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83 pickup that went full buggy,

then in july i had the pleasure to meet josh at goat build, work took me there and i asked if he was in the shop one night. so hell yeah that was a awesome night, and honestly i had no idea he was with goat build. i may have been start struck. such a nice dude. and awesome work he is doing there. he game me one of these trick tabs that they make and omg how awesome are they 1/4 20 bolt with nutzert weld on tab..

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i found a use for them, my turbo charge pipe vibrated like crazy so here is the fix

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and now i can support a sticker from goat built.

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this was a simple but awesome little upgrade, i made a cheap chase ligtht panel out of 3/4 trailer lights when the turck is running i have them lights on because it is helpful for the person behind to see where you went in the woods. plus it also gives you a reference at night to see how ruff the trail is. put them on front also.

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Hey, I am also thinking about outfitting my shop with the ability to do dimple dies. Would you care to show your setup and talk about what you like and don't like about it? I find that selecting the right hydraulic "pump" side seems to be all over the place. I want air over hydro, seems like 10 ton is where most people land. Anyway, any insight you have on this would be super appreciated.
 
then in july i had the pleasure to meet josh at goat build, work took me there and i asked if he was in the shop one night. so hell yeah that was a awesome night, and honestly i had no idea he was with goat build. i may have been start struck. such a nice dude. and awesome work he is doing there. he game me one of these trick tabs that they make and omg how awesome are they 1/4 20 bolt with nutzert weld on tab..

1667919046638.png


i found a use for them, my turbo charge pipe vibrated like crazy so here is the fix

1667919128153.png


and now i can support a sticker from goat built.
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this was a simple but awesome little upgrade, i made a cheap chase ligtht panel out of 3/4 trailer lights when the turck is running i have them lights on because it is helpful for the person behind to see where you went in the woods. plus it also gives you a reference at night to see how ruff the trail is. put them on front also.

1667919436872.png


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Sweet idea, I will be adding that to my ever growing list.
 
Hey, I am also thinking about outfitting my shop with the ability to do dimple dies. Would you care to show your setup and talk about what you like and don't like about it? I find that selecting the right hydraulic "pump" side seems to be all over the place. I want air over hydro, seems like 10 ton is where most people land. Anyway, any insight you have on this would be super appreciated.
so i am using the harbor freight 20 ton press with a 20 ton air over hydro pump, works awesome short little vid i made of me doing a taco gusset.



i use this a knock out punch kit, not sure if it is this exact one but very close, this works for most my holes needed for the dimple die to work. so i like it alot.

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and this is my biggest die

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i used a half inch drill bit for these holes and worked better than the punch because its just a bit too thick for the steel. but 1/8 alumn it works fine

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I have seen those GreenLee kits. They seem to be well reviewed and higher on the cost scale.

So you actually adapted the knockout punch into your current press?

I was thinking about getting a knockout punch driver and running it on its own pump.
 
they are higher, i would not buy one, i hade it allready a long time before i got the dies.

once the hole is done all you do is press them together, you could even use a hammer if you wanted too i bet. any press will do. nothing fancy there.

on the internet when you search DIY dimple dies you will find all kinds of ways to make dimple dies out of stuff you may have at home right now. so cool.


so there is also a dies like this that you can use a nut bolt combo to do the pressing, lets say you want to dimple die something that is welded down or too big to fit in the press.

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so before the big trip in oct i found 9 teeth or so on my front diff that had chips, not worries at all, but little things like this helped me decide to go to a 513 or 538 instead of 717, i am sure the 3 rd gear dumping clutch does not help the teeth out so there is that.

but this winter we will be doing these, any preference out there between 4.56 to 5.38? leaning toward 5.13 but open to discussion.

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With the 5.3, th400 and 3.0 atlas, I'm super happy with my 5.13s

Converter is kinda loose and I don't crawl though.
 
good am all,
little update.

old drive train , engine, tcase and tranny are all out, old mounts are almost all cut out. took out entire old dash because it was built around the narrow toyota tranny. silly as it sounds it is nice just setting the entire rig down on the ground to get all the cutting and stuff done. lol


where the battery is currently located it will be removed a goat built fuel cell will go there.

maybe this weekend we may be able to get the engine mounts set and start that process.


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where the battery is currently located it will be removed a goat built fuel cell will go there.

maybe this weekend we may be able to get the engine mounts set and start that process.
 
did a rebuild on the 205 tcase this weekend and mocked up the magnum case. omg such a beast. and its one of them parts that wont ever be seen.



also the input shaft of the magnum is huge compared to the stock one.

also put in upgraded 32 rear output from ORD also.

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i wanted a sight tube but like usual i forgot about doing one till after the case is rebuilt. so tapping a hole was out of the question. then looking at speedometer i thought i could use this for my fill and sight tube. so out came the grinder and welder. and bam... the makings of a sight tube.

here was my general idea
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next i looked around the shop to see what i had. i found a jic 6 weld on bung and cut the one set of threads off the speed O and here we go.
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now i have the adapter to use my speedometer port as my fill port and sight tube.

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using a pair of these


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and this for the fill plug

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No 5.38s for a D70, so that narrows it down. :flipoff2:

If you plan to beat on it, maybe just do the jana76 kit in the front right off the bat?
 
Chappy, when you gonna start the thread “full buggy that’s going ’83 pickup” so you can start closing that thing back in?:laughing:
 
No 5.38s for a D70, so that narrows it down. :flipoff2:

If you plan to beat on it, maybe just do the jana76 kit in the front right off the bat?
i was gonna do 513, and if i start messing up the rear i will build a 14 bolt, and be done. i may look for a 14 bolt this spring and just start stripping it and getting the truss build in preparation
 
little work this weekend,

we test the 5.3 in its new home, and yes of course there will be drama, some bars will need to be relocated,

here are a few pics of it sitting in there still hooked up to hoist. again just wanted to get an idea of how this thing will be. i will be taking off the shocks and putting it on the bumps when i put it back in.

exhaust is anyone's game, i need to get it all together, engine tranny and tcase and some sort of front drive shaft so i can see what i have for room.
and we
put shift kit and new filter in the th350
new low pro oil pan on 5.3
more than anything i have a pretty solid plan on the route forward.

water pump out let maybe an issue and if i push the engine to the driver side then power steering pump will be a issue, but not sure till i get mounted solid.

may need to relocate power steering to pass side top or something. to free up that room, i would like that then it leaves more room for the drive shaft. i dont know yet.

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i have to remove this bar on each side to slide engine back further. again not much progress.

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Goatbuilt makes A TON of high quality brackets to relocate the accessories on your engine, take a look there :


Then contact Wisconsinite if you need any help. He can get you setup.

They also make some that aren't on the website (like the powersteering pump on the passenger head), so don't hesitate to ask.


I've used at least 3 different versions on my personal rig and installed plenty more on other people's, always with great success.
 
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Goatbuilt makes A TON of high quality brackets to relocate the accessories on your engine, take a look there :


Then contact Wisconsinite if you need any help. He can get you setup.

They also make some that aren't on the website (like the powersteering pump on the passenger head, so don't hesitate to ask.


I've used at least 3 different versions on my personal rig and installed plenty more on other people's, always with great success.
hell yeah i will for sure give him a call, and that would free up time and space for sure.

i actually cant wait till i have this sitting on its own mounts so i can see how it all falls into place.

the biggest dread is exhaust. but i cant even worry about that till the engine is on mounts.

and since the RAD is going behind the seats i thought about putting my tranny and power steering coolers in the front where the old RAD used to be. not sure yet...
 
and since the RAD is going behind the seats i thought about putting my tranny and power steering coolers in the front where the old RAD used to be. not sure yet...
That's what I'm doing on mine
 
too cool, i was thinking it was a prefect use of space

and could be conversation piece, "yep them two little radiators cool this fire breathing dragon of a 5.3 with zero problems". hahahaha
 
LS is in on mounts, tranny mount is temp not using but works great to mock everything up . nice point to measure from and level thing up.
exhaust is gonna be a challenge , cant use factory ones at all way to narrow

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