What's new
By:
Filters

2005 Dodge CTD - hard start if batteries are low?

vetteboy79

vetteboy79

It's bent. #ttb
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
305
Messages
693
Loc
Morganville, NJ
Pretty much all stock 2005 CTD, call it 300k miles.

It's had an electrical draw for the last 10+ years so if I don't keep a tender on it, the batteries will go flat, over the course of a week or two. It's fine if I leave it on its own for a day or weekend.

Used to be that if the batteries were marginal, as long as it would crank over a few times it'd still fire off. Now it seems like if the batteries aren't completely topped off it'll just crank until there's no juice left.

Even with fresh batteries, maybe I'm just noticing it more but seems like it takes longer to start.

Is there some component (fuel pump, sensor, etc) that becomes more sensitive to voltage over time? With the exception of one injector line the fuel system is all factory, I've never changed anything on it.

Kinda thinkin it sounds like a fuel pump on its way out but figured I'd ask if anyone else has ran into this.
 
Have you ever checked the battery cable the connects the two batteries that runs along the radiator support?
It's a common failure and causes all kinds of strange crap.
 
^^ This. I know on my 6.5TDs that the condition of the battery cables was an issue. I've replaced them with 2/0 welding cable and quality terminals and that made a significant difference.

The other issue is that the batteries tend to "fight" each other if they sit for longer periods of time. Having a disconnect helped, but I wired in a NOCO Genius GEN5X2, 2-Bank, 10-Amp onboard charger for each truck. It makes it really easy to just plug an extension cord in to "top off" the batteries if it has sat for awhile / will be sitting for awhile.
 
I suspect you’ve got a weak lift pump and your batteries and your parasitic draw have nothing to do with it . Separate symptoms for separate problems .
 
Maybe applicable..

I know my 04 hemi will crank like crazy, but won't fire if the battery isn't 100%

ECM says FU

Somewhat common on the gas trucks.

Dunno if the same on diesels
 
On the crd if u have a long cranking with good batteries its the injectors, expecially if yours r original at 300k. They can be tested to verify and i would have them checked. They can wash the cyl walls and burn up the rings.
 
I just did a FASS system on my 06. There is a fuel filter below the pump in the tank. Mine looked terrible. Lots of junk at 120k. I bet your looks worse at 300k.
 
fwiw on my 12v cummins i added a second 0 gauge wire going from the battery to the starter so there is two and it made the starter crank over much faster
 
Clean or replace battery terminals, or even entire cable if questionable.

Rebuild or replace the starter if still original.

I was blown away on how much faster a new starter crank it over despite the old one was still working.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PAE
I'm a fan of huge 4/0 battery cables, Positive and Negative, also treat ends and clean when nasty or actually before it gets that way.

Remember what my name was on the old place! , worked for that place for 20 years off and on and yeah at least some of what I was taught I still remember.
 
Wizzle said:
Where did you joint the other end? On the second battery?
Click to expand...
its a 1st gen so only 1 battery under the hood, both go to the same military style battery terminal. however i did add a second battery in the rear of the truck on the frame rail behind the rear pass tire for my crane

i have two negative cables too, one goes to the engine the other the frame
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh