2014 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 - Stalls out when stopping

[Pony_Driver]

So I mostly have the 96 Foreman sorted and back together, so I picked up a '14 Brute Force 750.

It was sold as having a potential clogged fuel sock on the fuel pump and priced accordingly. It would backfire a little bit when revving. We ran around on it a bit the first night we had it and when coming to a quick stop it would cut out. Today I pulled the pump and replaced the sock. The old one wasn't horrible, but I put a new one on anyway since I was in there. It fired right up, but still stalls when stopping. I am still waiting for an IAC valve to be delivered. I have not pulled into the heads to check the valves yet. It fires right up when you hit the button. Anything you can think of that might be an issue or worth looking at? It has almost 4500 miles on it for reference.

 

[TxNTrK]

Check fuel pressure. Pump can be replaced by itself instead of whole assy. Belt has an actuator on it for tension. Maybe actuator or sticking clutch stalling engine at idle?

 

[Pony_Driver]

Check fuel pressure. Pump can be replaced by itself instead of whole assy. Belt has an actuator on it for tension. Maybe actuator or sticking clutch stalling engine at idle?

I will look into it. How do I do that? I don't know squat about ATVs. It has a new belt on it (supposedly) and I have the old one that isn't in terrible shape.

 

[TrikeKid]

Throttle body gummed up maybe? Happens on cars, they bypass a certain amount of air at idle and they get crudded up and the IAC can't compensate.

 

[Pony_Driver]

That is possible. IACs are known to be an issue so that's why a new one is going into the parts canon to throw at this one.

 

[Stix]

Twin right? Throttle body balance maybe.

 

[BillyBronco]

Those fuel pumps are crappy and cause lots of issues. I believe a Mule Pro uses the same fuel pump but just has a longer neck in the pump housing. I had issues with my Mule with under a 100 hours on it. Replaced just the pump in the housing and no issues in the 20 hours since.

The above information may have nothing to do with your current issue. Just brought up as evidence that the fuel pumps on those suck.

 

[Pony_Driver]

Throttle body gummed up maybe? Happens on cars, they bypass a certain amount of air at idle and they get crudded up and the IAC can't compensate.

I guess I will have to pull all of the plastics and tear into it. A baller heated and cooled garage would be nice for this. :D

Twin right? Throttle body balance maybe.

Yes, V-twin. How do I check that? I mean, I could hit it with my wallet and drag it to a repair shop, but that would probably cost as much as I paid for the thing.

Those fuel pumps are crappy and cause lots of issues. I believe a Mule Pro uses the same fuel pump but just has a longer neck in the pump housing. I had issues with my Mule with under a 100 hours on it. Replaced just the pump in the housing and no issues in the 20 hours since.

The above information may have nothing to do with your current issue. Just brought up as evidence that the fuel pumps on those suck.

Yeah, the fuel pump videos are everywhere on the youtubes. Some Canadian dude even said a 1993 Jeep pump for a V6 would work, you just have to modify it to fit in the tank. It's not terrible to get to the pump, but it isn't right there. I did not do a fuel flow test. It is supposed to pump 50cc's every time the key is turned on.

 

[NOODLES]

Wiring issue? Maybe the load of the brake lights is bringing voltage down too far. I have seen it on something as simple as a 4runner with no battery and a weak alternator, and also on small diesel engines with "open/hold on" fuel cut off solenoids. One was a small Kubota, someone had bent the bracket holding the solenoid so it would not achieve full stroke,and it is not strong trying to "hold on" with a partial stroke. So.something like operating a booster reel "it was a "type 5 fire engine" would kill the Kubota.

 

[1oddtech]

Yes, V-twin. How do I check that? I mean, I could hit it with my wallet and drag it to a repair shop

Ignore him, fuel injected quads are not balanced. Street bikes with carburators yes.

To me it sounds like the clutch is not fully releasing the belt when you come to a stop. How is it going into gear? Does it try and creep at idle in gear?

 

[Stix]

TB balance on fuel injected bikes is absolutely a thing. Maybe not on quads but it’s not just for carb bikes.

 

[Bogus One]

"still stalls when stopping."

Fuck it, just don't stop

 

[Pony_Driver]

Wiring issue? Maybe the load of the brake lights is bringing voltage down too far. I have seen it on something as simple as a 4runner with no battery and a weak alternator, and also on small diesel engines with "open/hold on" fuel cut off solenoids. One was a small Kubota, someone had bent the bracket holding the solenoid so it would not achieve full stroke,and it is not strong trying to "hold on" with a partial stroke. So.something like operating a booster reel "it was a "type 5 fire engine" would kill the Kubota.

No idea man. It fires right back up when it stalls.

Ignore him, fuel injected quads are not balanced. Street bikes with carburators yes.

To me it sounds like the clutch is not fully releasing the belt when you come to a stop. How is it going into gear? Does it try and creep at idle in gear?

It's a belt drive so no creep unless you spin it enough to engage the clutches.

Here is the belt. Not only does it look to be out of spec for deflection, it's also on backwards. That highly accurate measuring method mic'd out at .375 One of the three mounting pieces on the left looks to be cracked too. I replaced the IAC before tearing into this and it seemed to help the idle but it will still stall on occasion. The brake light comes on any time it is running. This could be normal, but I don't know.

 

[1oddtech]

Sorry I should have said primary clutch not releasing

 

[LittleMan]

No idea man. It fires right back up when it stalls.

It's a belt drive so no creep unless you spin it enough to engage the clutches.

Here is the belt. Not only does it look to be out of spec for deflection, it's also on backwards. That highly accurate measuring method mic'd out at .375 One of the three mounting pieces on the left looks to be cracked too. I replaced the IAC before tearing into this and it seemed to help the idle but it will still stall on occasion. The brake light comes on any time it is running. This could be normal, but I don't know.

You would be surprised how many problems are solved with the factory belt properly installed. Only problem I had on a ‘06 for 7500mi was a cracked inake boot. Didn’t idle for shit but wfo was happy. They’re pretty solid machines. 90* v twin makes good torque. My buddy still has it. Now I want it back. Thanks.