bobbywalter
Numbskull Member
actually i stretched another 208....its leaking from a common fail point....so i am about ready to do a doubler.
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88 F-Turd50 IDI Build
- Thread starter Toreadorranger
- Start date
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
Thoughts on solid body mounts? I have left over solid mounts (3" solid aluminum), that I had planned to use on a previous truck. I intend on tieing the cage to the body with dimpled plates. right now I'm getting ready to fix some rust issues on the body and it makes the most sense to remove a portion of the rockers and run some 2x2 square tube I have there instead. so welding that in place of the rockers with frame tie ins is also seeming the most logical.
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
Glad you brought this up.
Does removing rubber/poly/etc, therefore, remove the vibration-isolation aspect of said mounts?
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
Yes it does.
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
AH; Ok.
I've been looking at Solo Motorsports aluminum discs and was wondering that.
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
Their kit is outrageous. I think I paid $50 for 2ft of aluminum stock off of Mcmaster. Center drill them and then buy the grade 8 bolts. You could remake their kit for under $100.
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
I started pulling body mounts. The rear two took me a bit as I didnt realize the top and bottom were a press fit. After about 10 minutes of trying to loosen the lower section off with a socket, I googled it and then just hit the bolt with a hammer and voila they separated. The rear mounts happen to be almost exactly the same height as two of the pucks I had from my old truck. I need to weld in some washers to the crossmember to resize the holes down for the bolts.
I attempted to start the front but noticed a problem.
Driverside: Its hard to remove a body mount bolt if the previous owner has welded his patch panel over the top of it.
This is what it should look like. This side wouldn't come apart with a hammer so Ill need to make up a puller to separate it from the bottom side.
I attempted to start the front but noticed a problem.
Driverside: Its hard to remove a body mount bolt if the previous owner has welded his patch panel over the top of it.
This is what it should look like. This side wouldn't come apart with a hammer so Ill need to make up a puller to separate it from the bottom side.
bobbywalter
Numbskull Member
Solid mounts will destroy the cab sooner then later
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
Im sure they will not do anything great for the longevity of the cab, but I think the benefits outway the negatives. This is a woods truck with some mild roadway travel to get to and from the trail.
I ordered new cab mount panels and started cleaning out rust in preps to put them in. after relooking at the rockers, they are getting cutout and replaced with box, going to end up with a mini boat side. probably have to cut down the door.
bobbywalter
Numbskull Member
Aye...with limited use and beefing up the floor as mentioned I can see it not being a major issue.
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
Started to pull apart the 203 today. Got the shaft out, I need to either source another stock machined shaft or buy an aftermarket one. Anyone have any ideas on where to find a stock shaft and or who machines them anymore? Not sure I want to shell out the $300 on a new shaft.
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
Starting to tackle some rust and going to lose the rockers in the process for some box tube. I roached my last sawzal blade cutting this section and I need to make a steel run for the tube.
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Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
Finished off trimming the rocker. Have to pick up some 2x6 box to go in.
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
My local steel yard is partially shut down do to COVID, so I had to drive half way across the state to hit up the next closest place. They have a surplus barn, but didnt have any 6x2. So I ended up with a few 6ft lengths of 4x2 .188 wall box they had in the cutoffs section. I started to patch up the driverside. I absolutely hate welding sheetmetal, so all those welds got "cleaned" up with a grinder. Im going to run legs to the frame and then tie the cage into the rockers.
While I had the grinder out I opted to cut out a few small sections of the floor that need patching.
While I had the grinder out I opted to cut out a few small sections of the floor that need patching.
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
Started on the passenger side. For some odd reason the driverside body mount is fine and the rocker was toast, and the exact opposite on the passenger side. I'm going to end up putting in an entire patch panel for the passenger body mount. still have more to cut out, this was just my first pass to get it close.
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 8,556
Where did you wind up going for the steel and what did you wind up paying?
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
My normal place is Mid City Steel in Lebanon CT, but the covid has them all screwed up and their surplus section is mostly outside and in rough shape. I drove out to Meriden, CT to Logan Steel. Paid $1.25 a lb for mild steel.
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 8,556
That's not bad. I'm in Holland MA frequently in the summer so it's not a far trip.
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
I haven't done anything on this thing so far this year, between snow, work and sub freezing temperatures the motivation has been low. I did round of the rest of the parts I need to swap in the 3G alternator I picked up, just need it to warm up some.
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
In an effort to actually get on the trail in my own rig for the first time in this decade, I'm concentrating on the F150 I picked up from Arse. It is a much milder build so hopefully it will be going sometime this summer.