What's new

6L80E to Dana 300 Advance adapter issues

1Sinner

Just won't quit
CAL4
Joined
Feb 22, 2021
Member Number
3533
Messages
1,062
Loc
Edwards Commiefornia
So I wait months for my adapter to arrive, in the description, says will work with any 6L80E. I download the instructions (none in the box) and there's a small warning box toward the bottom of the second page.... "Will not work with fixed yoke 2wd transmissions...." Which of course is what I have since my drivetrain came out of a G8. Reading through the directions and lengths at which it says to cut the transmission output shaft, I have plenty of length and spline. Seems the kicker is the O-ring protrusion on the fixed yoke shaft. Stops the T-case from fully seating by about .100" any reason I can't carefully grind down and buff that area of the output shaft down to the same OD as the splines? (Not losing any shaft size or strength). I could also get the t-case input shaft on the lathe and cut just a hair out of the input spline area to account for the hard stop on the output shaft (would require partial T-case teardown again). Pictures later. Anyone done this conversion? Not going to use an Atlas as I already have a fresh Dana 300 and cable shifter assy.
 
Just buy the right trans output from Rock Auto for like 99.99.

Then sell yours, as a lot of people are trying to adapt 4wd to 2wd.
 
Just buy the right trans output from Rock Auto for like 99.99.

Then sell yours, as a lot of people are trying to adapt 4wd to 2wd.
Don't want to tear the trans down if I don't absolutely have to. Cause when I do stuff like that it turns into... I may as well put new clutches and frictions and a new converter and valve body work... I don't want to go down that rabbit hole.
 
Seems like it's a push on which would resolve the issue the best.

Taking a grinder to the output seems to be the easiest to me.
 
The rear output unbolts, like an Allison.
 
20210518_173153.jpg
so I could remove roughly an 1/8" from the transfer case input shap and splines, and re-bevel the inner throat.

The dark line on the splines in the second picture is roughly where it needs to be cut on all 6L80E transmissions (including short output 4wd models).

The pink line in the third picture is what the transfer case input will contact (roughly .100 from seating) and can easily be removed without compromising shaft integrity if carefully ground and buffed after installing seal plugs and output seal (where blue tape is)

Picture is worth a thousand words.

Or make a .125 spacer ring to go between the transfer case/adapter leave splines cut slightly longer and get slightly longer bolts.
 

Attachments

  • 20210518_173325.jpg
    20210518_173325.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 87
  • 20210518_173334.jpg
    20210518_173334.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 72
Or make a .125 spacer ring to go between the transfer case/adapter leave splines cut slightly longer and get slightly longer bolts.
This is what I'd do.

Standard municipal stop sign should be 1/8 in case you're short on sheet metal. Running a clocking ring seems like a needless reduction in spline engagement that you should probably avoid if you don't need to.
 
I ended up ordering the clocking ring. I will just end up cutting off a little less spline to maintain full engagement. If I don't like it, I can always make a spacer and remove a little more spline.
 
This is what I'd do.

Standard municipal stop sign should be 1/8 in case you're short on sheet metal. Running a clocking ring seems like a needless reduction in spline engagement that you should probably avoid if you don't need to.
you clearly need to learn how the fuck to follow along

look at the fucking picture

he has to cut splines off because theyre too long

cut less splines off (perhaps maybe the same amount as the clocking ring is thick)= same amount of spline engagement with the clocking ring you fucking twat :laughing:
 
you clearly need to learn how the fuck to follow along

look at the fucking picture

he has to cut splines off because theyre too long

cut less splines off (perhaps maybe the same amount as the clocking ring is thick)= same amount of spline engagement with the clocking ring you fucking twat :laughing:
Fucking ford people I tell you wat.
 
So how'd this go?

I bought myself a CJ8, that I want to put an LH6 and 4wd 6L80E into. I have several D300's I could use.

Might use the Novak kit... but sort of wonder if I can just buy the AA 32 spline input for the D300 and rock and roll.
 
So how'd this go?

I bought myself a CJ8, that I want to put an LH6 and 4wd 6L80E into. I have several D300's I could use.

Might use the Novak kit... but sort of wonder if I can just buy the AA 32 spline input for the D300 and rock and roll.
I ended up with a clocking ring plus the AA 32 spline adapter and the aluminum AA 6L80E to Dana 300 adapter. Clocking ring fixed my spacing issue, but the seal at the back of the trans doesn't have a ton of engagement on the smooth sealing portion of the shaft (It may leak, so I bought a 4wd output shaft on ebay and have it on the shelf just in case). I ended up needing the Clocking ring anyway because the AA transmission adapter clocked it too low for my liking.

Still slowly putting this thing together so I haven't fired it up yet, but everything went together like butter if that helps.
 
I am having a 6L80E built now, so I can spec it however I want. So will do 4wd at least.

I've done a lot of 4L*e's... always with a factory adapter and the correct D300 input.

Seems like I may be able to do that here?

PFA
 

Attachments

  • 354242379_238602122245975_4682730351577309916_n.jpg
    354242379_238602122245975_4682730351577309916_n.jpg
    560.3 KB · Views: 18
I put an atlas behind a 6l80e for my father in law. I agree, the stock adapter looked like it would have worked, but the aa guy said I needed it.

I never did check to see if it would have worked, I'm wondering if there is a small difference?
 
I put an atlas behind a 6l80 with the stock adapter. Had to redrill the atlas to clock the studs correctly. A clocking ring probably would have worked fine as well.
 
So, how are y'all sneaking a drive shaft past the trans?

This is for a Scrambler, a very narrow frame and close front pinion, with little lift on 32's.
 
Top Back Refresh