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88 F-Turd50 IDI Build

CDA 455 II said:
Thanks for reminding me; I need to do that for mine.

Here's the shackle reversal kit I installed a couple of weeks ago on my '94 Bronco:
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I have a custom bumper mounted shackle setup in the back, I'm doing the front reversal right now. I bought a Sky Offroad setup a couple years back that I haven't put in yet.
 
CDA 455 II said:
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How stable/steady is your axle stand?

I got a engine stand free when I bought a engine hoist a couple days ago.
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Its not bad, it could definitely benefit from a 2nd wheel on the one side instead of the single. I was using scrap and if I had to redo it, I would not use flat plate cut into the V this time around, I would use some big angle iron or section of tube to hold the axle, the flat plate is very pointy and I ended up stabbing my self with it a number of times.
 
Truck looks good dude. Did you build the bracket/mount for your fuel cell? Do you have any pictures of it? I need to figure out something for my tank when I get around to moving into the bed..
 
McBastard79 said:
Truck looks good dude. Did you build the bracket/mount for your fuel cell? Do you have any pictures of it? I need to figure out something for my tank when I get around to moving into the bed..
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The sump style cell makes it kind of a pain. It is definitely not the cleanest or most visually appealing way to mount it, but it was the easiest. I have some 1/8" thick rubber strips that Im going to run under the cell to prevent any chaffing between the mount and tank. I might also add a border on the base that will help keep the tank from moving around any.

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Toreadorranger said:
The sump style cell makes it kind of a pain. It is definitely not the cleanest or most visually appealing way to mount it, but it was the easiest. I have some 1/8" thick rubber strips that Im going to run under the cell to prevent any chaffing between the mount and tank. I might also add a border on the base that will help keep the tank from moving around any.

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Simple and sturdy mount. A border, tabs or 4-5” length flat stock sections welded to the outside. Would mitigate any unwanted movement, at least any side ways movement. I did a rear mount blazer tank on my k10. But the way the truck is going. I have to move the tank into the bed. I plan on tying the tank mount in with the bed cage/shock hoops. Looking at what other dudes have done for their bed mounted tanks definitely give me some ideas. Thanks for the info and picks.
 
Shifters look great.. function smooth...or is it sticky.?. Still have not installed the 205 on mine because it's so fawkin heavy and lost my rebuild kit I ordered ..... Fawk.... 7 or 8 years ago:lmao:


I am snail......
 
bobbywalter said:
Shifters look great.. function smooth...or is it sticky.?. Still have not installed the 205 on mine because it's so fawkin heavy and lost my rebuild kit I ordered ..... Fawk.... 7 or 8 years ago:lmao:


I am snail......
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Dude, rest assured; you are not alone in that club. :laughing:


IIRC; Sceep is the president of the 'builds not finished yet' club. :laughing: :flipoff2:​​​​​​​
 
bobbywalter said:
Shifters look great.. function smooth...or is it sticky.?. Still have not installed the 205 on mine because it's so fawkin heavy and lost my rebuild kit I ordered ..... Fawk.... 7 or 8 years ago:lmao:


I am snail......
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Shifters are pretty smooth. The 205 like most gear cases can be a little temperamental on which output you shift first but that is expected, Im not a huge fan of the bushings that ORD uses to mount their shifters on. There is more "give" then I would like with them. I may swap them out for a sleeve instead, I have a greasable bolt in there now so it wouldnt be too bad.

that reminds me I ordered gasket and seal kits for the 203 and 205, and they still havent shipped. That was over 2 weeks ago. I need to call the company.
 
Sky Offroad RSK got done today. It ended up being way more work then I was expecting. I'm a little disappointed that the hardware pack Sky Offroad supplied was missing some things, I only had half the nuts and washers I needed. Not a huge deal I have plenty of extras laying around, but shame on me for not checking that when I bought it originally. I don't know if its my truck or the kit its self, but the boxes that go on the inside of the frame to support the cross member would not fit. the kits is supposed to be able to be installed with the factory shackle buckets installed. No amount of prying and moving would get them to sit flush like they needed to. I finally said fuck it and got the air hammer and chiseled off the rivets and took them off. The same rivets hold on the body mounts for the radiator support, so the rad support currently has super fancy 2x4 wood mounts till I get those remounted. After I got the shackle mounts off and the boxes in sitting the way they should, I noticed that the boxes sit right where a rivet was. So I'm not sure if my truck is the problem or the boxes from Sky were, but not a big deal got them in. Sky recommends pulling the axle but I didn't really want to do that so like the neanderthal I am, I man handled the axle around to get it all mounted up. Truck came out with a pretty good stance, the rear needs to come up a little or the front down some. While I was moving everything around I noticed that my front packs have 3 leafs in them, I believe all the OBS trucks came with 2. Which leads me to think the 3rd leaf is actually an AAL, which would explain how I fit 38s with no cutting after the D60 swap. So I'm undecided if Ill pull that or build a bastard pack for the rear.

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I have installed a few of these style kits....a few in apt parking lots....no way I could do it in a few hours after work now....hell I would need a whole day to think about it.....then put it off for another week...:laughing:.



Glad to hear the shifters are useable.

When I swapped the 6.5 in, it didn't make enough power to worry about the 208 anymore....but I have needed front dig a few times that cost me big.....but with 128 inch wheel base ... Your gonna have manuevering issues. I am not willing to give up wheelbase...maybe even go a little more. I need the space.



With shackles rear, I needed a high travel slip and was jankin up springs faster....and to run a better softer spring, ride height was past my preference.


Coils have been on my mind.....but replacing my front shackles with slider boxes keeps popping up as a better deal for the space I have to work with....for when or if I finally end up with a later mil spec 6.5 so I can turbo it without fear of block destruction.


Unless I get a new 7.3 first.:grinpimp:
 
bobbywalter said:
I have installed a few of these style kits....a few in apt parking lots....no way I could do it in a few hours after work now....hell I would need a whole day to think about it.....then put it off for another week...:laughing:.



Glad to hear the shifters are useable.

When I swapped the 6.5 in, it didn't make enough power to worry about the 208 anymore....but I have needed front dig a few times that cost me big.....but with 128 inch wheel base ... Your gonna have manuevering issues. I am not willing to give up wheelbase...maybe even go a little more. I need the space.



With shackles rear, I needed a high travel slip and was jankin up springs faster....and to run a better softer spring, ride height was past my preference.


Coils have been on my mind.....but replacing my front shackles with slider boxes keeps popping up as a better deal for the space I have to work with....for when or if I finally end up with a later mil spec 6.5 so I can turbo it without fear of block destruction.


Unless I get a new 7.3 first.:grinpimp:
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I like the stability the longer wheelbase gives. It also allows me to take different lines where we wheel. Most of the people in our club are jeeps or shorter wheelbases. The longer wheelbase will help me not end up in the same holes everyone else makes, when trying to climb obstacles.
 
Toreadorranger said:
I like the stability the longer wheelbase gives. It also allows me to take different lines where we wheel. Most of the people in our club are jeeps or shorter wheelbases. The longer wheelbase will help me not end up in the same holes everyone else makes, when trying to climb obstacles.
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Yup; that's exactly why I lengthened my FSBronco WB 5" when I did the 1ton rear axle swap. :smokin:


That; and towing is helped with a longer WB.
 
I am still waiting on my 203/205 gasket kits, so next thing to tackle is the Inner fenders on the front. I originally trimmed them when I cut the fenders. The fenders still need a bit more trimming on the back end near the doors and my original intent was to keep the inner fenders but they are now in the way near the firewall. I think at this point I'm going to pull them and then decide if I'm going to make some that fit better with the cut fenders or run nothing at all for now. So now I have to figure out what I have to relocate and what I dont need that is in there. I know at minimum Ill have to relocate the vacuum canister on the driverside.
 
I don't have any...it lets the idi,s out mo-bedda.


I had to pull some guys out yesterday....and wish I had some .... I did have some that pinned in...mostly for winter when the idi,s need to stay in and huddle together, but they went MIA when I moved back to Detroit .... Need to hook my snorkel up. The air cleaner opening had some goo directed to it.

I forgot it was open :eek:​​​​​​​....and the tube to the cowl was off.
 
Well it looks like the voltage regulator and the low vacuum warning switch are the only 2 things on the passenger side that I will have to find a home for. I dont know if that sensor actually works. The rear ABS is deleted so the brake light is already on. They dont appear to actually make the sensor anymore anyways so it looks like my best option is to delete the low vacuum warning and jumper it out, then run a vacuum gage in the cab, $18 gets me a JEGS liquid filled 0-30" gage so I might go that route for simplicity.
 
Yanked the inner fenders out today. They were in rough shape and a mouse was starting to use the insulation on the driverside one to build a home in the radiator support, so I'm glad I pulled them.
 
Anyone have any ideas on how to get a doubler out of a truck without a transmission jack and without crushing myself? I believe it weighs about 240lbs. I put the doubler in when the truck was on 38s and no lift installed. so it is quite a bit taller now.
 
This hokey contraption is welded to a spare cup for my floor jack. The 203 rests on the short angle, and the 205 rests on the long angle. That tab sticking up bolts to one of the hangars that attaches to the 205. It actually works really well, i was able to put it in by myself pretty easily.
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I ended up buying universal transmission jack mount. The stub on the bottom didn't fit my jack so I sleeved a piece of tube and did some angle grinder "machining" to fit it. Its a bit wobbly so I'm going to do some more modifications to it and see if I cant take out some of the play.

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Since I have been light on time to get out and work on this thing the past few weeks, I have been brainstorming. Was looking at the front end of the truck. I have a Warn XD9000 to go there. Really what I'm trying to decide is if there is any reason I shouldn't integrate the bumper I'm going to build into the front spring hanger. Is there any benefit to it being a separate piece? It is going to be a simple winch mount between the rails and not much more.
 
Yes...that is a recent pic. I had them reversed, but height and slip travel were too much and I was jankin up springs... so I went forward....
never guessed it would remain that way all this time and not be on coils, but it works good enough. Little rough off road.

I have built and sold 7 or 8 bumpers off of it....the spreader for the shackles is the remnants of a simple bumper I had to do because of a certain leo...and I have a pile of scrap waiting to be the next bumper...
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but i need to do something for the back of the bronco and it needs some cage....so probably not. simple dumb and light. Handful of bolts and all of that shit and front clip is out of the way and that diesel is easy to work on. Getting old so easy....is easy.
 
Pulled the cases out today. Going to reseal, paint and do a general health check. I've never had them open since I bought them so hopefully everything checks out.
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Pulled the cases apart today. The shaft is twisted so I'm going to call jeds this week and see what a billet shaft costs.
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Called Jeds today, they no longer make the Ford doublers, which means he doesnt have any spare shafts. It looks like this one is hollow almost all the way through so I believe it is a stock machined shaft. So I guess Ill reach out to ORD and NWF and see if their billet shafts fill fit.
 
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