83’ Hoe-Yota (Told my Chica it’s for her) - Build

[JayMcJay]

Tick-tock!!!

 

[BDK]

 

[Diablo169]

Made it on the trail! Just got back from the Rubicon. As always a good time. Definitely not the same wheeling it as my Juggy on 47’s.

I’ll do an update post tomorrow. But truck did great minus the clutch Master Cylinder going out, which lead to no clutch. The L45 and I got very familiar with each other, till the shift lever started spinning, then it started to really suck. I already had a new Master and Slave on order, but they didn’t arrive before the trip.

Zero issues with the steering. Stock pump worked great, plenty of steering power and no over heating. Propane worked great. Never had to swap tanks, so I’m curious how much propane I went through.

Other than that it flops pretty easy. Soup Bowl midnight, after a few fully throttle attempts I tried to go hard to the left and drop in, and it didn’t go as planned. This is my buddy and girlfriend right after he told her she should probably get out and watch. I’m in the pic as well, just stuck in the seatbelt. Yard sale’d all my $hit.

This one sucked as it took out the clean 1/2 door I just installed . Yes, flattest part of the trail, T-Case was bumped into neutral and I couldn’t drive out of it.

 

[Diablo169]

Some updates from before the trip. I barely got any pics. Truck was supposed to be on the trailer the night before for a 7:30am departure. I think we finally left around 11:30.

Welds were still hot on the front light pod tabs, and paint was still wet on the rear bumper Bumper turned out great. I’m not a fan of square tube, but it’s what I had and it held up great and took quite a beating. I’m also glad I got the front Harbor Freight Light Pods installed. While expensive at $104 a piece the worked awesome. I wired them in for high and low beams, and low beams (flood) were almost too bright.

Lots of welding.

I got the Auxbeam installed tied into factory threaded holes. The system works great. I still need to mount the switch panel and add more accessories.

Added some quick tabs for the lights, and they worked perfectly.

Giant pile of removed shit.

Some of the carnage I’m not too happy about.

The door after I kicked it out from the inside. Bent the fender and snapped my 4x4 logo.

So while my steering worked great, I got under it today and found that the center link spun and the jam nuts came loose. Doesn’t seem to have hurt anything, but I need to figure out how to keep that from happening.

 

[FleshEater]

I tacked all my link jamb nuts. Just tack that steering jamb nut and it should be fine.

 

[Diablo169]

I tacked all my link jamb nuts. Just tack that steering jamb nut and it should be fine.

That's what I'm thinking. Thats a lot of weight hanging down on the TRE's, they are bound to come loose. Plus, the fact I put anti seize on them isn't helping (The old ones were almost rusted in place).

At first I was worried the Ram was hitting the oil pan, but there doesn't appear to be any marks. Either way the front needs new bump stops. the current rubber ones are rock solid. I think I'll order some Chevy 1500 ones. Come to think of it the rear doesn't even have bump stops.

I built these for my Toyhauler when I blew out the springs last year. I think I’ll copy them for the Truck.

 

[JayMcJay]

Some updates from before the trip. I barely got any pics. Truck was supposed to be on the trailer the night before for a 7:30am departure. I think we finally left around 11:30.

Welds were still hot on the front light pod tabs, and paint was still wet on the rear bumper Bumper turned out great. I’m not a fan of square tube, but it’s what I had and it held up great and took quite a beating. I’m also glad I got the front Harbor Freight Light Pods installed. While expensive at $104 a piece the worked awesome. I wired them in for high and low beams, and low beams (flood) were almost too bright.

Lots of welding.

I got the Auxbeam installed tied into factory threaded holes. The system works great. I still need to mount the switch panel and add more accessories.

Added some quick tabs for the lights, and they worked perfectly.

Giant pile of removed shit.

Some of the carnage I’m not too happy about.

The door after I kicked it out from the inside. Bent the fender and snapped my 4x4 logo.

So while my steering worked great, I got under it today and found that the center link spun and the jam nuts came loose. Doesn’t seem to have hurt anything, but I need to figure out how to keep that from happening.

I used the wicking threadlocker on my link nuts. But holy crap, it's expensive!
Maybe just shoulda tack'd em!

 

[NorCalJalopy]

If you need some expendable supplies let me know. I got ya covered.

 

[Diablo169]

I used the wicking threadlocker on my link nuts. But holy crap, it's expensive!
Maybe just shoulda tack'd em!

On Amazon it looks like it is $16

If you need some expendable supplies let me know. I got ya covered.

Awesome, I think I'm getting there! Thank you.

 

[JayMcJay]

$16 sounds more like what I'd have been willing to pay.
I just did a quick search on it, and was pretty surprised how expensive it is!

 

[Diablo169]

So, the old Master and Slave decided to start working again, so I'm actually glad because that means it's the Master or Slave and not in the bell housing. So because of this I decided to rebuild the shifter, as it was spinning in circles, and bend the shifter for the crawl box.

This is the $hit show I started with. In reverse the shift lever would push the crawl box into neutral, why I rolled, I swear

The shifter seat was almost non existent, but everything looked good after being cleaned up. New Marlin seat, shift ball end, and boot. Shifter is nice and tight now.

Heated up the crawl box lever and bend it slightly. Flipped it around to the driver side. Now perfectly clears the shift lever in all gears.

Crawl box forward and in low, trans in second.

Crawl box in high, trans in second gear. Looks tight in the pic, but tons of clearance.

Alos, I think I found my sticker lol. We're getting to Buck no matter what time

 

[thezentree]

On Amazon it looks like it is $16


Awesome, I think I'm getting there! Thank you.

$16 sounds more like what I'd have been willing to pay.
I just did a quick search on it, and was pretty surprised how expensive it is!

Lots of counterfeit loctite on Amazon. Be careful with that if it’s a place where it matters.

 

[Slander]

My steering jam nuts came loose once and I hung off of them with a big ass crescent wrench and they have been fine since. I would also look at how your ram is mounted, it may be trying to unscrew it through its range of motion.

 

[Diablo169]

My steering jam nuts came loose once and I hung off of them with a big ass crescent wrench and they have been fine since. I would also look at how your ram is mounted, it may be trying to unscrew it through its range of motion.

Yeah, I can't remember if I actually cranked down on them or not. I'll hit them with some brake clean, loctite and a big crecent.

The problem is also the weight of the ram twists the ball joints so they aren't centered. FordFascist made a wobble stopper for his I might look into.

 

[Diablo169]

New Master and Slave installed. Clutch disengages perfectly now. I think it was the slave. It was almost locked up and chunky.

I cleaned the lines and blew them out. Should be good to go.

4-Speeds and Leaf Springs party harder

Some nice fresh fluid.

Out with the Crusty $hit.

Also. I noticed I have a Propane leak in the Vapor Tube 90 after the Regulator, so I may have gotten better mileage.

I also ordered a new clutch, I’ll in stall that when I swap in the G52/54. Surprising how cheap this stuff is. Also made in Japan.

 

[Boomtacoma01]

My steering jam nuts came loose once and I hung off of them with a big ass crescent wrench and they have been fine since. I would also look at how your ram is mounted, it may be trying to unscrew it through its range of motion.

Yeah, I can't remember if I actually cranked down on them or not. I'll hit them with some brake clean, loctite and a big crecent.

The problem is also the weight of the ram twists the ball joints so they aren't centered. FordFascist made a wobble stopper for his I might look into.

An Air Hammer does a damn solid job on jamb nuts.. I've also used the tack method in the past.

 

[Diablo169]

Not a ton to update. Spent a week prepping the property for multiple graduations, haven’t messed with the truck too much.

I got the crawl box shifter installed with all new parts from YotaMasters. They had really quick shipping and cheaper shipping than the other companies.

I also trimmed the body a little so the shifter would clear.

I’m thinking about picking up one of these cup holder things from JC Customs.

 

[TheeCaseyH]

Not a ton to update. Spent a week prepping the property for multiple graduations, haven’t messed with the truck too much.

I got the crawl box shifter installed with all new parts from YotaMasters. They had really quick shipping and cheaper shipping than the other companies.

I also trimmed the body a little so the shifter would clear.

I’m thinking about picking up one of these cup holder things from JC Customs.

Thats sweet. Got a link to those things?

 

[Diablo169]

Thats sweet. Got a link to those things?

Yeah. They also have a Molle Panel holster attachment available for it. Very Tactical.

Stylish Toyota Pickup Shifter Mounted Cup Holders

Toyota Pickup shifter-mounted cup holders are a smart upgrade for daily driving or off-road use. Get yours now and stay spill-free!

jccustomsmetalfab.com

JC Customs

 

[Diablo169]

Big update for last night.

New Hood Bumpers and Prop Rod Grommet from Toyota. Originals had fallen apart after 42 years.

Grommet was $3.61, Hood Bumpers $10.53ea.

I also fixed the propane leak after the Regulator. Both fittings were loose and I could hear them leaking. I added the yellow teflon tape and made sure they were tight.

Oddly the inside was incredibly clean, but where the propane was venting to atmosphere was all oily and tacky. I still don’t know how much propane I went through, but I never had to swap tanks.

And then tweaker running from the sheriff’s crashed trying to back down someone’s driveway. It’s always a second gen Dowdge.

 

[Diablo169]

Worked a little on the new bump stops. Started with the driver side.

I’m reusing the spring plate and U-Bolts for now and adding Amazon Chevy Bump Stops.

We were having a very violent bottom out and I figured it was the front tires cause I ran them at 13psi. Turns out I had 4” up travel to the hard as rock bump stops, and the Ram had 3” up travel to the oil pan. I also found out my passenger fancy 5160 was blown out

Hopefully when I get this all squared away it will ride much much nicer.

Nice dents from the Ram and Center Link.

Used some pieces of 2” .250 wall to make pads for the bump stops.

I hope these welds hold lol.

Painted with some MRO and bumps installed. I probably should have given my self more room as the nut is really hard to tighten. I might add a tac weld.

Now I have a little over 2 1/4” till it contacts the bump. Should also help keep the tires out of the firewall.

I’m also going to build a semi wobble stopper. The Ram is directly inline with the center link, so it doesn’t wobble, but gravity pulls it down. I’m going to build something that goes below the Ram to hold it level.

Old setup, and blown out 5160.

 

[rockota]

curious how you like the new bumps. I have a set of them on the shelf in the barn that I planned to use for the tacoma

 

[Diablo169]

I got the driver side bump stop installed and the anti droop pad for the Ram Assist completed.

To keep the Center Link from dropping I made a plate to bolt to the U-Bolts and added some 3/4” UHMW for the bolt of the Ram Assist to slide on to keep it from dropping.

Some 3/8” hardware to attach the UHMW to the 1/4” plate.

All installed. I made it a little long so that I can trim it if it is too long.

I got the passenger side welded up and painted. Should have it back together tomorrow.

12” 5100 Billy’s showed up today, and I’m going to try and get them installed tomorrow. Hopefully the bump stops and new shocks fix the front end shitty rude.

 

[Diablo169]

Got it all back together and took it for its first test drive since the con. While it drove much much better and had zero bottoming out, it still rode like $hit. I think the 3-Leaf front pack is really stiff. But overall the ride was decent for a 42 year truck on 30psi Super Swampers.

They came with the boots pre installed.

I’m pretty impressed with the quality of the sleeves.

No idea what this leaf pack is, but they ride rough and have very little droop.

Next, I have to get rid of the rear spool.

 

[Diablo169]

Little side tracked, but I’m chipping away at the charging system. Last trip anything below 800rpm my Charge light was on. I think I have a 45amp alternator along with a reman Voltage Regulator.

I think I’ve settled on a Power Master 140amp 12SI alternator with an LC Engineering Bracket.

I just need to make sense of the factory wiring and some of the fawkery that has happened to the existing wiring.

There are 5 wires going to the factory Alternator; Power, Groud, and 3 to the plug. All 5 go to the main harness and then through the firewall and into the main fuse panel.

Here I’m starting to pull it all apart. Regulator is already removed here.

Plugs going to the Alternator.

All stripped down.

Also did an oil change. This was before I realized I have the larger 18mm drain plug.

 

[smracing]

If you are not wheeling in below zero temps, I'd run 15-40.

 

[J.Cole]

When I did a GM alternator swap on a 1980 Toyota pickup, I only used the yellow wire from the factory harness.

I ran a new 4G wire from the post of the back of the alternator straight to the positive terminal on the battery, with a bussman mega fuse inline.

There's two terminals on the back of the GM alternator labeled 1 & 2.

The #2 terminal is the remote voltage sensing terminal. This goes to the post on the back of the alternator with the new 4G wire going to the battery.

The #1 terminal is the excitation or "ignition" terminal. This goes to the yellow wire on the plug going into the factory voltage regulator which ties into the dash light.

Hopefully your factory harness hasn't been hacked too bad and yiu can make sense of it.

 

[Diablo169]

If you are not wheeling in below zero temps, I'd run 15-40.

Yeah 5w-30 might be a little two thin. This thing burns oil like a smudge pot.

It smells like someone flared up a propane bbq with a bunch of moldy hamburger patties and a few dead rats in it, then dumped used motor oil on it to put out the flames. That bad.

 

[JayMcJay]

It smells like someone flared up a propane bbq with a bunch of moldy hamburger patties and a few dead rats in it, then dumped used motor oil on it to put out the flames.

That’s my kind of party…..

 

[Diablo169]

When I did a GM alternator swap on a 1980 Toyota pickup, I only used the yellow wire from the factory harness.

I ran a new 4G wire from the post of the back of the alternator straight to the positive terminal on the battery, with a bussman mega fuse inline.

There's two terminals on the back of the GM alternator labeled 1 & 2.

The #2 terminal is the remote voltage sensing terminal. This goes to the post on the back of the alternator with the new 4G wire going to the battery.

The #1 terminal is the excitation or "ignition" terminal. This goes to the yellow wire on the plug going into the factory voltage regulator which ties into the dash light.

Hopefully your factory harness hasn't been hacked too bad and yiu can make sense of it.

Thanks for the info! My harness has been hacked a bit over near the battery.

MtnYota sent me over the FSM for it, and it looks like the funky plug that has been hacked together with the red and black wire going to positive, is actually somewhat factory, just each wire is supposed to be connected to the positive terminal with a fuse able link.

These small wires are what powers the entire system when the key is off, and I’m assuming charge the battery. From the factory a White wire, maybe 10ga, goes from the Alternator into the harness, and not directly to the battery. I think I’m going to leave this white wire hooked up to the new alternator, as well as run a 4ga from the new alternator directly to the battery.

I purchased the LC Gm alternator bracket. Probably the nicest thing on this truck.

The upper alternator bracket bolt was not very easy to see or even get to. I pulled the radiator and everything out to get to it.

While pulling everything apart I noticed an absolute mismatch of bolts mixed with harware store crap.

22RE performance sells a completed set of OE power steering and idle bracket bolts I’m going to order, along with a bearing for the factory idler pully. I ordered a Dayco pully but it is smaller than factory and it doesn’t fit tightly.