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2002 TuRD

YotaAtieToo said:
I'm sure it would have helped some.

I'd think a tube structure with bed skins would be sweet also. But a regular truck bed is just handy.
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chaplinfj60 said:
you could do both... win!!!
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After seeing some tube beds with bedsides in person this would be exactly what I don't need for this truck. IMO it has no positive over the stock bed for what I do with the truck, all with the added bonus of a shit load of work. I'm not a talented enough fabricator to make one look nice and the ones that I have seen that have been built in garages look like total ass compared to the real nice ones we all drool over. I mean I currently have 2 6"x6" holes in the bed and I constantly have shit random falling through it, I can only imagine having what is basically a flat bed with bedsides screwed to it.

I could achieve a similar level of rigidity with an xbrace from where the frame levels out after it turns up back to the shackle mounts, unless I'm envisioning that wrong? I could also add some gussets to the gas tank crossmember I have to build as well.
 
I doubt you'll have any issues with lateral stress.

I think they were more talking vertical and twisting stress. Even then, it should be way better than stock, but it's kinda a "while you're there" mentality.

I like the idea of running a tube along the top or inside of the bed rail then tieing into the frame. Wouldn't prevent dents obviously, but would help from the bed completely folding in.
 
Sschassisworx said they could do the project, so I'm going to try to get down there next weekend to have them measure everything up and start bending some rails. I have a wheeling trip to Hawks Pride at the end of the month, and then one more local forum ride a week later then it's time to start chopping!! Excited!!
 
If you’re spending that much…

Do.
The.
Full.
Frame.
:flipoff2:
 
I've got shock hoops going thru my bed on the 4Runner. Actually one of the best things I've done
Been thinking about some kind of stitching up some kind of boot to snap place to keep shit in and out of the bed.

Where is the failure point in the frame should dictate what direction you pursue?

Sub'd for sawzall time :smokin:
 
rugburn said:
I've got shock hoops going thru my bed on the 4Runner. Actually one of the best things I've done
Been thinking about some kind of stitching up some kind of boot to snap place to keep shit in and out of the bed.

Where is the failure point in the frame should dictate what direction you pursue?

Sub'd for sawzall time :smokin:
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My frame bent on both sides right under the rear cab mount, which is odd to me. That whole area is going to be fish plates anyway as that's where I am aiming to join the factory frame up to the new rear section.

I was an idiot when I chopped into the bed and had the shocks poking out, with my current shock setup (7100 12" short bodies) I can just lean them back a bit and have them right up against the bottom of the bed and achieve the same travel without the annoying ness of 2 holes and shocks sticking up into the bed.

I'm getting excited to start chopping in a month or so!
 
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Went wheeling at hawk pride in Alabama. Probably my favorite park I have been to so far. Very big sandstone rocks, in the woods, not many death climbs with ledges that are all over the SE which is nice! No issues besides my pax side rear leaf spring is finally done, it's sagging BAD. As usual, drove 8hrs, wheeled all the hard trails and drove it 8hrs home drama free.
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Tech time, sorry if this is newbie shit but maybe someone will learn something from it. So here is how I measured for the new rear frame rails. I first picked a belly height to level the truck off at, I went with 23 1/4" as that's what it measured out to at the tcase cross member, so right under the driver's seat.
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The truck looks like it's not level but that's because my truck is banana shaped starting at the rear body mount.
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Then I busted out the plumb bob and started marking up the floor:
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Here is what I ended up with, I'm going to remeasure tomorrow, recreate in power point and save as a PDF and send to the shop Monday
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New frame rails 2x4x.180 mandrel bent out of one piece. I'm chopping it a little aft of the horse collar.
 
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Well considering I have bent this frame multiple times, im down for overkill!!
 
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I get it, but Its easy to get carried away wieght wieght. Are you planning on tieing the cage into the frame behind the cab at all? Or ending at the c pillar?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I get it, but Its easy to get carried away wieght wieght. Are you planning on tieing the cage into the frame behind the cab at all? Or ending at the c pillar?
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My front frame rails are .188 and I have been really happy with them. I get the weight part but at this point I'm going for strength over lightness. As for the cage I don't know, im going to pay a shop to build a cage for it so it depends on what they think. I'm thinking of tying an exo into rectangular tube welded to the rockers. I have a friend who did that and likes it. I really only do slow speed rock crawling so a cage doesn't need to withstand a million rolls at speed. The cabs are so tiny I don't want to be hospitalized in a slow speed crash on the street. I also tore a slider off the frame a few years ago and now I don't trust cages tied into sliders welded to the frame. I know dick about cages so I may be 100% off on all my assumptions there.
 
Slander said:
My front frame rails are .188 and I have been really happy with them. I get the weight part but at this point I'm going for strength over lightness. As for the cage I don't know, im going to pay a shop to build a cage for it so it depends on what they think. I'm thinking of tying an exo into rectangular tube welded to the rockers. I have a friend who did that and likes it. I really only do slow speed rock crawling so a cage doesn't need to withstand a million rolls at speed. The cabs are so tiny I don't want to be hospitalized in a slow speed crash on the street. I also tore a slider off the frame a few years ago and now I don't trust cages tied into sliders welded to the frame. I know dick about cages so I may be 100% off on all my assumptions there.
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Fwiw, I used 2x3x188 on the front of my 4runner and 2x4x120 on the back. I chose what somewhat matched the factory frame. 2x4x120 is already thicker and stronger than what is there. 99% of Toyota guys have zero issues with the factory frame.

My thoughts with tieing the cage into the frame behind the cab was to get some triangulation when looking at it from the side. You'll get 10x's the strength there vs going from 120 to 188.


Another consideration, which may be just me over thinking, is flex. No matter what, you're going to have some flex. I'd think 120 would flex more similar to the stock frame that under the cab, 188 will be more rigid. I'd think flexing together would be stronger over all. The point you tie them together will be the most critical obviously.

I totally get not wanting to worry at all, especially with the time and money you'll have wrapped up into it.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Fwiw, I used 2x3x188 on the front of my 4runner and 2x4x120 on the back. I chose what somewhat matched the factory frame. 2x4x120 is already thicker and stronger than what is there. 99% of Toyota guys have zero issues with the factory frame.

My thoughts with tieing the cage into the frame behind the cab was to get some triangulation when looking at it from the side. You'll get 10x's the strength there vs going from 120 to 188.


Another consideration, which may be just me over thinking, is flex. No matter what, you're going to have some flex. I'd think 120 would flex more similar to the stock frame that under the cab, 188 will be more rigid. I'd think flexing together would be stronger over all. The point you tie them together will be the most critical obviously.

I totally get not wanting to worry at all, especially with the time and money you'll have wrapped up into it.
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I thought about all and talking with some friends with a similar setup Tacoma without fucked frames but an exo there may be some truth to that. However I don't want a jungle gym back there and I think the extra frame beef will allow me to get the strength I want without all that tubing going back to the bed. I actually think this will be lighter than some of the jungle gyms/tube beds I see people building. I thought about the flexing part as well, I think I will be ok with the stock frame sections between what's new f/r. If not I'll be plating all that LOL!!

Man who would have thought wheeling trails a few difficulty levels higher than what the truck is built for 15yrs would stress the factory components!
 
I looked at the factory frame diagram I had out of the fsm and noticed my rear most frame rail point was only a 4" and change difference from where the bend begins. It's supposed to be 7". So back to the garage:
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I got it within 2" and just added the rest to the numbers I'm sending over. It's getting a butt lift when this is all said and done:laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo I just did the math and it's a 31lb difference total, .188 vs .120. Not much in the grand scheme of things. I have no idea what the factory tin foil weighs per ft.
 
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I get what you are saying about getting too many tubes going into the bed area. 31 lbs isn't much, and if you don't plan to add anything else back there it's probably worth it.

You sure you don't want to find a stock, non banana'd, truck to take measurements off of? :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I get what you are saying about getting too many tubes going into the bed area. 31 lbs isn't much, and if you don't plan to add anything else back there it's probably worth it.

You sure you don't want to find a stock, non banana'd, truck to take measurements off of? :laughing:
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LOL! I have the factory frame diagram from the FSM with all the measuring and reference points, I have been cross referencing that with my meadurements.
 
There a guy on CL in East TN that advertises frames for sale.

If it helps
 
rockota said:
There a guy on CL in East TN that advertises frames for sale.

If it helps
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Why do I need to root around someone's yard when I have a copy of the factory frame diagram with floor to top of frame measurements on something that I'm modifying anyway?:flipoff2:

Don't you have an LS swap to perform because a water pump is kinda hard to get to? :flipoff2:
 
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