2018 RZR XP R&T 4wd

[Wades_76_cj7]

So last weekend I did something to the 4wd in my RZR. First day it started making some growling noises when hard on the throttle in 4wd. I limped back to camp and figured it was a bad u joint. Ran into town to grab a couple Spicer joints for it. Friends pulled the DS while I did the parts run. When I get back they had the DS out and the joints were fine. Checked fluid in diff and trans and both were a little low. Diff only holds 8oz,trans was 3-4 oz low as well. Well shit. top them off and go try it out and nothing in 4wd. Light on the dash says it's engaged but it's not pulling. I rebuilt the diff 2 years ago, new bearings, seals, billet armature plate but didn't change the roll pin. I am really hoping that tiny little roll pin sheared and that is my issue. The spline cups have always weeped fluid in mine. Just nature of the beast on the R&T. There is an upgraded version now but the cheapest I can find is $500. The splines are getting kinda sloppy on mine so while I have it apart I may go ahead and replace them since it's a PITA to remove the diff with an in frame winch.

I'll get it torn apart in the next few days and see what I am dealing with.

 

[backchat]

sounds like a good time to clear her up and send her down the road so you can get that 72"...

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

sounds like a good time to clear her up and send her down the road so you can get that 72"...

that thought did cross my mind.. Turbo R here I come.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Finally getting around to working on this. Turns out it's not the front diff. Driveshaft turns while in park. ☹️

 

[Dan's EB]

Been there, done that. Unfortunately.



I think getting the transmission out was the hardest part. While I was there I put in a gear down kit and all new bearings.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Been there, done that. Unfortunately.



I think getting the transmission out was the hardest part. While I was there I put in a gear down kit and all new bearings.

I actually did the Sandcraft bearings back in January of this year. I had not done it before so I took it to a friend and he helped me. Well I helped him and watched. I am not sure the backlash was set properly when we put it back together. I watched a few YT videos on it this weekend and I don't remember going to no BL then backing off 3 notches in the snorkel tube.. Now that I have been into it though it's not near as intimidating. And you are correct. getting it in and out was the worst part. I have a good friend that is local to me that has a two post lift so I will definitely be using it this time.

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

Been there, done that. Unfortunately.



I think getting the transmission out was the hardest part. While I was there I put in a gear down kit and all new bearings.

how is the gear down kit performance wise?
that is something I have always wanted to do since day #1

and I like performance parts that you can not see

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

how is the gear down kit performance wise?
that is something I have always wanted to do since day #1

and I like performance parts that you can not see

three of my friends have their Turbo S regeared lower and it makes a huge difference on trail riding and rock crawling. so much more controllable on technical riding. I think they went with 26% lower. but don't quote me on it. I contemplated doing the 12% in mine since but I just don't have the extra $ to throw at it right now.

 

[Dan's EB]

I'm really happy with the kit. I run a short 32 inch tire so it works out I'm geared a bit lower than what it is stock with 29 inch tires.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Worked on this last night. Got everything unbolted with the exception of the trans mounting bolts. 4-5 bolts and it will be out. When I drained the trans fluid there was a ton of metal goo on the drain plug. some of the flakes were pretty good size but no chunks stuck to the magnet. Thankfully the case isn't busted. Will update with pics when I get the cases split.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

I think I found the problem.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

When I was working on this last night my buddy asked me how much this would cost if I had to pay a shop to do it. I told him I am not sure but I bet it would be north of $1k just in labor alone.. probably cheaper to buy a reman trans and just have them swap it out really. Thankfully I am somewhat mechanically inclined. I couldn't afford to do shit if I had to pay people to work on my junk.

So redneckK20s how much would your work charge to do this?

 

[redneckK20s]

Trans rebuild is typically 8 hours, so $800 at our rate. Over in your area I bet labor rates are at least $30-50 more so your estimate probably isn't wrong.

My best tech could probably do it in 6 but that's if all goes perfectly.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Trans is back in. While it was out I put in Rock Ready weld in bungs for the rear radius rods.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Worked on this after work yesterday. Got it all back together and go to bolt the secondary clutch on and can't find the damn bolt. WTF? I looked everywhere for the damn thing.. I ended up going to the dealer to get another. They had two in stock so I bought both to have a spare in the toolbox in case I broke or lost another.. $6 for a bolt is a bit steep but it is what it is. Bought a quart of AGL for the trans and that shit is $21 a quart now! Thankfully it holds about 1.25 quarts instead of a couple gallons!

Working today and I'll wrap this up tonight. I need to add the Sandcraft front diff shim kit as well while I have it on the lift.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Got this buttoned up yesterday. That Sandcraft diff shim fixed the downward pointed pinion that the XPs have. Much better driveline angle now. Took it for a ride down the gravel road and did a little trail in my buddy's back yard to test 4wd. seems to be working. I still need to put the new skid plate on as well. I'll put my KM3s on it and put some gravel road miles on it and a easy day trip to one of the new parks in central MO for a shakedown run.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Been driving back roads with the RZR to put a few miles on it before CO trip. Been getting a growl/vibe between 40-50mph. I greased the prop shaft, checked the fluid levels and still have it. I pulled the front section of driveshaft to eliminate that since I run a bolt and nylock nut instead of the roll pin. Still have it. The Rock and Trail are pretty well known for loose and leaking axle spline cups. Only thing I can figure is the CV axles are vibrating at 40-50 from the sloppy splines?

 

[redneckK20s]

Yeah that's common in Polaris', not just the R&T. Polaris swears if you pull and grease the ends regularly it won't happen but they're full of shit.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Yeah that's common in Polaris', not just the R&T. Polaris swears if you pull and grease the ends regularly it won't happen but they're full of shit.

my guess is the damn stub shafts are so short it makes the worn splines way more prone to vibes vs a longer stub shaft like the X3 have.

fuggit I am gonna run it. I need to check over the bolts again in the rear suspension and trans/motor mounts. I have a clunk when I drop into gear and hit the gas. I tightened up everything when I put it together or so I thought. doesn't mean i didn't miss a bolt somewhere i guess.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

You are going to run it with the inner CV's flopping around like that, what could possibly go wrong?

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

You are going to run it with the inner CV's flopping around like that, what could possibly go wrong?

only thing I know of to fix it is order new spline cups to the tune of $500+. Yes i know swapping them out would be better but it's not in the budget currently.

Partzilla

Checked with a friend that's got a BIL that owns a Polaris dealership. He's going to see what he can get me new spline cups for

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Got a price on new spline cups and a seal kit. Spline cups are $385 and the seal kit is $65ish. so around $450 for new parts. I'll get it ordered later this week.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

parts are on the way. hopefully i get them by the weekend. not gonna hold my breath though.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

I tore into this last night. The output hub bearings were bad on mine. I had replaced them a couple years ago with Fag bearings but to my surprise both sides had a catch in them when turning by hand. The passenger side moreso than the driver's. I got it all back together and replaced the last stock axle I had on the driver's front as well. I just wanted to eliminate any possibility. Rzr has 36xx miles on it and the inboard boot was a little twisted but the CV was intact. Well until I pulled it apart trying to get it out. The little circle clip that holds the axle in the diff broke when I got it out as well. I am still chasing a clicking noise when I put it in gear and first apply throttle. It does it in reverse and forward gears. Had a buddy drive it back and forth in his shop while I crawled over it with a flashlight. I think it's in the right rear so it will go back on the lift tonight when I get off work and chase that down. The clicking noise is only a couple clicks when torque is applied right at first. The axle on that corner is a Rhino 2 that's been in there a little over a year. I do have a spare I can put in it. I greased the wheel bearings when I had the trans out but honestly I didn't spin the bearings when I did so I will check the bearings as well.

So the plan for tonight is refill the front diff ( I forgot my diff fluid last night), check right rear hub assembly for loose bolts, bad wheel bearing and most likely swap out the right rear axle shaft if nothing else is wrong. I also need to change the engine oil as well.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Got the front diff refilled, changed the oil in the trans, it had 25 miles on it after the tear down and shaft replace. Installed the front section of prop shaft with a roll pin and took it for a drive. Front diff noise is gone but I am getting a clicking noise in the rear that is driving me crazy. I swapped out the right rear axle shaft, checked and tightened all the bolts for knuckle carrier, brake caliper mount, center bolts for rear radius rods. I even pulled the shifter shaft cover off the side of the trans to verify that I had the gears lined up properly. They are. Backlash for the snorkel gear feels correct. Buddy is helping me and we started pushing it back and forth in the garage and you can feel a click when holding the rear bumper and pushing. It feels and sounds like it's coming from the right rear tire/hub. Only thing that hasn't been replaced is the wheel bearing and it turns smooth and I just greased it.

I did notice that the spherical bearings in the right radius rod is stiff as hell. I ordered new spherical bearings from HL today. I am not sure what else to try? turn the stereo up and just fucking send it?