2 Stroke outboard question

[Thefishguy77]

Ok have a boring yard art thread started in the other builds but have a question and shit shat gets a lot more traffic than a boring ass slow fishing boat thread.

Had a fuel issue, I suspect as well and the PO when I asked him (good friend), was out running on the 4th of July when after about 3 miles she got blubbery on the top end and would only run properly at 1900 rpms and below. Motor is a mid 90’s evinrude 175 intruder. So I took her home flushed the motor and then got caught up in life. My question is can I put it in gear and try to replicate the problem while running muffs to try and see if its blubbery before I change the filter and then proof it after the change? Trying to avoid dragging it 30 miles to a lake to proof it.

Fixing it with fire is not currently an option. Bacon or avocado are viable contenders.

 

[tracyb]

You can run it in gear with muffs. But it won't put the load on it, so probably won't help.

And use a good de-carb on the motor, I've always used amsoil 'power foam' the stuff is like magic on 2 stroke marine engines.

 

[pdangerp]

Don’t try to rev up on muffs. You’ll over-spin the prop. Muffs are for idling. You can put it in gear, but no real amount of throttle.

 

[Joez]

As it's been said, you'll never get the load on the motor on muffs. And to get to 1900rpm loaded, you will be blowing out any drum or container you could realistically use at home.

 

[Thefishguy77]

Alright. The consensus is in. Thanks gents

 

[Ted_Kaczynski]

Use your tongue to put a load on the prop. It'll be fine.

 

[Thefishguy77]

Use your tongue to put a load on the prop. It'll be fine.

You forgot film it for science. Fucking amateur

 

[Lbhsbz]

These use crankcase pulses to drive the fuel pump diaphragm that draws all the way up from the tanks...especially with the ethanol fuel now that degrades the lines, rubber collapses a bit. I've had that same problem a few times and snugging up all the clamps from the tank to the pump usually solves it. When the pump starts doing some work...it'll draw some air around the loose connections. I'd change the filters and make sure all the clamps are tight..then give a shot before doing anything else.

I get a turn or so out of each clamp at the beginning of each season...typically replace the lines every couple years.

 

[Thefishguy77]

These use crankcase pulses to drive the fuel pump diaphragm that draws all the way up from the tanks...especially with the ethanol fuel now that degrades the lines, rubber collapses a bit. I've had that same problem a few times and snugging up all the clamps from the tank to the pump usually solves it. When the pump starts doing some work...it'll draw some air around the loose connections. I'd change the filters and make sure all the clamps are tight..then give a shot before doing anything else.

I get a turn or so out of each clamp at the beginning of each season...typically replace the lines every couple years.

Will definitely check the clamps, thanks. I believe the PO that he only ran ethanol free fuel in it as he has a good fuel station about a mile from his house. I also only run ethanol free fuel in all my 2 strokes as small engines.

 

[Norm]

Get rid of the old fuel, change the filter, and check/clean the float bowls first. Then I would check the fuel pump diaphragm if that doesn’t do it. Next make sure the flywheel trigger isn’t rusty. You need to put it in water to get a load on it.

 

[Thefishguy77]

Found 2 loose clamps on a primer ball the PO did before the filter to help prime it after changing it. She should be in the water in a few hours for 4 days.

Chamce favors the bold, or so we hope.

 

[Thefishguy77]

Runs great!