What's new
By:
Filters

83 Toyota pickup e-brake cable binding under leaf springs with lift

lagunaMS

lagunaMS

Red Skull Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2020
Member Number
3077
Messages
515
Loc
mississippi
I realize this probably belongs in the newb section but I figured I might get more help here...

Picked up an 83 SR5 long bed the other day. It's 4wd with a 22r and a 5-speed. Forgive me if all that is implied just by it being an 83 SR5. This is my first Toyota

Previous owner installed a 3” rough country lift. When I went to look at it before I bought it he said the e-brake didn’t work. Okay no problem I’m sure it’s easy enough to fix.

I got under it looked at the rear suspension today and noticed the e-brake cable that connects the two levers is routed under the leaf springs and the levers themselves look very close to the leaf springs. The e-brake lever in the cab is hard to pull and of course this is why. So I’m assuming the e-brake doesn’t work because the levers can’t travel far enough to engage it, in addition to the cable being routed shittily.

So what’s the fix here. Did the PO fuck up the install and forget a piece?

IMG_1551.JPG
IMG_1555.JPG
IMG_1553.JPG
IMG_1554.JPG
IMG_1552.JPG
 
I think you could modify the brackets that hold the cable sheaths down. I have just 'strong-armed' the fixtures that are welded to the axle to bend them down slightly. That would probably be the easiest solution to get you back to functionality with those blocks. Alternatively, heat and bend the brackets down slightly. You may have to readjust the cable either way, depending on how far you have to move it. If you move it too far, you will change the geometry slightly and may have difficulty applying fully or getting it to pull off correctly. Unfortunately, the springs are now trying to live in the same plane as the cable was supposed to run. If someone has installed an off the shelf lift kit on here, perhaps there is some other corrective action that the manufacturer takes.

Here in 'road salt' country, we just cut that shit off :grinpimp:. Just stick that thing in first and low range if you're on a grade, or carry a block. If you have periodic vehicle inspection in your state, don' listen to the last two sentences!
 
IowaOffRoad said:
I think you could modify the brackets that hold the cable sheaths down. I have just 'strong-armed' the fixtures that are welded to the axle to bend them down slightly. That would probably be the easiest solution to get you back to functionality with those blocks. Alternatively, heat and bend the brackets down slightly. You may have to readjust the cable either way, depending on how far you have to move it. If you move it too far, you will change the geometry slightly and may have difficulty applying fully or getting it to pull off correctly. Unfortunately, the springs are now trying to live in the same plane as the cable was supposed to run. If someone has installed an off the shelf lift kit on here, perhaps there is some other corrective action that the manufacturer takes.

Here in 'road salt' country, we just cut that shit off :grinpimp:. Just stick that thing in first and low range if you're on a grade, or carry a block. If you have periodic vehicle inspection in your state, don' listen to the last two sentences!
Click to expand...

Had to go back and study the pics after your description but it makes sense now. So without the blocks that cable would normally travel freely on top of the springs right?

I feel like a company that offers a lift kit should have a solution for the e-brake cable too, unless rough country really is as shitty as people say. I've never used any of their stuff til now, the truck came this way so I'm just rocking it as-is.

No salt and no safety inspections in Mississippi so I'm good legally. I keep it in gear when I park it but never thought to put it in low also. Good idea. I just like having the brake as a backup and when I want to park on a hill. I have chocks in the bed so I guess it isn't a huge deal if I can't get it done quickly


Clb said:
Take the ghey azz lift blocks OUT!
Click to expand...

I would like to, but the truck needs to be this high to clear the 33s, and it didn't come with any of the stock stuff. I don't want to spend a bunch of money on it (yet) but will spend a little bit to get some functionality back. I think getting this much lift out of just leaves might be a little pricey. What leaves do you recommend to keep the same height and remove the blocks?
 
Last edited:
Fucking hack. At least turn the fucking shocks the correct side up. Jesus Christ.
 
Aisin said:
Fucking hack. At least turn the fucking shocks the correct side up. Jesus Christ.
Click to expand...

Eh, I wouldn't go that far. Upside down shocks aren't gonna kill me. I just bought the truck 2 days ago. I'll flip them around this weekend
 
The previous owner musta been some kinda fool to accept that garbage.
Axle wrap blocks for the winnnnnn:rainbow:
 
Clb said:
The previous owner musta been some kinda fool to accept that garbage.
Axle wrap blocks for the winnnnnn:rainbow:
Click to expand...

The thing I like about fools is how easily they part with their money, or things that have value. :grinpimp:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Clb
Aisin said:
Fucking hack. At least turn the fucking shocks the correct side up. Jesus Christ.
Click to expand...

https://www.monroe.com.au/trade-corner/tech-info/shock-absorbers/shock-absorber-design.html

This is how Monroe shows the orientation of the shock mounting, as well as all OE applications I'm aware of. I've seen some aftermarket shocks mounted both ways. Do you have more information on his particular brand of shock that is different?

lagunaMS said:
I would like to, but the truck needs to be this high to clear the 33s, and it didn't come with any of the stock stuff. I don't want to spend a bunch of money on it (yet) but will spend a little bit to get some functionality back. I think getting this much lift out of just leaves might be a little pricey. What leaves do you recommend to keep the same height and remove the blocks?
Click to expand...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Comp-3...724360&hash=item44221cc172:g:LZ8AAOSwUTZceCYM

EBay/Amazon new rear lift springs are cheap for full leaf packs. I put the link above. This is for 1 spring with bushings. Keep in mind, an add-a-leaf on busted down old springs 'typically' won't give you the maximum lift they say it will, or won't for very long. Also know that with that lift block, adding an extra leaf where it belongs (above the overload) won't help your current situation, and would be dangerous under it (reasons self-explanatory if you try).

If you want to off-road it with 3-4 inch lift springs, you will want a longer shackle to prevent the ends bending. The stock shackle's pretty short. If it's just a driver, you should be fine.
 
Poor yota
I wonder if the p.o. Was a heep guy?
Them rear leafs look flat , more flat that shot stocker even....
 
Clb said:
The previous owner musta been some kinda fool to accept that garbage.
Axle wrap blocks for the winnnnnn:rainbow:

Poor yota
I wonder if the p.o. Was a heep guy?
Them rear leafs look flat , more flat that shot stocker even....
Click to expand...

I think the guy did it himself. The truck was decent overall but there is this issue and some questionable wiring and he hacked in cd player in the dash. It's in good hands now and I'm loving the truck so far...except the ride quality


IowaOffRoad said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Comp-33...8AAOSwUTZceCYM

EBay/Amazon new rear lift springs are cheap for full leaf packs. I put the link above. This is for 1 spring with bushings. Keep in mind, an add-a-leaf on busted down old springs 'typically' won't give you the maximum lift they say it will, or won't for very long. Also know that with that lift block, adding an extra leaf where it belongs (above the overload) won't help your current situation, and would be dangerous under it (reasons self-explanatory if you try).

If you want to off-road it with 3-4 inch lift springs, you will want a longer shackle to prevent the ends bending. The stock shackle's pretty short. If it's just a driver, you should be fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation and the link to the leaves. I was expecting them to be a lot more so I'll get these ordered soon. I bought the truck mainly to be a fun backup truck for when my Chevy is down for maintenance so I won't be off roading too much with this one just yet. Just plan on driving it and taking it down some woods trails
 
Arickvan said:
step up your ghetto hacks newb!
Click to expand...

Nice extendo brake


IowaOffRoad said:
If you want to off-road it with 3-4 inch lift springs, you will want a longer shackle to prevent the ends bending. The stock shackle's pretty short. If it's just a driver, you should be fine.
Click to expand...

What size shackle for the 3-4" lift springs? I'm looking at the Marlin shackle kit and there's a 5" or 6" option

https://www.marlincrawler.com/suspension/full-kits/shackle-kits

Or is there a better shackle option than that one?
 
Back in the day, there was a kit to extend the arms and raise the cable to go over the leafs for the smaller block lifts, the larger blocks, 4" would allow the cables to run under the springs.
 
NOODLES said:
Back in the day, there was a kit to extend the arms and raise the cable to go over the leafs for the smaller block lifts, the larger blocks, 4" would allow the cables to run under the springs.
Click to expand...

4crawler is who you are thinking about.
 
NOODLES said:
Back in the day, there was a kit to extend the arms and raise the cable to go over the leafs for the smaller block lifts, the larger blocks, 4" would allow the cables to run under the springs.
Click to expand...

Aisin said:
Originally posted by NOODLES View Post
Back in the day, there was a kit to extend the arms and raise the cable to go over the leafs for the smaller block lifts, the larger blocks, 4" would allow the cables to run under the springs.



4crawler is who you are thinking about.
Click to expand...


Thanks, I found those here. These will solve the issue but I do understand the need to remove the blocks and get lift springs instead

https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale...rakeExtensions

E-Brake-Mod.jpg
 
Aisin said:
Fucking hack. At least turn the fucking shocks the correct side up. Jesus Christ.
Click to expand...

I just called rough country to ask this question because there aren’t any install instructions on their site. The guy I talked to said their shocks are designed to have the piston up like they are currently mounted
 
lagunaMS said:
I just called rough country to ask this question because there aren’t any install instructions on their site. The guy I talked to said their shocks are designed to have the piston up like they are currently mounted
Click to expand...

Didn’t realize they were rough ****ry.
 
There is nothing wrong with blocks. If you like the ride, keep them. Make sure your u bolts are torqued properly, and check torque annually. Lift blocks are also used on 48k pound 4x4 fire trucks, on the front.
most people who say "lift blocks are bad" don't know why they are saying it, and can be stuck into the same crowd of people that say "wheel spacers are bad because they come loose"

2 words, torque wrench. :flipoff2:
 
NOODLES said:
There is nothing wrong with blocks. If you like the ride, keep them. Make sure your u bolts are torqued properly, and check torque annually. Lift blocks are also used on 48k pound 4x4 fire trucks, on the front.
most people who say "lift blocks are bad" don't know why they are saying it, and can be stuck into the same crowd of people that say "wheel spacers are bad because they come loose"

2 words, torque wrench. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'm going to keep the blocks for now since you posted about the ebrake lever extensions. I went ahead and ordered those. I'll take the blocks out and switch to a lift spring/shackle a little later. Trying not to get sidetracked on a SAS for my Chevy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh