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2003 -2006 RAM 2500 & 3500 with the 5.9L Cummins

SanDiegoCJ

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I'm thinking about acquiring a 2003 - 2006 with the 5.9L Cummins. I had a 2003 with the NV4500 years ago and was happy with it.
It only had appx 45K miles when I sold it, so no high mileage experience. How many miles are the 5.9L Cummins good for ?
I know the autos weren't the best, especially the early 2003's with the 47RE. I've heard the 48RE was better as long as it wasn't
used to tow heavy trailers. Not interested in a 2007 and up with the 6.7L and all the smog shit or the older pre 2003. Thoughts ?
 
you can pretty much count on a 5.9 going 3-400,000 miles, and while the injectors and such will likely need to be replaced the engine's are pretty bulletproof...presuming of course they haven't been treated like a car and 'hot-rodded'/juiced up, which while fun is very hard on parts. Biggest thing I look for is 1) no blow-by (set oil fil cap on fill hole upside down - if it 'blows off' don't buy it), and 2) all 'stock' under the hood and not 'deleted'. Maintenance records are always nice to at least hear about from the seller. I change oil at every 5k miles and fuel filters at every 10k.

The auto's pretty much need a rebuild at 200-250k, the two servos in the VB being needed soonest. Otherwise the 48RE's are pretty stout, again so long as they haven't been subject to a juiced up engine. The rear diffs pretty much need an inspection at 150k, a rebuild at 200-250k. Anything else is normal maintenance (water pump, belts, etc)
 
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you can pretty much count on a 5.9 going 3-400,000 miles, and while the injectors and such will likely need to be replaced the engine's are pretty bulletproof...presuming of course they haven't been treated like a car and 'hot-rodded'/juiced up, which while fun is very hard on parts. Biggest thing I look for is 1) no blow-by (set oil fil cap on fill hole upside down - if it 'blows off' don't buy it), and 2) all 'stock' under the hood and not 'deleted'. Maintenance records are always nice to at least hear about from the seller. I change oil at every 5k miles and fuel filters at every 10k.

The auto's pretty much need a rebuild at 200-250k, the two servos in the VB being needed soonest. Otherwise the 48RE's are pretty stout, again so long as they haven't been subject to a juiced up engine. The rear diffs pretty much need an inspection at 150k, a rebuild at 200-250k. Anything else is normal maintenance (water pump, belts, etc)

I'd planned on staying away from anything that was modified or used for towing a heavy trailer for most of it's life. Good to know about how to check for blow-by.
 
Probably the top filters are:
Oil Filter - Fleetguard LF16035
Fuel filter: Baldwin PF7977 (5 micron)

On oil I prefer dino, usually Valvoline Premium Blue or Rotella T4. Synthetic oils are good, but diesel oil gets dirty (sooty) pretty quickly and to keep the engine clean I change oil at every 5k miles, and because I change oil much more frequently than the synthetics 'require' I use the just-as-good and cheaper dino oil...
 
Second on the Baldwin Filter
Oil I'll run Rotela or whatever Cummins recommends.
I also run diesel kleen to keep the fuel system happy.
My 48RE has been pretty decent so far, but I understand why they skipped to 5 and 6 speed autos as they need an extra gear with 4.10's Its been flawless otherwise.

My 2005 has no cat and some no name stainless exhaust. Next spring I'm going to put a bigger muffler and some sound deadening into the cab to get the noise level down to my father's straight piped 7.3.
 
Second on the Baldwin Filter
Oil I'll run Rotela or whatever Cummins recommends.
I also run diesel kleen to keep the fuel system happy.
My 48RE has been pretty decent so far, but I understand why they skipped to 5 and 6 speed autos as they need an extra gear with 4.10's Its been flawless otherwise.

My 2005 has no cat and some no name stainless exhaust. Next spring I'm going to put a bigger muffler and some sound deadening into the cab to get the noise level down to my father's straight piped 7.3.

The 2003 I had also ran 4.10:1 diff gears. It would have been a real dog with the 3.73:1 gears.
 
The 2003 I had also ran 4.10:1 diff gears. It would have been a real dog with the 3.73:1 gears.

I didn't say I didn't like them, I just don't like running 2250rpm at 80mph, a better (or second) OD would help that. I don't really run the stereo I run a pair of wireless earbuds that cuts down on cab "hum" from the exhaust. Mileage drops dramatically once I get past 70mph. Don't mind it as a commuter as it gets 20mpg where I'm at. My old Sierra with its 5.3 didn't even do that good.


Like I said next year I need to do some sound deadening and an exhaust change to cut down on cab noise. I'm hoping to get it down below my dad's 5" straight piped 7.3. That would be nice because his sounds stock in the cab.
 
Add early 2007 trucks to your list. The 6.7 was a midyear change. I have an '07 that still has the 5.9. Mine has 3.73s.
 
Add early 2007 trucks to your list. The 6.7 was a midyear change. I have an '07 that still has the 5.9. Mine has 3.73s.

our '07 has the 5.9, and it has the 'new' G56 (with the .74 od gear, 'AE' at the end of the pn) that was built to go behind the 6.7 - a nice perk. Even so, however, with the OE-sized 31's it turns about 2400 rpm doing 80, which is why we're putting 33's on it next change...
 
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our '07 has the 5.9, and it has the 'new' G56 (with the .74 od gear, 'AE' at the end of the pn) that was built to go behind the 6.7 - a nice perk. Even so, however, with the OE-sized 31's it turns about 2400 rpm doing 80, which is why we're putting 33's on it next change...

What is your theory that is was "built to go behind the 6.7L" ? Is was introduced in 2004.5 and the DMF sucks more than OP. Not bad once you swap out the ATF for synthetic 50wt, overfill a qt, and run a solid (nv5600 style) flywheel. The gear rollover was insane with the ATF.
 
what I meant was the AE trans was simply the newest version that was introduced for the 6.7l engines, tho some of the last 5.9's got them, and apparently mine is one of them. That could be incorrect of course - just what I've understood for a while now. As far as how it shifts, mine shifts like warm butter - perfectly smooth and precise, and AFAIK it has ATF in it. I do have a couple gallons of Delvac 50 gear oil I heard was pretty good in them but mine shifts so well I'm not sure I wanna change it.
 
There were a few threads on this on the old site, most people talk highly of their 3rd gen ram, but I've seen too many stock trucks with engines scattered by 200k, too many injector failures washing out cylinders at 120k, and too many "for sale, all stock, new engine at 124k" 3rd gen dodges to want to mess with them.
It seems that they might have gotten injector issues sorted out just prior to screwing them all up with emissions.
You see 400k mile 24v dodges and 7.3 Ford's, and 200k common rails with heads and pistons in milk crates in the bed. No thanks

this is where everybody that has 140k on there's tells me it's the best truck ever, or somebody didn't change their fuel filters, to me, they're lemons

about 2015+ they seem well sorted out
 
this is where everybody that has 140k on there's tells me it's the best truck ever, or somebody didn't change their fuel filters, to me, they're lemons

Lots of personal experience there huh :flipoff2:

The 5.9CR isnt a 6 oh no that will try to kill itself at any moment. The CP3 has proven to be damn reliable, and if you cant tell youre losing an injector (or turbo) then you shouldnt own a diesel. The long block itself it solid. Theres some quirks I hate about the 3rd gen truck and could write a wall off text with the ~400k I've put in the seat. But it would fall on deaf ears.

You cant go wrong with a clean and stock 5.9CR, 7.3L SD, or LBZ (arguably a LLY too).

The rest of the trucks are a crap shoot. You may get 20k, or it may run till 400k. After working for CDJ stealership, fuck fiat and any Ram pickup. I saw way too much silly shit make a truck come in on a wrecker.
 
projectjunkie, 24v vs 12v?
It's not uncommon to see 350k 12v or 24v trucks, and occasionally 400k+ of either, the 24v has more electronics, so I'd be wary of a rusty truck, or one that has spliced harness etc. They have lift pump problems that take out injection pumps, but that can be addressed
you'll pay a premium for a p7100 12v, but could put that money towards a nicer 24v and a lift pump

Lots of personal experience there huh :flipoff2:

The 5.9CR isnt a 6 oh no that will try to kill itself at any moment. The CP3 has proven to be damn reliable, and if you cant tell youre losing an injector (or turbo) then you shouldnt own a diesel. The long block itself it solid. Theres some quirks I hate about the 3rd gen truck and could write a wall off text with the ~400k I've put in the seat. But it would fall on deaf ears.

You cant go wrong with a clean and stock 5.9CR, 7.3L SD, or LBZ (arguably a LLY too).

The rest of the trucks are a crap shoot. You may get 20k, or it may run till 400k. After working for CDJ stealership, fuck fiat and any Ram pickup. I saw way too much silly shit make a truck come in on a wrecker.

The funny thing when I share this pinion of these trucks on the net, is the people who own them and are happy with them argue I don't have personal experience.

Do I have to write the check for a new engine with my own hand to notice a trend? I don't need to marry a stripper to know it's a bad idea:laughing::laughing:

Before I bought my beater DD, I got on car-part.com and checked supply and demand on engines, transmissions transfer cases and rear differentials. The market says there is little demand for these used components, and that my DD is unlikely to experience a major failure.

You buy the trucks you want to buy. I ran into another 300k lly this morning, buddy just bought it, ran like a top. Honestly sounded just as smooth as my 106k lly idling next to it. I bought a 300k 12v last week, runs like a top. I'm not spending my money on common rail dodges, but you do you
 
I had a 97 12v but the rest of the truck is SO outdated and shitty to drive that I sold it. My only reason for going to a newer cummins would be to get an overall better truck - steering, brakes, interior, etc. 2015 is a pretty penny, but if its a better ROI than a 2008 truck, I guess that makes sense
 
I had a 97 12v but the rest of the truck is SO outdated and shitty to drive that I sold it. My only reason for going to a newer cummins would be to get an overall better truck - steering, brakes, interior, etc. 2015 is a pretty penny, but if its a better ROI than a 2008 truck, I guess that makes sense

it did seem they got sorted out 07-08ish then the emissions years fucked up all trucks

It seemed the problem was with injectors causing internal engine damage. Many will deny any factory shortcomings, but I'm sure somebody somewhere has pinpointed the issues.

FWIW I'm pretty happy with my clean older trucks, one is low mileage, and prepping for paint, the other has new paint and inteior. Also, I only tow 8-9k lbs regularly, and all of my big dumb loads have been back roads. I could see a guy regularly towing heavier wanting more power, bigger brakes, bigger wheels, factory exhaust brake more gears etc

I do casually watch and would consider picking up a clean ccsb f250 6.2 gas xlt or higher if I ever really itch for a newer cowboy Cadillac.
 
the problen is that a nice clean older truck is top dollar, and fuck paying 20k for a 23 year old truck. No matter how clean it is, brakes steering and interior still suck.

the more time i spend looking and thinking, the more i want a newer truck with an older engine.
 
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we love our '07 - it has 81,000 miles on the odo and the 5.9 runs like a top, and the G56 shifts like butter. It's 'new' enough to have the creature comforts we want yet also 'old' enough to work on. It's in great overall condition and is about as good a tug boat as we could ask for. To me, all things considered these 06-07 3rd gens with the 5.9 are about as good as it gets, and even if we had the disposable cash to buy a 4th gen I'm really not sure we would - all the electric gismo's and not to mention all the emissions crap just mean more things I have no control over, nor want, and I don't like to fly that way...
 
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Do I have to write the check for a new engine with my own hand to notice a trend? I don't need to marry a stripper to know it's a bad idea:laughing::laughing:

:rolleyes:

Of course you dont marry a stripper. You ALWAYS go back to her place. Pretend to be amused by the framed associates degree from university of Phoenix and 3 cats in her apartment. Abuse it, maybe a few more times for good measure, then move on. So basically just like a 300k GM. First impression is it runs and looks good. Then you find out the previous owner(s) wore it out and theres some serious issues about to come out of left field.

If you had any first hand experience, youd know this. Instead you just look at the pics online :flipoff2:
 
I'm not sure what your point is, was it that you like your cr dodge and I've never owned one? Cuz I addressed that argument earlier :laughing:


you buy your trucks, I'll buy mine:usa:
 
i have an 07 megacab currently. 5.9 g56 combo. its sitting at just over 450,000 miles. engine is all original except for injectors that were done last year by previous owner as he wanted a little bigger and was changing the as preventative maintenance. rest of drivetrain has never been touched other than maintenance. at this point i just had the front diff pinion bearing fail. at this mileage though i cant complain. im the third owner of the truck and know all the history. The first owner used it to haul new campers across the country and put the original 380,000 miles on it. truck has no blowby and gets regular blackstone reports to keep an eye on the engine but it always comes back as good. has ran rotella t6 5w-40 since new.

this is my third commonrail truck but ive had 22 12v and 24v between first and second gens. 3rd gens are definetly nicer and more creature comforts. cant go wrong with the older trucks through. Commonrails are known to have injector issues but thats easy to keep an eye on, just run and upgraded fuel filter setup and most dont have issues. if you go auto the 48re is also a more stout trans than the previous generations but still dont hold much power over stock. In the end they all have theyre issues regardless of brand or generation, you just have to figure out what they are to try and prevent the issues. The nice thing about third gens is they have a broader aftermarket compared to the earlier generations.
 
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