2001 GMC 2500HD project

[89Breaker]

Purchase in Hawaii for $6k to serve as family camping, hauling, and beach truck. The prior owner neglected it a bit but has good bones, a little rust, and catching up on maintenance.

 

[89Breaker]

Things I’m worried about-
Rust around hitch, looks like surface but need feedback.

To do list after fluids-

Check fuses and various lighting
Replace detached rusted muffler
Leaking windshield and brake light
Front right window separated from lift mech
HVAC inop…may need a shop for this one as my skills are weak
Secure camper shell, one bracket missing
Bed cracked from pipe rack…not sure I care for just basic surfboards and light lumber
Wire brush, weld patch, and paint pipe rack…not sure about keeping it since it is stressing the camper and the bed.
Camper shell gas struts
Radio and speakers are garbage

Things I don’t care about-
Light surface rust, bottom of tailgate and front of bed rusted through but holds my 200+ weight just fine.

Things that are good-
4x4, basic lighting, runs, and drives

 

[89Breaker]

 

[wvracer821]

I would replace that hitch. I've seen a couple of these trucks with rusted and then broken hitches.

 

[89Breaker]

I would replace that hitch. I've seen a couple of these trucks with rusted and then broken hitches.

Thanks, it is really weird because the rust in the pics is really the only substantive rust on the truck.

I’m wondering if it is from a salt water boat ramp or something.

 

[gbiddlec]

Those factory hitches suck. Just replace it. I put a Curt from amazon on my 03. It was under $300 and maybe an hour install in the driveway.

What exactly is wrong with the HVAC? These trucks burn up blower motor resistors pretty regularly (again an easy replacement). I've done mine twice. If it's a fan issue, I'd look there first. I think the controls are pretty common failures as well, but I've not had mine go out.

 

[89Breaker]

Those factory hitches suck. Just replace it. I put a Curt from amazon on my 03. It was under $300 and maybe an hour install in the driveway.

What exactly is wrong with the HVAC? These trucks burn up blower motor resistors pretty regularly (again an easy replacement). I've done mine twice. If it's a fan issue, I'd look there first. I think the controls are pretty common failures as well, but I've not had mine go out.

Thanks for the hitch insight.

I can hear the HVAC doors moving with the various output switch selection so there is some power but the fan isn’t turning on.

I need to get a wiring diagram and repair book for it.

Any good links to troubleshoot the windshield and third brake light water leaks?

The passenger mirror is loose where the upper mirror housing attaches to the lower mirror mount, the body mount seems solid.

I power washed it yesterday and it looks much better. It’s amazing what a bottle of purple power and pressure washing can do.

Also figured out that Mr Clean household wall cleaning pads will remove rust drippings from paint. I was skeptical but the wife was right with her recommendation.

 

[gbiddlec]

You could pull the blower motor resistor, it will be pretty clear if it's burned out (scorch marks). It's also a pretty cheap part, <$20 last time I bought one, so you may want to just throw one in. Depending on truck trim level, it should be a cover with two screws on the underside of the dash in the passenger footwell. Pull the cover and unclip the harness. Easy 15 minute job.

Third brake light might need a gasket. I've never had one leak on that generation of truck, but later generations I know required a thicker than factory foam gasket to fix in some cases. You'll probably have to pull the topper, or at least slide it back, to get to it. Windshield probably needs re-sealed unless you can pin point the leak location and slather some permatex on it, but that will likely look pretty hack.

 

[Projectjunkie]

Yeah x4 on putting a new Delco blower motor resistor in it, common failure to lose a certain speed. Then another, then.....

The pigtail can also fail, but that's more common on later trucks

Check all speeds once at a time, then rap the blower motor with a hammer handle on each speed. You may need more than one part

I wouldn't sub that out to a shop, it's all easy enough stuff that won't piss you off, and I don't trust apps to not fuck things up

 

[89Breaker]

Y'all are great, I'm continuing to make the shopping list.

Next topic is a bed tear under the pipe rack. Is this repair a basic overlapping stitch weld? I'm guessing I should remove the pipe rack.

For rock auto parts for the power window, should I care about using a generic or stay with Dorman, Delco, etc? The GM OEM part is $130.

For the transmission, I have no idea if previous owner flushed it, it should be the 480LE. Will flushing it now anger the gods?

 

[Levigarrett76]

FWIW i put AC delco window motors in an 01 2500 burb a few years ago. They wound up being slower and weaker than the worn out factory motors. After much dicking around with them & adjustments I put the old ones back in

 

[ntaylor]

I put 2 cheapo whatever brand door motors in mine a few years ago. They were slow and just sucked. I ended up replacing them with either Dorman or Delco and they have been great for a few years. Reminds me that I should really do the driver side ones.

 

[WutCudGoWrong?]

For the windows, I think the guides get brittle or rough or something and even a new motor can’t overcome the friction and roll like new. And then they burn out faster cause of the extra effort. But yeah it’s a crapshoot on the motor brand, I’ve had no-name Amazon ones work great and some work like shit. Same with Napa and even ac delco. Don’t forget to sort of try and glue the plastic vapor barrier back.

Another thing on you lost to check is to Give your t-case the reach around and check for pump-rub failure

 

[Drummer79]

For the windows, I think the guides get brittle or rough or something and even a new motor can’t overcome the friction and roll like new. And then they burn out faster cause of the extra effort. But yeah it’s a crapshoot on the motor brand, I’ve had no-name Amazon ones work great and some work like shit. Same with Napa and even ac delco. Don’t forget to sort of try and glue the plastic vapor barrier back.

Another thing on you lost to check is to Give your t-case the reach around and check for pump-rub failure

Agreed. it's been too long ago now to remember, but in a 99 Z71 there's like a cable system or something maybe instead of old school gears? I thought the motor was dead in my passenger window but it was all the bullshit around it, not the motor.

 

[89Breaker]

Agreed. it's been too long ago now to remember, but in a 99 Z71 there's like a cable system or something maybe instead of old school gears? I thought the motor was dead in my passenger window but it was all the bullshit around it, not the motor.

The windows use a cable pulley motor and fixed the front myself, it was $50ish in parts.

I sold the truck shell and rack for $1000.

Already bought new tires, modified exhaust and installed big ass muffler , fixed AC leak, SES light for knock & O2 sensors, and gasket for coolant leak. Also plastic weld repaired the door handle bracket, it is common breakage and no OEM parts beyond junk yards.

Next on list is replace rusted 3rd brake light which I’ll have to get creative since rust was ignored, not a lot to work with. Windshield frame rust also needs love but I’ll need shop for that.

Then I’ll tackle the rusted bed with fab metal and patch panels on the cab corner.