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Whatcha doing over there??
Just not happy with how it rides or works.
Just not happy with how it rides or works.
my recipe and a few checks solves that problem
rockota
white collar hillbilly
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FFS. “These don’t even have much arch. “. HahahahaLitterally post a list of how to make them work......?
It's not bs, I've done it. I took 4" all pro leafs with tons of arch and put them on my 2nd gen 4runner with a net of zero lift. Sat level with untouched ifs.
These don't even have that much arch. Ditch the blocks and pull some leafs you loose 2" right away.
It’s a 1” block.
The front hangers are already 4” up the side of the frame.
The rear spring eye is already higher than the top of the frame.
So try again, Gary.
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I know it. Like I said. I'll probly be pestering you before long.
Slander
Team no stickys
Bolt in's. Truck had a mostly empty bed and they lasted about 2yrs. Those old all pros were better and I beated those like a rented mule and they kept on taking it. I would have kept them but I was redoing the whole rear end and went Chevy 63s just because.
rockota they did ride nice, but the dollar to ride nice ratio wasn't that much better than my current setup or that all pro setup with leafs pulled.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Funny because I have a samurai on 32s with stock axles and have specifically avoided an axle swap.
You guys couldn't be further off.
No one is a bigger advocate for using the right parts for the right job. Which why I said a stock truck may be better for you
If you were starting from scratch and had a set of 63s laying around I wouldn't have said anything, the fact that you're pulling out good leaves for crappy leaves is my whole point.
rockota
white collar hillbilly
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And yet you still cannot articulate a solution for keeping these springs and have ignored the fact that they are designed for go-fast work.Funny because I have a samurai on 32s with stock axles and have specifically avoided an axle swap.
You guys couldn't be further off.
No one is a bigger advocate for using the right parts for the right job. Which why I said a stock truck may be better for you
If you were starting from scratch and had a set of 63s laying around I wouldn't have said anything, the fact that you're pulling out good leaves for crappy leaves is my whole point.
“But take leafs out!” Guess what - if the spring itself needs to be modified, then they are no better than anything else.
Still waiting on your solution to keeping these. You keep dodging that…. So here is yet another invitation for you to bestow your infinite wisdom on the class.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I haven not heard great things about the bolt in deavers. The stock Tacoma mounting points are just not great for any kind of travel
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Like I said I already posted the list of how to make it work it's pretty straightforward if the Springs have Arch you got to move the mounts up. Or Mount them under the axle . It's not rocket science.
The leaves aren't made for go fast they're made for lots of travel and to be tunable. So if you want lots of travel there's no reason you can't use them for a rock crawler. They will pull 18 in of travel in the setup that mobile mentioned earlier but if you're okay with you can easily make them work in your truck it's been done many times
Do you want me to post it again or are you incapable of scrolling back a few posts to reread?
rockota
white collar hillbilly
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FFS…. Already shared the details of how the springs are mounted. Do explain how to mount them higher… please!
You’re arguing out of your ass. But now you’re so dug in that you can’t - or won’t - admit you’re weong
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
So are these other springs dead flat? Is that what you're after?
These leafs aren't like a 12" Superlift square body leaf, if you can't figure out how to make mounts that work, then I guess I don't know what else to say.
you need all that stuff anyway to some degree, be it from TC, homemade or someone else.
a 62" spring is a 62" spring, 'gofast' springs tend to have lower rates, higher leaf count, and more free arch which are all good for ride quality. as someone mentioned pulling a leaf or two might net the ride height/quality characteristics you are after but you still have to rebuild the entire rear. id bet the cost of of Steve300xcw taco bill for a week that you have a shock/suspension setup problem, not a spring problem. pull the shocks off and see how freely the rear moves. it should move very easily if everything is setup properly. my hunch is the shackle bushing is where the harshness is coming from. if not there the shock has a ton of rebound, low compression and all the psi's in the bump and which you are hitting sooner than you think.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Holy shit
Step 1:
Pull the block and remove 2-4 leafs
Step 2:
French the front hangers(this means you cut a section of frame out and move the hanger up into the frame)
Step 3: put the shackle hanger IN the frame.
Or you can mount the springs traditionally on the frame and mount them spring under.
I have done the first using springs with more arch than yours, and netted zero lift. I am currently doing the spua and it's looking like very little lift.
Are these 63s any less arched than what you have anyway?
rockota
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I’ll type slower so you can keep up.
It’s a 1” block.
The front hanger is already 4+” up the frame.
The rear spring eye is already above the rear of the frame
There is zero way your idea works w/o increasing ride height 4-9”. So try one of your other 999,999 options.
Ok? Go….
rockota
white collar hillbilly
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I agree with your sentiments. I could make this work as long as I keep the springs out board of the frame. But I still have some fab work to do re: shocks and bump stops… and then still have issues of the front hanger making it extremely difficult to mount a good slider.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I don't know what else to say
Give it a few minutes, I’m sure you will think of something
rockota
white collar hillbilly
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Drove home from a meeting and was giving YotaGaryToo's comments their due consideration.
And I think I figured it out.
His contention: Using the <$250 springs instead of the $1500 springs is lazy and stupid.
His solution:
Makes perfect sense!!!!!! Sorry it took so long to catch up, YotaGaryToo. But now, I clearly see the wisdom you have imparted.
And I think I figured it out.
His contention: Using the <$250 springs instead of the $1500 springs is lazy and stupid.
His solution:
- Do more work than needed to use the $250 springs (find a way to french the front higher. Move rear shackle into or above the frame - and rebuild the rear bumper to accommodate, etc).
- Then, when that doesn't yield the ride height needed, remove leaves from the $1500 springs until they provide the ride height that the <$250 springs would have (with much less work).
- Ignore the load carrying capability issue created by removing 1/3-1/2 the pack... considering that is lazy.
Makes perfect sense!!!!!! Sorry it took so long to catch up, YotaGaryToo. But now, I clearly see the wisdom you have imparted.
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Just put the spring hanger on top the frame
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
rockota
white collar hillbilly
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You disagree with the assessment?Life is hard when you're retarded
Because that's exactly what you've been stating.
Regardless, I'm done. You've f'd up my thread enough. Please feel free to exit.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I think you're being dramatic
You're also ignoring my spua or using sliders over shackles. If you want to do it, it's very possible.
And no, I don't agree, you have it backwards.
If you don't want to do the work, just say that instead of acting all ****y.
I would start by removing leafs to get desired spring rate. You can then see how much arch you loose and decide how you want to build your mounts.
I think between the block, the actual thickness of the leafs, and a lower spring rate, you could probably loose 3-4" right there. Then build mounts to get your desired height.
here is two of my tacomas
f55s - 1" lift spring, frenched hangers were a bad idea and took away all my ride height. should have used an f67 or not frenched the hanger. 10" shock on a trailing arm, 16" of travel. front needed to come down ~6" and the rear up ~2" to be where it should have been.
round 2
f67s - used, spring under, bolt-in coilover in the front and the TC catalog list above in the rear. front hanger lands right under the bed mount, plenty of room for a slider to land. didnt trim the ubolts and they got hammered on the rubicon. looks wise this was one of my favorite trucks with a 33x10.50, dual cases, rear arb and 2.5 triple bypasses in the rear.
f55s - 1" lift spring, frenched hangers were a bad idea and took away all my ride height. should have used an f67 or not frenched the hanger. 10" shock on a trailing arm, 16" of travel. front needed to come down ~6" and the rear up ~2" to be where it should have been.
round 2
f67s - used, spring under, bolt-in coilover in the front and the TC catalog list above in the rear. front hanger lands right under the bed mount, plenty of room for a slider to land. didnt trim the ubolts and they got hammered on the rubicon. looks wise this was one of my favorite trucks with a 33x10.50, dual cases, rear arb and 2.5 triple bypasses in the rear.