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2022 Ram 3500 drw, HO Diesel....What to expect?

TrailTamer

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I was going to reprogram the TPMS pressures to lower pressure in the rear but didn't think about the front.
How low would you go?
It depend on what tire size & it’s load rating and wheel diameter x width you have on the truck.

For stock size load E tires, probably in 50’s psi. You need to air them down and go from there, just like you will after a new set of oversized mudders installed on your Jeep.

Bigger tires, lower air pressure. Dumb wide tire on narrow wheel, even more lower air pressure. Always remember this; bigger tires = more surface area in contact on ground, therefore less air pressure needed to support the weight. PSI=pound per in^2. It’s all about to get full contact to ground shoulder to shoulder.

My XJ with 36x13.5R15 IROK BIAS on 15x8 wheels; approx 7-8 psi on street :laughing:
My truck (SRW) with 315/70R17 load E tires (max inflation 65 psi) on 17x8 oem wheels; ~35 psi unloaded (~7,500lbs) all around.

FWIW
 

YotaAtieToo

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Have you guys try get better wear out of front tires by dropping air pressure some? My theory, front tires with dumb high manufacturer recommended air pressure for when the truck isn’t anywhere close to its GVWR or GAWR can cause tires to bounce constantly at speed and cup/feather as result. And get a little better ride quality at the same time.
I'm not sure about that theory. My old boss got 100k miles out of the stock good years like 3 times on 2 different F350s. He ran 75 psi all the time.

Not a dually, so who knows. If the shoulders are wearing, I don't see lower pressure helping.
 

Tinstar

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Take your F250 or F350 truck that's feathering the fronts. Air the fronts to max pressure. Go into a parking lot and turn to full lock and drive forward. Notice how much the outside tire rolls under. Now air down into the 50's and do it again. You will see which air pressure to run right away. This applies to the fronts. Rear pressures can be lowered when unloaded, especially on a dually.

TrailTamer, I agree with your assessment of tire pressures in the lighter rigs with big tires. I run 20F/15R in my Jeep on 37x13.50x15's. 3/4 and 1 ton trucks with heavy front ends on stockish sized tires will feather less with full pressure.
 

YotaAtieToo

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It depend on what tire size & it’s load rating and wheel diameter x width you have on the truck.

For stock size load E tires, probably in 50’s psi. You need to air them down and go from there, just like you will after a new set of oversized mudders installed on your Jeep.

Bigger tires, lower air pressure. Dumb wide tire on narrow wheel, even more lower air pressure. Always remember this; bigger tires = more surface area in contact on ground, therefore less air pressure needed to support the weight. PSI=pound per in^2. It’s all about to get full contact to ground shoulder to shoulder.

My XJ with 36x13.5R15 IROK BIAS on 15x8 wheels; approx 7-8 psi on street :laughing:
My truck (SRW) with 315/70R17 load E tires (max inflation 65 psi) on 17x8 oem wheels; ~35 psi unloaded (~7,500lbs) all around.

FWIW

35 psi on a 1 ton truck for all around use is pretty low. Even with oversized tires. I run 285 or 295s on 16x7 obs alcoas and never go below 50 unless I'm doing a bunch of dirt road or snow. I've never worn the centers out of them except the last set of 295s that I accidentally left at 80 psi for 10k or miles after I unloaded my camper. They had maybe 15% tread on the out side and 5% in the middle. Not like night and day different.
 

CarterKraft

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To keep hi-jacking the OP's thread...
108 mile one way trip in a 25mph head wind @ 75mph vs the return trip with tail wind.

20220115_085126.jpg



20220115_134353.jpg
 

YotaAtieToo

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I guess our 2.7 F150 gets 28 mpg on the highway :flipoff2:




20220115_185103.jpg

The top of the Green bar is 30 mpg btw. Sorry for the shitty Pic, we were dodging elk and moose on the highway last night and this popped into my head. :laughing:
 

Curbkrawler

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To keep hi-jacking the OP's thread...
108 mile one way trip in a 25mph head wind @ 75mph vs the return trip with tail wind.

20220115_085126.jpg



20220115_134353.jpg
I like the fact it gives you an average over the last 30 min. I assume Dodge just takes a rolling average since the last mileage reset. I really like the new Fords. If something were to happen to my current truck, I think i would give them a hard look.
 

CarterKraft

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I like the fact it gives you an average over the last 30 min. I assume Dodge just takes a rolling average since the last mileage reset. I really like the new Fords. If something were to happen to my current truck, I think i would give them a hard look.
It does a instant screen too that I will use to try and fine tune cruise speed when towing.
 

TrailTamer

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35 psi on a 1 ton truck for all around use is pretty low. Even with oversized tires. I run 285 or 295s on 16x7 obs alcoas and never go below 50 unless I'm doing a bunch of dirt road or snow. I've never worn the centers out of them except the last set of 295s that I accidentally left at 80 psi for 10k or miles after I unloaded my camper. They had maybe 15% tread on the out side and 5% in the middle. Not like night and day different.
Believe what you want. I had 285/75R16 and 295/70R17 before stepping up to 315/70R17. 285 & 295 I had were just like you said, never less than 50 psi. 315 tires are a whole different animal. My truck have little to no bulge at 35-40psi, so they aren’t ‘low’ by any means.
 

DT75FLH

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I like the fact it gives you an average over the last 30 min. I assume Dodge just takes a rolling average since the last mileage reset. I really like the new Fords. If something were to happen to my current truck, I think i would give them a hard look.

The dodge is a rolling last 30 minutes or so also....

I used to reset my b trip for oil changes, and the mpg always matches the current trip of 300 miles vs 3k miles...
 

Norm

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My 18 2500 just gave me the "DEF problem, see dealer 150 mile until limp mode" , then the message disappeared. I ordered the raceme tuner and delete pipe, fuck dealing with that problem. I guess cold weather causes issues more than anything and I knew it was coming. I'll leave the EGR in and unplugged until my warranty is up so I can quickly put it back to stock if it has any warranty issues. It the first issue I've had other than a couple minor recalls. I bought the 18 instead of the 19 because the DEF is easy to delete.
 

Curbkrawler

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My 18 2500 just gave me the "DEF problem, see dealer 150 mile until limp mode" , then the message disappeared. I ordered the raceme tuner and delete pipe, fuck dealing with that problem. I guess cold weather causes issues more than anything and I knew it was coming. I'll leave the EGR in and unplugged until my warranty is up so I can quickly put it back to stock if it has any warranty issues. It the first issue I've had other than a couple minor recalls. I bought the 18 instead of the 19 because the DEF is easy to delete.
I would like to hear your results once you install as I have been considering doing the same.
 

Norm

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Hijack away. I'm reading every word. This is all good stuff to me.


I'm interested to hear more about deleting DEF, EGR, ect. Assuming this requires a tuner of some sort to remove codes from being thrown?

I think DEF is more of an issue up north where we do more short runs, ideling, etc in the winter. Once the DEF has an issue it throws a code are starts a 150 mile countdown before going to 5 MPH max limp mode, so you have to go into the dealer in a hurry.

You can get a tuner like a raceme, pull the cat and DEF filter and replace with a straight pipe, and disable the EGR to get around DEF issues. Then you put the DEF and CAT back in, plug the EGR back in and return the computer to stock if you need to go into the dealer for warranty work or emissions testing. The DEF/EGR delete is supposed to add 3-4 MPG. The tuner is about $1200, pipe $250, and EGR delete ( you don't need this but it's better) is about $100.

I refuse to left stranded because of a stupid sensor isn't working right or some emission parts isn't working right. The reason I bought a 18 was the kit was available and easy to install and I knew this was an issue. Some dealers won't work a deleted truck and some will. The race site has a video on the install and how to set it back to stock. Unless you emission testing most people just delete that shit after the warranty is up.
 

TrailTamer

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Hijack away.
Hijack continue…. :flipoff2:

How are new diesels (Duramax 6.6, Cummins 6.7 and the PowerStroke 6.7) like in the cold weather? 20*F and below kind of cold.

My dinosaur 12v Cummins is a bastard to get up to operating temperature. It will never warm up idling, I have to either idle it up high or just start driving to get any heat. It also will lose all heat if I left it idling with cab heater on without high idle at ~1,500 rpm.

I was shopping for a new/newer diesel until the pandemic hits. I’m kinda back in shopping status again. Undecided on which to get; F350 with the 7.3 or a Ram 3500 with the HO Cummins.
 

rockota

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I think DEF is more of an issue up north where we do more short runs, ideling, etc in the winter. Once the DEF has an issue it throws a code are starts a 150 mile countdown before going to 5 MPH max limp mode, so you have to go into the dealer in a hurry.

not sure that Ram is the same, but on my last f350, adding "some" DEF would not remove the countdown... the DEF tank had to be filled to 100% (maybe 90%+-) before it would reset. Yes... I paid $40 for 2 gallons of DEF at a dealer in Iowa. :shaking:
 

CarterKraft

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Hijack continue…. :flipoff2:

How are new diesels (Duramax 6.6, Cummins 6.7 and the PowerStroke 6.7) like in the cold weather? 20*F and below kind of cold.

My dinosaur 12v Cummins is a bastard to get up to operating temperature. It will never warm up idling, I have to either idle it up high or just start driving to get any heat. It also will lose all heat if I left it idling with cab heater on without high idle at ~1,500 rpm.

I was shopping for a new/newer diesel until the pandemic hits. I’m kinda back in shopping status again. Undecided on which to get; F350 with the 7.3 or a Ram 3500 with the HO Cummins.
This is the Ford solution 397 amp alternator and a resistive grid heater in the HVAC duct.
1642538680884.png
 

YotaAtieToo

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Hijack continue…. :flipoff2:

How are new diesels (Duramax 6.6, Cummins 6.7 and the PowerStroke 6.7) like in the cold weather? 20*F and below kind of cold.

My dinosaur 12v Cummins is a bastard to get up to operating temperature. It will never warm up idling, I have to either idle it up high or just start driving to get any heat. It also will lose all heat if I left it idling with cab heater on without high idle at ~1,500 rpm.

I was shopping for a new/newer diesel until the pandemic hits. I’m kinda back in shopping status again. Undecided on which to get; F350 with the 7.3 or a Ram 3500 with the HO Cummins.

I've noticed a few rams and GM's with grill blankets around here.

The new stuff has auto high idles and all kinds of shit too keep them warm. Not a diesel, but my wife's F150 has like blinds behind the grill to block airflow :laughing:

Remote start is the shit in the cold :smokin:
 

TrailTamer

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This is the Ford solution 397 amp alternator and a resistive grid heater in the HVAC duct.
1642538680884.png
I read about that when montrose made a thread asking how his new super duty have instant heat lol

This is neat, but will the new PSD 6.7 maintain its engine operating temperature while idling?

extended idling (fuck ca) with ECT falling below operating temperature can’t be good for any diesels due to wet stacking.
 

FordFascist

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I read about that when montrose made a thread asking how his new super duty have instant heat lol

This is neat, but will the new PSD 6.7 maintain its engine operating temperature while idling?

extended idling (fuck ca) with ECT falling below operating temperature can’t be good for any diesels due to wet stacking.

No. Diesels don't create heat when not under load. Not unique to modern diesels. You aren't supposed to let anything with EGR / DPF idle for an extended period of time. It says this in the owner's manual - the truck also tracks this and you can have warranty work denied because of extended idling.

My idiot boomer neighbor bought a 6.7 PSD so he can putt around town and he's had to have it towed to the dealer for the DPF and EGR cleaning three times already. He only has 40,000 miles on it. He lets it idle for 30 mins a day outside of his house.
 

rockota

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No. Diesels don't create heat when not under load. Not unique to modern diesels. You aren't supposed to let anything with EGR / DPF idle for an extended period of time. It says this in the owner's manual - the truck also tracks this and you can have warranty work denied because of extended idling.

My idiot boomer neighbor bought a 6.7 PSD so he can putt around town and he's had to have it towed to the dealer for the DPF and EGR cleaning three times already. He only has 40,000 miles on it. He lets it idle for 30 mins a day outside of his house.

how does Ford handle PTO-equipped vehicles?
 

CarterKraft

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how does Ford handle PTO-equipped vehicles?
I use elevated high idle (1100 rpm) via the built in PTO engine control.

I don't knowhow that works to keep ECT/EOT at operating or not.
The 6.7 has split cooling system for intercooler and engine combined with electric fan maybe it works?

The one time it cold enough to test it was so cold and our "untreated" fuel gelled so I couldn't start it to find out:shaking:
 

YotaAtieToo

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Fuck, every work truck ever idles all day long. Heat in winter and ac in summer.

Also, a lot of equipment doesn't get shut off all day. I've never seen any have issues with DEF because of it like the internet says. Not saying there aren't possible downsides to idling all day, but nothing like what people say online.
 

CarterKraft

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Fuck, every work truck ever idles all day long. Heat in winter and ac in summer.

Also, a lot of equipment doesn't get shut off all day. I've never seen any have issues with DEF because of it like the internet says. Not saying there aren't possible downsides to idling all day, but nothing like what people say online.
DEF doesn't give a F about idleing or temp issues. DEF has 3 parts, DEF pump, Injector and quality sensor inside the tank.
For the last three years the sensor in the tank has been a fucking nightmare on our equipment (CAT). Covid didn't help supply chain issues but the problem was already there.

EGR systems DO care about idling and WILL foul with wet carbon.

I am curious if my 4.10 gear truck has less problem with that vs. the 3.55/3.31 trucks do to higher temps and airflow but it's all a guess at this point.

Try not to idle the truck... Use the manufacturers high idle system to elevate idle speed if long idle times are needed.

That's another interesting trait of these trucks (Ford) they idle at 500 rpm.
 
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