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2002 TuRD

Awesome Taco and thread 🍻
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Wheeling pics from Potts mountain VA from earlier in the month. Kind of an easy point to point trail, but with some obstacle offshoots. Nothing that hard but fun trail and awesome scenery, not evrey trip has to be hill killing and obstacles in a park:
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Heading to another park in VA next week, man I love living somewhere where I can consistently go wheeling!!
 
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I used the elocker last week.



It makes the driveway easier. :flipoff2:
 
Went wheeling a few weekends ago at Kairos resort on the VA/WV boarder. Cool place, nothing real hard but the scenery felt like you were wheeling through Jurassic park. Lots of slow crawling though creek beds which is fun to me.
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Rained the whole time, sucked for the Jeep guys, fine for me LOL!!
 
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Pulled a battery out of one of the DD's today and played with the Bun trail welder. Ran some test beads on a rusty mill scale piece of angle I had, didn't clean anything. I got the adjustable speed model and glad I did, it has a ton of balls as well. Thanks to JimmyJet10 and 4x4toyotatyler as I learned about this welder from the podcast.
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Ran a few beads to dial it in a bit, then came inside as its hot and humid as hell.
 
I've been happy with mine on the premier welder, but I think I'm going to get the battery version too so that I can run it when I'm out farting around in the f150. Or hand it off to someone when at camp and tell them to just bring it back when they are done so I can drink my white claws
 
No more CB, I joined the cool kids and installed a GMRS radio. I never could get the CB to work worth a shit in this truck and barely in my yj before this. In all fairness I had a free antenna and a CB free radio. Added bonus I get to ditch the 5ft whip antenna and not look a Carolina squat fag.

Radio fit nicely under the "center console"
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Don't know if I'm going to keep the stealth antenna or the rugged radios one, I'll have to test it on the trail. I know the online antenna experts will probably shit that it's so close to the cab, but it's the place that's least likely the get damaged and I still use this as a truck so it won't get in the way here.
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Mic will get mounted to the center console as I have too many cords and shit already hanging off my dash/getting in the way of my shifters.
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Any tips for getting a seized TRE to break loose in the tie rod? I soaked it in PB, I heated it with a map gas torch, hit it with a hammer while cranking on it with a pipe wrench, any more tips?
 
Slander said:
Any tips for getting a seized TRE to break loose in the tie rod? I soaked it in PB, I heated it with a map gas torch, hit it with a hammer while cranking on it with a pipe wrench, any more tips?
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Get some Kroil.

Sometimes just give it a day and come back to it.

You can also try putting two nuts on the end, and hitting the outer one with an impact. Goal would be to spin the tie rod itself. It will break all the rust loose.
 
I'll have to pick some up, I can get most shit broken free with just the map gas torch and some pb blaster, but damn this fucker is stuck good. I can't believe my dumbass didn't anti seize this side when I swapped TREs. The other side spins nice and freely.
 
Pull that stuck bitch and save it for spares.
Build a new tie rod.

There’s wheeling’ to be had 🍺
 
I'm prepping to redo the back half of the frame after the end of the fall wheeling season. I have convinced myself not to do a full frame swap because that will turn into a never ending project and I have been having too much fun actually wheeling. My rear frame rails are a rusty mess, they are bent in multiple directions, the rear end of truck looks like it's melting off and the spring hangars are starting to crack off the frame and are held on by a series of patches. So my plans are:
  • Chop the rear frame off at the rear most cab mount, this would eliminate all my frame rot and twisted/dented frame rails
  • Get new 2x3 (or 4) frame rails bent up by SSchassisworx who is kind of local to me
  • Raise the fuel tank
  • Chevy 63s
  • Redo my shock mounts so they aren't poking through the bed, the worst thing I ever did to the truck IMO
  • Air bumps because I need internet cool points, and I love them in the front
  • Keep the full length bed
I want to keep the stock bed since bobbed beds look stupid and I don't have a trailer so I have to haul all my camping gear and coolers to the park/trail and I like having space. The more I think about it, a flat/tube bed has nothing but limitations over my dented up stock bed. After all the frame work is done the trucks going to get some sort of cage installed by a shop since I suck at tube.

So what says irate? Shred up my build plan:flipoff2:
 
Slander said:
I'm prepping to redo the back half of the frame after the end of the fall wheeling season. I have convinced myself not to do a full frame swap because that will turn into a never ending project and I have been having too much fun actually wheeling. My rear frame rails are a rusty mess, they are bent in multiple directions, the rear end of truck looks like it's melting off and the spring hangars are starting to crack off the frame and are held on by a series of patches. So my plans are:
  • Chop the rear frame off at the rear most cab mount, this would eliminate all my frame rot and twisted/dented frame rails
  • Get new 2x3 (or 4) frame rails bent up by SSchassisworx who is kind of local to me
  • Raise the fuel tank
  • Chevy 63s
  • Redo my shock mounts so they aren't poking through the bed, the worst thing I ever did to the truck IMO
  • Air bumps because I need internet cool points, and I love them in the front
  • Keep the full length bed
I want to keep the stock bed since bobbed beds look stupid and I don't have a trailer so I have to haul all my camping gear and coolers to the park/trail and I like having space. The more I think about it, a flat/tube bed has nothing but limitations over my dented up stock bed. After all the frame work is done the trucks going to get some sort of cage installed by a shop since I suck at tube.

So what says irate? Shred up my build plan:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

That will be cool to have the rails bent up. I liked 2x4x120 for my 4runner rear frame. Good balance between strength and wieght imo.

You going to move the fuel tank? Maybe you did and I missed it:homer:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
That will be cool to have the rails bent up. I liked 2x4x120 for my 4runner rear frame. Good balance between strength and wieght imo.

You going to move the fuel tank? Maybe you did and I missed it:homer:
Click to expand...
I'm going to raise it, you can raise it up above the frame rails without a body lift on the Tacomas. I thought about an f150 tank behind the axle, but frankly I want to only be worrying about the tailights behind the rear axle. I don't want it in the bed because I have an action packer back there for spares and tools. My fuel tank also keeps me from bending up my driveshaft.

I like the 120 wall, should be plenty strong with a few crossmembers but still give enough so I'm not cracking anything. I also figure 3/16 fish plates like what's holding my front frame rails on to attached everything to the stock frame.
 
Slander said:
I'm going to raise it, you can raise it up above the frame rails without a body lift on the Tacomas. I thought about an f150 tank behind the axle, but frankly I want to only be worrying about the tailights behind the rear axle. I don't want it in the bed because I have an action packer back there for spares and tools. My fuel tank also keeps me from bending up my driveshaft.
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As long as it's flat with the frame, who cares. The trucks aren't near as bad as the 4runners.

Slander said:
I like the 120 wall, should be plenty strong with a few crossmembers but still give enough so I'm not cracking anything. I also figure 3/16 fish plates like what's holding my front frame rails on to attached everything to the stock frame.
Click to expand...

On my 4runner, it worked out that a piece of 3/16 or 1/4 slide on the outside of the new frame and inside the stock frame, worked well.

I'd also add some flat bar to the bottom to increase the thickness of the joint. I didn't do this on mine, but after learning more about frame joints, it makes sense.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
As long as it's flat with the frame, who cares. The trucks aren't near as bad as the 4runners.



On my 4runner, it worked out that a piece of 3/16 or 1/4 slide on the outside of the new frame and inside the stock frame, worked well.

I'd also add some flat bar to the bottom to increase the thickness of the joint. I didn't do this on mine, but after learning more about frame joints, it makes sense.
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Agree on the bottom of the frame. I dented my drivers side frame BAD a few years ago so that definately needs some beef, and I wonder if flat bar along the bottom would have helped prevent my frame from twisting last year.
 
Slander said:
I'm prepping to redo the back half of the frame after the end of the fall wheeling season. I have convinced myself not to do a full frame swap because that will turn into a never ending project and I have been having too much fun actually wheeling. My rear frame rails are a rusty mess, they are bent in multiple directions, the rear end of truck looks like it's melting off and the spring hangars are starting to crack off the frame and are held on by a series of patches. So my plans are:
  • Chop the rear frame off at the rear most cab mount, this would eliminate all my frame rot and twisted/dented frame rails
  • Get new 2x3 (or 4) frame rails bent up by SSchassisworx who is kind of local to me
  • Raise the fuel tank
  • Chevy 63s
  • Redo my shock mounts so they aren't poking through the bed, the worst thing I ever did to the truck IMO
  • Air bumps because I need internet cool points, and I love them in the front
  • Keep the full length bed
I want to keep the stock bed since bobbed beds look stupid and I don't have a trailer so I have to haul all my camping gear and coolers to the park/trail and I like having space. The more I think about it, a flat/tube bed has nothing but limitations over my dented up stock bed. After all the frame work is done the trucks going to get some sort of cage installed by a shop since I suck at tube.

So what says irate? Shred up my build plan:flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Do entire frame. This site isn't about you, it's about us. :flipoff2:
 
puck some tube in the bed and make a structure that strengthens the frame from twisting. maybe you will loose some room in the bed but not much i am sure. easily could tuck some bars under the bed rails and tie into the frame, shit ton of ideas floating around.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
puck some tube in the bed and make a structure that strengthens the frame from twisting. maybe you will loose some room in the bed but not much i am sure. easily could tuck some bars under the bed rails and tie into the frame, shit ton of ideas floating around.
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I was going to run some extra crossmembers under the bed to hopefully achieve some more rigidity.
 
Slander said:
Agree on the bottom of the frame. I dented my drivers side frame BAD a few years ago so that definately needs some beef, and I wonder if flat bar along the bottom would have helped prevent my frame from twisting last year.
Click to expand...

I'm sure it would have helped some.

I'd think a tube structure with bed skins would be sweet also. But a regular truck bed is just handy.
 
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