2 Speed 3Ph Motor on VFD

[AlxJ64]

Working out the wiring plan for the new to me lathe.
It has a 2 speed motor (4hp low, 8 hp high) and I am wiring it on a VFD as all of my other machines in the shop are on VFDs... they are all single speed motors, and as was this lathes predecessor.

The motor, I am assuming based on its gargantuan-ness, is a dual winding. If that is the case, my understanding is that the factory wiring switch sends power to one set of windings for the low speed, which is also less power. For high speed then, it sends power to both sets of windings to give the higher speed and horsepower.

The question at hand is: Should I wire on the high speed side and use the frequency control to slow the motor down, thus giving me more torque throughout the spectrum of speed? But if I do, am I at risk of burning up the windings.

or

Should I put a switch between the VFD and the two sets of windings to select between the low side and the high side, and then adjust the speed and HP check parameters in the VFD each time? That sounds like somewhat of a pain as the menu on the VFD I am running is less than efficient in changing settings.

or

Run the VFD as a static power source, and use the original switches and controls on the lathe itself. This may present a common fault situation for the VFD as I imagine the starting load of the motor on the mag switch will piss off the VFD.


Thoughts and experience? I am leaning towards the first option.

 

[JohnnyJ]

I take it there's no easy way to make a selector switch to pick configs on the VFD, only can do via complex menu?

 

[AlxJ64]

I take it there's no easy way to make a selector switch to pick configs on the VFD, only can do via complex menu?

Not on this one. I think there are some out there that you can select motor profiles on but not at a reasonable price. The ones I know of sell for nearly what I paid for this lathe. Granted, if it comes down it a necessity, I won't be a cheap ass... but I have to weigh my needs vs resources here.

 

[CarterKraft]

Working out the wiring plan for the new to me lathe.
It has a 2 speed motor (4hp low, 8 hp high) and I am wiring it on a VFD as all of my other machines in the shop are on VFDs... they are all single speed motors, and as was this lathes predecessor.

The motor, I am assuming based on its gargantuan-ness, is a dual winding. If that is the case, my understanding is that the factory wiring switch sends power to one set of windings for the low speed, which is also less power. For high speed then, it sends power to both sets of windings to give the higher speed and horsepower.

The question at hand is: Should I wire on the high speed side and use the frequency control to slow the motor down, thus giving me more torque throughout the spectrum of speed? But if I do, am I at risk of burning up the windings.

or

Should I put a switch between the VFD and the two sets of windings to select between the low side and the high side, and then adjust the speed and HP check parameters in the VFD each time? That sounds like somewhat of a pain as the menu on the VFD I am running is less than efficient in changing settings.

or

Run the VFD as a static power source, and use the original switches and controls on the lathe itself. This may present a common fault situation for the VFD as I imagine the starting load of the motor on the mag switch will piss off the VFD.


Thoughts and experience? I am leaning towards the first option.

Can you tell where your RPMs will be at for each speed, like basically look and decide I won't ever be in A speed, just B.

 

[CarterKraft]

Also would running in low over 60hz be better than in high sub 60?

 

[CarterKraft]

Too late to just build a 10hp RPC?

 

[bgaidan]

You can't put a switch/contactor after the VFD. It'll trip instantly. VFDs want to be the one starting a motor. They don't take "shock loads" well, if at all.

If you're not going to be swapping between high and low very often, just make a cheat sheet with the parameters you need to change.
Or, since chinese VFDs are so cheap, just get one for each speed....make sure you don't run them at the same time!



Like me, it sounds like you're at the point where a RPC makes more sense. I now have 6 3 phase machines and I've been sharing VFDs between the ones with the same size motors, but that gets old.



I picked up a 25hp motor a couple hundred bucks a while back. I just need to start collecting the rest of the parts for the RPC and get it done.

 

[PoBoy84]

You can wire both sets of windings in to a reversing (electrically, and mechanically interlocked mind you) set of contactor before the VFD. Same as you would for hoist or traverse function directional contactors.

They come with the jumpers as well so you don't have wires going everywhere. Works as below.

 

[Pook]

The risk you run running in the highspeed setting and turning down you frequency is the motor won't be getting cooled as efficiently.

Does the lathe not have gears for its actual rpm settings?

 

[CarterKraft]

You can wire both sets of windings in to a reversing (electrically, and mechanically interlocked mind you) set of contactor before the VFD. Same as you would for hoist or traverse function directional contactors.

They come with the jumpers as well so you don't have wires going everywhere. Works as below.

Same as a drum switch right? He'd just have to make double sure to not switch it VFD on/under load or the vfd goes pooof.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

Id wire the vfd keeping the two speed selector. You can probably use an output function of the vfd to limit the ability of a contactor to switch over windings if the frequency isn't 0. Personally, I'd just remember not to switch while running. Shouldn't be really an issue because you won't be changing on the fly anyways.

 

[PoBoy84]

Same as a drum switch right? He'd just have to make double sure to not switch it VFD on/under load or the vfd goes pooof.

It's mechanically interlocked as well as electrically as far as both getting engaged. I can think of a bunch of ways to make more safety redundant using controls, but vfds are cheap on Amazon all day. Not like you're blowing a 20k yaskawa.

 

[PoBoy84]

You'll never use two speeds when it's infinitely variable though. I'd set and forget. Pick one.

 

[AlxJ64]

Too late to just build a 10hp RPC?

If that's the case, I shouldn't have sold arse_sidewards that big 15 hp motor back last year. Oops.
But nah, I have too much tied up in VFDs and the way I have my wiring in my building setup.

You can't put a switch/contactor after the VFD. It'll trip instantly. VFDs want to be the one starting a motor. They don't take "shock loads" well, if at all.

If you're not going to be swapping between high and low very often, just make a cheat sheet with the parameters you need to change.
Or, since chinese VFDs are so cheap, just get one for each speed....make sure you don't run them at the same time!



Like me, it sounds like you're at the point where a RPC makes more sense. I now have 6 3 phase machines and I've been sharing VFDs between the ones with the same size motors, but that gets old.



I picked up a 25hp motor a couple hundred bucks a while back. I just need to start collecting the rest of the parts for the RPC and get it done.

I too have a pass around VFD, and literally just added one more machine to its use this past weekend, a Kysor Johnson Model J hz saw. I've got it setup to where I can use the factory machine switches and the VFD doesn't know what its running because the parameters and switches are all the same, just have to plug in the cord, and then the control switch cord too. In regards to the High and Low, the gear split on the lathe would have me switching probably between jobs. Not often would I be booking the 900 RPM on the machine since I also have the other small lathe now too.

You can wire both sets of windings in to a reversing (electrically, and mechanically interlocked mind you) set of contactor before the VFD. Same as you would for hoist or traverse function directional contactors.

They come with the jumpers as well so you don't have wires going everywhere. Works as below.

So this is the route I am going, but I think I can use the switch thats in the machine. I did some digging around and found a few pages from a smaller version of the lathe, but still wired with a 2 speed motor and the controls look the same. I imagine they are going to function similarly. That being said, it appears that there is a built in selector switch like what you linked to that controls which windings are energized and also switches two legs for reversing of each winding. If I can just power that switch with the VFD, and as mentioned, don't switch during the load cycle... it should be okay.

The risk you run running in the highspeed setting and turning down you frequency is the motor won't be getting cooled as efficiently.

Does the lathe not have gears for its actual rpm settings?

Yes, that was a concern regarding the cooling. The insulation rating on the motor is pretty high and I think it has something crazy like a 350 deg F rating.

It has an 8 speed gearbox, and then the 2 speed motor makes it a 16 speed. The thought was that with an 8 speed box and using the frequency adjustment, I can still have the same speeds, as well as everything in between.

Same as a drum switch right? He'd just have to make double sure to not switch it VFD on/under load or the vfd goes pooof.

I think that I am going to utilize the feature that Dethmachinefab has mentioned, and set the start parameter to a DC brake and then 0 hz before taking off again. This should help lockout the concern of damage... and also the machine is in my "garage" technically... not too many dumbasses would be coming through, and I only have one friend that is familiar enough with a machine this size to even consider turning it on; the rest will be like "What the fuck do you have that thing for?"

Id wire the vfd keeping the two speed selector. You can probably use an output function of the vfd to limit the ability of a contactor to switch over windings if the frequency isn't 0. Personally, I'd just remember not to switch while running. Shouldn't be really an issue because you won't be changing on the fly anyways.

This! I think this is what I am going to try and do. The way the current two speed selector is shown on the similar machine drawings (I am not near my new machine until Sunday when I unload it as its tarp covered and on the trailer still due to my work schedule this week) but the way I see it wired the current switch will allow me to just use the Run control to start and stop the VFD, and then the speed / direction switch to pick my speeds. Also, it has a pretty decent amount of space between switching positions.

You'll never use two speeds when it's infinitely variable though. I'd set and forget. Pick one.

Yea... see thats my thoughts too on wiring it up to High and then using the frequency to adjust it. I have my Bridgeport this way; but it also has an inverter rated heavy duty motor swapped onto it too. I priced a few 8HP inverter rated motors and they are more than I paid for the entire lathe.


So yea, the Red handle is the start lever. Push it to the right and the machine starts, pull it back to the left and it is supposed to engage a spindle brake.
The little black lever there behind it is currently in the "lockout" position. Evidently if the red lever is bumped the machine still won't start.
Click the black lever to the right one detent, (1:00) and it goes into forward Low speed.. click it again into 2:00, and it goes back to off... one more click to 3:00, 90 degrees, and it is in forward High... In order for the motor to turn on though, the red lever still has to be pushed to the right. Reverse is the opposite direction from 12:00... 11:00 is Reverse Low, 10 is off, and 9 is Reverse High.

Photo from the sales listing. Big side mounted lever is the gearbox high / low and the smaller side mounted lever with the 3 positions is the lead screw/feed rod forward / N / reverse. Top levers are speed selectors with 3 positions each.

If I wire up the red lever limit switch to be my start and stop contactor for the VFD, and then just leave the black control switch as is, the machine should function on two speeds. The only caveat is that I can make the VFD not care about the motor speed and just be a "dumb power box" and thats it.

 

[PoBoy84]

If that's the case, I shouldn't have sold arse_sidewards that big 15 hp motor back last year. Oops.
But nah, I have too much tied up in VFDs and the way I have my wiring in my building setup.


I too have a pass around VFD, and literally just added one more machine to its use this past weekend, a Kysor Johnson Model J hz saw. I've got it setup to where I can use the factory machine switches and the VFD doesn't know what its running because the parameters and switches are all the same, just have to plug in the cord, and then the control switch cord too. In regards to the High and Low, the gear split on the lathe would have me switching probably between jobs. Not often would I be booking the 900 RPM on the machine since I also have the other small lathe now too.

So this is the route I am going, but I think I can use the switch thats in the machine. I did some digging around and found a few pages from a smaller version of the lathe, but still wired with a 2 speed motor and the controls look the same. I imagine they are going to function similarly. That being said, it appears that there is a built in selector switch like what you linked to that controls which windings are energized and also switches two legs for reversing of each winding. If I can just power that switch with the VFD, and as mentioned, don't switch during the load cycle... it should be okay.


Yes, that was a concern regarding the cooling. The insulation rating on the motor is pretty high and I think it has something crazy like a 350 deg F rating.

It has an 8 speed gearbox, and then the 2 speed motor makes it a 16 speed. The thought was that with an 8 speed box and using the frequency adjustment, I can still have the same speeds, as well as everything in between.


I think that I am going to utilize the feature that Dethmachinefab has mentioned, and set the start parameter to a DC brake and then 0 hz before taking off again. This should help lockout the concern of damage... and also the machine is in my "garage" technically... not too many dumbasses would be coming through, and I only have one friend that is familiar enough with a machine this size to even consider turning it on; the rest will be like "What the fuck do you have that thing for?"


This! I think this is what I am going to try and do. The way the current two speed selector is shown on the similar machine drawings (I am not near my new machine until Sunday when I unload it as its tarp covered and on the trailer still due to my work schedule this week) but the way I see it wired the current switch will allow me to just use the Run control to start and stop the VFD, and then the speed / direction switch to pick my speeds. Also, it has a pretty decent amount of space between switching positions.


Yea... see thats my thoughts too on wiring it up to High and then using the frequency to adjust it. I have my Bridgeport this way; but it also has an inverter rated heavy duty motor swapped onto it too. I priced a few 8HP inverter rated motors and they are more than I paid for the entire lathe.


So yea, the Red handle is the start lever. Push it to the right and the machine starts, pull it back to the left and it is supposed to engage a spindle brake.
The little black lever there behind it is currently in the "lockout" position. Evidently if the red lever is bumped the machine still won't start.
Click the black lever to the right one detent, (1:00) and it goes into forward Low speed.. click it again into 2:00, and it goes back to off... one more click to 3:00, 90 degrees, and it is in forward High... In order for the motor to turn on though, the red lever still has to be pushed to the right. Reverse is the opposite direction from 12:00... 11:00 is Reverse Low, 10 is off, and 9 is Reverse High.

Photo from the sales listing. Big side mounted lever is the gearbox high / low and the smaller side mounted lever with the 3 positions is the lead screw/feed rod forward / N / reverse. Top levers are speed selectors with 3 positions each.

If I wire up the red lever limit switch to be my start and stop contactor for the VFD, and then just leave the black control switch as is, the machine should function on two speeds. The only caveat is that I can make the VFD not care about the motor speed and just be a "dumb power box" and thats it.

If you want it to be perfect, you can accomplish everything witg simple relay logic pre vfd.

 

[bgaidan]

If that's the case, I shouldn't have sold @arse_sidewards that big 15 hp motor back last year. Oops.
But nah, I have too much tied up in VFDs and the way I have my wiring in my building setup.

Want me to grab a 15-25 hp motor the next time I see one at the yard? I think they're up to $8/hp now. Hell if I can find a 25 or 30 I'll sell you the 20 I have sitting here.

 

[AlxJ64]

Want me to grab a 15-25 hp motor the next time I see one at the yard? I think they're up to $8/hp now. Hell if I can find a 25 or 30 I'll sell you the 20 I have sitting here.

Ha ha, I do appreciate the offer, and when I bought the building I am in now I started to build one; but I lied to myself and said "you'll never have anything big enough that you'd need that much 3 Ph for"... yea, well... here I am.

The cost of running another circuit for RPC to power the various machines randomly located around the building, mixed in with single phase machines, would cost me more than just buying a few more VFDs and even as you suggested, one for each speed of this machine. I think that the drum switch built into the machine already will solve some of the issues here so long as I can tell the VFD to not be so sensitive to rotor speed and see if I can find some sort of no-load protect logic to keep me from hurting it in the event the speed handle is moved while running. The off positions being between the speed change positions is a nice little buffer feature. The detents are NOT that hard and when I open the drum switch box, I may see if there is a way to increase the load on the detents, however they may function.

 

[PoBoy84]

Ha ha, I do appreciate the offer, and when I bought the building I am in now I started to build one; but I lied to myself and said "you'll never have anything big enough that you'd need that much 3 Ph for"... yea, well... here I am.

The cost of running another circuit for RPC to power the various machines randomly located around the building, mixed in with single phase machines, would cost me more than just buying a few more VFDs and even as you suggested, one for each speed of this machine. I think that the drum switch built into the machine already will solve some of the issues here so long as I can tell the VFD to not be so sensitive to rotor speed and see if I can find some sort of no-load protect logic to keep me from hurting it in the event the speed handle is moved while running. The off positions being between the speed change positions is a nice little buffer feature. The detents are NOT that hard and when I open the drum switch box, I may see if there is a way to increase the load on the detents, however they may function.

Pay for my food, and I'll just come do it for you. I can accomplish everything you need with no mechanics and simple NO/NC contact routing of controls.

 

[CarterKraft]

Ha ha, I do appreciate the offer, and when I bought the building I am in now I started to build one; but I lied to myself and said "you'll never have anything big enough that you'd need that much 3 Ph for"... yea, well... here I am.

The cost of running another circuit for RPC to power the various machines randomly located around the building, mixed in with single phase machines, would cost me more than just buying a few more VFDs and even as you suggested, one for each speed of this machine. I think that the drum switch built into the machine already will solve some of the issues here so long as I can tell the VFD to not be so sensitive to rotor speed and see if I can find some sort of no-load protect logic to keep me from hurting it in the event the speed handle is moved while running. The off positions being between the speed change positions is a nice little buffer feature. The detents are NOT that hard and when I open the drum switch box, I may see if there is a way to increase the load on the detents, however they may function.

Just run it on the lathe though right?
Don't over complicate it, just pull rope it and size the caps.

Do you have a cheap vfd currently than can handle hp?

 

[AlxJ64]

Pay for my food, and I'll just come do it for you. I can accomplish everything you need with no mechanics and simple NO/NC contact routing of controls.

I appreciate the offer, but I'm the kind of person that finds pleasure in the pain of doing as much as I can, and sometimes being resistive to the "best way" because I want to do something a way that fits some other long term thought process, such as maintenance. If you did it all, I'd learn less, and if I need to change something or fix something in the future, I'd be more dependent on someone else, and I just don't function well that way.
Thanks though,

Just run it on the lathe though right?
Don't over complicate it, just pull rope it and size the caps.

Do you have a cheap vfd currently than can handle hp?

I have a VFD for it delivering today or tomorrow. Its as close to identical as the one I have on my 7.5 Hp Cinci. I read through the settings book for it the other night and I am pretty certain I can tell it to just play dumb and give me forward power when I want it. Also it appears that the machine has a spindle brake on it. The manual has no details on it, and I am having a hard time finding any info on the internet about it, but the handle is labeled as such and there is a pull rod on the back going to a drum assembly behind the drive pulleys... So no need for high load DC braking through the drum switch this way either. Or I can turn it up to whatever I feel is a comfortable loading for it and use the hand brake in an emergency. I have a 26" faceplate for it too but that will be few and far between scenarios for that.

 

[CarterKraft]

When I asked because the last time I looked I couldn't find "cheap" high HP versions but after asking looked yesterday and found one for $186, that's cheap enough IMO.

 

[AlxJ64]

When I asked because the last time I looked I couldn't find "cheap" high HP versions but after asking looked yesterday and found one for $186, that's cheap enough IMO.

I actually got this one for $165 shipped to the door. Its a Huangyang 10 HP. Two years ago I paid $295 for the same one.

 

[CarterKraft]

Thread derail.... My little 3hp VFD maybe Huangyang? I want to connect it to a regular NC Stop/Start Button, I don't have the manual any more but with my minimum amount of research looked like I need to use some relays to latch to get this to work, I suspect there is a setting to change to allow the momentary button presses to suffice but I couldn't find it.
Any shortcuts to this style of control. Relays aren't a problem I have just been pretty lazy because it works fine as is, albeit a bit sketchy when it's hung up and slinging my parts around

 

[aczlan]

Usually the stop is NC and the start is NO (fed by the output of the stop switch, that way you cannot start while the stop switch is pressed).

Aaron Z

 

[CarterKraft]

Usually the stop is NC and the start is NO (fed by the output of the stop switch, that way you cannot start while the stop switch is pressed).

Aaron Z

That's how mine is but pressing the button only....
Let me re-evaluate the current wiring and connection states before asking for the hive mind.

 

[AlxJ64]

Thread derail.... My little 3hp VFD maybe Huangyang? I want to connect it to a regular NC Stop/Start Button, I don't have the manual any more but with my minimum amount of research looked like I need to use some relays to latch to get this to work, I suspect there is a setting to change to allow the momentary button presses to suffice but I couldn't find it.
Any shortcuts to this style of control. Relays aren't a problem I have just been pretty lazy because it works fine as is, albeit a bit sketchy when it's hung up and slinging my parts around

Usually the stop is NC and the start is NO (fed by the output of the stop switch, that way you cannot start while the stop switch is pressed).

Aaron Z

This ^
I have the Cinci wired this way. This weekend I will get you the settings list and wiring setup to make it work. The book isn't very clear on the Slc pin or whatever its called, but I'll get the info up here for ya.

 

[AlxJ64]

When I asked because the last time I looked I couldn't find "cheap" high HP versions but after asking looked yesterday and found one for $186, that's cheap enough IMO.

Don't buy it... well, maybe you'll have better luck than me.

That cheap VFD that I ordered showed up last week and I just got some time last night to open the box and start looking at how to wire it. The seller (ebay seller of chinesium) had it listed as a Huangyang 7.5 kw and thats what the photos looked like. When I opened it up, nope... an unbranded clone and the first thing I noticed was that the blades on the cooling fan were already caked with dirt, which tells me its built from recycled parts. Lovely.

Wire the thing up the way the manual prescribes. Set up all the parameters and hit the run button (wanted to test before wiring in the actual start switch lever on the machine) and a light "clunk" from the motor is all I get and the VFD sits there humming. I hit the stop button and it throws the Volt Overload Decel error... even though the motor never moved... uggh. There aren't even any belts on the machine, its just the motor, so it should have zero problems.

So I chase settings, check wires, check voltages, etc etc. Go through the manual like 3 times. This particular unit has WAY less programability than the ACTUAL Huanyang versions that I already own. The thing has stickers all over it that say 7.5kw... but the part number translates to a 0.75kw... yes, 3/4 kw not 7.5. So the smallest 3 phase motor I have is a 3/4 hp motor which is 600 watts. I hook it up to that, and same thing, so its just not putting out any amps. I then take my 3 phase extension cord that I have for running my drill press off of the VFD behind the Cincinnati and sketch wire the lathe to that cord. I walk over and hit the start button on the Cinci, and the lathe fires right up. Motor spins smooth as can be. I hit the stop button on the cinci and the motor slows and stops. I switch directions and speeds on the lathe using the factory drum switch that I had left wired up and hit the go button on the cinci again and the lathe fires up running in the opposite direction but at the higher speed that I selected. I test all of the directions and speeds a few times and everything is good. Unhook the extension cord. Check all of the connections and verify that things match the manual in the cheap VFD, hook it all back up... Same exact no go results. - Started the return process on this piece of junk one and already getting the runaround on it. - "Refer manual reply findings settings wrong VFD good"... I'll get my money back eventually. In the meantime, I tracked down a legit place to order the same GT series real huanyang unit that I have on the Cinci since I know it works.

CarterKraft If you have the GT series unit, there is a 3 wire mode that you can select and it will allow you to operate the momentary type switch to control the machine. You can even reverse the logic on it too where closed is off and open is on, etc. The knockoff unit I am sending back only offers the run / rev remote leads as NC inputs from the common output with no programmability for momentary or reverse logic.

 

[bgaidan]

Which one did you buy?

I have one of these that I bought to run a 7.5hp compressor and it seemed to work fine. Even triggered it off the pressure switch. Only thing I found is I needed to do a slow ramp on the initial startup. Once it had run and cycled once, it would continue to cycle with a faster ramp. It was just for testing a few compressor I was selling and for a backup in case I needed one at the time.

The other thing I never bothered to figure out on it - I couldn't just power it on and let it start up. I'd have to manually open the pressure switch, hit the start button and then release the switch and let it ramp. After that, it would cycle normally. I'm sure it was a safety thing so equipment wouldn't just start running as soon as it was plugged in....but I kind of wanted that. I'm sure there was a setting to defeat that too.


Either way, I'm probably going to try this on my 10hp monarch when I get the motor swapped over. We'll see how she does there....

 

[bgaidan]

OK, you just sent me down a random rabbit hole looking at 7.5kw drives on ebay...

I stumbled accross this:

ATO 10HP 7.5KW Single 220V to 3 Phase 380V VFD Variable Frequency Drive Inverter | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for ATO 10HP 7.5KW Single 220V to 3 Phase 380V VFD Variable Frequency Drive Inverter at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

220v single phase in, 380 3 phase out. Didn't know that was a thing. I could see this being useful for that random 380v machine that you can't repower with a simple motor swap and nobody else wants it because it's 380v so you get it stupid cheap or free. I always thought you had to use a transformer BEFORE the VFD to bump the voltage up.

I have an automation direct 120v to 230 drive that I use on my little lathe, but that's limited to like 1/2 hp.

Not cheap, but if it lets you power an otherwise unusable a machine, a cool option.

 

[AlxJ64]

Which one did you buy?

I have one of these that I bought to run a 7.5hp compressor and it seemed to work fine. Even triggered it off the pressure switch. Only thing I found is I needed to do a slow ramp on the initial startup. Once it had run and cycled once, it would continue to cycle with a faster ramp. It was just for testing a few compressor I was selling and for a backup in case I needed one at the time.

The other thing I never bothered to figure out on it - I couldn't just power it on and let it start up. I'd have to manually open the pressure switch, hit the start button and then release the switch and let it ramp. After that, it would cycle normally. I'm sure it was a safety thing so equipment wouldn't just start running as soon as it was plugged in....but I kind of wanted that. I'm sure there was a setting to defeat that too.


Either way, I'm probably going to try this on my 10hp monarch when I get the motor swapped over. We'll see how she does there....

Yep, thats the one that came in the box.. but the listing (which is "sold out" now, had photos of a different one. The same aluminum cooling block heat sink that I have on my Cinci.

It was listed as a Huangyang but its not that I can find. I have checked every setting in the book and it won't seem to fire up. Glad to hear yours is running good. I'll check it all over again tonight but for the life of me can't seem to see whats wrong with this one and yet the other one works when I wire it up the exact same way. Potentially there is a printing error in the manual but I don't see how. I even swapped around the 3 lines to make sure my U V W and L1 L2 and L3 didn't need to be a certain way, but nah. Seems to not matter. Won't put any amps out.