Click to expand...

*pulls third from a you pull it yard

*walks to counter with third member
*sorry sir. You have to buy the entire axle :homer:

A typical junkyard yes, they only want easy money.

I hate Ford 9", but starting fresh and all new it's worth looking into.
 
TRINDU said:
*pulls third from a you pull it yard

*walks to counter with third member
*sorry sir. You have to buy the entire axle :homer:

A typical junkyard yes, they only want easy money.

I hate Ford 9", but starting fresh and all new it's worth looking into.
Click to expand...

:laughing:You aren’t even pulling the 3rds here. They watch those axles like a pallet of gold.
 
Your not going to pull a third a yard around here that I know anyways.

On the 9.5's......are there FF vs. SF versions? Something in my mind tells me there are but I admit that could be bulllshit and my brain is :homer:
 
dntsdad said:
Your not going to pull a third a yard around here that I know anyways.

On the 9.5's......are there FF vs. SF versions? Something in my mind tells me there are but I admit that could be bulllshit and my brain is :homer:
Click to expand...

Yes. The FZJ80 was full float.

DD915C9F-A7E6-45F9-AA5C-4033B3190DED.jpeg
 
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dntsdad said:
Your not going to pull a third a yard around here that I know anyways.

On the 9.5's......are there FF vs. SF versions? Something in my mind tells me there are but I admit that could be bulllshit and my brain is :homer:
Click to expand...

Yup.
91-92 FJ80 is SF 9.5
93-97 FZJ80 is FF 9.5
 
mobil1syn said:
ARBs need constant checking the locking collar in the 9” application with moderate use.
Click to expand...

There are other 9" selectable locker options that don't have that problem. Gearworks and Atom for sure. Some companies make a reinforces collar for the ARB unit too.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
For the savings you'll have with the 9" you can just get the competition version.
Click to expand...

Never knew about this, it's a damn nice looking piece of hardware.

But it's also the price of a complete, built 9.5" diff with an ARB and Nitro 5.29s shipped to my door.
 
I would try to find an open diff fj80 FF rear axle and run it offset. I have been doing that in my tacoma for a while now and it's smooth up to 80 (I refuse to go faster). I got mine in a yard for like $350. They are hard to find and I highly advise not trying to buy one off ih8mud :laughing:. I stuffed a spartan locker in it and 5.29s and have been loving life ever since. Or I would do what the others have said and go 9" and run an auto locker in it, seriously fuck ARBs.

Interesting about the tundra 9.5", is it the same diff flange bolt pattern as the cruiser shit?
 
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heck, i'm inclined to agree that the tacoma 8.4 diff would be just dandy and hold up well, in addition to being cheaper and easier to find.

going to an off the shelf 9" chunk is arguably doubling the cost of the entire build for no reason :laughing:

other option would be to hit up craigslist and buy whatever axle from 8.8-14b that you can find "cheap" and have diamond build your housing around that

heck just an 8.8 would probably be more'n enough. you are talking custom shafts regardless.
 
9" with a spool or a Detroit. Messing around with oddball toyota parts sound dumb and will likely continue to be an ongoing PITA if you ever need parts later
 
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