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74 K10 build/rebuild

PurfsMcGurfs

PurfsMcGurfs

Handy capable
Joined
Sep 3, 2022
Member Number
5506
Messages
154
Loc
Southern Oregon
So I've had this truck for about 20 years now. Was my first vehicle for driving and wrenching on. 2007-2011 I installed a painless harness, 1 tons, 52/56s and some racing seats, crossover steering. All the basic goodies. It started out life as a 350/350/203 truck and I swapped it to a 465/205 with hydro clutch. A lot of time scouring pick your part and craigslist to build it. Around mid 2011, I moved away from my parents house and the truck stayed there for 6 years until 2017 when I hauled it up.

Borrowed a trailer and towed her 1000 miles home.
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First things first, i installed a steering box brace and gave it a fresh paint job.

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16 cans of rustoleum later and she looked a lot less shitty.

Then it sat neglected on the side of my house for a few years because I was a mechanic and had little interest in building it. I was mostly riding motorcycles for those years.

Moved away from PDX in june of 22 and the truck sat until about Sept. I had a good chunk of money saved to dump into my camaro but, decided this truck needed to become something other than a lawn ornament instead. So the teardown began.
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Bed came off, shocks were wrong, pinion angle was wrong, still had drums in the back so it was time to change that. It had a suburban tank in the bed that was jenky and, I really wanted a blazer tank under the bed so that got added along with fixing the previous fuckery.

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Now to fix the pinion angle on the 70hd. It was at like 11*, dropped back to 6*. Axle was also forward an inch so I shifted it back with ruffstuff perches.
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After that was in, I did a rear disk brake swap with diy's brackets and some 3/4t calipers. I then moved on to shocks. Originally thought 12s would be fine but, hated it so I decided to outboard them. I may have been overzealous with a 12" tower but, eventually I will probably link it so whatever.
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While I waited for shocks and such, I pulled the motor, installed the ORD crossmember, and started mocking up the holley EFI stuff. The reman 350 was getting assembled and ready.
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moar...
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Painted the firewall while everything was out. reman was ready to go in, installed the harness and efi. then built fuel lines.
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installed my radiator, core support and kept on trucking to get it mobile.
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Shocks showed up and I put the bed back on.
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At this point, I had buttoned up the front and got it fired up. I took a shitload of pics but, somehow I cant seem to find any of the exhaust. Its stainless blockhuggers with 2.5" y pipe to 3" single going through a flowmonster. Loud and obnoxious. Cooked a plug wire on cyl 6 during cam break in.
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Time to finish the fuel fill and bed side. Cut the saddle tank filler mount and welded it in the back up high for the blazer filler.
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Paint was done on the bedside so I got the hood mounted and painted it green as well. Absolutely looked too fuckin john deere so I repainted it satin black. I kinda dig the old hemi flat black hood look anyway. My 1le had a black wrapped hood, maybe ill have it replaced so they can match:lmao:

Dropped off the front driveshaft at the shop to have them build a new custom long slip one. It's been a month now and it still hasn't shown up. I might just build my own or call Tom woods. Its kinda small town around here so he said he's still waiting on the long slip splines. I drove the truck around the property and quickly realized it needs a winch so I started building a mount. I wanted to tie everything together so I started on this.

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After welding, I slapped it on. It's at this point until the winch shows up.
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The winch just showed up so now I'm headed to the shop to get to work on finishing it. After that, Ill be moving on to the front shocks and bump stops at all 4 corners.
 
So this is where I'm at right now. Had to trim the frame a bit to get it in there but the bolts are in. I'll have to flatten the ruffstuff fairlead mount to weld it on. I tore apart the solenoid case because it's not all that sealed and it's too fucking big to mount on the core support next to the headlight.
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I'll trim the lower valance for the lever once I have everything dialed.
 
Test fitting the fairlead mount,
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Looked good so I burned everything in and painted it. Got it all put back together and wired the winch up.
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Finished putting the front back together and this was how it turned out. I like that it doesnt stick out a mile in front. I hate most winch bumpers. I might add a small stinger to it once I can swing a tube bender.
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Called the driveshaft shop. He's still waiting on the slip portions. I thought fuck it, ill find the slip and yoke but everyones out of stock or very expensive. Then I thought just order one from tom woods but, that opens a whole new can of worms. Everything will need to go 1350. I'll either need to swap to the 1350 yokes on the case and diff or swap the diff yoke and go to a flange output on the 205. Both ways are kind of expensive. Guess I'll just have to find a set of yokes but 1350 10 splines seem to out of stock so far.
 
Still waiting on the driveshaft. They've got the splines but he's waiting on the slip to be made. Maybe a week or two hopefully.

I've been wanting gears/lockers for a long time so, tomorrow I'm gonna call up ECGS and see if they have a 70hd spool. I'll probably order my 4.88s and install kits from them regardless. If anyone knows a better place for gears and install kits, let me know.

I found a new d60 grizzly locker for a good price locally so I picked that up today. That was convenient and saved me some cash.
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What is a 'standard' slip?

Many Chevy shafts are that common squared-off 32-spline so you can put any common trans/tcase slip yoke on it.
 
I'd have to call him tomorrow and verify but I think he was trying to get a 9" spline length. Not sure on spline count.
 
u2slow said:
What is a 'standard' slip?

Many Chevy shafts are that common squared-off 32-spline so you can put any common trans/tcase slip yoke on it.
Click to expand...
Not a slip yoke for the case. A slip for the splined end of the drive shaft. My t-case has fixed yokes.

Standard is about 3.5" on a stock shaft
 
PurfsMcGurfs said:
Not a slip yoke for the case. A slip for the splined end of the drive shaft. My t-case has fixed yokes.
Click to expand...

Duh. Talking about the yoke on the front driveshaft. At the pinion end.

Take a yoke off some other rear driveshaft. Use it.
 
Update on the rig. I ordered all the gears and spool from ecgs. It's been here for a little bit but, I got the rona and was down for a bit. Gotta pull the axles out and get the gears in. I might do it in the truck but, I also might just pull the axles out and do it comfortably.

I installed the diy4x4 shock towers and 14" bilsteins up front. Shocks are done at this point. Need to fab new bump stops still.
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Got tired of the run around with the driveshaft guy so I cancelled the shaft. I really didnt want to run 1310 joints anyway so I spent the money and got the parts to convert the 205 to 32 spline. Everything is going 1350. The 60 yoke was pretty fucked anyway so, no brainer.

Case is coming out for a reseal and twin sticks so I can do all the work in one shot. Once that's done, I'll call tom woods and get the 1350 cv shaft made.

I'll get going on this thing this week. After that, its tires. Nothing decent locally in a 16.5. I found a set of new 39.5 iroks but they are radials. Dont know how I feel about that. I'd rather run Sx's but, I'd have to buy new and they would be 38.5s. If you have an opinion, let me know.
 
Finally got the rear axle done and back in. My first pinion shim stack was fucked because I somehow managed to miss a .010" shim. Had a +4 pinion originally, the new 4.88 Spicer pinion was a 0. Original stack was .049" and I added .004 but when I installed the stack the missing .010" left me at 043. This put me on a wild goose chase for a few rounds swapping and rechecking patterns until I said hold up and started at .053" again. Thank god I made setup bearings/races. Finally got a pattern I was happy with. I probably could have ran .052" but, no big deal. She gonna work. The 80 spool took 145 and 143 thou on the sides for preload. Final b/l was .007"

Too shallow
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Too deep
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Run it. (I think my final pattern is on the other camera but, this is close enough)
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Back at home. Be jealous of my purple cover. :flipoff2:
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I might pull the 60 out in a little bit. I'm kinda tired today.

My wife has been hanging out in the shop working on some of her art projects and asked me "When are you going to be happy with this truck?"

I hadn't thought much about it but, I really want to beat this POS through the Rubicon. I've never been but, always wanted to go. So I'm establishing that as a goal. Get this truck together and run the con this year or next year. After the t-case work, shafts and tires, I'll need to decide on single ended full hydro or hydro assist for the steering. I would rather ditch the box and get a single ended ram. It's obviously not a DD, yall got any opinions?
 
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Finished the regear and locker on the front. Didnt get many pics, was busy enough filming it.
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I did replace the u bolts with new ones I got from ruffstuff. Didnt need to but, I had them so why not.

At this point I have everything for the 205 except the 32 spline output and gasket kit. ORD must be pretty backordered, it's been almost 2 weeks so far and no shipping update.

Not wanting to waste time, I finally picked up a bottle and cart for the HF welder along with some steel tube to build the rear bumper. The bottle was expensive but, I'd rather have a shit ton of gas on hand.
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After building some brackets and hanging the tube, I got around to chopping the bottoms off the bed for the bumper side bars. Here's the result.
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I'm kind of dreading the rock sliders. The 8' of 2x4x3/16 bumper tube was expensive, I can only imagine how much 20' of 3/16 2x8 will cost. Also how time consuming the cutting will be when I mini boatside the rockers and doors. That'll be fun.

I'll work on it more tomorrow. I was pretty over it today.
 
Nice truck!

For curiosities sake, whats the quote on your driveshafts?

I got a quote for drivelines. And they wanted $600 just for the rear. And that was in 2018. I ended up having Brian at Drvieline tech do both the front and rear for under that. Though, he moved to Utah I believe.


I had a 1410 rear done on both ujoints. And kept the front a 1310. Since the cv has more angle on the 1310. And currently at 6" lift, I don't have a ton of drop left it seems. That and I figure the drive shaft is easier to swap then fixing the d44 in my case.
 
From the local guy it was about 550 with long slip, new joints, and .120 wall tube for my front cv in 1310. I can get the 1350 shaft from tom woods for less. Now I just need the 32 spline output for the 205 to arrive.

I wanted a front drive shaft to play in the snow but, I dropped it off in december and was told 2 weeks. 2 months later, he still had nothing so I said fuck that. I missed the snow, no reason to build the 1310 shaft.
 
I guess from a local shop, that might not have as much buying power. The cost isn't completely unreasonable. Though the wait time starts to become a bit.

I'll keep watching this for more updates. Maybe it'll give me the motivation to go out and work on my 74 k10 again.
 
I have a 2" pilot threaded flange for the case from Tom Woods. Just waiting on the 32 spline output. Everything will be 1350.
 
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