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1st Build Thread Attempt - Cheap Suzi

Brecklin

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
634
Messages
389
Loc
Appleton WI
After wheeling Toyotas for a good amount of years and always lusting over any Samurai I ever wheeled with, I finally picked one up. I had donated a bunch of Toyota parts and eventually started a build for my buddy while he was serving our country. Spring of 2019 he hooked me up with a $400 stock, complete, okay-ish shape 87 Samurai.

Original plans were to use a TBI 4.3 I already owned, along with my Toyota W56 and stock duals from my old truck. The built 85 Yota front and IFS rear axles from my old truck would make their way under the Samurai, using stock YJ springs. I planned on 35" MTRs that I picked up new for cheap through work. Overall this was set to be a budget build to get me through wheeling until I can finish my 1 ton Toyota build. The goal was a street friendly rig I could take to town to cruise and look cool, but yet still run some moderate trails.

After driving it in stock form for a bit, I realized the 1.3 ran beautiful and everything else seemed to work. I changed plans, figured I'd run the 1.3 until it puked and after Pirate research, decided ultimately it'll get a 1.6 at that point.

So, here it was in all it's $400 stock Samurai glory.

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I started by installing the ZOR YJ kit. Initially I threw under a set of YJ lift springs that my buddy gave me with the Samurai. At this point I realized they were going to be way too tall, and a set of stock springs would be ideal.

I cut out the front core support mount and sleeve/plated the frame to mount the IFS box out of my old Toyota. Hindsight is 2020, I should have used an FJ80 box as I do have interference issues between tie rod and drag link when the wheels are straight and LF is at full bump. I'll take care of that this summer

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I cut out the rear frame and sleeved it with square tube to mount the rear bumper that I bent up.

The front bumper started off as a DIY kit from DR Z. I would buy another in a heart beat.

First time flexing it on it's new suspension and axle set up..

The rear axle is an IFS mini truck with disc brakes, 3/8" third member bolts, and armored. The front is an 85 mini truck running OG 30 spline Longs, ARP hub and knuckle studs, Marlin high steer, along with being trusted and armored. Im running stock 4.10 gears, welded front and rear.

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I used a Toyota PS pump from a 22RE, cut up the bracket and tensioner, and made it bolt up to the 1.3. It works pretty good, until the front hubs are locked...which is par for the course with a welded front. It doesn't bother me too much though.

I modified an IFS front Toyota shaft with the double cardan joint for the rear of the Samurai. The front is using a cut down rear Toyota shaft. It's funny how that works.

First time outside in a couple weeks at this point, next to my 1 ton GMC.

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Subaru master cyl and a Wilwood proportioning valve, works awesome! The master literally bolts on, you just have to make a longer plunger from the booster.

Installed a 9K HF special and started driving it.

I needed a new rear driveshaft, my temporary one had a vibration at 40mph and faster. Other than that, it wasn't that bad of a ride.

It was already late October and there was a local Jeep gathering near a place where we wheel up here in WI. What a better place for a maiden offroad voyage than surrounded by a pile of new Jeeps...

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Well, you can see how that went. I've never been more embarrassed, or so I think.

I was trying to reverse over a large log with the front tires. While letting out the clutch and adding throttle, the front output on the case went tits up. With the front shackles unpinned and under torque in reverse, the ears on the front shaft bound up because of the angle. I put the case back together and clearances the ears on the shaft. Lesson learned!

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I've pretty much been using it as a DD since spring. I love driving this piece of crap. There aren't many here in WI and most people have no idea what it is. I found out my girlfriend enjoys riding around in the woods, which is awesome for my future of wheeling. :)

On this day we put on almost 100 miles exploring the northwoods of WI. Nothing hard core, just a good pack a picnic and go kind of day. It was a nice escape from the reality of Corona quarantine.

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That pretty much brings it to current.

Future plans, bend up an interior cage and fix the rusty floor. Also, swap in an FJ80 box to take care of the steering clearance issues.

Future future plans, 1.6 swap.

I'll add to this post as I go on!

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Nice build. Nice thread for one of the first.
 
Nice build. Nice thread for one of the first.

Thanks Guy! I've been a lurker on the old board for many years but not being able to post pictures was a killer. That and I would say that most of the time my shit belongs in the "ghetto fab/hack job" thread so I never felt like doing a thread.

I've got a Toyota 3K carb coming from Certified Machine. The stock carb is starting to act up and from what I've read, it's a crap shoot to get the stock ones to work worth a damn. I hate to spend any money on this 1.3 as the end goal is an injected 1.6, but the carb and adapter was only $230 shipped and it seems like this is the way to go while keeping in a budget. Ill try and document the install and review how it runs.
 
Honestly, the main issue with the stock carbs is that the stock ecm poops out and causes the carbs to run like crab. If you're not going to use the stock carb or ecm, let me know if you'd get rid of it.
 
Honestly, the main issue with the stock carbs is that the stock ecm poops out and causes the carbs to run like crab. If you're not going to use the stock carb or ecm, let me know if you'd get rid of it.

If you need a ECM let me know, I'm sure I've got one laying around I can send ya.
 
Not really in need per say. But always collecting parts. I'm sure they will get hard to come across some day. I'll pay shipping on whatever you'll send though
 
I'll let you know, but I'll likely keep all the carb related items. I still plan on picking up a rebuild kit and giving the stock carb a good cleaning. Up until this week, it ran flawlessly. More than likely it's just dirty.
 
The 3K carb from Certified Machine showed up today and I put it on after work.

Certified Machine takes a new carb and pulls it apart, working their magic and then tune the carb via road test before shipping.

I bought the install kit along with the carb, and it came to $230 shipped. Everything needed was included, along with some pretty clear instructions.

Installation was straight forward and first drive was awesome. I really feel no need to mess with any of the settings. I dont think there's any more top end but you can tell it pulls harder during acceleration. It's also very smooth, from idle through to WOT.

I'll probably vent the float bowl overflow into a catch can, just to help on extreme angles. I dont expect it to hold a candle to pane/injection but I should be able to make it work decent.

Verdict, this is a great cost effective swap for someone who is fighting issues with the stock carb, and wants something that they could almost bolt on and go.

I still need to get rid of the wiring associated with the stock carb, along with the computer.

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Been driving the hell out of this thing this summer.

Ended up breaking the driver side Longfield shaft while wheeling yesterday. It was completely my fault, tires catch the springs at full lock in reverse and I wasnt being careful, and bang she went.

Sadly I won't have time this week to tear her down as I am finally tinning the ceiling in my shop. It will probably get RCVs and IFS hubs to hopefully get the tires away from the springs.

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Checked out a newly open to road legal 4x4 spot in WI last weekend. It was a lot of fun and has potential for sure!

I do a good amount of wheeling in WI (AVF is awesome), any details on the new spot that opened up?
 
I do a good amount of wheeling in WI (AVF is awesome), any details on the new spot that opened up?

It's a small spot but is fun to spend a day at.

Right now it's geared more towards your new wheeler in a brand new Jeep. We went out there about a month ago with my group of buddys and the park immediately changed their rules after the weekend. We had an Escalade on 40s, Scout and a squarebody on 39.5s, Land Cruiser on 37s, etc. The old tire rule was 40" but they accused our group of tearing things up (which we actually did not - the stockers out there were the ones spinning tires trying to make it through stuff) and brought the limit back to 37".

All in all, it's fun and within an hour drive of my house, but I wouldnt go out of your way to go there.

Oh, and everything has to be road legal, licensed and insured.
 
Haven't had a chance to tear into the front axle yet, finally getting the ceiling up in my shop. What a pain in the ass this is. Im definitely not cut out for construction work lol.

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It's a small spot but is fun to spend a day at.

Right now it's geared more towards your new wheeler in a brand new Jeep. We went out there about a month ago with my group of buddys and the park immediately changed their rules after the weekend. We had an Escalade on 40s, Scout and a squarebody on 39.5s, Land Cruiser on 37s, etc. The old tire rule was 40" but they accused our group of tearing things up (which we actually did not - the stockers out there were the ones spinning tires trying to make it through stuff) and brought the limit back to 37".

All in all, it's fun and within an hour drive of my house, but I wouldnt go out of your way to go there.

Oh, and everything has to be road legal, licensed and insured.

Funny how some think big tires tear stuff up, when they will usually just roll over the obstacles easier. Obviously if the driver wants to, big tires can tear stuff up.


Having a tire limit size is the dumbest shit ever, I wouldn't go there just because of that. Our wheelin group is very mixed. It would be dumb if one or two guys couldn't go because they had 38s when a guy on 37s can :rolleyes:
 
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