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Looks to me like that older-generation inline 6 (235ci?) doesn't use a standard Chevy pattern.
Found this link about a T5 swap with what looks like an original bellhousing.
www.jalopyjournal.com
Found this link about a T5 swap with what looks like an original bellhousing.
Tech: Installing a T-5 behind a 235 ci Six in a 55-59 Chevy truck w/ short shifter
I love Tech week. I have learned so much from this site, so I hope I can give some back with this post. It's late and tired so I am just going to get...
www.jalopyjournal.com
Projectjunkie
Whatever
Couple random thoughts for a mild driver...
Pre hard body Nissan used a divorced t case that is compact and stout, like v8 and 33s stout
Also manual steering sucks, the electric power steering columns from 2008ish to 2014 ish junkyard cars are super simple 12v supply, revert to manual if electronics fail. Hide under the dash. Would be my choice for a vintage "is that a napco? " build
Pre hard body Nissan used a divorced t case that is compact and stout, like v8 and 33s stout
Also manual steering sucks, the electric power steering columns from 2008ish to 2014 ish junkyard cars are super simple 12v supply, revert to manual if electronics fail. Hide under the dash. Would be my choice for a vintage "is that a napco? " build
Projectjunkie
Whatever
total newb
senior jerk ass
The rear is 55-57 gm or the ho33, maybe the same thing. Gm had theyre "own" rear for a while.
Please, pleasen please dont use a rockwel t221, they suck, they leak, they dont hold much oil at all.
Yes, sqrbdy brackets can work but dollars to donuts pre 72 brackets will work better.
A mail order engine crossmember and convensional trans cross will free up a shit ton of trans options.
Please, pleasen please dont use a rockwel t221, they suck, they leak, they dont hold much oil at all.
Yes, sqrbdy brackets can work but dollars to donuts pre 72 brackets will work better.
A mail order engine crossmember and convensional trans cross will free up a shit ton of trans options.
We're in the collecting parts phase but I'll be posting pics when we start the swap.Sluggy bump bump bump, we need some vintage driver 4wd truck updates
Projectjunkie
Whatever
Giggity!
This makes me happy, a late 50s chevy, 4wd, preferably fleet side on tall narrow tires with hubcaps, hidden upgrades, maybe straight 6 but overdrive, vintage under dash ac is on my short list
Projectjunkie
Whatever
Yup! I'd probably go without the high back seats though...
The 1970 k20 version of that is always parked at the little airport near me, also yellow, very clean, love a vintage 4wd with the right upgrades
The 1970 k20 version of that is always parked at the little airport near me, also yellow, very clean, love a vintage 4wd with the right upgrades
Projectjunkie
Whatever
Hell yeah
So far we've taken a bunch of parts off of it and now understand why people frame swap them...
Picked up some sweet axles from Fishnbeer out of a 1st gen bronco
Front dana 44
4.10s, Detroit, chromo axles/ joints, new ball joints and high steer
Rear ford 9 big bearing
4.11s, Detroit, 31spline chromo axles, disk brakes with Eldorado calipers
Axles are over built for this truck but the price was risee.
Ended up picking up a adapter to run the sm420 to np231 or d300. I already had a np231 from a tj and was able to trade some parts for a new in the box sye.
Here's some pics
Picked up some sweet axles from Fishnbeer out of a 1st gen bronco
Front dana 44
4.10s, Detroit, chromo axles/ joints, new ball joints and high steer
Rear ford 9 big bearing
4.11s, Detroit, 31spline chromo axles, disk brakes with Eldorado calipers
Axles are over built for this truck but the price was risee.
Ended up picking up a adapter to run the sm420 to np231 or d300. I already had a np231 from a tj and was able to trade some parts for a new in the box sye.
Here's some pics
Projectjunkie
Whatever
This is one of the builds I check in on, great to see it coming together
Details on the front axle install and steering?
Details on the front axle install and steering?
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Also can anyone spoon feed me the right way to convert inline 6 generator wiring to a v8 internally regulated wiring? Just wondering if I can just use the wires off the external regulator to keep it simple.
Other newb question
With running the new HEI the battery wire should be on the ignition or directly to the battery? I'm thinking ignition to cut it off.
To lazy to search Google and now it's time to get back to work.
Other newb question
With running the new HEI the battery wire should be on the ignition or directly to the battery? I'm thinking ignition to cut it off.
To lazy to search Google and now it's time to get back to work.
So quick recap
We ended up keeping the original frame but now understand why everyone swaps out to the newer 4x4 style frames. We boxed the whole frame front to back with 3/16 plate and added a cut down tow hitch for a recovery point in the rear. Also have another hitch for the front but I want to mount the steering box before that.
We replaced the rear springs with Chevy 63s and out boarded the hangers as much as possible. The problem with the bronco 9" was that with the Eldorado disk brakes it was too narrow and almost rubbed the OE springs. So the parking brake was going to interfere with the cable/ spring.
Welded all the cross members to help with frame flex.
Kept the factory tranny crossmember, built new motor mounts out of 1/4 plate and a tcase/ transmission crossmember. Might have to change up the tranny cross member but it's bolt in.
Now I'm waiting on some borgenson steering parts and I'm going to start with the steering box mounts Sunday hopefully.
Was able to source some info off a tri 5 website for the wiring but still mapping it out at the moment.
Jimbo
We ended up keeping the original frame but now understand why everyone swaps out to the newer 4x4 style frames. We boxed the whole frame front to back with 3/16 plate and added a cut down tow hitch for a recovery point in the rear. Also have another hitch for the front but I want to mount the steering box before that.
We replaced the rear springs with Chevy 63s and out boarded the hangers as much as possible. The problem with the bronco 9" was that with the Eldorado disk brakes it was too narrow and almost rubbed the OE springs. So the parking brake was going to interfere with the cable/ spring.
Welded all the cross members to help with frame flex.
Kept the factory tranny crossmember, built new motor mounts out of 1/4 plate and a tcase/ transmission crossmember. Might have to change up the tranny cross member but it's bolt in.
Now I'm waiting on some borgenson steering parts and I'm going to start with the steering box mounts Sunday hopefully.
Was able to source some info off a tri 5 website for the wiring but still mapping it out at the moment.
Jimbo
Cut the rear crossmembers out to fit in the new fuel tank, there's no longer the 15 gallon behind the seat. Also bought a set of dorman ffront wagoneer springs, we'll see how these match the rear Chevy springs.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
What brand tranny jack is that?Cut the rear crossmembers out to fit in the new fuel tank, there's no longer the 15 gallon behind the seat. Also bought a set of dorman ffront wagoneer springs, we'll see how these match the rear Chevy springs.
I'll try to grab a picture of it tonight, but it's been great.
Edit: here's a picture of the sticker Levigarrett76
Edit: here's a picture of the sticker Levigarrett76
Last edited:
Projectjunkie
Whatever
Updates?
So the 2" front springs weren't gonna cut it for us, so we ended up building a front spring hanger that would work with 2.5" springs. Bought some dorman wagoneer springs off the zon due to bring cheap/ free shipping/ easy return if wrong.
I spun some sleeves out of solid bar stock for mounting the Saginaw box and thought the box was going to stick out more. Only issue was after we bolted in the radiator, then realized the box was gonna be real tight to the frame. Right now we're just pivoting the box off the bottom bolt to get the angle right for the pitman arm and the steering sector shaft.
As for the shackle part of the rear spring, we just laid the spring under weight of the truck to get an idea on where to install the bushings I just bought off Big4x4ride 🍻 So what's nice is they match to the middle crossmember that we kept in place where the bell housing mounts to.
I spun some sleeves out of solid bar stock for mounting the Saginaw box and thought the box was going to stick out more. Only issue was after we bolted in the radiator, then realized the box was gonna be real tight to the frame. Right now we're just pivoting the box off the bottom bolt to get the angle right for the pitman arm and the steering sector shaft.
As for the shackle part of the rear spring, we just laid the spring under weight of the truck to get an idea on where to install the bushings I just bought off Big4x4ride 🍻 So what's nice is they match to the middle crossmember that we kept in place where the bell housing mounts to.
Photo dump for Projectjunkie.
Been a couple months and progress has been moving along. Finally got it out of the shop to test the suspension travel and steering. Everything clears nicely other than the bed seam and now it's time to start doing all the little things that take so much time.
So here's some mandatory flex photos.
Been a couple months and progress has been moving along. Finally got it out of the shop to test the suspension travel and steering. Everything clears nicely other than the bed seam and now it's time to start doing all the little things that take so much time.
So here's some mandatory flex photos.
Projectjunkie
Whatever
Oh hell yeah!
BustedCrank
Webwheeler
Yup. I dig it.