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76 scout/willys PU

NDCjeepsmith

NDCjeepsmith

Red Skull Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2021
Member Number
4600
Messages
642
Loc
SW Mo
So I picked up another project... like I need one! Anyhow it's a 76 scout with a 48 willys cab on it. WB is definitely off so I'll be stretching rear frame and looking to swap in some offset leaf packs in front to bring it out about 3".

Anyhow, I about rolled it into the shop and through the shop unloading from trailer as the brakes decided to not brake.

Had a very noticable drip out the back side of master once I looked into it. Grabbed a MC from autozone but when I got home I think it's a drum/drum MC. Has two same size resi's, instead of one larger. I ordered and the box shows duralast #NM1494 which photos shows to look correct. Mine looks like the #M1494 which photos shows twin resi's and states a reman instead of new.

Am I right that I got a drum/drum and it's not right? Can I use this MC anyhow or should I take it back and make sure I get a disk/drum?
 
I'd got buy a new one. Proper should be larger front resivour.
 
All Autozone MCs are the drum MCs in disc/drum boxes. I pulled the 3 local to me and all were like that.

Oriellys did have one though.

What auto trans were in the scouts behind the 304?

I bought this for my grandpa to get him back in a willys but he's pretty much lost all interest in about everything so I may just finish it up more and off load it. Throw some skinny 33s on it and see how it looks once the WB is stretched to match a PU.
 
Chrysler 727s with an IH bell bolt pattern.

So don't go to vatozone?

RAYBESTOS MC36461
CENTRIC 130.64001
FVP NM1494
 
What wheel base you shooting for?

The main frame is sleeved on a traveler/ Terra.

My frame under my SSII is actually a cut down traveler frame that I shortened and welded the sleeves back in.

Count find a good 100" WB frame in my area.
 
118"

15 rear and 3 front.

Rear should be pretty straight forward. Chop it, add in 15" of rec tube and fishplate the joints. Only thing I really will have to change is the driveshaft. It's got a fuel cell of sorts thrown in between rails so I could just lengthen the lines but I'm thinking I may see if one of the tanks in any of the 3 2000s era rangers that are sitting around will be a better and bigger option.

Up front of course the steering will be the big work around but what really bugs me is the flimsy ass brackets the guy booger welded to get the column mounted.
 
Just find a Terra or traveler frame and swap everything over. They were 118 from the factory.
 
Thought about that but it's already on there. Plus I'd still have the front issue to deal with since there was less offset from front of frame to axle center on the willys vs any of the internationals.
 
Should be able to move the front axle forward by the 3" by just moving spring perches.
 
Pretty sure mine is moved 2.5" forward just by going to reverse shackle and using 3 hole spring perches. Could have moved it 3" easy by just putting the shackle fangs to the front of the frame rather than 1" back.
 
I was thinking about a shackle reversal and moving hanger to be integrated with front bumper to scoot it forward.

May be a better move than trying to use rear springs off something else as I'm sure these V8s are pigs.
 
Winchested said:
Pretty sure mine is moved 2.5" forward just by going to reverse shackle and using 3 hole spring perches. Could have moved it 3" easy by just putting the shackle fangs to the front of the frame rather than 1" back.
Click to expand...
Steering wise what issues did you run into?

Have to move box at all?
 
NDCjeepsmith said:
Steering wise what issues did you run into?

Have to move box at all?
Click to expand...

No, but I used the IHPA highsteer kit. Which actually uses a shorter pitman arm.

Now I'm using a custom highsteer setup on a Dana 60 front.
 
You can easily stretch the ass.

Do anything with the front and be prepared to cut and turn

scout_ii_frame_height-92551.jpg
 
Got any pictures of this thing? It will be easier to see exactly what you are taking about with pictures.
 
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